oil leak

[gazza1]

any help vx ss has rear main seal leak has any one else had this problem and does the motor have to come out to fix it or can it be done while still in the car, not happy 80000km not hard km just had power steering rake replace because of leak and when i pick the car up am told it also has the rear main seal leak. any help:bawl:

[WH_IKID]

Mine had one when I bought it.

My engine didn't have to come out. But apparantly the engine sump is attached to the box??? Correct me if I am wrong. So you have to do a bit more work and gaskets than you think though.

Sorry if I was no help at all. :jester:

[WOMBIE]

My understanding is that you can drop the transmission/gearbox instead of the engine to replace the rear main seal.

Do yourself a favour and get a second opinion...a forum sponsor out your way perhaps.

[planetdavo]

Ummm, doing a SEARCH, it would appear to be a little bit common....
http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/search.php?searchid=3879624

Previous link has dropped out. Here's a new link...
http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=12008&highlight=rear+main+oil+leak

[gezz]

I thought mine line the same problem but mine turned out to be the sump get a second opinion it very decieving

[zorro]

Hey mate, mine did the same thing after I changed it (should have left it). There is a small trap for young players when putting it back on.

Basically this is what is involved (from what I remember);

take your gearbox off, remove clutch/flywheel OR flexplate (depending if you have an auto or manual. You will see a big plate with the end of the crank sitting in the middle this is where you will see the leak if it has one or maybe the leak could be from somewhere else.

undo ALL bolts securing the plat to the block & remove the plate and gasket *TAKE NOTE OF HOW IT SITS ON THE CRANK, THE SEAL HAS A SLEEVE ON IT THAT WILL ONLY SIT A CERTAIN WAY* (try not to damage). to get the gasket out I used a pick/flat blade screwdriver/hammer (apparently there is a special tool to do this) and be very very careful not to damage the plate. once the seal is out clean the plate where the gasket sits and also where the plate sits on the block, you may need to use a stanley knife to scrape stuff off, again be very careful when you do this.

To re-insert the new main seal I made a 'special' tool out of the old seal to get the new one in and carefully tapped it in with a rubber mallet. Now use some RTV Gasket sealant to the plate and gasket. NOW THIS IS THE TRAP!!!! When the new seal is put on over the crank it has a sleeve *as mentioned before* that you need to get on the right way without it folding on itself or else you will not get a seal and you will have to buy a new one and try again (this is what caught me out the first go, it folded about 2mm and didnt seal). Use a small pick very gently to help you out, it also is good to have a second person helping you.

Now assuming you got it on ok make sure the plate is sitting right and using a drop of loctite on the bolts tighten (I dont know the torque settings or order of tightening) the plate and put everything back together.

If it all seems to daunting it may pay to get a shop to do it for you, it does take time and can be tricky and you learn from mistakes. Good luck

[gazza1]

thanks for you help the car goes in for the rear main seal tommorow.had all sorts of quotes and ideas on what to do .some wanting to remove the motor,and prices from $460 to $1000 .had atalk with the guy for $460 and he has done them before and seemed very genuine in what he had to say about only needing to remove the gear box so will let you know how it goes in the next day or two,again thanks for you info as i would have paid a lot more too have the motor removed.

[DND]

Hey mate, mine did the same thing after I changed it (should have left it). There is a small trap for young players when putting it back on.

Basically this is what is involved (from what I remember);

take your gearbox off, remove clutch/flywheel OR flexplate (depending if you have an auto or manual. You will see a big plate with the end of the crank sitting in the middle this is where you will see the leak if it has one or maybe the leak could be from somewhere else.

undo ALL bolts securing the plat to the block & remove the plate and gasket *TAKE NOTE OF HOW IT SITS ON THE CRANK, THE SEAL HAS A SLEEVE ON IT THAT WILL ONLY SIT A CERTAIN WAY* (try not to damage). to get the gasket out I used a pick/flat blade screwdriver/hammer (apparently there is a special tool to do this) and be very very careful not to damage the plate. once the seal is out clean the plate where the gasket sits and also where the plate sits on the block, you may need to use a stanley knife to scrape stuff off, again be very careful when you do this.

To re-insert the new main seal I made a 'special' tool out of the old seal to get the new one in and carefully tapped it in with a rubber mallet. Now use some RTV Gasket sealant to the plate and gasket. NOW THIS IS THE TRAP!!!! When the new seal is put on over the crank it has a sleeve *as mentioned before* that you need to get on the right way without it folding on itself or else you will not get a seal and you will have to buy a new one and try again (this is what caught me out the first go, it folded about 2mm and didnt seal). Use a small pick very gently to help you out, it also is good to have a second person helping you.

Now assuming you got it on ok make sure the plate is sitting right and using a drop of loctite on the bolts tighten (I dont know the torque settings or order of tightening) the plate and put everything back together.

If it all seems to daunting it may pay to get a shop to do it for you, it does take time and can be tricky and you learn from mistakes. Good luck


Is this the same on a V6 ?
I'm thinking of doing my one How long did it take you to do, and what did you put the car on

Oh did you have to drop the exhaust