VE SS-V GEN4 Engine OIL- Which is best?!

[NezVim]

Most guys here, the fastidious ones at least, change their oil at the 3,000km inspection (which is not a service). As far as running in goes, I've read on here that modern engines do not need the running in process like older engines do. In fact some of the guys now reckon their engine is better for a good thrashing from new - just let the oil get up to temp first of course!!
Yep that's what am doing. Loading it up, vacuum pulls, wot when its at temp now and then, no constant rpm.

In regards to Edge 10W60 isnt that a bit too think for these things? HPF in dandy told me the use 0W30 in all LSX engines even after high power mods.

From the sound of it Edge 10w60 is the way to go from the user responses in this thread thou.

[bozodos]

I did a LOT of reading on here and the BITOG forum, basically 10w60 Edge seemed to win out in terms of actual evidence, and professional opinion.


There is an article about oil cooling for LSx motors in the latest Street Commodores, which goes and explains things somewhat, also a recommendation of 10w60 is made (love your tech articles about these cars you look down on so much Martin hahaha)

[NezVim]

I did a LOT of reading on here and the BITOG forum, basically 10w60 Edge seemed to win out in terms of actual evidence, and professional opinion.


There is an article about oil cooling for LSx motors in the latest Street Commodores, which goes and explains things somewhat, also a recommendation of 10w60 is made (love your tech articles about these cars you look down on so much Martin hahaha)

Thanks for the info. I will have to get the latest Street Commodores.

[aratic]

In regards to Edge 10W60 isnt that a bit too think for these things? HPF in dandy told me the use 0W30 in all LSX engines even after high power mods.

:popcorn:

Might as well use water...

[JimmyXR6T04]

I just had my series 2 Caprice serviced at a dealer, and they used 15w40... Oil cap specifies 5w30.... I wonder why they wouldn't use what is specified? I've used 10w60 in my XR6Ts, BF Fairlane V8 and never had any issues.

[NezVim]

:popcorn:

Might as well use water...

LOL very true.

I will put in Castrol 10W60 @ 3000km oil change. After reading the whole thread and a few articles on the net its the go.

[Blown 454 AWD]

Dealer knows Jack!

It's not running oil in from new.

Yes these engines need very little run in.

So ....

Make sure she warm, without over revving or labouring

Drive it like you stole it

At 1000klm flush and change filter and oil to your Group 4 Syn

This removes the swarf from bed in.

If you dive it too slow on run in, you risk glazing.

Cheers

Steve

[NezVim]

Dealer knows Jack!
Make sure she warm, without over revving or labouring

Drive it like you stole it

At 1000klm flush and change filter and oil to your Group 4 Syn

If you dive it too slow on run in, you risk glazing.
Steve
Hi Steve

No problem about taking it easy. My average fuel consumption is 19.6L on the dash :). I take it easy for the first 5-10 mins and then open her up, no constant rpm and I change gears about 3.5-4k mark with the occasional wot to red-line.

By the way how long do I need to stay away from constant rpm hwy driving? After 1000km or sooner / longer? I am going to Albury from Melb which is a good 400km from my pace in SE Burbs next weekend. Next week am away on business in so I don't think I will get more than 300km on her by next weekend? I can take my GF car if it will be a problem. But i don't want to spend 4 hours worrying if i need to change revs / gears / etc...

Also have read your posts on this tread very helpful and informative to have some from the oil industry recommend products and the why behind the recommendation. Funny thing is a guy down at super cheap was telling me that I should get 0w oil instead of 10w and don't worry about the number after W as it means nothing. I was astounded that someone that work for a auto store would not know how to read oil grades. I explained to him that XXW is the cold start viscosity and number after it is the normal operating viscosity but he would not budge. LOL funny stuff.

Thanks,

[Woodchukka]

Hi Steve

Funny thing is a guy down at super cheap was telling me that I should get 0w oil instead of 10w and don't worry about the number after W as it means nothing. I was astounded that someone that work for a auto store would not know how to read oil grades. I explained to him that XXW is the cold start viscosity and number after it is the normal operating viscosity but he would not budge. LOL funny stuff.

Thanks,

No surprise here.

[Wonky]

No surprise here.

Agree 100%!! :yup:

[NezVim]

What OIL filter would you guys recommend? Holden OEM or something else?

Thanks,

[vessloveit]

What OIL filter would you guys recommend? Holden OEM or something else?

Thanks,

OEM is as good as any there are not many choices in after market.

[NezVim]

I anyone needs oil check out Repco. They have a sale on till the 28th of October. From the looks of it huge saving.

eg - Penrite PREMIUM 5 - 5W-60 - $52.99
BTW is this oil any good compared to edge??

Cant find Edge 10W-60, but they have a special on 5W-30 -$49.99

Just thought I let you guys know.

[Drizt]

Right... I 'did' read through the whole thread and I can see that Catrol Edge 10W-60 is the overwhelming favourite (in this thread).

My father in law also happens to be my mechanic and he has advised me NOT to use 10W-60. His words were along the lines of "Fuel efficiency will suffer, cold starts could be a problem - oil take longer to get where it needs to go on start up". Is this correct? Is this something I should worry about?

My mate has a VY Calais LS1 that runs like a sewing machine it is that smooth and he runs Nulon 10W-30. He said if I was willing to pay more he recommended I go for Royal Purple 10W-40

Now I'm a complete noob and know almost nothing about oils. I'm getting the oil changed (and new brake disks / pads / oil) done next Tuesday and need to decide what I want to put in the car.

The car is a stock (with 2.5" DF catback) 2008 VE Calais V (L98) and has about 84,000kms on the clock. Perhaps a tad on the noisy side on a cold start but once up to temp its pretty smooth.

Any advice would be welcomed. Is there a reason 'NOT' to use Castrol Edge 10W-60 in my car? The cost of oil does not really bother me, but I don't think I could justify the Mainline oils (no offence).

[Plenty]

Right... I 'did' read through the whole thread and I can see that Catrol Edge 10W-60 is the overwhelming favourite (in this thread).

My father in law also happens to be my mechanic and he has advised me NOT to use 10W-60. His words were along the lines of "Fuel efficiency will suffer, cold starts could be a problem - oil take longer to get where it needs to go on start up". Is this correct? Is this something I should worry about?

My mate has a VY Calais LS1 that runs like a sewing machine it is that smooth and he runs Nulon 10W-30. He said if I was willing to pay more he recommended I go for Royal Purple 10W-40

Now I'm a complete noob and know almost nothing about oils. I'm getting the oil changed (and new brake disks / pads / oil) done next Tuesday and need to decide what I want to put in the car.

The car is a stock (with 2.5" DF catback) 2008 VE Calais V (L98) and has about 84,000kms on the clock. Perhaps a tad on the noisy side on a cold start but once up to temp its pretty smooth.

Any advice would be welcomed. Is there a reason 'NOT' to use Castrol Edge 10W-60 in my car? The cost of oil does not really bother me, but I don't think I could justify the Mainline oils (no offence).

Steve from mainlube recommends if you cannot afford his oil the Edge 10w 60 is the next best thing. Now for an industry EXPERT to say this should tell you something, I mean no offence to your father-in law but he probably in the scheme of things knows jack shit about oil. Other than price I cannot see a reason to not use it but Steve has given plenty of reasons why to use it.

Ultimately it's your decision but I know which oil I would and do use.

My 2cents worth

[Drizt]

Can't really argue with that.

Just got back from buying 2 x 5L bottles of Castrol Edge Titanium 10W-60

I'll know by Tuesday night how the car runs on the stuff :)

[Drizt]

Edge titanium 10W-60 is now in the car. Will report back.

[katlad]

I run Castrol Edge 10W-60 as recomended by my tuner.

Tried Nulon 10W-40 prior & didnt like it.

I am sticking with Castrol.

[macca_779]

I anyone needs oil check out Repco. They have a sale on till the 28th of October. From the looks of it huge saving.

eg - Penrite PREMIUM 5 - 5W-60 - $52.99
BTW is this oil any good compared to edge??

Cant find Edge 10W-60, but they have a special on 5W-30 -$49.99

Just thought I let you guys know.

I'm running the 10w70 now for the first time. Seems good so far and cheap when I got it for $30

[VZ_V8]

I'm running the 10w70 now for the first time. Seems good so far and cheap when I got it for $30

Was just about to ask about the Penrite 10w70. How long have you had it in for now?

[macca_779]

Was just about to ask about the Penrite 10w70. How long have you had it in for now?

A couple of weeks

[IJ.]

A couple of weeks
How is it behaving Macca?

I used Edge 25/50 just before my last Dyno session, noticed it discoloured quite a bit compared to the 10/60 I'd used previously, dumped it out and went back to the 10/60, without an oil test I can't say for sure that is was breaking down just didn't like the look of it.

[macca_779]

How is it behaving Macca?

I used Edge 25/50 just before my last Dyno session, noticed it discoloured quite a bit compared to the 10/60 I'd used previously, dumped it out and went back to the 10/60, without an oil test I can't say for sure that is was breaking down just didn't like the look of it.

I had the same thing happen when I went to hpr10. Went dirty real early. This stuff seems fine. But time will tell. Engine is as quiet as it was on edge 10w60

[IJ.]

I had the same thing happen when I went to hpr10. Went dirty real early. This stuff seems fine. But time will tell. Engine is as quiet as it was on edge 10w60

Good to hear, keep us updated if there's a any change please!

[gavlotic]

Guys,
Sorry for the thread dig. Noticed in our HSV owner's handbook that Dexos 1 5w30 is specified. What's the go with this?
I've always used thicker weight oils than this in ls1's.
If I have a thicker oil put in ie. 40 or 50 weight would this cause issues with warranty if we need to make a claim later on?
Thanks
Gav

[redvxr8clubby]

Guys,
Sorry for the thread dig. Noticed in our HSV owner's handbook that Dexos 1 5w30 is specified. What's the go with this?
I've always used thicker weight oils than this in ls1's.
If I have a thicker oil put in ie. 40 or 50 weight would this cause issues with warranty if we need to make a claim later on?
Thanks
Gav

I would say not using recommended oil will be jeopardising your warranty for sure. My son has a Dodge Journey, which has been serviced elsewhere (with log book entries) when he raised an issue with increasing engine noises (about 50,000 Km), the response basically you had it serviced elsewhere they don't use the recommended oil (I assume perhaps not full synthetic if this is recommendation). So basically you are risking blowing your warranty if not dealer serviced.

[katlad]

Not sure about the warranty thing but wouldn't have thought so.

I have been running Castrol Edge 10w-60 since the blower 2 1/2 years ago & would highly recommend it.

Tried a nulon 10w-40 once & didn't like it, was topping it up a bit.

I know a few guys running the same as me.

Paul

[katlad]

Just to add, mine isn't a daily & I service it by the km's not the date.

Sometimes can be quite a bit past the date & the oil is still quite clear.

Very happy with it.

[Plenty]

If the "wrong" oil is used it could void your warranty for sure, but in saying that there would be very few people that could actually tell the difference in used oil between say 10w60 or 5w30.

As long as they see a full service history and that there is actually oil in the car i'm sure there would be no issues at all.

[Smashfist]

If the "wrong" oil is used it could void your warranty for sure, but in saying that there would be very few people that could actually tell the difference in used oil between say 10w60 or 5w30.

As long as they see a full service history and that there is actually oil in the car i'm sure there would be no issues at all.

Incorrect. If your car is in for a warranty repair for a failed engine, and it's serviced outside the dealer network, you WILL be required to provide receipts and proof of oil type for servicing. I have seen engine jobs denied for incorrect oil grade (as they should be). If it's in warranty, you'd better be using the right oil.

FWIW, I'm using Mobil1 ESP 5/30 in my 160,000km LS1 and it seems to be loving it. It's quietened down the valvetrain noise from the 10/40 that it had in it previously. I do oil changes a bit more frequently than the 10,000 interval though.

[Plenty]

Incorrect. If your car is in for a warranty repair for a failed engine, and it's serviced outside the dealer network, you WILL be required to provide receipts and proof of oil type for servicing. I have seen engine jobs denied for incorrect oil grade (as they should be). If it's in warranty, you'd better be using the right oil.

FWIW, I'm using Mobil1 ESP 5/30 in my 160,000km LS1 and it seems to be loving it. It's quietened down the valvetrain noise from the 10/40 that it had in it previously. I do oil changes a bit more frequently than the 10,000 interval though.

Had an hydraulic lifter fail start of this year, fixed under a warranty and have been using 10w60 since new. You may have the odd dealer that will try to find any way out of warranty work by making any excuse, it's going to be pretty hard in the long run that the use of 10w60 over 5w30 contributed to any sort of mechanical failure and if you were to let them away with that, that would be weak.
Leather seats in the wifes SS-V wore at about 10,000km and they said it was fair wear and tear, i pursued the matter and basically got my own "professional" to look at it and deem the adhesion of the substrate to be below standards. I had the seat fixed under warranty cos they couldn't prove otherwise.
Point is unless they can prove that the oil used caused the failure, if pressured will fix it.

[gavlotic]

Thanks for the replies so far guys.
When log book servicing gets done by the dealer do they actually write what oil they use in the log book or is it simply stamped or just kept in their own files?
Sorry if it sounds like a dumb question but to be honest I have never owned a brand new car before...
I've always done my own servicing or had some jobs i didn't want to do done by certain workshops.
cheers,

[Smashfist]

You may have the odd dealer that will try to find any way out of warranty work by making any excuse

This is a piss poor view that's taken by a lot of people when warranty work is denied by a dealer. The dealer WANTS the work as they make money off it. If a claim is denied, then there are two likely scenarios:

1) The brand's district service manager has denied the claim
2) The dealer has deemed it outside what is allowed by the policies and procedures set by the brand and is an audit chargeback risk. That means that when (WHEN, not IF) the dealer gets audited there is a good chance it will be deemed a non-allowable claim and will be charged back to the dealer. The dealer doesn't want to have to pay for that work.

I have seen some horror chargebacks to dealers on the basis of poor evidence backing up a claim or lack of due-diligence (checking oil grades used would be a part of due diligence). You might find dealers willing to just claim anything but when they get that big audit that rips them a new arsehole then you can bet next time around it ain't going to happen.

FYI when a repair gets charged back to a dealer at audit, it's not just the $12k for the engine job either. There are clauses in place to inflate these costs in order to punish dealers for doing the wrong thing.

[sjhugh]

This is a piss poor view that's taken by a lot of people when warranty work is denied by a dealer. The dealer WANTS the work as they make money off it. If a claim is denied, then there are two likely scenarios:

1) The brand's district service manager has denied the claim
2) The dealer has deemed it outside what is allowed by the policies and procedures set by the brand and is an audit chargeback risk. That means that when (WHEN, not IF) the dealer gets audited there is a good chance it will be deemed a non-allowable claim and will be charged back to the dealer. The dealer doesn't want to have to pay for that work.

I have seen some horror chargebacks to dealers on the basis of poor evidence backing up a claim or lack of due-diligence (checking oil grades used would be a part of due diligence). You might find dealers willing to just claim anything but when they get that big audit that rips them a new arsehole then you can bet next time around it ain't going to happen.

FYI when a repair gets charged back to a dealer at audit, it's not just the $12k for the engine job either. There are clauses in place to inflate these costs in order to punish dealers for doing the wrong thing.


:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

[74SLR]

wow that was one hell of a read and still none the wiser as to what to run in my LS3. Yeah i know 10-60. I wish when people posted up their opinions ect they would throw down the tyre of donk and current k's as it gives a better understanding of their point of view. :)

[Wonky]

I've been using Edge 10w60 in my DOD delete L76 (i.e. effectively L98 now) MY9.5 ute since nearly new (getting on for 70,000km now) and see no reason at all to change! Oil and filter changed every 7,500km approx.. Not cheap short term but should be very cost effective long term. :yup:

[VZ_V8]

wow that was one hell of a read and still none the wiser as to what to run in my LS3. Yeah i know 10-60. I wish when people posted up their opinions ect they would throw down the tyre of donk and current k's as it gives a better understanding of their point of view. :)

All, you should really be concerned about is the opinions of the professionals, the ones who test and make this stuff. I.e. Steve from Mainlube. He has said on many occasions that Edge 10w60 is the best except for the Mainlube product. They aren't stating that based on just what they prefer, they are stating that based on filtergram analysis. You can't get much better than that...

The majority on here prefer Edge 10w60 but there is still a lot of members who use other products, and im sure with their combo, driving style, conditions etc. that oil works perfect for them. There are many oils which will do the job just fine. But if you were to pick one, surely you would go for the one which has actual data to back up why it is good. Also people are running Edge 10w60 in everything from an absolutely standard high KM LS1 to F/I race motors and everything in between...

Thats just my 2c anyway. At the end of the day, just try one, if your engine sounds good with it, you are probably on to a winner. If it doesn't, just try something else on the next change, nothing will be damaged in the interim.

[whitels1ss]

I had the same thing happen when I went to hpr10. Went dirty real early. This stuff seems fine. But time will tell. Engine is as quiet as it was on edge 10w60

So how has it stood the test of time macca?

[macca_779]

So how has it stood the test of time macca?

Was fine mate. It's just hard to get so I've ended up back on edge 10w60

[whitels1ss]

Was fine mate. It's just hard to get so I've ended up back on edge 10w60

Fair enough, the edge is pretty hard to beat.:goodjob:

[macca_779]

Fair enough, the edge is pretty hard to beat.:goodjob:

Can't go wrong with either. Penrite has just released a 10w60 to replace the 10w70 anyway. I'll use it when I can get it

[whitels1ss]

Can't go wrong with either. Penrite has just released a 10w60 to replace the 10w70 anyway. I'll use it when I can get it

Just seen that stuff

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=1&id_products=725

[bert02]

im currently using magnatec 10w30 in my LS1 215xxxKm
im quite happy with it. i get a faint lifter noise for about 5 seconds on cold start up then.
looking at dropping it out in a few months as it will be 12 months old.

Repco have Castrol edge 5w30 for $40/5L would that be better for the startup or just go 10w60 edge?

also on the frequency of oil changes does it matter how long the oil has been in it? i dont do too many Km per year, still drive it almost every day though.

[bert02]

cant seem to edit or find how to if im able to
car has done just over 4000km and oil still looks good. has a gold/brown colour alot better than my old car that used to look black

[Micks]

im currently using magnatec 10w30 in my LS1 215xxxKm
im quite happy with it. i get a faint lifter noise for about 5 seconds on cold start up then.
looking at dropping it out in a few months as it will be 12 months old.

Repco have Castrol edge 5w30 for $40/5L would that be better for the startup or just go 10w60 edge?

also on the frequency of oil changes does it matter how long the oil has been in it? i dont do too many Km per year, still drive it almost every day though.

Would avoid using any mineral type oils in LS1's they can be problematic, best full synth for longevity! :yup:

[BLACKVE]

im currently using magnatec 10w30 in my LS1 215xxxKm
im quite happy with it. i get a faint lifter noise for about 5 seconds on cold start up then.
looking at dropping it out in a few months as it will be 12 months old.

Repco have Castrol edge 5w30 for $40/5L would that be better for the startup or just go 10w60 edge?

also on the frequency of oil changes does it matter how long the oil has been in it? i dont do too many Km per year, still drive it almost every day though.

I always used magnatec 10w40 in my LS1's tried edge but rattled more so back to magnatec(was cammed though)

[white lie]

I'd still drop the oil after 6 months. You'll still get contaminants in there over time even if you're not doing a lot of kms per year.

[SimonNQ]

I have no idea as to what weight of oil my mechanic is using, I only know that by changing to the Fuchs he recommended, my engine has gone from around 30 seconds of start up lifter rattle to absolutely zero. Love this stuff..... The engine seems quieter all of the time, not just at startup...

[QldKev]

im currently using magnatec 10w30 in my LS1 215xxxKm
im quite happy with it. i get a faint lifter noise for about 5 seconds on cold start up then.
looking at dropping it out in a few months as it will be 12 months old.

Repco have Castrol edge 5w30 for $40/5L would that be better for the startup or just go 10w60 edge?

also on the frequency of oil changes does it matter how long the oil has been in it? i dont do too many Km per year, still drive it almost every day though.

Based on the fact that you don't do many km per year, but drive it nearly every day = lots of short trips. I would def change it as it builds up crap that doesn't get burnt off.

[VBhero]

Based on the fact that you don't do many km per year, but drive it nearly every day = lots of short trips. I would def change it as it builds up crap that doesn't get burnt off.

Maybe over kill, but mine doesn't do many KM per year, but still gets driven daily. I change the oil and filter every 3 months...
Cheap insurance I think.

I would be interested to see how the Penrite 10W60 stacks up against the Castrol. I was pretty much exclusive Penrite in all my cars since day dot of owning one.
I only changed to Castrol when I got the LS1 and was pointed to the various threads on here, and seeing what Mainlube had to say

[bert02]

thanks guys will drop the oil over christmas

[Jason01]

G'day Mainlube,

Having read through this thread and others on here more than once, various other oil forums and information available, I have a question regarding your statement below if you don't mind.

Top of the line Torco SR-5 is a group IV/V (PAO/Ester) base stock, Torco oils are not necessarily well known to the general public but are highly regarded and known for typically making more power and torque in most applications, SR-5 retails for around $28 a litre in Australia.

Joe Gibbs Driven, another well regarded, but not necessarily well known oil with the latest and allegedly greatest mPAO base stock for their synthetic versions recently cost me about $110 at trade price for seven quarts of synthetic HR 10W40. They have numerous oils in their range including an "LS" specific 5W30 which I think from memory is around $17 - $18 per quart.

These seem to me to be fairly high end and certainly more expensive synthetics compared to the more mainstream brand oils. If you have the time and are prepared to explain, I'd appreciate to know what difference there is between group IV base stocks as you mentioned below given they're all PAO/mPAO's, and your add packs compared to others that push the Mainlube synthetic oils up to $40 a litre and beyond. There's a huge price difference between 6 litres of Mainlube 175 at $240+ and the oils I mentioned let alone the much supported (on here at least) Edge 10W60 at around $90.

To the uneducated like myself in fairly simple terms if possible, what are the real differences between your oils and others for those dollars? Many thanks in advance.

Best wishes,
Jason.





No they are not the same, very different additive package and base oil (even though both are group IV)

You can built a standard engine or a LXS race engine, huge difference in price and quality.

A Skoda or a Merc

Cheers

[bert02]

im not saying this guy is right but
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ basically the thinner the better to some extent and this forum is saying the thicker the better to some extent.
who do you believe?

[Micks]

LS engines run very close tolerances, so thick oil is not really the answer!

[bert02]

LS engines run very close tolerances, so thick oil is not really the answer!

most recommended Castrol Edge 10W60 is this not a thick oil?

[Micks]

The idea of oil weighted 10w60 "10" is to provide good lubrication from ambient & "60" when engine is @ full/operating temp around 100c.
Higher initial no's eg 20W will fail to provide adequate cold lubrication protection. Hope that helps.
I find the Full synths achieve this more efficiently & will take plenty of heat too!

[loudvtss]

I'm about to change the oil in my car in a couple of months. The stock engine will have done 210,000km (L76). Apart from a flush is there anything else recommended? This question isn't triggered by anything in particular. Just thinking a different approach may be required with an engine that has done over 200,000km.

[Micks]

Would only do a flush if the internals are filthy otherwise could cause more trouble than it's worth. Hard to beat regular changes. If funds permit & you have a good engine synthetics are the way to go.

[loudvtss]

Time for an oil change and Repco are having a sale on Penrite oil. Is there a Penrite oil equivalent or better than the Castrol Edge 10w60? Car is still a little noisy with the Castrol oil.

[white lie]

Ten tenths 15w50?
If it's noisey in 10w60, I'd be checking your preload and lifters. Generally if it's noisey on 10w60, something ain't right

[Micks]

Time for an oil change and Repco are having a sale on Penrite oil. Is there a Penrite oil equivalent or better than the Castrol Edge 10w60? Car is still a little noisy with the Castrol oil.

They use to have 10-60 plus 10 but now just 10-60, use in both my 6L & is really good gear.

[BLACKVE]

Ten tenths 15w50?
If it's noisey in 10w60, I'd be checking your preload and lifters. Generally if it's noisey on 10w60, something ain't right

Our AFM L76 was noisey on 10w60, loved 5w30 edge.

[LS2_307]

Penrite HPR 30 is in mine and has been for quite a few years.
As per engine builders recommendation.
Nothing else goes in it.

:)

[Micks]

Our AFM L76 was noisey on 10w60, loved 5w30 edge.

Had no dramas in our Calais on afm, come to think of it the l76 was never quiet :lol:

[XUV]

Time for an oil change and Repco are having a sale on Penrite oil. Is there a Penrite oil equivalent or better than the Castrol Edge 10w60? Car is still a little noisy with the Castrol oil.
Try their own 10w60
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/Portal/product_images/web/FS10W60005.png

[Micks]

Shame Penrite dropped the 10-70 as it had the edge over their 10-60.

[Drizt]

Pretty sure it's just a name change / marketing

[white lie]

Shame Penrite dropped the 10-70 as it had the edge over their 10-60.

No pun intended? [emoji6]

[disorganise]

This thread has been an incredible learning opportunity. In fact, it is the main reason I signed up for an account :) Took me a few days to get through it!
Shame Steve the mainlube guy stopped posting since Sept 2012, he seems to really know his stuff. Did Mainlube pull sponsorship or something cos I haven't found the section alluded to in post 2: "check Mainlube's sponsor section for some very good tech info."

[IJ.]

This thread has been an incredible learning opportunity. In fact, it is the main reason I signed up for an account :) Took me a few days to get through it!
Shame Steve the mainlube guy stopped posting since Sept 2012, he seems to really know his stuff. Did Mainlube pull sponsorship or something cos I haven't found the section alluded to in post 2: "check Mainlube's sponsor section for some very good tech info."
Steve is still here "Blown 454 AWD" ;)

[MAYONES]

Cheers for the info in this thread! At the end of the day quality is never cheap ;)

[disorganise01]

Is 10w60 still the oil to go for with the LSA? I assume it is but this thread never specifically mentioned it I think.

[Micks]

Is 10w60 still the oil to go for with the LSA? I assume it is but this thread never specifically mentioned it I think.
Is the car is under a statutory warranty? If so stick with their recommended viscosity. Suggest a synthetic grade though.

[Plenty]

Is the car is under a statutory warranty? If so stick with their recommended viscosity. Suggest a synthetic grade though.

I would like to see them prove 1) that the "incorrect" oil was used and 2) that using said oil was directly responsible for the damage that occurred. In saying that though there is nothing really wrong with the Mobil 1 that is specified so if your not planning on keeping your car for 200,000 then i can't see it being an issue.

[disorganise01]

Is the car is under a statutory warranty? If so stick with their recommended viscosity. Suggest a synthetic grade though.
Not picked the car up yet. Will be December. Obsessing now so I can enjoy driving instead of fretting when I get it :)

[disorganise01]

there is nothing really wrong with the Mobil 1 that is specified so if your not planning on keeping your car for 200,000 then i can't see it being an issue.

Well I guess there's the thing. I plan to keep this car forever. Or at least until petrol disappears. So it could well be 200,000 or more.

[Micks]

Not picked the car up yet. Will be December. Obsessing now so I can enjoy driving instead of fretting when I get it :)


Congrats on your new purchase :goodjob: Reckon a good quality 10-60 like Penrite full synth is great stuff. Use in both my rides & run happily on it.

[disorganise01]

Thanks :D. The months seem to be getting longer and longer at the moment!
Dealer trust seems to be another issue. Unless there's some test you can do (cheaply) to verify the oil, then there's no guarantee of what they put it. So.....
I'll change the oil myself every 7500km or so. But when I take it for a service, say the 15000 I assume an oil change is part of it. Do I let them do it and then drive home and swap back to 10w60?
And if so, do I still pay for the extra for Mobil 1 (cos I believe it's synthetic? ) or let them put the cheap stuff in? I assume the cheap stuff is mineral so how does that affect a synthetic?
I don't have a trusted mechanic unfortunately. Open to suggestions though. ..Northern beaches, Sydney.

[Micks]

Best do your first change a little earlier than 7.5K. I would be leaning to 1.5k first then 7.5k intervals following.

[disorganise01]

Fair enough. But what about the dealership bit. Obviously I'll want to maintain warranty so the servicing needs to be by the book (additional oil changes aside) so will the std oil be ok in the car for a day or two until I could replace it? Or do synthetic and mineral not play nice?

[Micks]

Fair enough. But what about the dealership bit. Obviously I'll want to maintain warranty so the servicing needs to be by the book (additional oil changes aside) so will the std oil be ok in the car for a day or two until I could replace it? Or do synthetic and mineral not play nice?

You can have your own mechanic change your oils & still have your preferred dealer do any other works/warranty work.
Our Cal V sportswagon has had 8 oil changes in 36K plus stealership services every 15K.

[white lie]

Fair enough. But what about the dealership bit. Obviously I'll want to maintain warranty so the servicing needs to be by the book (additional oil changes aside) so will the std oil be ok in the car for a day or two until I could replace it? Or do synthetic and mineral not play nice?
You shouldn't mix mineral and synthetic. But just because it's a cheaper oil doesn't mean it's mineral.

You can also supply drums of your own oil and tell them to use that. They should in turn take off the cost of the oil from your servicing cost. Well, any decent mechanic would, not sure about a stealership.
Seems pretty wasteful to get them to put new oil in and then drop it when you get home.

[disorganise01]

You can have your own mechanic change your oils & still have your preferred dealer do any other works/warranty work.
.

Thanks. As I said before I don't have a mechanic. So was planning to drop the oil myself.

[disorganise01]

You can also supply drums of your own oil and tell them to use that. They should in turn take off the cost of the oil from your servicing cost. Well, any decent mechanic would, not sure about a stealership.
Seems pretty wasteful to get them to put new oil in and then drop it when you get home.

Ok. 2 questions pop to mind: how do you verify they actually put your supplied oil in? I've read places where the lads in back toss up who takes home the expensive customer suppled oil whilst filling the car with the regular stuff. How would you know?

And 2) if the book says 10w30 and you supply 10w60 then aren't you opening the door for arguments if a warranty issue arises?

[white lie]

Ok. 2 questions pop to mind: how do you verify they actually put your supplied oil in? I've read places where the lads in back toss up who takes home the expensive customer suppled oil whilst filling the car with the regular stuff. How would you know?

And 2) if the book says 10w30 and you supply 10w60 then aren't you opening the door for arguments if a warranty issue arises?
That comes down to trusting your mechanic. If you can't trust them to put your oil in, they shouldn't be working on your car as far as I'm concerned.

I can't say they'd stamp what oil they put in to the book. Perhaps on a receipt but in the book it will just have the box ticked that the oil was changed. That will be enough for any warranty issues surely?

May I ask why you have to get the car serviced at the dealers?

[disorganise01]

That comes down to trusting your mechanic.

May I ask why you have to get the car serviced at the dealers?

Well I don't have a mechanic or go to guy.
I assumed you had to stick with the dealer for warranty on a new car? I don't get the car till December though so not read the book.

[white lie]

You can get the log book services done at any registered mechanic. As long as the book is stamped, there should not be an issue with warranty.

[Wonky]

Well I don't have a mechanic or go to guy.
I assumed you had to stick with the dealer for warranty on a new car? I don't get the car till December though so not read the book.
As white lie said, for factory warranty you only need to have it done by a qualified mechanic.

Many dealers offer extended warranties and those are typically a different kettle of fish, requiring your car to always be serviced by them, or at least another dealer who services that brand.

Such warranties vary and many are of dubious value, designed to just get wood ducks to keep having their vehicle serviced there rather than at their own mechanic.

[Woodchukka]

As white lie said, for factory warranty you only need to have it done by a qualified mechanic.

Many dealers offer extended warranties and those are typically a different kettle of fish, requiring your car to always be serviced by them, or at least another dealer who services that brand.

Such warranties vary and many are of dubious value, designed to just get wood ducks to keep having their vehicle serviced there rather than at their own mechanic.
Had extended warranty on wife's VZ. Not that a lot went wrong but anything that did was not covered. The extended warranty's are not worth 2 knobs of goat s#!t if you ask me. I'll never bother maintaining one if it is ever "offered" on a car.

[white lie]

Had extended warranty on wife's VZ. Not that a lot went wrong but anything that did was not covered. The extended warranty's are not worth 2 knobs of goat s#!t if you ask me. I'll never bother maintaining one if it is ever "offered" on a car.
I reckon the stuff that does get covered you would have paid for anyway in the higher servicing costs over the years.

[Woodchukka]

I reckon the stuff that does get covered you would have paid for anyway in the higher servicing costs over the years.
It is the add on's to the service that you have to watch. They did a power steer flush and an injector clean. Can't remember the exact cost of both now but I near fell over. I recall the injector clean was about $90 odd.

The power steer flush I can handle as it would have been unlikely to have ever been changed however the injector clean... I called and asked if they removed the injectors and cleaned them and was told that they hooked the car to a separate tank with a "cleaning fluid" and ran the car. I said to the bloke so I could have put a bottle of injector clean in the tank and done the same thing for far less money. There was no way to prove that they did any such thing as the car ran no differently.

After that I asked the wife not to approve work other than the service unless they called me and I gave them the go ahead as they basically took advantage of her not knowing better.

[Micks]

It is the add on's to the service that you have to watch. They did a power steer flush and an injector clean. Can't remember the exact cost of both now but I near fell over. I recall the injector clean was about $90 odd.

The power steer flush I can handle as it would have been unlikely to have ever been changed however the injector clean... I called and asked if they removed the injectors and cleaned them and was told that they hooked the car to a separate tank with a "cleaning fluid" and ran the car. I said to the bloke so I could have put a bottle of injector clean in the tank and done the same thing for far less money. There was no way to prove that they did any such thing as the car ran no differently.

After that I asked the wife not to approve work other than the service unless they called me and I gave them the go ahead as they basically took advantage of her not knowing better.
That's what those bastards prey on..you send the missus in & she just says yeah whatever. We all know the work doesn't actually get carried out!