VT Acclaim V6

[kart_racer]

Hi, I know it's not an 8, but I thought I'd post up pics of my VT V6, as I know as a V6 owner I like to see what mods other V6 owners have done to their cars.

Model: Holden Commodore VT Acclaim 1998
Colour: Heron White
Mods: 15" Speedy Holotype R Alloys (already on the car when purchased), colour coded bumpers and side protective strips, 700W RMS sound system, 2-hole mod, FE2 suspension
Future mods: 17" wheels, manual conversion

The FE2 was added just last weekend. It hasn't lowered the car much, but it has made the front and rear sit a lot more even. The car feels a lot firmer, but rides better at higher speeds and rolls a lot better around faster corners. My motivation for the mod was that the old suspension was very worn and FE2 was cheap to come by.

I'm not sure about putting bigger wheels on, I think the Speedy's look good and hide the fact they are only 15". If I do decide to go bigger I will probably look at 17" and a silver colour. The chrome wheels in my price range look horrible. I do like the HP Design wheels though.

I am seriously looking at a manual conversion as they seem to be popping up on ebay now, and for very low prices. If I do follow it through I will post up a worklog so other V6 owners can benefit.

Oh, and now for some pics. They aren't great quality as they were taken with my 2MP Nokia 6110, apart from the Bathurst one.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/carfront.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/carrear.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/carside.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/vtbathurst.jpg


The last pic was taken on the Peter Brock Memorial Cruise at Mt Panorama last year, but I'm not sure who by.

[ACUZED]

lookin good mate those rims dont look like 15's which is good nice clean colour white is good luck with it

[kart_racer]

This is a summary of the conversion from a 4L60E auto transmission to the Getrag 260 manual transmission on my VT Acclaim. The conversion took Dad and I two days including late hours (10pm & 12pm) with an extra couple of hours cleaning up tools and refitting trims and the PCM bracket the next morning.
I purchased the conversion almost complete on eBay from a guy who was doing an auto conversion. The only things I needed to get were the spigot bearing, a set of flywheel bolts (both of these purchased from Holden during those two days) and gear oil.
Items required:
Getrag 260 Transmission
Dual Mass Flywheel, Clutch plate, Pressure plate & Thrust bearing
Manual tailshaft
Cross member
Hydraulic master cylinder, slave cylinder & reservoir
Clutch pedal
Brake pedal (not used)
Manual PCM (only used memcal from this)
Manual engine wiring loom
Starter loom (not used)
Shifter support bracket , shifter plate & shifter
Gear knob & boot
Spigot bearing
Bolts
Gear oil
Clutch aligning tool

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1901.jpg

The first step was to put the car on ramps. Since we no longer had the usual workshop ramps, we improvised with a conveniently nearby set of machinery loading ramps and hefty blocks of timber. The rear wheels were chocked with timber and multiple bricks.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1906.jpg

The first step was to remove the tailshaft. This is fairly self explanatory so I won’t go into too much detail, but basically the bolts/nuts securing it to the transmission and diff need to be removed. One thing to make this easier is to loosen the two reachable bolts on the diff before putting the car on ramps (so when the car moves the tailshaft turns making the other two accessible), as it’s virtually impossible to get them all at once.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1918.jpg

The next step was to remove all the gearshift linkages and electrical plugs from the auto transmission. Also the dipstick and rubber support for the exhaust needed to be removed.
The auto shifter was then removed. This is achieved by removing the four nuts from underneath the body, and removing all the trim and surrounds. It is very difficult to remove the shifter assembly without removing the centre console.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1910.jpg http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1909.jpg http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1911.jpg

The manual gear shifter was then installed. This is done by installing the shifter plate from underneath and securing with nuts. The surrounds and trim can then be reinstalled and the gear boot simply clips into the surround and the knob pushes on top.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1977.jpg

Then, due to the lack of a transmission jack, the transmission was supported with boards across the handy machinery ramps. (Edit: IMPORTANT! Also a block should be placed between the engine and the crossmember below it to stop the engine lowering and breaking the pipe below it). Following this, the cross member bolts were removed as well as the bolts around the bellhousing. It was also apparent that dowel pins were used in two places on the bellhousing rather than bolts. This step was quite difficult due to the placement of the top bolts and lack of room around them to get a socket on and turn the ratchet!
It is also best to remove the oxygen sensors from the exhaust as these could get in the way or get broken and they’re easy to remove.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1922.jpg http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1927.jpg

The converter plate was then removed and the transmission slid back from the engine. This step would be much easier with the aid of a transmission jack and vehicle hoist. The torque converter was unbolted from the flexplate and the flexplate removed from the crank.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1945.jpg

The transmission was then put aside never to see the VT again.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1943.jpg

The next step was to install the clutch pedal. Here is a hugely helpful piece of advice. DO NOT attempt to change the brake pedal. CUT IT. The brake pedal is ridiculously difficult to remove, and it appeared that the steering column probably had to be removed to get it out!
All that needs to be done is to cut the pedal to the correct size and shape, and remove two bolts on the brake pedal bracket, as well as the rubber grommet filling the hole where the clutch pedal and master cylinder bolt to the firewall. Once this has been done, the clutch pedal will fit into place, and the bolts from the brake pedal bracket can be put back in.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1954.jpg http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1942.jpg http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1955.jpg

The master cylinder can then be mounted onto the clutch pedal studs in the engine bay. The rod end then fits onto the clutch pedal pin and is secured by spacers and a clip.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1951.jpg

The reservoir bolts on where the brake fluid reservoir is.

The auto wiring loom must then be removed and the manual loom installed. This is quite a difficult job and requires a lot of patience. The knock sensors must be removed from underneath and this is much easier to achieve while the transmission is out.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1952.jpg

It is also useful to remove the pulley above the air conditioner compressor as the wiring loom must be installed behind it.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1962.jpg

The next step was to clean up the flywheel and pressure plate with emery as they had a few high spots. The clutch in this case has a bit of wear, and will need to be replaced eventually.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1935.jpg

The flywheel was then bolted to the crank.

The spigot bearing was left in heated gear oil for around half an hour. Another method would be to allow the bearing to sit in oil for a day or so. This is to allow the brass pores to fill with oil which will lubricate the bearing for its life.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1957.jpg

The bearing was tapped into the end of the crank with a mallet and a socket.
Dad made up a nifty little tool for aligning the clutch. These are able to be bought, but it might be difficult to find one that fits this particular clutch.
The tool is placed in the spigot bearing and the clutch and pressure plate pushed onto it. The pressure plate can then be tightened to the flywheel and the tool removed to leave an aligned clutch. The tool worked perfectly.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/24062008.jpg http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1967.jpg

With the clutch bolted up, the next step was to install the manual gearbox. Firstly the oil level was checked and found to be low. This is probably because the previous owner partly drained it during removal. The original oil looked brand new so this was a promising sign of the gearbox condition. The oil was topped up with Penrite 75W90 gear oil. Some gearboxes require to be filled after they are mounted, but in this case the rear end is sealed so no oil could drain out.
The gearbox was then installed.
Again this would have been made much more simple with a transmission jack. Instead we supported the gearbox on boards and slid the spigot into the clutch and crank. This required a bit of wiggling to get it in, but it went in first go. The cover plate for the lower section of the bellhousing was mounted and bellhousing bolts inserted.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1969.jpg

The crossmember bolts were installed and tightened, and the bellhousing bolts tightened. The top ones were relatively easy to get at with the aid of 2 feet worth of extensions and a ratchet.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1972.jpg

Following this, the reverse light switch and speed sensor plugs were connected. Then the clutch slave cylinder had to be installed. This is quite simple, it just slides over the studs and nuts secure it. A bracket for the hydraulic line needs to be installed on the body.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1971.jpg http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1970.jpg

It was then time for the manual shifter linkages to be installed. The support bracket is secured to the shifter by two nuts, and is bolted to the body behind the shifter. It also has a support to the top of the gearbox.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1973.jpg http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1975.jpg

Then the shifter linkage was installed. This was quite simple and involved sliding the pins on the linkage through the shifter bush and gearbox selector bush, and a clip in place on each pin.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1976.jpg

The longer manual tailshaft was then installed. This is quite simple and is virtually the reverse of the removal.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1978.jpg

Here you can see the difference in length of the tailshafts. This is due to the much shorter length of the manual transmission to the auto.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/DSCF1939.jpg

The PCM was then installed. We firstly tried the supplied manual PCM but the car would not start. We assume this is because of the VATS system not matching codes between the key, BCM and PCM. So we moved the manual memcal to my auto PCM. The car started and ran normally. The traction control turns off on start, but I think this may be because of the system not finding the switch, I have to research further.
There also may be a slight vibration at idle. This will be checked out soon, but it’s not strong.
Taking it for a drive, everything seemed to be in order, the shifts were smooth and the engine ran well. The clutch is a bit different to what I’m used to, it feels very light and it is also hard to feel the friction point, which appears to be very high on the clutch travel. Since the system is hydraulic, this can’t be adjusted.
The car is now deceptive in that it accelerates much quicker, due to the higher revs and lack of wasted torque, it reaches the speed limit much quicker than before.

All in all the conversion is worth it, the car is much more enjoyable to drive, and the knowledge that a V6 manual is rare in this form is good as well.
BUT I would have never attempted this work if the conversion didn’t come up cheap ($1300 inc. postage), and would never have attempted it without a knowledgeable, technically minded father! I learnt so much about how the transmissions work and where things bolt in. Very happy I did the conversion.

[The-V8-Power]

Good price you got it for.
How does it feel to be driving the manual instead of the auto now?

[kart_racer]

Good price you got it for.
How does it feel to be driving the manual instead of the auto now?

Awesome, it has totally changed the car. I can't wait to drive somewhere now because it's fun! I need less throttle to get the car up to speed and keep it there now, so it's less fatiguing in a way.
I just like looking in the window and seeing a clutch pedal and a gearstick.

It'll be a long time before I own an auto again :rofl:

[michaels1v8]

Awesome write up mate.

Nothing like a manual. Just makes driving more interactive and enjoyable:)

Im the same as you... Long time before I ever own an auto:1peek:

Your car looks good too bro.

Is that new rims too? They look a bit more shiny in the install photos.

[Big_Valven]

Damn, you're making me want a manual now! 1st gear is so flamin' tall on these slushboxes, and I just remember my brother's VSIII ecotec ute with a getrag. Man was that fun. I'm making sure my next car is a cog-swapper :)

[kart_racer]

Awesome write up mate.

Nothing like a manual. Just makes driving more interactive and enjoyable:)

Im the same as you... Long time before I ever own an auto:1peek:

Your car looks good too bro.

Is that new rims too? They look a bit more shiny in the install photos.

Yeah got them a couple of months ago, they are 19" RJR Tremor in chrome. They are pretty dirty in that pic. I will get some good pics and post them up some time.

[VT_Lance]

ive got the same auto car in silver on some 17" later 19 VY/VX GTS rims or some 20"

got full VX gts kit replacing front bar with SSX front bar (brother broke front bar)

got a 2 grand sound system soon to be $2500 currently got 2 320 watt 6" in front 2 6x9's 320 watt with 2 subs putting out 1500 watts ea with 550 rms ea being under powered by a 1500 watt 800 rms amp can hear the bass about 2/3 k's away if i feel like a d!ckhead and turn it up lol but will be putting in some new 420 watt splits in front moving front to rear buying 2 new amp to power subs(i love bass and music) then just doing minor things to getting little more power till i buy a new car

and thats it nothing great about the car besides the sound system (and the guy i bought it off missed the 200,000 service and ive being paying the price grr)

[kart_racer]

I just thought I'd do a bit of an update of where the car is now in case anyone is interested.

A few pics:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/15092008003.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/15092008004.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/15092008005.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/15092008011.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/kart_racer57/15092008014.jpg

I need to replace the strut top bushes & bearings as the struts are moving around in the tower. I'm most likely going to take this opportunity to get some superlow king springs as the car sits very uneven, much higher on the passenger side.

We put in a Mal Wood solid billet flywheel and hd clutch in last weekend. I haven't driven the car much since but it seemed like there was less vibration and much smoother taking off from a stop than before.

There is still a miss at idle and lack of power at low revs that needs to be sorted. As well as camber kit, most likely radius rod bushes and sway bar link pins.

The car should be nice after all that :)

[Tecca]

Looks good mate! im looking at doing a 5 speed conversion myself! the 4 speed auto is getting tired so a perfect excuse to get it done :). How much did the whole install set you back? (excluding labour as i will be doing the job with the old man myself too :)). Looks good mate, keep up the good work.

[kart_racer]

Looks good mate! im looking at doing a 5 speed conversion myself! the 4 speed auto is getting tired so a perfect excuse to get it done :). How much did the whole install set you back? (excluding labour as i will be doing the job with the old man myself too :)). Looks good mate, keep up the good work.

Up til now, around $2500. If doing it again I would get the solid flywheel straight away. The conversion kit was $1300, solid flywheel & clutch $1000.

Car cracked a radiator hose today, must have been just before I got home as it was still full of water. A bit inconvenient since I was going to head back to uni to hand a late assignment in!

The car is really terrible over bumps at the moment, and the handling is all screwed up. Got new strut top bushes & bearings, radius rod bushes, a camber kit and sway bar link pins to go on it soon. Hopefully that will spruce up the driveability a bit...