Cam Lumpyness Question

[LOCO]

Im about to order my custom comp cam
specs are:

Intake Lobe 222,566",XE
Exhaust Lobe 224,568",XE
Lobe Seperation 110 LSA
Intake Centerlobe 110 ICL


And i just wanna know how lumpy will it be?
It aint gonna be an everyday car so i wanna it to be lumpy assss.



Cheers, Serg

[GMMAD]

that will have a nice lump to it
go 108LSA if you want it to be real lumpy

[LOCO]

that will have a nice lump to it
go 108LSA if you want it to be real lumpy

Will there be a big differnece between 110 lsa to 108 lsa in lumpyness

[cbwolf]

Mate if it's not going into a daily, and you just want a weekend toy car that sounds super tough, why don't you go something larger?

A 222/224 is pretty tame even for a daily.

If you want something really lumpy, get something like a 232/234 or even a 238/242 110LSA cam.

[ova400]

hell for my SS i'm going 242 250 @ 108 :bow:

hopefully that will please me :smilesandbanana:

but dont forget it will also be affected by the tune

[JezzaB]

110lsa will be nice and lumpy and not too bad to drive.

[LOCO]

Mate if it's not going into a daily, and you just want a weekend toy car that sounds super tough, why don't you go something larger?

A 222/224 is pretty tame even for a daily.

If you want something really lumpy, get something like a 232/234 or even a 238/242 110LSA cam.

Reason im getting a 222/224 cause i dont wanna do any other mods 2 the car cause if i get a 232/234 dont i have to replace my Pac Racing 1218 springs to something stronger.

So would i have to change my Pac 1218 Racing Valve Springs
to something stronger to fit 232/234 110lsa?



Cheers, Serg

So would i have to change my Pac 1218 Racing Valve Springs
to something stronger to fit 232/234 110lsa?



Cheers, Serg


Mate if it's not going into a daily, and you just want a weekend toy car that sounds super tough, why don't you go something larger?

A 222/224 is pretty tame even for a daily.

If you want something really lumpy, get something like a 232/234 or even a 238/242 110LSA cam.

So would i have to change my Pac 1218 Racing Valve Springs
to something stronger to fit 232/234 110lsa?

[vlxcalais]

what other problems will you have if you go a lumpier cam besides springs.
eg really lump cam on stock motor

[BLACK 346]

what other problems will you have if you go a lumpier cam besides springs.
eg really lump cam on stock motor

A lot of people stare at you when your idling at the lights :jester:

[wagnman]

I have a 222/224 112LSA comp cam in my LS1 and it is not really very lumpy at all except for when it is cold or I am just rolling along very slowly in first or second.

It did however totally change the feel of the car hugley.:smilesandbanana:

If I wasnt driving the thing every day I would have gone for a cam with a bit more lift to make it lumpier but then again what use is all that lumpiness if it just makes your car SLOWER due to the narower power band?

[ADAM 26]

iv just got cam and heads done, i went 232/234 @ 112 lsa .600 lift

its lumpy as, car shakes at the lights, sounds tuff as, and made over 300rwkw. i love it!

not sure but i think the bigger heads and higher comp help it sound lumpyer!

[silvervyss]

Rather than start a new thread; i have a vy ss A4 (155000 kms) i want to cam and the car is driven daily. After doing some research, i am still confused about what cam spec i should get. I want a cam that is lumpy, but at the same time i dont want the added expense of intsalling a hi-stall.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated, and i will also be replacing valve springs and rods (if there is anything else recommened to do for reliability please feel free to tell me).

Cheers
John

[macca33]

John, a popular choice would be the Comp 220/220 .581/.581 cam, with either 112+2 or 114+2 lsa and it would comfortably operate without a stall converter.

However, it will not be overly lumpy. the 'lump' for the most part, is due to the valve overlap, ie, when both the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time, between the exhaust and intake stroke near piston top-dead-centre.

More overlap equals higher top-end performance and less equals better low-midrange - as a general rule. Also, more overlap equals more of the intake charge, ie unburnt air/fuel, being spat out the exhaust, before the exhaust valve closes for the continuation of the intake stroke of the piston.

Overlap is determined by adding the intake and exhaust duration of the cam together and dividing the result by two, then subtracting the lobe separation angle number that has been multiplied by two.

ie 222/224 @112lsa would have an overlap figure of -1 degrees, meaning, there is no overlap, whereas, a 230/232 @112lsa would have an overlap figure of 7 degrees and would be very lumpy, but not so efficient in the lower rev range. It, generally, would be a little doughy down low and would require at least 4000rpm to get on-song. It would also be almost un-drivable - in fact, slightly dangerous, with a stock stall speed.

As has been stated on many occasions, idle settings in the tune can be altered slightly to provide a little more, or less lump, but overall, the overlap of the cam is what determines it.

Finally, my advice would be to take a read of some of the cam threads and see what people are using as combinations, then get out to a sponsor shop, or a cruise and see what other cars sound and perform like, then make an informed decision.

I reckon a stall converter is always a good thing, after having driven a few cars with them fitted - very smooth and perfect manners for a daily driver.

For any cam swap, you'd want to do good valvesprings, ie PAC Racing, Patriot, etc and you'll need longer pushrods, to account for the fact that aftermarket cams have a smaller base circle than the stock cam does.

Cheers,

Macca

[GMMAD]

Rather than start a new thread; i have a vy ss A4 (155000 kms) i want to cam and the car is driven daily. After doing some research, i am still confused about what cam spec i should get. I want a cam that is lumpy, but at the same time i dont want the added expense of intsalling a hi-stall.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated, and i will also be replacing valve springs and rods (if there is anything else recommened to do for reliability please feel free to tell me).

Cheers
John
if you want a lumpy cam you will need a stally

[wojima]

I have a 232/232 110lsa comp in mine, if your guna have a cammed ls1 it has to sound like one! Extremely happy with mine, over 300rwkw and sounds tough as. I personally wouldnt have any bigger or any smaller but everyone is differant. Hope your happy with what you choose mate.

[LOCO]

If you want to put a lumpy cam in and dont wanna fit a hi-stall
just get comp cams to custom grind u one, get something small and drop the "LSA" to something like 108-110, cause the lower the "LSA" Which i think it mean Lobe Speration Angle, well the lower it is the lumper it will sound

[silvervyss]

John, a popular choice would be the Comp 220/220 .581/.581 cam, with either 112+2 or 114+2 lsa and it would comfortably operate without a stall converter.

However, it will not be overly lumpy. the 'lump' for the most part, is due to the valve overlap, ie, when both the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time, between the exhaust and intake stroke near piston top-dead-centre.

More overlap equals higher top-end performance and less equals better low-midrange - as a general rule. Also, more overlap equals more of the intake charge, ie unburnt air/fuel, being spat out the exhaust, before the exhaust valve closes for the continuation of the intake stroke of the piston.

Overlap is determined by adding the intake and exhaust duration of the cam together and dividing the result by two, then subtracting the lobe separation angle number that has been multiplied by two.

ie 222/224 @112lsa would have an overlap figure of -1 degrees, meaning, there is no overlap, whereas, a 230/232 @112lsa would have an overlap figure of 7 degrees and would be very lumpy, but not so efficient in the lower rev range. It, generally, would be a little doughy down low and would require at least 4000rpm to get on-song. It would also be almost un-drivable - in fact, slightly dangerous, with a stock stall speed.

As has been stated on many occasions, idle settings in the tune can be altered slightly to provide a little more, or less lump, but overall, the overlap of the cam is what determines it.

Finally, my advice would be to take a read of some of the cam threads and see what people are using as combinations, then get out to a sponsor shop, or a cruise and see what other cars sound and perform like, then make an informed decision.

I reckon a stall converter is always a good thing, after having driven a few cars with them fitted - very smooth and perfect manners for a daily driver.

For any cam swap, you'd want to do good valvesprings, ie PAC Racing, Patriot, etc and you'll need longer pushrods, to account for the fact that aftermarket cams have a smaller base circle than the stock cam does.

Cheers,

Macca


Thanks Macca for the great write up. Like you said, best bet would be to go for drives in other cammed cars and check some forumn sponsors. Just want a cam with low to mid range and bit of lump.


if you want a lumpy cam you will need a stally

Nothing over the top GMMAD, just enough to make me smile.


I have a 232/232 110lsa comp in mine, if your guna have a cammed ls1 it has to sound like one! Extremely happy with mine, over 300rwkw and sounds tough as. I personally wouldnt have any bigger or any smaller but everyone is differant. Hope your happy with what you choose mate.

I think that size would be a bit big for my requirements, but good point about having a cammed Ls1 sound like its got one. That size would probably require a stally.


If you want to put a lumpy cam in and dont wanna fit a hi-stall
just get comp cams to custom grind u one, get something small and drop the "LSA" to something like 108-110, cause the lower the "LSA" Which i think it mean Lobe Speration Angle, well the lower it is the lumper it will sound

Loco, did you end up getting a lumpy cam. Also is yours a manual or auto.