Who's got a Cammed VE?

[Brandonsdad]

Im looking at Camming my VE and was wanting to know from those that have done it, what ones have you used. My car is a daily driver, never take it to the track, has a 2.5in cat back system and am getting a tune and maybe OTR after the cam goes in. I dont want to attract too much attention, but still want to hear it at idle and feel it behind the wheel. I want to keep the stock stall and just want to change the cam and springs only. Anyone out there with some useful info would be appreciated. I have been told to go with Comp cams by a couple of people in the know. It would be ideal if anyone in Adelaide had one already, would let me hear it. I dont know a real lot about them but have been recommonded about a 219 custom one made to sound a bit lumpier at idle or even a 220ish.

Thanks Adrian.

[fastestls7]

speak to oztrack abt his 220/220

[Brandonsdad]

speak to oztrack abt his 220/220

okie dokie.

Thanks.

[BTA-MOTORSPORTS]

We have done a few cams now on Ve's and they respond to them very well and sound great.

We use comp cams and we just fitted our custom grind cam in one of our customers VE GTS and tunned it and sounds sweet at idle and is great to drive.

If you need any help about cams let us know or steve from oztrack and we can assit you in the right direction.

[jaykay]

We have done a few cams now on Ve's and they respond to them very well and sound great.

We use comp cams and we just fitted our custom grind cam in one of our customers VE GTS and tunned it and sounds sweet at idle and is great to drive.

If you need any help about cams let us know or steve from oztrack and we can assit you in the right direction.
What exhaust system is the GTS running ?

[stig]

Can't wait to see how these LS3's respond to a Cam..

[Brandonsdad]

Can't wait to see how these LS3's respond to a Cam..

Damn you.....cant wait to see how mine responds to a cam.:)

Thanks for the replies so far guys.

[VCMSWT]

I would have to say that the VE is arguably the most modified model at the moment. We're seeing at least 5 cars a week come in for exhaust, etc etc, and have fitted more than cams than I can recollect.

Cam preference is VCM performance - for obvious reasons - however I am sure any cam brand would do a great job. Highly recommended mod.

[blackbettyhsv]

has anyone got a sound file of the 220- 220 cam in a VE

[EXCESSV]

SSV manual with SQP custom grind Comp Cam 224/228 @ 112 LSA
car spends most of the time as a daily driver with near on 30,000km a year and some strip & track time
running OTR, Mafless and a full exhaust system with a dual 3" front and dual 2.5" rear section

[BLACKVE]

Hi VESS60 I'm in adelaide:)

Had cam fitted a month ago package was from GM Motorsport(not TK cam) fantastic result 325rwkws. Car is a daily driver i'm rapt:)

Lots of people are fitting comp cams and getting 300kw where GM Motorsports packages are getting better results!!!!!!

Read thread "VE gets a Cam"

Just went to a 3" twin exhaust and car is now better at idle(it's not realy lumpy to attract attention) 325kw was with short headers standard cats and twin 2 1/2" D@T system. Also fitted a russo otrca

I'm in western suburbs happy to take you for a spin send us a PM if interested

Cheers Paul

[SS Enforcer]

has anyone got a sound file of the 220 - 220 cam in a VE

Oztrack may have one of mine somewhere when it had the 220 220 in it. It sounded fairly mild but made 297 rwkw and drove perfectly. We even flashed the stock tune into it and drove it with out issue and it idled at 550 rpm .:confused:

cheers

[Brandonsdad]

Another cam question.

What is the difference between an off the shelf cam and a custom cam.
Would it be noticeable after a tune.
Is it just a matter of particular cam retailers pushing their custom grinds to steer people away from the likes of Supercheap, eBay, and other off the shelf places.
Does anyone have an off the shelf comp cam in their VE too?
Thanks all.

[RED R8]

Another cam question.

What is the difference between an off the shelf cam and a custom cam.
Would it be noticeable after a tune.
Is it just a matter of particular cam retailers pushing their custom grinds to steer people away from the likes of Supercheap, eBay, and other off the shelf places.
Does anyone have an off the shelf comp cam in their VE too?
Thanks all.
A custom Cam is usually one that a workshop has had specifically ground to their spec requirements. I have now been in many different cammed VE's etc and find it hard to pick much difference between any of them power wise. The most difference I have found seems to be Idle chop etc. I have gone for a bigger (much) bigger cam in my VE over my VY and find its as easy if not easier to drive (stock clutch helps) but prefer the bigger bader idle with this cam, fuel economy is about the same so pick one and don't stress too much there isn't a massive seat of the pants difference between them just make sure the Tune is spot on...

[jaykay]

Does anyone have an off the shelf comp cam in their VE too?
Thanks all.
I have a Comp Cam "Off The Shelf" 224/228 112lsa in my VE. Also upgraded valve springs, timing chain and 25% underdrive pulley.

From stock (with pod CAI only) to addition of Pacemaker 4 into 1 - 1 & 3/4 headers, hi flow cats and KPM 3" catback and maf tune made 46rwkw.

Add cam install and maf tune made an additional 56rwkw, so 102rwkw with exhaust, cam and tune.

Car is a daily driver and has very stock manners......and love the idle...:bow:

[GODSMACK]

My VE has cams, came with the car...:1peek:

[CSP]

My VE has cams

Why does it have more than one? :p

:stick:

[EXCESSV]

custom grind is one that a workshop has used an off the shelf and had it custom done by the cam manufacturer to suit there testing and needs

mine is a custom comp cams that no one but SQP & Chipmaster have it made for them.
the custom part of that cam even tho from the cam spec card looks like a normal off the shelf is things like ramp rate, etc

alot of testing it done and although the SOTP meter shows nothing between same cam off the shelf to same cam custom grind doesnt mean there isnt a difference...otherwise workshops wouldnt waste time and money on R&D creating such "custom grinds"


The most difference I have found seems to be Idle chop etc.apart from obviously the specs of the cam the "idle chop" is affected by the tune.
same cam different tuners = different idle chop

[macca33]

VESS60 - there is a bit of a science to selecting/designing cams, as lobe separation, lobe lift and resultant valve events are important. The Comp catalogue contains many different cams that are reliable and proven to work, however, Sonny, Oztrack, SQP, Chipmaster and others have had good results from non-catalogue cams that they have chosen which may have a slight difference in specification here and there and are proven to perform well. One example would be the Comp XFI series of lobes - they aren't listed in their stock catalogue, but are available and the extra lift they provide is very good for improving cylinder fill and exhaust efficiency.

So, in short, any of the Comp off-the-shelf cams will do the job, but a custom cam may improve on that a little more.

Cheers,

Macca

[Brandonsdad]

All good replies, keep em cumming.
So it sounds like these custom ones are just a bit of a refined off the shelf cam.
I am leaning towards an off the shelf comp cam, but want to know what else to get. Was told that springs are needed, single are ok apparently and what about pushrods. Dont want to do the whole bloody engine just cam and a couple of other things whilst they are in there.

Cam
Springs
Pushrods???
Anything else. Take it easy though. Never go to the track and my wife reckons shes learning to drive in it.
Its an auto too. (of course, how would wife be able to drive it otherwise)

[EXCESSV]

Cam
Springs
Pushrods???
Anything else. Take it easy though. Never go to the track and my wife reckons shes learning to drive in it.
Its an auto too. (of course, how would wife be able to drive it otherwise)pushrods i was told a NO...waste of money and not required

list at minimum is:
cam
springs
tune

extras u can do are UDP, DR timing chain, low temp thermostat, etc

[Brandonsdad]

pushrods i was told a NO...waste of money and not required

list at minimum is:
cam
springs
tune

extras u can do are UDP, DR timing chain, low temp thermostat, etc

Been looking them up at Atlantic speed and Comp Cams, and they have a Gen111 LS1 LS2 LS6 listed and no Gen IV. Am I missing sumfin here.:1peek
I was also told to go with some other springs and not comp.
Thanks Dean

[EXCESSV]

Been looking them up at Atlantic speed and Comp Cams, and they have a Gen111 LS1 LS2 LS6 listed and no Gen IV. Am I missing sumfin here.:1peek
I was also told to go with some other springs and not comp.
Thanks Deannot sure if ur missing something...i gave my car to Delco (Chipmaster)...took the plane to melbourne to have over a week of drinking and fun times with mates then got home to a cammed 410+rwhp beast on a conservative dyno :D

springs i used are Pac springs...but its up to u or the workshop that will b doing the work

if u go UDP u will probably have same issues as most with the AC/UDP belt coming off under some punishment.
if u do Delco has got a fix for it that has worked on many cars on the forum here with the same problem both cam only and blown cars

[BlownLS7]

Been looking them up at Atlantic speed and Comp Cams, and they have a Gen111 LS1 LS2 LS6 listed and no Gen IV. Am I missing sumfin here.:1peek
I was also told to go with some other springs and not comp.
Thanks Dean

hi mate,
if you must buy from the states (there are plenty good shops in OZ)
just PM Speed INC,they will hook you up.

as for mine i have 224/228 @114 .581 (off the shelf ) and bought in OZ at Performance Wholesale (and rec by SQP)
Patriot Gold Dual Springs.
New Rods (a must for Forced Induction)
Yellow Terra Alloy rockers 1.7
you will need a 3 Bolt cam gear as VE has single bolt

my car makes 550 RWHP ,(cuz i gotta a blower)

cam is nice on Idle (tuned by OZTRACK)

although sounds great and has a nice lump

if your not planning to do it at home,im sure the shop that fits it will be in best position to give you advise,thats why the sponsers are here:rofl:


good luck in your decision

[BLACKVE]

pushrods i was told a NO...waste of money and not required

list at minimum is:
cam
springs
tune

extras u can do are UDP, DR timing chain, low temp thermostat, etc

Advice we all get is different!!!!!!!!!!!!:bawl:

Guy who installed my cam thinks pushrods are advisable as stock are soft/bend easily, also stated that DR timing chain is a absolute waste of money!!!!! And before you ask he's built several tough Ls 1 motors etc(even some V8 ute motors). Never heard of a LS 1 doing a chain have heard of bent pushrods though. Never built a motor myself stick to the welding.

It's good we all get to chat here because one shop is different to another:bow:

VESS06 good luck on your search!!!!

[RED R8]

My cam installer did my cam ,good springs,retainers (I think thats what they were) said DR Timing chain and UDP were a waste of $$$..411rwhp on a conservative dyno is fine with me..

[SS Enforcer]

Get the push rods as they are stronger and 7.400's are a tad longer than the stock rods. Your pushing a big inlet valve at high revs and lift so it's advisable. The Patriot golds are a very good spring as well .The comp cam you select wil have a smaller base circle than the stock cam hence the longer push rods needed.

You really should speak to the shop thats going to do the installation and tuning before you order anything.

I am sure either Mr Tuna or Brad at Enhanced can get you well sorted.

cheers

[EXCESSV]

Advice we all get is different!!!!!!!!!!!!:bawl:

Guy who installed my cam thinks pushrods are advisable as stock are soft/bend easily, also stated that DR timing chain is a absolute waste of money!!!!! And before you ask he's built several tough Ls 1 motors etc(even some V8 ute motors). Never heard of a LS 1 doing a chain have heard of bent pushrods though. Never built a motor myself stick to the welding.

It's good we all get to chat here because one shop is different to another:bow:yep very true....everyone has there personal preferences and advice

find good workshop to look after u and ur pride and joy and listen to what there advice is

[VYSHSV8]

Ok the reason why a DR chain is needed though not essential is
1. you have a cam with a larger lift ok this creates more pressure on the valve springs( more valve train load)
2. valve springs you have heavier duty ones that can handle more lift nfor a larger cam ie seat pressure( valve train load)


3..thgis equates to engine rotates turning cam via chain which pushes pushrod and opens valve which will generally mean shit load more pressure on the Timing Chain which will cause it to stretch ie having a double row takes some of this elimination away NO MORE STRETCHING of the Chain,

If the chain stretches it will change the dial in of your cam and can end up with a bang if you run a High Lift High ramp rate cam as you are chasing the piston up and down with the valves...

[ATTNSEEKR]

Ok the reason why a DR chain is needed though not essential is
1. you have a cam with a larger lift ok this creates more pressure on the valve springs( more valve train load)
2. valve springs you have heavier duty ones that can handle more lift nfor a larger cam ie seat pressure( valve train load)


3..thgis equates to engine rotates turning cam via chain which pushes pushrod and opens valve which will generally mean shit load more pressure on the Timing Chain which will cause it to stretch ie having a double row takes some of this elimination away NO MORE STRETCHING of the Chain,

If the chain stretches it will change the dial in of your cam and can end up with a bang if you run a High Lift High ramp rate cam as you are chasing the piston up and down with the valves...


yep, double row chain is cheap insurance really, be stupid not to put one in, especially if your gonna rev it hard.

[SS Enforcer]

The chains in the gen iv series of motors are better than the old ls1 single chains. It's a thicker and stronger chain the same as they use in the LS7 which has a high lift cam in it stock. Maybe in a couple of years I would replace the chain with another stock unit if the std one shows any wear or if the motor has to come out for any reason but it really should last for a long time as it is.
I havn't heard of any LS motors breaking due to timing chain stretch however I will keep an eye out for that .

cheers

[lethal66]

YouTube - Russo HSV GTS Cam-Only (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5Ct7Zs27mQ&feature=related)


Have a listen to this thing

[BLACKVE]

The chains in the gen iv series of motors are better than the old ls1 single chains. It's a thicker and stronger chain the same as they use in the LS7 which has a high lift cam in it stock. Maybe in a couple of years I would replace the chain with another stock unit if the std one shows any wear or if the motor has to come out for any reason but it really should last for a long time as it is.
I havn't heard of any LS motors breaking due to timing chain stretch however I will keep an eye out for that .

cheers

Think some people are still remembering HOLDEN V8 timing chain failures!!!!!!!


Get the push rods as they are stronger and 7.400's are a tad longer than the stock rods. Your pushing a big inlet valve at high revs and lift so it's advisable. The Patriot golds are a very good spring as well .The comp cam you select wil have a smaller base circle than the stock cam hence the longer push rods needed.

cheers

Thats also what i was told, didn't really understand it though(only a boilermaker lol) but makes sense now:bow:

[uteme]

Ok the reason why a DR chain is needed though not essential is
1. you have a cam with a larger lift ok this creates more pressure on the valve springs( more valve train load)
2. valve springs you have heavier duty ones that can handle more lift nfor a larger cam ie seat pressure( valve train load)


3..thgis equates to engine rotates turning cam via chain which pushes pushrod and opens valve which will generally mean shit load more pressure on the Timing Chain which will cause it to stretch ie having a double row takes some of this elimination away NO MORE STRETCHING of the Chain,

If the chain stretches it will change the dial in of your cam and can end up with a bang if you run a High Lift High ramp rate cam as you are chasing the piston up and down with the valves...



The standard chains are pre stretched

[HOWQUICK]

use of double rows when changing cams....waste of money?:confused:

lets look at what we have seen with Gen Motors.

Chain in late motor is a beauty- shame the sprockets are still wrong giving around 4 degrees of cam "play" even with brand new chain.

Std timing set doesn't allow for correction of valve timing when fitting an aftermarket cam. Why would anyone fit a more agressive cam to an engine and not degree it? The days of the dot to dot timing methods are well and truely gone but if this is the standard some work to......how can they say a multi indexed double is a waste of money when they can't even instal the stuff properly?:confused: Sometimes doing things right takes longer.....dot to dot cam installs aren't doing it right.

Pushrods? I have not seen any power increase or a better valve train stability on a 26918 style spring with the addition of a heavier wall pushrod and I have back to backed it on the dyno. I would think the guy is better spending his money using parts that allow the cam to be degreed accurately and installed correctly than on parts that are easy to fit. Base circle isn't an issue if you look into the lifter pre load situation thoroughly............

Underdrives? Some want to bag what they don't understand....do some research on the water pump speed and flow and come back and tell us they are a waste of money......:)

Each to their own and some should stick to what they KNOW rather than offering advice based on poor understanding.:spew:

[RED R8]

use of double rows when changing cams....waste of money?:confused:

lets look at what we have seen with Gen Motors.

Chain in late motor is a beauty- shame the sprockets are still wrong giving around 4 degrees of cam "play" even with brand new chain.

Std timing set doesn't allow for correction of valve timing when fitting an aftermarket cam. Why would anyone fit a more agressive cam to an engine and not degree it? The days of the dot to dot timing methods are well and truely gone but if this is the standard some work to......how can they say a multi indexed double is a waste of money when they can't even instal the stuff properly?:confused: Sometimes doing things right takes longer.....dot to dot cam installs aren't doing it right.

Pushrods? I have not seen any power increase or a better valve train stability on a 26918 style spring with the addition of a heavier wall pushrod and I have back to backed it on the dyno. I would think the guy is better spending his money using parts that allow the cam to be degreed accurately and installed correctly than on parts that are easy to fit. Base circle isn't an issue if you look into the lifter pre load situation thoroughly............

Underdrives? Some want to bag what they don't understand....do some research on the water pump speed and flow and come back and tell us they are a waste of money......:)

Each to their own and some should stick to what they KNOW rather than offering advice based on poor understanding.:spew:

So John are UDP's beneficial for more power or improving water pump speed and flow or is that how they make more power by altering speed and flow ?

[HOWQUICK]

So John are UDP's beneficial for more power or improving water pump speed and flow or is that how they make more power by altering speed and flow ?

I have posted all Iam going to on the water pump speed thing.....my point is don't dismis what you don't understand.:) I will say this and there is more to pump speed than the parasitic loss from driving it.

[SS Enforcer]

If the cam is ground as per spec wouldn't installing it dot to dot be correct ?

Also given the cam timing triggers are on the front sprocket does installing it at anything other than dot to dot affect the timing as I would have thought that may be a problem with installing a gen 4 cam any other way.

If the motor was out of the car I would say go for it but I wouldn't want my motor pulled just to fit a chain. I would make that call on my car and take a punt and save the $$.

cheers

[HOWQUICK]

If the cam is ground as per spec wouldn't installing it dot to dot be correct ?

how would you know it is on spec and the crank key is on spec if you don't degree it? How would you correct it if it wasn't using the std "slop of matic" chain set?




Also given the cam timing triggers are on the front sprocket does installing it at anything other than dot to dot affect the timing as I would have thought that may be a problem with installing a gen 4 cam any other way.

look into what it is using the code on the front for....you have a lot of latitude there. Hint; why would you want to know the cam position in a 4 cycle engine considering you have so many "pips" on the crank giving you piston position??




If the motor was out of the car I would say go for it but I wouldn't want my motor pulled just to fit a chain. I would make that call on my car and take a punt and save the $$.
cheers

thats fair for you to make that dicision.... doesn't mean everyone doing it the right way is wasting money. With the larger/agressive cams we are using today, I would rather instal it accurately than take a stab and guess approach....thankfully there are plenty out there that want to do it right, not the cheapest.

[EXCESSV]

thankfully there are plenty out there that want to do it right, not the cheapest.one of many reasons my engine came out

with the experience and knowledge yourself and Delco have with high performance LS engines (i think u have built a engine or two in your time john :lmao:) i would be stupid to listen to anyone else's advice...:bow:

[RED R8]

I have posted all Iam going to on the water pump speed thing.....my point is don't dismis what you don't understand.:) I will say this and there is more to pump speed than the parasitic loss from driving it.

Thanks John..:) Belts falling off with UDP's on VE's for maybe 4hp did turn me off initially.


one of many reasons my engine came out

with the experience and knowledge yourself and Delco have with high performance LS engines (i think u have built a engine or two in your time john :lmao:) i would be stupid to listen to anyone else's advice...:bow:

Motor out is good unless afterwards you end up with a slight oil leak ...like I did..:rofl::)

[HOWQUICK]

Thanks John..:) Belts falling off with UDP's on VE's for maybe 4hp did turn me off initially.



Motor out is good unless afterwards you end up with a slight oil leak ...like I did..:rofl::)

I see a lot less leaks after pulling them out than the cracked covers, low oil pressure, and leaks from not pulling them out. What went wrong with yours?

[RED R8]

I see a lot less leaks after pulling them out than the cracked covers, low oil pressure, and leaks from not pulling them out. What went wrong with yours?

Not sure John I sold the car and the new owner's mechanic mate fixed it..

[SOBSE]

C'mon John, You know these day you just put that thing in there and that DOT goes there and then put it on a dyno and you have 600rwhp for 2 grand. Get with the times mate every one is doing it:dance:

Has that slack ass seen you yet! rumor is you have some dyno time goodies that azza is keen in.

[HOWQUICK]

Not sure John I sold the car and the new owner's mechanic mate fixed it..

did you take it back to Dan to have the leak looked at (oil filter, drain plug blah blah) or are you just content to snipe at him via the forums?:confused:


C'mon John, You know these day you just put that thing in there and that DOT goes there and then put it on a dyno and you have 600rwhp for 2 grand. Get with the times mate every one is doing it:dance:

Has that slack ass seen you yet! rumor is you have some dyno time goodies that azza is keen in.

no visit from slacko....but he would be away at the Winters.

Rumour is correct but he needs to jump on it otherwise they will be SOLD!:)

[SOBSE]

They just started the car 1/2 hr ago (at the winters). He is in his own little world sometim:)es

Pm me a $$ fig and i will make the call myself

[Brandonsdad]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5Ct7Zs27mQ&feature=related


Have a listen to this thing

Sounds unreal, but I think I would attract a bit of unwanted attention.

[RED R8]

did you take it back to Dan to have the leak looked at (oil filter, drain plug blah blah) or are you just content to snipe at him via the forums?:confused:



no visit from slacko....but he would be away at the Winters.

Rumour is correct but he needs to jump on it otherwise they will be SOLD!:)

Not having a go at anyone John I was very happy with all work Dan did just didn't have the 3-4 hours spare to get back for him to look at it, its not a big deal just something that can happen and could have been very minor ..

[Brandonsdad]

Get the push rods as they are stronger and 7.400's are a tad longer than the stock rods. Your pushing a big inlet valve at high revs and lift so it's advisable. The Patriot golds are a very good spring as well .The comp cam you select wil have a smaller base circle than the stock cam hence the longer push rods needed.

You really should speak to the shop thats going to do the installation and tuning before you order anything.

I am sure either Mr Tuna or Brad at Enhanced can get you well sorted.

cheers

Are the std pushrods 7.350? Is 7.450 too long or OK.
Thanks

[HOWQUICK]

Not having a go at anyone John I was very happy with all work Dan did just didn't have the 3-4 hours spare to get back for him to look at it, its not a big deal just something that can happen and could have been very minor ..

beats me why you would post it had a leak then.....one would assume there was something wrong for it to leak and for you to post means it was something that needed attention and bothered you but never got looked at becuase you didn't make the time to have it rectified....to post it here implies some sort of improprietry...........

bottom line it had a minor leak after cam work BUT the type of leak can't be known as it was never attended to.


Are the std pushrods 7.350? Is 7.450 too long or OK.
Thanks

7.325" actually. Length after cam change can only be known after lifter crush(preload) is determined and rocker geometry corrected/checked.

[ATTNSEEKR]

so motors out even leak, regardless of getting it checked or not, it leaked.

ill remeber this thread next time the arguement of motor in or out for cam change comes up :thumbsup:

[HOWQUICK]

so motors out even leak, regardless of getting it checked or not, it leaked.

ill remeber this thread next time the arguement of motor in or out for cam change comes up :thumbsup:

thanks for your input Adam. It is most enlightening.

Any idea on where it was leaking?:)

[RED R8]

beats me why you would post it had a leak then.....one would assume there was something wrong for it to leak and for you to post means it was something that needed attention and bothered you but never got looked at becuase you didn't make the time to have it rectified....to post it here implies some sort of improprietry...........

bottom line it had a minor leak after cam work BUT the type of leak can't be known as it was never attended to.



7.325" actually. Length after cam change can only be known after lifter crush(preload) is determined and rocker geometry corrected/checked.

Without blowing this up into something its not , My car after cam developed a small oil leak that left a couple of drips a night on my garage floor...It wasn't major it wasn't there before the motor came out I spoke to Said installer who was more than happy to take a look when I was free BUT I didn't have 3-4 hours free so I put up with it...nothing more than that.. I don't have the ability to make time when I am very busy in my store so no real big deal but one worth consideration when posters ask about cam installs..

[ATTNSEEKR]

thanks for your input Adam. It is most enlightening.

Any idea on where it was leaking?:)

no worries john, always happy to help out.

taking a wild guess but id say from the engine :thumbsup:

[HOWQUICK]

Without blowing this up into something its not , My car after cam developed a small oil leak that left a couple of drips a night on my garage floor...It wasn't major it wasn't there before the motor came out I spoke to Said installer who was more than happy to take a look when I was free BUT I didn't have 3-4 hours free so I put up with it...nothing more than that.. I don't have the ability to make time when I am very busy in my store so no real big deal but one worth consideration when posters ask about cam installs..

do us a favour and ring the guy who bought it and find out where the leak was from. It may have been as simple as an oil filter and therefore has no real relivence to the cam change procedure at all.


no worries john, always happy to help out.

taking a wild guess but id say from the engine :thumbsup:

exact level of technical understanding I would expect from you Poon.:rofl: So we get it right....the engine is the thing that goes vroom when you push the accelerator pedal?:confused:

[ATTNSEEKR]

exact level of technical understanding I would expect from you Poon.:rofl: So we get it right....the engine is the thing that goes vroom when you push the accelerator pedal?:confused:

:lol: its not rocket science John, google and mine doesnt go vroom, it go's vroom vroom Ppssccchhtttt

[Brandonsdad]

7.325" actually. Length after cam change can only be known after lifter crush(preload) is determined and rocker geometry corrected/checked.[/QUOTE]

So, if I was to buy some pushrods for the install I would know what length to get them. Would it be advisable to go 7.400, as someone mentioned earlier that you need longer than standard.

Thanks Adrian

[HOWQUICK]

:lol: its not rocket science John, google and mine doesnt go vroom, it go's vroom vroom Ppssccchhtttt

I took your concidered advice Adam and Googled under the criterior you discribed but all it came up with was this..........

http://wagewhore.20m.com/dickhead-test.html

:confused:


7.325" actually. Length after cam change can only be known after lifter crush(preload) is determined and rocker geometry corrected/checked.

So, if I was to buy some pushrods for the install I would know what length to get them. Would it be advisable to go 7.400, as someone mentioned earlier that you need longer than standard.

Thanks Adrian

depends on too many things to give a straight answer. I keep lengths from 7.300" to 7.550 in .050" increments and the engine gets which ever it needs once geometry is satisfied. But if you weren't going to bother degreeing the cam and were doing a dot to dot instal....7.400 would be as close as the rest of it.....

[macca33]

Adrian, the 7.40s may work, but they may not be 100%, thus you may not realise the full potential of the setup. To be sure, the valvetrain should be checked for proper geometry and pushrod lengths checked with proper lifter preload in mind also.

There is a bit to it and a good LSx mechanic will know how to do it.

Edit: - As properly explained in the previous post by one good LSx mechanic.

Cheers,

Macca

[Brandonsdad]

OK.

Off the Comp Cams site http://www.compcams.com/technical/Catalogs/106-07/12.pdfwebsite I have come up with:

Cam Part No: 54-414-11 216/220 114deg $354.88
Comp Valve springs Part No: 26915-16 $157.88
I think they suit, but will the titanium retainers be needed or not?
Comp Hi-Tech pushrods Part No: 7955-16 7.400 $116.88

total of $630 plus $100 shipping = $730 US which would be about $800 AUS.

Prices are from AtlanticSpeed.com

Do those prices seem good and will all parts work well together. In regards to fitting I presume it would be the dot to dot install.

Thanks folks.

[BLACKVE]

OK.

Off the Comp Cams site http://www.compcams.com/technical/Catalogs/106-07/12.pdfwebsite I have come up with:

Cam Part No: 54-414-11 216/220 114deg $354.88
Comp Valve springs Part No: 26915-16 $157.88
I think they suit, but will the titanium retainers be needed or not?
Comp Hi-Tech pushrods Part No: 7955-16 7.400 $116.88

total of $630 plus $100 shipping = $730 US which would be about $800 AUS.

Prices are from AtlanticSpeed.com

Do those prices seem good and will all parts work well together. In regards to fitting I presume it would be the dot to dot install.

Thanks folks.

Not really sure if parts are matched etc Adrian thats why i bought a GM Motorsport package all proven to work in a package with dyno results and someone who will support you with any problems Tuna was on phone to phonsey with some tips on tuning etc.

For a few $100 dollars it's piece of mind every time i start my car.

ps you'll new cam sprocket so it will suit L98 motor as well

Cheers Paul

[josh111]

I haven't had a chance to read all of this but i have a marranos smallish cam, u/d pulley, otr, tune, full 2.5 x force exhaust, dual valve springs and push rods. It made 331rwkw!! Need i say we are all very impressed with these results and was backed up with numerous runs on the dyno with the lowest being 327rwkw. The car gained power everywhere amd was a new car to drive. I drive into the city most days and have had no problems. Best money spent :)

[boyley]

For what its worth I'm installaing a new cam, springs and rods in the next couple of weeks. For an outline of the concerns I believe Howquicks referring to, this article is quite interesting.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=article&id=3

[Brandonsdad]

For what its worth I'm installaing a new cam, springs and rods in the next couple of weeks. For an outline of the concerns I believe Howquicks referring to, this article is quite interesting.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=article&id=3

Thats a good article. When I finally work out which way I go, I will be sure to find out how the installer intends on fitting it properly. No just whacking it in.

Good one boyley.:goodjob: