VE SS-V GEN4 Engine OIL- Which is best?!

[jonnyd1986]

Hey all what engine oil is best for these engines? Which oils protect the best and dont burn...etc

I've been putting Penrite's SIN engine oil in my VE SS-V every 11000kms odd. I've got a service coming up so i just wanted to know whats the best oil i can get.

Also whats the best oil i can put in my stock diff? Cars done 32000kms.

Thanks.

Jon

[macca33]

There are plenty of oil threads to assist you - do a search and all will be revealed. Also, check Mainlube's sponsor section for some very good tech info.

Many have different brand loyalties, etc, so read up and make a decision for yourself.

For my donk, Castrol Edge 10w60 with new filter every 5000ks.

Cheers,

Macca

[VZ_V8]

I've been putting Penrite's SIN engine oil in my VE SS-V every 11000kms odd.


:shock: are the newer models only recommended to have oil changes at intervals that far apart. I do mine every 5K max, bit of insurance for next to nothing considering i do it myself. BTW i use Motul however mine is a 6. Dad uses magnatec in his LS1 after good reviews from people using it on here, quieter than when it was on mobil 1 or penrite.... anyways there are lots of oil threads around which arent reall that old...

[jonnyd1986]

There are plenty of oil threads to assist you - do a search and all will be revealed. Also, check Mainlube's sponsor section for some very good tech info.

Macca

Thanks although I did search before posting the thread but didnt find many/any talking about engine oils. Especially VE V8's.

Jon

[VZ_V8]

although i'm not 100% sure, I would say that the engine oils which are best for the VZ 6l or even the 5.7L would be good as well for the VE 6l, same engine materials and setup.

[Ridin-High]

Royal purple k thnx bye

[SS Enforcer]

The last 2 changes have been Mobil One on recomendation from my mechanic no complaints from me so far. I change it every 7-8000 k's.

cheers

[hithere]

OP, how many kms on the clock?

I am under the impression that rings have to bed in while the engine is new. So, for the first 8,000 - 10,000kms, I am using 100% mineral oil to assist this process. Friction modified/synthetic oil prevents this from happening properly.

After 10,000kms, I will switch to something of a blend.

Also, my understanding of oil is that if you stick with big brand names, any oil will do as long as you replace them more frequently than 15,000kms. I plan to change oil + filter every 7,500kms.

[Space Pope]

Yeah any good quality oil is fine...10w30 is ok but I prefer a 10w40 in these motors. I've slated the change intervals for this car at 7,500 km rather than 5,000. I think with the oils these days that's a fair thing as long as you use an engine flush with each service.


My motor might have used 100ml in 7,500 km which isn't bad...especially compared to the early LS1's (and that is using dealer 10w30). So I can't see you'll need to top up between sevices with normal use. Just check the oil every week along with your other checks.

[AndrewMSS]

Royal purple k thnx bye

Yep, Royal Purple 10w40....expensive but you will notice the difference.

[HEXEM]

Hi all,

Well I did some ringing around different holden dealerships today asking what brand name engine oil, viscosity, blended, fully synthetic they use.

The most common response from the 20 dealerships I called (in NSW) was that they used the following: Mobil Super S 10w-30 (Blended oil) and Mobil 1 10w-30, 5w-30 and 0w-40, also Valvoline Problend 10w-30 (blended oil) a 10w-40 (blended oil) and Valvoline SynPower 5w-40 (synthetic).

A couple of dealerships used the Castrol Magnatec 10w-30 (blended oil) and a10w-40 (blended oil).

1 dealer service department uses Caltex 10w-30 but was unable to tell me the series name Caltex oil used.

The holden dealer that uses the Mobil 1 0w-40 said that they are using it on all the Gen4 (LS2) engines in the VE range and have not had any issues. The dealer is also a Mercedes Benz (sorry about the spelling if I am wrong) dealer and the Mobil 1 0w-40 oil is the only one recommended for that vehicle.

My question to the group is, is there anyone using this oil currently in their VEs, what is it like?. As I am in Canberra we have low temps overnight and the first start up is where you want the oil up top as quickly as it can (so I am told)

I am thinking of putting this oil in my VE SSV. I can buy it direct from a Mobil outlet here for $64 per 5ltr container, cheaper than the 10w-30 mobil 1 from supercheap (around the $85 mark).

The workshop mechanic I spoke to at the dealership said that the 0w rating allowed the oil to get to the top of the engine alot quicker at colder temps etc etc.

I know this topic has been prolly flogged to death but are there any thoughts out there?.

Cheers
Phil

[igniton]

i use caltex havoline 10w/50 synthetic in my cammed VE SS
very smooth and quiet cold start ups.....
i did use mobile 1 10w/30 for a while but my valve train was a little bit noisier with my camshaft lobe profiles....
all good now with the 10w/50 in...

[HEXEM]

Hi all,

Well I went out and bought Mobil1 0w40 today and it will be put in the car in the morning.

I spoke with more dealers around the country today and found out that holden released a bulliten on the use of Mobil1 oil for HSV and 6.0ltr V8 range.
The traditional Mobil1 10w30 have been superceeded with Mobil1 5w30 or 0w40 with a whole lot of other info he read out.

Some of the dealers I spoke with today said they are using the Mobil1 0w40 for the HSV range and some customers (who can afford it) are using it in their V8 range commodores. When I mentioned I lived in Canberra where this morning it was -4 they said that the 0w40 would be ideal but admit that if you lived in the north of Australia where the temp is alot warmer you might not need the 0w rated oil.

The dealers I spoke to also sell Audi and Merceedes and said that the new rated Mobil 1 0w40 oil is standard fitment for these euro cars and warrenty could be voided if not used. There is also a variant to this oil and its the ESP version (specific to euro cars). This version is only available in workshop quantity. When I spoke to the mobil oil outlet here in Canberra the guys that delivers it said only 1 dealer in Canberra uses it, the rest get the new super syn Mobil1 0w40 which you can buy off the shelf in 5ltr containers ($64 each).

Anyway I thought some of you might like to know this info (some might not care... lol). I will let you all know how it goes and what I think of it..

Cheers for now
Phil

[CSP]

I'm 1000km away from changing my oil. Will have to give the new Mobil1 0w40 a go I think.

[Wonky]

I asked a well respected tuner/sponsor after being told he recommended a particular product and found out it was CASTROL EDGE SPORT. Will have to check the container tomorrow to see what viscosity as can't remember for sure. Put it in 1,000km ago at the 15,000 service and no complaints so far (not that I drive my car hard enough to tell). :D

[Squidders]

Mate as a Technician and a proud VE owner I'd highly recommend Mobil 1 I really think this is one of the best oils out there, But it is up to you do some research. And usually the best form of research is asking friends and family I recon, if you have any that have similar vehicle ask them for their preference etc. But as I said I'd use mobil 1 But that is just my opinion.

Cheers

Squidds.

[VZ_V8]

i would speak to '450 KW Adventra' about viscosities etc. He understands that not everyone can afford to buy the mainlube products, and from my experiences he is happy to comment on other brands objectively if you PM him.

Is it just me or does 0w-40 sound thin :shock: my dad has just had 15w-50 supersyn mobil 1 put in his LS1 and it has never run better, smooth, quite good on all start ups. He bought it through work from a supplier and got it at less than $80 each when he bought a 3x5L box...

[HEXEM]

i would speak to '450 KW Adventra' about viscosities etc. He understands that not everyone can afford to buy the mainlube products, and from my experiences he is happy to comment on other brands objectively if you PM him.

Is it just me or does 0w-40 sound thin :shock: my dad has just had 15w-50 supersyn mobil 1 put in his LS1 and it has never run better, smooth, quite good on all start ups. He bought it through work from a supplier and got it at less than $80 each when he bought a 3x5L box...

Hi VU_V6,

I have seen the discussions from 450 KW in some other posts on this topic. There is alot of very wide opinions on what to use and what not to use.

Thats why I phoned around up to 30 dealers and other places over the last few days to get a feel for what's being used out there.

While I was at the Mobil outlet one of the techs there said to use the mobil 1 5w50 however he did change his mind after I told him I only have 30K on the clock. He mentioned that when the car gets to around 100K then go for the slightly thicker oil.

As I understand it that the 0w rating is only thin at cold start allowing fast flow to the top of the motor while in cold climate areas such as Canberra (currently about -2 right now). If you lived on the Gold Coast or areas with much more warmer climate you probably wouldnt need to go this way.

"Wonky" - I do believe that Ford recommends Castrol Edge 0w30 in there high performance vehicles as I have read on the net.. Not sure if its the same as your using.

Thanks for your comments guys its appreciated.. Will let you know how it goes.

Cheers
Phil

[Blown 454 AWD]

I appreciate the fact that you guys have spoken to many shops however, as an advanced trade automotive engineer my self I can tell you there is jack training about oils in an apprenticeship, you have to learn most of this shit yourself.

I have been fortunate enough to play in this field for 30 years. (apart from owning an oil company and advising how to run some of the largest and most powerful machinery in the world)

The key factor here is film strength, this is what keeps your load bearing surfaces from touching. The higher the viscosity the better the film strength the less the wear.

Now there is a extremely small trade off with resistance to flow however, its barley measurable, also a good high tech Synthetic will reduce any drag from a higher viscosity with a superior slippery additive package when combined with higher viscosity it isn't hard to double the machines life.

Now just to squash a few myths about oil like 10w60 being too thick, see the facts below.

And by the way, you asked what is the best, without a doubt, Mainlube is, its just bloody expensive. (funny that!):)


10w60 MUST give better protection than 10w40 provided the additive packages and base oils are similar. Synthetics will give better protection as their base oils naturally have a higher V.I. (viscosity Index) additives can also be added to boost the V.I. The higher the V.I. the less the oil thins when heated the better film strength and hence less wear.

Everyone puts so much attention on the viscosity @ 40C (quoted on the packaging) have a look at viscosity @ 100C, (from the spec) this is the temperature your oil is at 99.5% of the time.

0w30 is around ISO 10 @ 100C (SAE 3) approx. (very much like penetrating oil)
15w40 is around ISO 14 @ 100C (SAE 4) approx.
20w50 is around ISO 18 @ 100C (SAE 6) approx.
10w60 is around ISO 22 @ 100C (SAE 8) approx.

Sowing machine oil is around SAE 7 @ 40C to give you some comparison on just how thin your engine oil is @ 100C.

So as you can see, there's not much difference @ 100C (running temp) between the oils.

The thicker the oil @ 100C the better film strength (layer of oil keeping the load bearing surfaces apart, reducing noise and wear)

And of course any kind of noise (other than combustion knock) has to and must be different stages of very slight metal to metal contact. (hence different stages of wear)

Within 30 seconds from a cold start up your engine oil would've warmed up at least 10 to 20C above it's starting temperature so the oil is not at the starting temp for very long.



So change your oil at 1000klms from new (don't forget to flush) then change straight to a Synthetic 10w60 and do the best for your engine.

To do better run 1 or even 2 FilterMags on your oil filter, 2 will ensure all oil going into your engine passes over a rare earth magnet, this will remove ferrous metal that can be small enough to fit through your paper element oil filter yet still be large enough to damage load bearing surfaces as they're forced through by the oil flow. This can cause even more damage if your engine is modified applying extra load.

Cheers

Steve




Mainlube Superior Maintenance Lubricants Pty Ltd
www.Mainlube.com.au

[HEXEM]

Thanks 450 kW,

Well guys and gals... Heres the verdict on the Mobil1 0w40.

It went in.

The HSV mechanic didnt want me using it. Said it will make you engine sound like a diesel.

After driving it the car for about 15 mins at 60klms /hour I arrived back at the dealership and sure enough, the engine sounded like something was loose rolling around in the bottom of the engine.

I dumped the oil and put in a standard Mobil Super S 10w40 blended oil just to get me going. Alot better but I noticed the engine noise was still there just not as bad.

I am not thinking of using the Royal Purple 10w40. I did some 'further' searching on the net and phone a very helpful at AutoBarn this afternoon. He seemed to know a bit about oils etc..

I gave him 2 different oil choices Royal Purple 10w40 and Castrol Edge Sport 10w60. He mentioned the similar things that 450kw has about the viscosity rating and that the 10w60 will provide more engine protection at operating (or higher) temp than that of the Mobil1 0w40 etc.

He did mention that the service interval for the Castrol Edge Sport was about every 10,000klm and the Royal Purple is designed for to provide better protection at 15,000klm intervals. Out of the 2 oil he said that the Royal Purple was the better, but the Castrol Edge Sport was a good choice also.

SO, I am thinking of getting the Royal in the morning and an engine flush aditive and changing the oil. This oil is going in my VE SSV GEN4..

Any opinions on my next adventure?... Also what engine flush treatment should I use? that I can buy over the counter at the spares shop?..

Cheers
Phil

[vessloveit]

Hi VE-SSV I use NULON engine oil flush available from Supercheap, The guy that does my services (not holden stealership) says that the oil (mainlube 175) in my engine looks like new before oil change after adding the NULON and running engine for about 15minutes (do not drive it) the oil comes out like real dark.

[HEXEM]

Hi VE-SSV I use NULON engine oil flush available from Supercheap, The guy that does my services (not holden stealership) says that the oil (mainlube 175) in my engine looks like new before oil change after adding the NULON and running engine for about 15minutes (do not drive it) the oil comes out like real dark.

Thanks for the reply vessloveit:

@$40 per ltr for the mainlube its a little bit to rich for my pocket. Can you buy Mainlube 175 in the shops?..

As I mentioned I am heading in the direction of RP 10w40.
So can you add the NULON while the engine oil is hot?.
Do you just leave the car idle stationary for 15mins while it does its stuff?

I intend to let the car cool down before I drop the oil so I dont burn myself. I have to drive my car for about 1 hour (round trip) to buy the products first..

Thanks for the advice.

Phil

[VTR8Clubby]

Thanks for the reply vessloveit:

@$40 per ltr for the mainlube its a little bit to rich for my pocket. Can you buy Mainlube 175 in the shops?..

As I mentioned I am heading in the direction of RP 10w40.
So can you add the NULON while the engine oil is hot?.
Do you just leave the car idle stationary for 15mins while it does its stuff?

I intend to let the car cool down before I drop the oil so I dont burn myself. I have to drive my car for about 1 hour (round trip) to buy the products first..

Thanks for the advice.

Phil

I Always do mine hot to make sure it all drains out properly. I don't know if it's necessary or not though.

[bouka]

For what it's worth, I run Castrol Edge 10/60.

Have spoken with Steve (450 kw Adventra) on many occasions and he is a gentleman and extremely knowledgeable and with his guidance the 10/60 was the logical choice (after i asked dozens of questions, thanks for all the advice Steve).

The Clubby runs some high oil temps (110 deg is normal op temp in mine) so i want the protection. It runs smoother and quieter with the 10/60 (noticeably). Have used some expensive stuff in the past in this and other ls series motors and, so far, the 10/60 is the best i have used.

I would love to use the Mainlube stuff but just a little too expensive for regular changes (5-8k).

[Blown 454 AWD]

As already proven, none of the above match the Mainlube 175 Synthetic Race Oil SAE 10w60 for protection, longevity and quality however, if this is a little rich for your pocket, my next choice would be the Castrol Edge Sport 10w60, I haven't heard any bad shit about this product.

If flushing with an additive, add the flushing additive to cheap supermarket oil say around 20w30 and procedure?? "use the the force Luke" (read the Mainlube flushing instruction here) (http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=64867)

As for engine oils lasting 15000 klms between changes? depends on your driving conditions.

The VE says 15,000 klms, they achieved this by making the sump bigger, more oil gets used less (put through the motor less) so it lasts longer.

With the Mainlube 175 Synthetic Race Oil SAE 10w60 We offer a free oil analysis at the prescribed OEM change interval to check and see if an extension is possible, it's all about how much shit your motor / driving habits degradate the oil.

You can add any of these things to a hot or cold engine.

The hotter the oil is when you drain it the more of the old oil drains from the engine, wear gloves. :)

Cheers

Steve

[HEXEM]

Thanks for the top info guys.

Well I have bought the RP 10/40 to try. Oil is draining now and yes it was too hot to touch... lol..

Its running out like water..

If the RP 10/40 doesnt do the trick my next option is the Castrol Edge Sport 10/60.

Steve: In your opinion, my choice of running RP 10/40 a safe oil to use in my VE-SSV?. I understand that the 10/60 provides that bit more high end temp protection, this is just the way I have gone first up.

My driving habbits are probably not what you'd associate with a V8 owner. It gets driven to work mostly (50klm round trip each day) occasional use on weekends and doesnt get driven hard. Very smooth excelleration driving. The are the odd occasions where I will 'Up-It' to overtake on roads going to the coast.

Cheers
Phil

[Martin_D]

We always use the Mainlube 10w-60 when developing high performance engine combinations. Not only does it give the very best margin for protection, it also comes with the detailed analysis that Mainlube can deliver that describes how the engine is wearing with the increased power load. This process is invaluable to the serious engineering company :)

[VTR8Clubby]

I do alot of short trips of about 5 km. Should I still use the 10/60 or something a bit thinner? I think my car spends more time warming up than it does at operating temps. It does get regular longer journeys of 10-20k's but doesn't see the freeway much.
I was thinking of trying the Nulon 15/50.
Any comments?

[Blown 454 AWD]

10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60.

Cheers

Steve

[VTR8Clubby]

10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60.

Cheers

Steve

Ok, Thanks.


I think

[HEXEM]

Well those posts should get the point across!.... hehehe.

The RP 10w40 is in an the engine seems to be alot quieter and smoother (It scared me abit when I opened the bottle and the oil was 'Purple'). I will reserve full judgement after I get to heat it on a trip into the city.

Castrol Edge Sport 10w60 will be on standby.. hehe...

[Alister]

I think Royal Purple is overrated. Some people treat is like its a miracle oil and that it will make a huge difference but sadly it won't. It's a great oil (i'm using the 10W-40 currently in the Calais) but the the performance and fuel economy gains the company claims, are just a little bit too far fetched for me. There are a few reviews around that show decent results but they compare it to a substandard oil to begin with.

The previous owner of my Calais had the car serviced with Magnatec from 40 000 - 110 000km. I then have had it serviced at Powertorque with whatever they use. Last PT service was at about 137 000km, I dumped the oil at 139 994km (it was black as night btw) and refilled with Royal Purple 10W-40 with a Purolator filter. The difference? Maybe its very slightly smoother at idle but it really doesn't feel any different when driving (I decided a clean oil change feels the same). I don't feel any performance or see any economy gain as yet either. I'll continue using it only because I got some at a good price (Autobarn 20% sale = $68 for a 5L). Or else i'll try the Castrol Edge 10w-60, Mainlube is a pipe dream for someone on my wage.

BTW - start up lifter noise did not change at all going from previous oil to Royal Purple.

[HEXEM]

For what it's worth, I run Castrol Edge 10/60.

Have spoken with Steve (450 kw Adventra) on many occasions and he is a gentleman and extremely knowledgeable and with his guidance the 10/60 was the logical choice (after i asked dozens of questions, thanks for all the advice Steve).

The Clubby runs some high oil temps (110 deg is normal op temp in mine) so i want the protection. It runs smoother and quieter with the 10/60 (noticeably). Have used some expensive stuff in the past in this and other ls series motors and, so far, the 10/60 is the best i have used.

I would love to use the Mainlube stuff but just a little too expensive for regular changes (5-8k).

Ok, just a quick update.. (geez I have spent some money on oil this week :confused: oh well!)

On the advice of Steve (450kw Adventra) and others that have had good results using the Castrol Edge, I have put the Castrol Edge Sport 10w60 in SSV tonight with new filter, the works. And like bouka (above) I did notice a difference as soon as I started the engine in how quiet it ran at idle compared to the Royal Purple (RP) 10w40. The RP certainly was better than the Mobil Super S 10w40, Castrol Magnatec 10w30 and the Mobil1 0w40 in terms of engine noise.

Cheers,
Phil

[HEXEM]

Hi all,

Continuing saga.

The Castrol Edge Sport 10w60 is out of the engine. On advice from my holden dealer. Using the 10w60 could have a negative impact on my warrenty due to it being a bit to far from the recommended oil viscosity. So I am back to a 10w30 as per the book. I can't afford to test this therory...

Throughout my experiments I did notice the different behaviour in the oil pressure meter on the dash. The meter showed a higher reading at operating temp than previously. On a steady excelleration it would increase from 4 bars to 5. On idle at the lights it would sit at 3bars instead of 2..

Probably nothing realy in that but something I noticed.

Cheers all,

Phil

[Blown 454 AWD]

Hi all,

Continuing saga.

The Castrol Edge Sport 10w60 is out of the engine. On advice from my holden dealer. Using the 10w60 could have a negative impact on my warrenty due to it being a bit to far from the recommended oil viscosity. So I am back to a 10w30 as per the book. I can't afford to test this therory...

Throughout my experiments I did notice the different behaviour in the oil pressure meter on the dash. The meter showed a higher reading at operating temp than previously. On a steady excelleration it would increase from 4 bars to 5. On idle at the lights it would sit at 3bars instead of 2..

Probably nothing realy in that but something I noticed.

Cheers all,

Phil


There is no way possible that 10w60 could hurt your engine in any way what so ever, I would like to hear a valid reason on how it can.

Don't waste your time talking to text book warriors as they don't know jack.

If you didn't tell them it was in there they would never ever know, even if they tested it the test wouldn't say it was a 10w60. Remember even a 10w60 @ 100c is no thicker than sowing machine oil.

If you had any issues with other things going wrong and you feared the 10w60 would cause warranty issues,(even though it wasn't the problem) they would dip the oil to see it has some and how clean it looked, rub it between their finger and thumb and it if felt slippery they would figure it would be normal.

The book doesn't say you can't use a 10w60 and it would be impossible to prove it could cause an issue in a LS series engine (cause it can't)
If they pull this shit in a court of law, they would loose and have to stand by the warranty.

If a 10w60 could damage any engine and or void any warranty the oil manufacture would have to put a warning on the can.

If you ask the noddy at the dealer he will quote the book as this is all he knows.

If you don't open a can of worms there won't be an issue.

Cheers

Steve

[macca33]

I've been using Castrol Edge 10w60 for 15-20k now, changing every 5k and it has been great. Put simply, I cannot justify Mainlube - even though I fully appreciate that it is the top product.

Steve's advice in this and other lubricant threads has been extremely valuable and if he is prepared to look favourably upon the Castrol product, then who am I, or anyone else, to argue?

FWIW, yesterday I changed to a much more aggressive cam than what I had in the car. The new cam was driven for a few miles on the old oil - 10w30 or so from memory, that had been put into the car during the last 'handbook' service, about 2000k's ago - I left it in because I knew I would be changing the cam and oil anyway. Today, I dropped that oil and replaced it with Castrol Edge 10w60 and the valvetrain noise was reduced noticeably.

Cheers,

Macca

[Alex(AUS)]

10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60, 10w60.

Cheers

Steve

Hi Steve,

Where can I get the oil filter magnets for the VE LS2 in Melbourne? Are they also available online?

Thanks,

Alex

[Y55-7UT]

so if there is a royal purple in 10w 60, which one would be better on a 100,000km ls1 supercharged, as the castrol doesnt come in L's/quarts, i can get RP in quarts for $12

[Blown 454 AWD]

Hi Steve,

Where can I get the oil filter magnets for the VE LS2 in Melbourne? Are they also available online?

Thanks,

Alex


Alex

I have the magnets for LS series here at Mainlube, just about to do a small special with the engine ones $150 inc gst with free Express Postage freight.

And you're on line now:)

Just PM me for your needs and I'll be happy to help.

I must get my "A" into "G" and get the T56 gearbox magnet bungs made, I have also been asked for a "bung magnet" for the diff with a Harrop Cover fitted as the cover is alloy and big shit to get off to try and find a flat spot to put the normal diff FilterMag inside. (I always regret saying this shit cause then I have to do it:confused:)

Soon as I get some bungs I will move ahead in this area, I have been a bit busy lately, just finished addressing the "Heat and Contamination" issues with the lifts at Sydney Opera House by upgrading the hydraulic oil, coolers and filtration. Now starting to Filtergram the many gearboxes for lifting and revolving the stages.


so if there is a royal purple in 10w 60, which one would be better on a 100,000km ls1 supercharged, as the Castrol doesn't come in L's/quarts, i can get RP in quarts for $12

Whilst I'm not doubting RP is a worthy product, my feed back with this product is not as great as the Edge 10w60, RP is normally a little more expensive so bang for bucks the Edge would have to be up there, if you want to spend more there's always the top of the pile where Mainlube is.

Cheers

Steve

[Wonky]

I asked a well respected tuner/sponsor after being told he recommended a particular product and found out it was CASTROL EDGE SPORT. Will have to check the container tomorrow to see what viscosity as can't remember for sure. Put it in 1,000km ago at the 15,000 service and no complaints so far (not that I drive my car hard enough to tell). :D

Oops! Forgot to check before we went away next day after the above post so just checked now as got home today and it's 25W50. Steve, what difference in protection between Castrol Edge Sport 25W50 I have and the 10W60 you recommend given I don't drive my car hard?

[Deanss-v]

Oops! Forgot to check before we went away next day after the above post so just checked now as got home today and it's 25W50. Steve, what difference in protection between Castrol Edge Sport 25W50 I have and the 10W60 you recommend given I don't drive my car hard?

I would be getting rid of it, specially as it is only rated API SG, when it should have SL/SM in it.

[KCB50L]

Hi all,

Continuing saga.

The Castrol Edge Sport 10w60 is out of the engine. On advice from my holden dealer. Using the 10w60 could have a negative impact on my warrenty due to it being a bit to far from the recommended oil viscosity. So I am back to a 10w30 as per the book. I can't afford to test this therory...

Throughout my experiments I did notice the different behaviour in the oil pressure meter on the dash. The meter showed a higher reading at operating temp than previously. On a steady excelleration it would increase from 4 bars to 5. On idle at the lights it would sit at 3bars instead of 2..

Probably nothing realy in that but something I noticed.

Cheers all,

Phil

Thats the line we use at work, it's shit of course. I use penrite HPR10 witch is 10W50, have done in the last 3 cars I've had and I've never encountered a problem with the engines.

[Wonky]

I would be getting rid of it, specially as it is only rated API SG, when it should have SL/SM in it.

I reckon if it's good enough for Victor Bray and given the tuner who recommended it to me I'll stick with it for now but might look at 10W60 next time.

[Blown 454 AWD]

Oops! Forgot to check before we went away next day after the above post so just checked now as got home today and it's 25W50. Steve, what difference in protection between Castrol Edge Sport 25W50 I have and the 10W60 you recommend given I don't drive my car hard?



Good question Wonky.

Years ago I would've said,"there must be a difference we don't think it would be that great though".

However, now after the introduction of Filtergram I would say there is a definite difference.

A couple of years ago I changed the Maritimo (twins) 8.2 litre V12 N/A 1050 hp @ 8600 rpm on pump gas Lambo's from the 10w60 Synthetic to the 20w50 mineral as they only run 3 to 4 hours between oil changes, the oil is hardly rooted so I thought we'd save a few bucks, the bloody wear metals went through the roof and doubled and when your race motors worth a "couple a hundred" the cost of the oil doesn't matter a fuk.

It makes a difference worth cashing in on on a standard engine, it makes a fuking huge difference to a modified engine as your load literally doubles per square inch per bearing area so you need a lubricant that's at least twice the protection (film strength) to keep the engine from eating it's self.

So next change slip back to the 10w60. (yes with SM as there are advantages in wear and cleanliness)

Cheers

Steve

[Deanss-v]

instead of starting a new tread I'll ask here.
I see you can get all the oils for a ve know except the diff. They say its filled for life, which it wont be for me but they recommended castrol saf carbon mod or carbon mod plus for top up only. What the hell, castrol don't even mention such oil on there web site and i don't know were i can get it. The only oil i can find is from penrite which they say can be used in the ve diff. (sin gear oil 80)

[Blown 454 AWD]

instead of starting a new tread I'll ask here.
I see you can get all the oils for a ve know except the diff. They say its filled for life, which it wont be for me but they recommended castrol saf carbon mod or carbon mod plus for top up only. What the hell, castrol don't even mention such oil on there web site and i don't know were i can get it. The only oil i can find is from penrite which they say can be used in the ve diff. (sin gear oil 80)



Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w140 available in 2 litres for Holden diffs @ $69.51 per litre + gst = $152.92 plus freight.

Filtergram to check @ 5 years.

Cheers

Steve

[Wonky]

Years ago I would've said,"there must be a difference we don't think it would be that great though".

However, now after the introduction of Filtergram I would say there is a definite difference.

A couple of years ago I changed the Maritimo (twins) 8.2 litre V12 N/A 1050 hp @ 8600 rpm on pump gas Lambo's from the 10w60 Synthetic to the 20w50 mineral as they only run 3 to 4 hours between oil changes, the oil is hardly rooted so I thought we'd save a few bucks, the bloody wear metals went through the roof and doubled and when your race motors worth a "couple a hundred" the cost of the oil doesn't matter a fuk.

It makes a difference worth cashing in on on a standard engine, it makes a fuking huge difference to a modified engine as your load literally doubles per square inch per bearing area so you need a lubricant that's at least twice the protection (film strength) to keep the engine from eating it's self.

So next change slip back to the 10w60. (yes with SM as there are advantages in wear and cleanliness)

Cheers

Steve

Excellent explanation thanks Steve! :thumbsup: Will certainly do so in about 5,500 more kms. :)

[BruceSS]

Good question Wonky.


(yes with SM as there are advantages in wear and cleanliness)

Cheers

Steve


Does SM have advantages over SL in terms of friction and cleaning additives?
And when you say about flushing with cheap oil, is 5L enough in the 8.3L sump on the VE?

Any thoughts on Fuchs synthetic?

Thanks
Bruce

[AussieTone]

Any thoughts on Fuchs synthetic?

I have only used Fuchs synthetic in my last 3 x LS powered cars. I have no complaints and find it to be a very reasonably priced quality oil. I will be putting it into the Ute at the 3000km service.

http://http://www.fuchs.com.au/home.asp

[Deanss-v]

Just been having a slow day so was looking at oils again and came across some videos.
For the Castrol Edge fans,
YouTube - Castrol Edge Oil Heat Test (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15v5VsQ98hQ)

YouTube - Castrol Edge Oil cold temperature testing (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFmJh9l4MXw&feature=related)



A older Castrol add, mmmmm engine torture.
YouTube - Sickest Torture Test (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpGYZjpjHPs&feature=related)



And for the Royal purple fan club,

YouTube - Royal Purple Synthetic Oil Explained V8TV (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqvhRi7-iMA&feature=related)



And for the people that dream :jerk:
YouTube - The Worlds 1st Ultra Synthetic Motor Oil (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7BsrWCvAMc&feature=related)
100000 miles on one oil change, well if your stupid or game enough.


Well that should confuse some more people on what oil to use. :D

[Blown 454 AWD]

Does SM have advantages over SL in terms of friction and cleaning additives?
And when you say about flushing with cheap oil, is 5L enough in the 8.3L sump on the VE?

Any thoughts on Fuchs synthetic?

Thanks
Bruce


Yes SM has advantages over SL in both areas.

Yes 5 Litres will do fine, just make sure you pick up oil pressure on start up.

Haven't had any experience with Fuchs.

Cheers

Steve

[jonnyd1986]

On the last service, from Holden, I got them to put in Red Line's SAE 10W40 in my VE SS-V (Recommended by Red Line). It feels smother thoughout the rev range and more torquey and there is no lifter noise on startup compared to the Penrite's SIN oil (Having not been driven for a week in between with both oils.). The oil pressure metre reads 1 more under load and idling then the Penrite's SIN oil. I think it reads 3 idling and 4 under load.

I also had the diff oil changed to a Red Line product (No problem with warranty). I wanted to put the Red Line Super Light Shock Proof Oil (Yellow) in my manual gearbox but Holden said it might void my warranty so haven’t done it yet (Also recommend by Red Line)

What are people's thoughts? I think ill just put it in.

Jon

[Mick66]

G'Day jonnyd, Looking at doing the gearbox and diff oils in the VE too. What redline product did you use in your diff?

[HEXEM]

I have noticed the new 2008 V8 range VEs have the recommended Oil Viscosity stamped into the engine oil cap (I am not sure when holden started placing this on the oil cap). The new recommendation is 5w30. I have spoken to Holden Assistance and they have refered my query to Holden TAS for comment as to whether older VE V8s need to change their oil viscosity from 10w30 to the new 5w30. They said they will get back to me within 24hrs.

If this is the case you might want to check with your servicing dealer what oil (at 5w30) they are putting in it and what the cost will be. I know some dealers are charging $18 per ltr for Castrol Edge Sport 5w30. This may impact the cost of your service (you might like to supply your own oil). BTW castrol edge 5w30 sells for around $51 during off sales times and $40 during sale times at Supercheap Auto...

[CalaisRider]

I have noticed the new 2008 V8 range VEs have the recommended Oil Viscosity stamped into the engine oil cap (I am not sure when holden started placing this on the oil cap). The new recommendation is 5w30. I have spoken to Holden Assistance and they have refered my query to Holden TAS for comment as to whether older VE V8s need to change their oil viscosity from 10w30 to the new 5w30. They said they will get back to me within 24hrs.

If this is the case you might want to check with your servicing dealer what oil (at 5w30) they are putting in it and what the cost will be. I know some dealers are charging $18 per ltr for Castrol Edge Sport 5w30. This may impact the cost of your service (you might like to supply your own oil). BTW castrol edge 5w30 sells for around $51 during off sales times and $40 during sale times at Supercheap Auto...

:)

Umm, not an expert but can going 20/50 or 20/60 do any damage to the L98, given Holden's recommendation abovementioned. I run mine hard lots and currently use 20/60 Castrol Edge but am considering changing to Royal Purple Racing Oil 51 in 20/50 weight.

Last week I had a Holden service and imho the light weight oil is noticably noisier in the valve train department.

[HYMEY]

I was reading the Penzoil 25w50 SG rated oils have the highest ratings of zddp. And that the road legal SJ in US has lower amounts. Nothing wrong with a SG oil.

[Wonky]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but just wondering what people's opinions are (especially Steve if he sees it) on Castrol Edge 0w40 compared to Edge 10w60? I was talking to someone who went from the Edge 10w60 to Edge 0w40 and feels the motor seems to rev a little more freely which seemed to be borne out on the dyno when he picked up 3 or 4 kw.

Given my limited knowledge of oils I can sort of see how that could happen, but what about the relative protection qualities of each comparatively?

[holdenfreak]

Once again, another vote for Castrol 10-60, have used it in the last 3 services, with a flush at each interval, no problems to report.

[Blown 454 AWD]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but just wondering what people's opinions are (especially Steve if he sees it) on Castrol Edge 0w40 compared to Edge 10w60? I was talking to someone who went from the Edge 10w60 to Edge 0w40 and feels the motor seems to rev a little more freely which seemed to be borne out on the dyno when he picked up 3 or 4 kw.

Given my limited knowledge of oils I can sort of see how that could happen, but what about the relative protection qualities of each comparatively?


Wonky

I believe it would be the most expensive 3 to 4 kW he's ever picked up when it come to longevity with his motor.

Would've loved to Filtergram both oils at 5000 klms, I'd cure everyone of "running the gauntlet" forever :)

Cheers

Steve







A manufactures job is to supply you with a component and guide you how to
service it so lasts long enough for you to be happy with the money you spent.

Mainlube's job is to try and make that component last twice as long or in most cases, longer.


Mainlube Superior Maintenance Lubricants Pty Ltd
Mainlube 175 Synthetic Race Oil SAE 10w60 (engine)
Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w90 (gearbox)
Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w140 (diff)

www.Mainlube.com.au

[Alex(AUS)]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but just wondering what people's opinions are (especially Steve if he sees it) on Castrol Edge 0w40 compared to Edge 10w60? I was talking to someone who went from the Edge 10w60 to Edge 0w40 and feels the motor seems to rev a little more freely which seemed to be borne out on the dyno when he picked up 3 or 4 kw.

Given my limited knowledge of oils I can sort of see how that could happen, but what about the relative protection qualities of each comparatively?

Gary,

I have tried 0-40 in my previous car (I currently use 10-60 in the Senator). You can definately feel the difference with 0-40 without any doubt. It certainly feels like more than 4rwkw ... I really doubt you could feel 4rwkw. Also, Castrol openly advertise their 0-40 as their very best oil. However, what Steve is saying is also true ...

Alex

[Wonky]

So, the 0w40 may give a little more power due to being thinner but for someone planning to keep their car for a fair while it's not worth sacrificing the extra protection of the 10w60? Would that be a fair summation? :confused:

[Alex(AUS)]

So, the 0w40 may give a little more power due to being thinner but for someone planning to keep their car for a fair while it's not worth sacrificing the extra protection of the 10w60? Would that be a fair summation? :confused:

There is kind of a contradiction for sure ... I mean you would make more power as a result of less friction not more ... perhaps the 60 produces less friction but is heaver to move around????

Alex

[Blown 454 AWD]

There is kind of a contradiction for sure ... I mean you would make more power as a result of less friction not more ... perhaps the 60 produces less friction but is heaver to move around????

Alex


Quite correct Alex.

Its called fluid friction.

The little sludge pumps I've run at Northead Sewage Treatment Station Manly for 16 years (Armatures in the motors weigh 40 tons, motor and pump is 3 stories high, the top pumps (4 out of 6 with another 4 smaller ones in the lane cove storage tunnel) pump 4000 litres per second up a 1,3 metre pipe with a 25 meter head) the top bearings ran a SAE 20 hydraulic oil (The pump manufactures book says to!! * WRONG * )

Being a tapered roller bearing they have "scrub" on the end of the rollers the engineering book says they must have an E P Gear Oil.

So we changed them to a Synthetic 75w90 E P Gear Oil (same thickness as a SAE 30 hydraulic oil) and doubled the life of the bearings (its 6 figures to pull one of these out so significant savings)

We then when to a SAE 90 (more film strength, less metal tough again) so less wear again. (checking with Filtergram we can tell with 3 months)

So to run the gauntlet completely (as Mainlube does) and find how much is "too far", we tried a SAE 140 E P Gear Oil and the (water cooled) bearings built 7C extra temp. This was because of fluid friction (which doesn't cause wear) but can produce slight drag and bring the temp up by trying to shear the lubricant.

So we went back to the SAE 90 for the best protection with out building temps and without upsetting the lubricant. :)

Component designers don't get this "real-time"type of R & D Mainlube gets in the field, theirs is all text book stuff, the book isn't always right when it's put into practice.

We aren't going to those extremes here however, this explains a little about fluid friction. The 0W40 will have less fluid friction however, it will allow more touch (which is (machining metal) friction caused by less film strength) hence more wear. I would rather loose a little with fluid friction than try and gain a little with a lighter viscosity but receive more wear.

Of course this changes dramatically when you double the kW as you have modified the power without modifying the protection. Without viscosity increase with more power, wear is dramatically increased. The bearing surfaces are a certain size to cope with the power the engine makes. The bigger the power, the bigger the engine to take the load (usually unless us hoons ring another 50 kW (upwards) out of it)

Many people who use our 10w60 have said to me the felt more power (and they changed from a lighter viscosity) so quality of oil and additive technology can compensate allot for this "fluid friction" and still receive the best protection.

Its that old story, you get what you pay for.


10w60 has more film strength therefore less wear over a 0w40, if you loose a couple of kW's, that's the small trade off for machinery longevity.

Hope that explains this area a little


Cheers

Steve






A manufactures job is to supply you with a component and guide you how to
service it so lasts long enough for you to be happy with the money you spent.

Mainlube's job is to try and make that component last twice as long or in most cases, longer.


Mainlube Superior Maintenance Lubricants Pty Ltd
Mainlube 175 Synthetic Race Oil SAE 10w60 (engine)
Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w90 (gearbox)
Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w140 (diff)

www.Mainlube.com.au

[Alex(AUS)]

Quite correct Alex.

Its called fluid friction.

The little sludge pumps I've run at Northead Sewage Treatment Station Manly for 16 years (Armatures in the motors weigh 40 tons, motor and pump is 3 stories high, the top pumps (4 out of 6 with another 4 smaller ones in the lane cove storage tunnel) pump 4000 litres per second up a 1,3 metre pipe with a 25 meter head) the top bearings ran a SAE 20 hydraulic oil (The pump manufactures book says to!! * WRONG * )

Being a tapered roller bearing they have "scrub" on the end of the rollers the engineering book says they must have an E P Gear Oil.

So we changed them to a Synthetic 75w90 E P Gear Oil (same thickness as a SAE 30 hydraulic oil) and doubled the life of the bearings (its 6 figures to pull one of these out so significant savings)

We then when to a SAE 90 (more film strength, less metal tough again) so less wear again. (checking with Filtergram we can tell with 3 months)

So to run the gauntlet completely (as Mainlube does) and find how much is "too far", we tried a SAE 140 E P Gear Oil and the (water cooled) bearings built 7C extra temp. This was because of fluid friction (which doesn't cause wear) but can produce slight drag and bring the temp up by trying to shear the lubricant.

So we went back to the SAE 90 for the best protection with out building temps and without upsetting the lubricant. :)

Component designers don't get this "real-time"type of R & D Mainlube gets in the field, theirs is all text book stuff, the book isn't always right when it's put into practice.

We aren't going to those extremes here however, this explains a little about fluid friction. The 0W40 will have less fluid friction however, it will allow more touch (which is (machining metal) friction caused by less film strength) hence more wear. I would rather loose a little with fluid friction than try and gain a little with a lighter viscosity but receive more wear.

Of course this changes dramatically when you double the kW as you have modified the power without modifying the protection. Without viscosity increase with more power, wear is dramatically increased. The bearing surfaces are a certain size to cope with the power the engine makes. The bigger the power, the bigger the engine to take the load (usually unless us hoons ring another 50 kW (upwards) out of it)

Many people who use our 10w60 have said to me the felt more power (and they changed from a lighter viscosity) so quality of oil and additive technology can compensate allot for this "fluid friction" and still receive the best protection.

Its that old story, you get what you pay for.


10w60 has more film strength therefore less wear over a 0w40, if you loose a couple of kW's, that's the small trade off for machinery longevity.

Hope that explains this area a little


Cheers

Steve






A manufactures job is to supply you with a component and guide you how to
service it so lasts long enough for you to be happy with the money you spent.

Mainlube's job is to try and make that component last twice as long or in most cases, longer.


Mainlube Superior Maintenance Lubricants Pty Ltd
Mainlube 175 Synthetic Race Oil SAE 10w60 (engine)
Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w90 (gearbox)
Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w140 (diff)

www.Mainlube.com.au

Thank you for taking the time to explain that Steve.

Alex

[Wonky]

Thank you for taking the time to explain that Steve.

Alex

+ 1! :goodjob: Looks like it's 10w60 for me after all! Thanks Steve!

Next question - is the 3,000km inspection too early to change to a full synthetic like Edge 10w/60? Should I leave the factory "run-in" oil in for another few thousand kms or change it now to a good non-synthetic? If good non-synthetic what would you recommend that is not prohibitively expensive?

[boyley]

+ 1! :goodjob: Looks like it's 10w60 for me after all! Thanks Steve!

Next question - is the 3,000km inspection too early to change to a full synthetic like Edge 10w/60? Should I leave the factory "run-in" oil in for another few thousand kms or change it now to a good non-synthetic? If good non-synthetic what would you recommend that is not prohibitively expensive?

Wonky I changed to 10w-60 at 7500km's which as you know is twice the recommended service interval. I would nt think doing it at 3000k's would make much difference though.

[Blown 454 AWD]

+ 1! :goodjob: Looks like it's 10w60 for me after all! Thanks Steve!

Next question - is the 3,000km inspection too early to change to a full synthetic like Edge 10w/60? Should I leave the factory "run-in" oil in for another few thousand kms or change it now to a good non-synthetic? If good non-synthetic what would you recommend that is not prohibitively expensive?

If it was going to glaze the bore and burn oil it would've done this way before 1000 klms.

If you feel she's "loose enough" at 3000 klms (as from here on in she's actually wearing out) fell free to change.

My new engine is about to be tuned in the next few weeks, this will be done on the dyno with mineral oil in it, it will be pulled on pretty hard, biggest attention is NOT let her get hot (don't want to see 100C) after the dyno runs (probably few of them) flush, new filter and in with the 10w60.

As for as I'm concerned the dyno runs will determine the major amount of the "bed in" process, the rest is up to me NOT to pussy her too much. (which could be fukin scary)

The first 3000 klms you should keep the boot into here a fair bit, not thrashing, not labouring, but under load, varying the revs and not letting things get too hot.

(and this thread is about engine oil, not my motor, you will have to wait for the debut, so don't ask) :)


Cheers

Steve




A manufactures job is to supply you with a component and guide you how to
service it so lasts long enough for you to be happy with the money you spent.

Mainlube's job is to try and make that component last twice as long or in most cases, longer.


Mainlube Superior Maintenance Lubricants Pty Ltd
Mainlube 175 Synthetic Race Oil SAE 10w60 (engine)
Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w90 (gearbox)
Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w140 (diff)

www.Mainlube.com.au

[WildBHaviour]

Hi LS1'ers

Just a question.
My VE SS is due for a 45'000 service.
My local Dealer uses Shell Heilix, not sure what blend or thickness.
Is this oil Good to keep using or should i get myself some Castrol Edge Sport 10/60.
I do most of my driving in city so stop/start for 30min to work and 30min home.
As i have read the Castrol Edge is some good stuff.
Any Recommendations??

[KCB50L]

I have stopped using the thicker oils in my LS1, have gone to using castrol edge 5w30 (have used this for the last 4 services now) did a complete system flush with nulon and 5w30 (you should have seen the black shit come out of the engine) engine is purring like a kitten, no noise at all (apart from the normal bit of piston slap on cold start-up, but that's gone within a minute) and seems to run smoother.

[Tre-Cool]

I run a diesel/petrol based oil in my ve, my dad runs it in his gas v8 VU it obviously has alot of additives but i noticed straight away the car idles much smoother.

Oil pressure is showing just below the 3 on the electric guage so almost 30psi at idle (800rpm).

[EXCESSV]

In my VE i use

Penrite HPR 10 in winter 10w50
Penrite HPR 30 in summer 20w60 - thicker in the summer for the extra protection due to higher heat levels

change oil every 7000-8000km

[popeye3dr]

Well i'm having my ute serviced on monday so bought the Castrol 10w60 and going to give that a go, if i dont like it i'm going to drop it and go back to the Royal Purple. Or i might even try the vavoline 10w50 as i always used to like using that oil and never been a fan of the Castrol

[alto]

What are you guys paying per 5L of Castrol Edge Sport 10/60?

[boyley]

What are you guys paying per 5L of Castrol Edge Sport 10/60?

around $40


I run a diesel/petrol based oil in my ve, my dad runs it in his gas v8 VU it obviously has alot of additives but i noticed straight away the car idles much smoother.

Oil pressure is showing just below the 3 on the electric guage so almost 30psi at idle (800rpm).

Interesting can you advise which brand please TC

[Wonky]

around $40

:shock: Where from? I'm sure the last lot I got was around $70! Big difference when you need two!

[boyley]

:shock: Where from? I'm sure the last lot I got was around $70! Big difference when you need two!

Youre right Wonks (again:vpo:) lol:rofl: I paid $69.95 for 5 litres it was the nulon I used to pay $40 for.:goodjob:

[vecommo]

When I bought my WK it ran as quiet as a mouse. The previous owner always had it dealership serviced so it was filled with whatever oil they use.
When it came time to change the oil I used Mobil 1 5w50 (as they didn't have any 10w30 left) and all of a sudden, to my disgust, it started to sound like a diesel, so much so that I was stressing that I may have bought a dud.
I changed the oil just last week after 5000km but this time I used Castrol Edge 5w30, and suprise suprise, it's back to normal, quiet as a mouse and running like a swiss watch.
From what I understand a thicker oil is supposed to make your engine quieter, not noisier.... so I'm assuming it's a Mobil 1 thing?
This has kind of turned me off using Mobil 1 again. I'll see how I go with the Castrol... I was going to use Penrite but found that they didn't have much of a synthetic range and they had all sorts of various viscosities except the one specified for an Ls1 (I prefer to go by the book).

[Wonky]

Did it mainly sound noisy when cold? The 5w50 is thinner when cold than 10w30.

[vecommo]

Did it mainly sound noisy when cold? The 5w50 is thinner when cold than 10w30.

It was significantly noisier with the Mobil 1 even when hot after a long trip, thats what had me really worried that my engine was a dud.
With the Castrol I'm using now I still get some noise on startup but once it reaches operating temp it virtually disappears.

[Wonky]

At least the engine is OK after all. :)

[saaz]

I have been using the Mobil 1 5W-50 in a stock WL 5.7 with no issues at all. Early on from 13K to 40K or so the Mobil 1 10W-30 was used, but since then only the 5W-50 (before then it was a Holden car that went between a few dealers, so who knows what went in it). At near 100k runs better than ever, in fact oil usage by the drop on the dipstick in 10K oil change intervals is now less than ever. Maybe it is just run in?

[spinr33]

I see all u guys are recommending 10w/60, coming from a small engine background for over 7 years and now at autobarn having various cars etc their really isnt any substiutute for a full synthetic oil, however as the other guy said it may be a better idea to run a 10w/60 etc better film strength etc but in real world terms how many more real world km's are u going to get out of the engine?? another what 50 000kms??
Ive had alot of different tests and going from a 15w/40 to a 0w30 gained literally a 10hp gain on the dyno not actually noticeable but their all the same.
I just wonder if maybe u guys are thinking that using thin oil is actual going to make the engine fail prematurely which i dont think is the case at all, ive used most of the what u call premium engine oils redline,penrite full syn,motul,lucas full syn. Having seen alot of motorbikes pulled apart u tend to recognise that its more the amount of oil changes rather then even the quality of oil used that determines failures of components.
This is just what ive found in real world conditions so in contrast to that any high quality full synthetic oil changed reguarly wont have an impact on the life of any performance engine this is more visible in high reving high wear things like motorbikes which literally wear out year to year so u can see the effects and carnt really argue with the facts u see.
Neways in wraping up i give motul 5w/40 the thumbs up or if u want to save abit lucas 5w/40 full synthetic is good and reasonably priced my 2 cents thanks rory.

[Tre-Cool]

around $40



Interesting can you advise which brand please TC
It's from Fuch's (spelling?) they use it for the CAT dozers etc at the local landfill and i only change oil/filter every 10K km's and the car sees plenty of 7000+ rpm loving. Probably drop it down a bit once the blower is on though.

In my ute i have ran magnatec to penrite sin 5/60 etc and found no difference in performance or general engine maintenance.

[Blown 454 AWD]

This an't rocket science guys, it's nuts and bolts shit!

If you modify your power, you must modify your protection, end of conversation !!!

We modify the engine, it goes faster.

Next we root the tranny, so we get a built Tranny, or in my case after rooting 1 standard Tranny, 3 built Trannys in the first 10,000 klms, enter 4L80e, game over.

We snap axles, so we put big fat fukers in, fixes it.

Back to the motor, the piston, crank etc is built to take a certain loading per squire inch and the oils film strength is designed should cope with that. (with very normal driving)

Whoops, we just doubled the power, now those components weren't designed for that, so we build a race motor (if we're good), the only thing you haven't changed is the film strength of the oil. (even worse if you don't build a race motor)

You just have to see a Filtergram of a 1000 hp engine, even my 10w60 can't stop all the metal from being made, drop it back to a 20w50 (same race oil just lighter viscosity) and 1000 hp immeadiatley doubles the metal being made.

10w60 is only 22 - 25 cSt @100C (around SAE 6) your 10w40 is 14 cSt @ 100C (about SAE 4) so our 10w60 is not much thicker at running temps however, make all the difference to the wear (with any modification)

Over the years so many say, "I ran XXXX and had a great run" which I don't doubt (don't know what you thought you should see without testing) , but this is fine in a normal situation, but if you modify or give her constant stick, the better viscosity will make it last longer.

On the Mainlube web site in the Performance area there are 2 Filtergrams from a Cross8 then ran 2 different manufactures oils of the same viscosity in the same job back to back and there was a difference.

I must put some more up I have Filtergrams from Peter Brock's 05 427 (from the actual 24 hr race) running light viscosities, they are serious shit, also Tuna's R8 TT on my 10w60 so more to come there.

Film strength reduces wear, if you modify your power, you must modify the protection.


----------------------------------------


Now to take the Fluid Friction thing (I posted back in this thread) to the next stage.

I have seen inside engines that have run extreme quality big viscosity oils for 30 to 50,000 klm, the wear faces instead of being a smooth satin finish (like normal) they have an extremely smooth chrome like finish. This is the "water over the stones in the creek" princable (they get bloody slippery don't they).

If you can stop most of the "touch" in a machine by using these greater protection products, the machine just seems to run smoother and more lively. As we smooth out the metal surfaces (with fluid) it lessens the fluid friction which only happens because of drag of the fluid across the metal surface.

So over the past 30 years I've had many people say to me, "it just keeps going better and better" and this happens by smoothing out the inside of the drive faces which can be seen when the machine is apart. (which is another nuts and bolts thing) the smoother it is the less friction there is.

We've been doing this to our inlet and exhaust ports to get the air slide in and out faster for years.

This just take quite a while to happen (it won't happen over night, but it will happen) :)

We have found that in the long run, the fluid friction disappears and you get the best of both worlds.

And if a heavier viscosity makes your engine nosier, then your motors dirty and possibly restricting flow when cold, I've never seen a 10w60 make a newish motor under 20,000 klms noisy.

Cheers

Steve





A manufactures job is to supply you with a component and guide you how to
service it so lasts long enough for you to be happy with the money you spent.

Mainlube's job is to try and make that component last twice as long or in most cases, longer.


Mainlube Superior Maintenance Lubricants Pty Ltd
Mainlube 175 Synthetic Race Oil SAE 10w60 (engine)
Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w90 (gearbox)
Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w140 (diff)

www.Mainlube.com.au

[BLACKVE]

I've run magnatec in all my past ls1's and now in both L98's, change oil and filter every 5000km's.

My VY clubsport from a few years ago had Mobil 1(like baby oil to me to thin) and piston slap noise was horrible when cold, heaps better on magnatec.

My VE SS ute just had a cam installled at 3800km's and first thing i really noticed was valve train noise(apart from extra power:rofl:), as wonky posted earlyier later VE's have 5w 30w on oil cap, after a oil and filter change to magnatec 10w 40 (piece of mind after cam install) valve train noise a lot better same as my sedan. Normally get this for around $30 for 5L(last batch was $28 so bought 4)

How long are people running there castrol edge 10w 60 for 5000/10000km's?????? I noticed that my ute factory oil was very black for only 3800km's

Cheers Paul

[Alex(AUS)]

I've run magnatec in all my past ls1's and now in both L98's, change oil and filter every 5000km's.

My VY clubsport from a few years ago had Mobil 1(like baby oil to me to thin) and piston slap noise was horrible when cold, heaps better on magnatec.

My VE SS ute just had a cam installled at 3800km's and first thing i really noticed was valve train noise(apart from extra power:rofl:), as wonky posted earlyier later VE's have 5w 30w on oil cap, after a oil and filter change to magnatec 10w 40 (piece of mind after cam install) valve train noise a lot better same as my sedan. Normally get this for around $30 for 5L(last batch was $28 so bought 4)

How long are people running there castrol edge 10w 60 for 5000/10000km's?????? I noticed that my ute factory oil was very black for only 3800km's

Cheers Paul

Many people report that Magnatec is good ... so I am sure it is. I have used it myself (in my wife's car) and it seems to be ok. Though, I would assume that Castrol put everything in magnatec and more in the Edge ...

Alex

[SirNemesis]

So is Edge 10w60 still the choice for a brand new engine, or should a mineral oil be used to aid break-in? I've been using 10w60 on my LS1 without dramas, but now that I have a brand new L76 I would like to know whats best to break it in with.

[Blown 454 AWD]

So is Edge 10w60 still the choice for a brand new engine, or should a mineral oil be used to aid break-in? I've been using 10w60 on my LS1 without dramas, but now that I have a brand new L76 I would like to know whats best to break it in with.

Mineral for the first 0 to 3000 klm, first change at 1000 klms.

You could change to synthetic 10w60 at 1000 klms (I would) if the oil level hasn't budged on the dipstick indicating bedding in has happened, the rest is just loosening up which can take up to 10,000 klms.

I note Edge 10w60 says on their spec sheet they don't advise Synthetic 10w60 before 3000 klms and mineral should be used before this so they are playing it safe.

If you use your head and use above as a guide I can't see you having any worries.

Cheers

Steve





If you modify your power, you should modify your protection and run a 10w60.


A manufactures job is to supply you with a component and guide you how to
service it so lasts long enough for you to be happy with the money you spent.

Mainlube's job is to try and make that component last twice as long or in most cases, longer.


Mainlube Superior Maintenance Lubricants Pty Ltd
Mainlube 175 Synthetic Race Oil SAE 10w60 (engine)
Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w90 (gearbox)
Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w140 (diff)

www.Mainlube.com.au

[fastestls7]

what your thoughts on vavoline 25w 60

[popeye3dr]

what your thoughts on vavoline 25w 60
25w60 is to think, but the valoline 10w50 was my next choice
Well i had my service done on the ute yesterday and got them to put the castrol 10w60 in, and i agree it defo make the engine less noisy and mine wasn't even noisy to being with being a late 05 VZ.
On a side note, i usually take my car to Sam's for it service and what not's, but there's a local garage to me that i take the magna to for any work that needs doing and have been very happy with the work they do and price they charge, so if any guys on the northern beaches are just looking for a simple service on there car i recommend Goodspanner in Brookvale on the northern beaches

[WildBHaviour]

just did the 40k service to me ve ss at local Holden dealer a week ago and have noticed my engine making more noise than usual???
It sounds like the lifters are ticking pretty loud. Never used to do this before all i could hear was the belts rotating around the engine.
anyway i bought some nulon engine oil additive to quieten the lifters down and it worked but you can still hear them ticking.
Now my question is could it be the new oil inst good enough or do i have an oil pressure problem and not enough oil is going to the lifters????

[fastestls7]

could be either. oil related problems are slowly coming out of the wood works with the L98

[Wonky]

just did the 40k service to me ve ss at local Holden dealer a week ago and have noticed my engine making more noise than usual???
It sounds like the lifters are ticking pretty loud. Never used to do this before all i could hear was the belts rotating around the engine.
anyway i bought some nulon engine oil additive to quieten the lifters down and it worked but you can still hear them ticking.
Now my question is could it be the new oil inst good enough or do i have an oil pressure problem and not enough oil is going to the lifters????

They possibly used different oil than previously. If so I have read on here that given the different additives in oils it can take a few hundred km for your engine to 'adjust to' the different additives. Sounds :weirdo: when I re-read it but it's what I read on here and I'm pretty sure it was written by one of the few who really know their stuff on oils.

[Francis knight0]

I've always like Pentrie HPR5 and 10. I'm supprised to see it's not very popular here.

Penrite still load there oil with Zinc while Castrol have taken so much out to comply with strick standards.

I found that Penrites HPR5 is a strong 5w 40. Flows well cold and more beefer as a 40 then the likes of Casotrl 0w 40.

Anyone ever have issues with it they can share?

The other issue is the Holden Book tells you to only use a 5w30, so whats the go if you use say Castrol 10w 60? If you had an engine problem would Holden use this to get out of the repair bill?

[Paull SSV Ute]

If you can find a distributor, use ULX-110 10/30. Mineral based oil which I have found is excellent. Have always used in petrol engines as well as my F250 diesel I previously had (diesel oil of course) The diesel oil has a Mack truck approved 60,000km change interval. But back to the petrol oil, I have just dropped the crap out holden use after 900km and put the ULX-110 in.

[Francis knight0]

So Penrite not a fav here?

Hey any thoughts on PENZOIL products?

[holdenhsv]

Hi there, i have a 2008 ve calais v 6ltr done only 8000 kms. I am thinking to change the engine oil but holden recommends on 15000 kms. so what you guys think of amsoil 5w30 or royal purple 5w30 and is it ok to change the oil before 15000 kms

[bouka]

Used Castrol Edge 0/40 at last change and not very happy with it. Won't be using it again. Have used heaps of different oils in LS1's, LS2's and now an LS3 and can't say i have a favourite.

Change as regularly as you like, the more often the better. Each person has a favourite and they all seem to differ. Steve from Mainlube recommends the 10/60 and i have used it in the past. He knows his stuff.

Find one you are happy with and stick to it. Sounds like vague advice but in my experience it is the best i have to offer after having tried so many.

[holdenhsv]

has anyone used amsoil 5w30 on their l98 engine was talking to Harold from www.performancelub.com and he recommends amsoil or royalpurple 5w30

[XUV]

They put GF3 10w30 in mine at the last service ( 50,000 km ) - never heard of it .

[AussieTone]

They possibly used different oil than previously. If so I have read on here that given the different additives in oils it can take a few hundred km for your engine to 'adjust to' the different additives. Sounds :weirdo: when I re-read it but it's what I read on here and I'm pretty sure it was written by one of the few who really know their stuff on oils.

Gary

I have used Fuchs Super GTO (10 - 30) at 3000km and 7500 kms in the Ute but got caught short for my 15000 service last week and didn't pick any up in time. I bought some Castrol Magnatec (10 - 40) and I am geting noises I have never had before. I was going to just drain the Magnatec and replace it with Fuchs but given what you have said do you think I should just stick with what is in it now. :confused:

[Wonky]

Gary

I have used Fuchs Super GTO (10 - 30) at 3000km and 7500 kms in the Ute but got caught short for my 15000 service last week and didn't pick any up in time. I bought some Castrol Magnatec (10 - 40) and I am geting noises I have never had before. I was going to just drain the Magnatec and replace it with Fuchs but given what you have said do you think I should just stick with what is in it now. :confused:

Will be very interesting to see if it does Tony as I'm only going on what I've read on here, not first hand experience. From memory they said 800 - 1,000km should be enough to tell for sure.

[holdenhsv]

hi there again, so has anyone had used amsoil oil or royal purple 5w30 on their ve v8s

[Alister]

Not 5w30 but I used 10w40 Royal Purple in a 140 000km old LS1. No worries at all - no leaks, tappet noise was barely noticable on cold start etc.

[PESSV]

Castrol Magnatec 10w 40 went in mine last time. Not overly impressed. It is noisier when it's hot and the pressures hot and cold could be better. Sounds like a 10w 60 is the go next time.

[Francis knight0]

I found Penrite HPR5 to give better high temp pressure.

[HEXEM]

Just curious,

Who out there is using the Mobil1 5w50 in there L98 SS or LS2/3 HSV?

I know a couple of people using it. Like to get some feedback if I could.. Some of the other threads only talk about it in a GEN3 engine.

Cheers People,,,..

[ttrevs1]

I noticed nobody posted this up yet
Engine Oil Tests * - Motorswaps (http://www.motorswaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=432)

a very good comparo of oils and quite supprizing,

Regards
Trev

[Alister]

I noticed nobody posted this up yet
http://www.motorswaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=432

a very good comparo of oils and quite supprizing,

Regards
Trev

Can't believe people are still linking that article...
Look here, the editor got shut down on their testing machine and methods.

http://forums.noria.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/616604995/m/8381065241

The machine used for the test is meant to test grease, not oil.

[ttrevs1]

Why dont ppl go here then to ask about oils hehe,

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

I dont believe there is a better forum in which to discuss oils


Trev

P.s the reply in which u linked to was answered by a redline rep , read into that what you will :)



Can't believe people are still linking that article...
Look here, the editor got shut down on their testing machine and methods.

http://forums.noria.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/616604995/m/8381065241

The machine used for the test is meant to test grease, not oil.

[Alister]

SC did admit in a later issue they testing method was critically flawed so I wouldn't be too concerned with the results. Interesting testing method though.

[Francis knight0]

what your thoughts on vavoline 25w 60

Just thought you might be interested to know. I once spoke with an engine builder at one of the Holden V8 supercar teams. They use this oil and their cams come out with less ware then the team using mobil 1.

Does anyone have any things to say about:

Caltex Havoline oil

Valvoline Syn oil

[dawkinsdisciple]

BIT OFF TOPIC... GOING TO DO AN OIL change in the SSV, saw the bash plate, scared off, how hard is it?
easy step guide anyone?

[Quinn]

Hey i just bought some valvoline 5w40 from supercheap 20 bucks cheaper than normal seemed like a good deal. Any of you guys use it? any associated problems with it? Thanks guys.

[Blown 454 AWD]

When running a 20w50 in a race engines in race conditions (1000 hp Lambo's) our own R & D in house testing Filtergram has shown a 10w60 has a dramatic reduction in metal production. (less touch)

This means less metal circulating with the oil flow, hence less damage to the engine via erosion.

Cheers

Steve

[Quinn]

So go get a refund on the syn power and get 10w60 edge, i've just been using 10w40 magnatec every 7,500 but think its time to use full synthetic.

[Blown 454 AWD]

BIT OFF TOPIC... GOING TO DO AN OIL change in the SSV, saw the bash plate, scared off, how hard is it?
easy step guide anyone?






Instructions in the Mainlube Forum area in the HOW TO FLUSH post

Cheers

Steve

[TTR308]

Hi guys,
I have a VE SS '06, and have owned it since new. One year ago I decided to use Mobile 1. I have always used the oil the dealership use (???? - some form of castrol). After using the Mobil I didn't know what all the fuss was about. So, next oil change I was recommended to use a semi-synthetic or go full synthetic but a slightly cheaper version. I had Castrol Edge Sport 5w 30 go in. Let me tell you guys..... DON'T USE IT !!!

My car sounded like someone had dropped a bag of marbles in engine upon cold start-up.

I initially thought that a pulley bearing had collapsed but it was too coincidental to happen when it did. Cold morning starts sounded like a diesel engine. So I decided to search the net for a solution. Thanks to this forum and based on 'Steve's' advice, my car went in for an oil change - Castrol Edge Sport 10w 60.
Guess what....... yep, NO MORE CLUNKING NOISE ON COLD STARTS.

Thanks to all, especially Steve. Next oil change might well be Mainlube.

Now for a question....
Should I also use an addative like Nulon as a security measure incase damage has been done???
The car goes great to be honest with no faults whatsoever since new......."touch wood".

Cheers boys
Tony

[VX2VESS]

Hi guys,
I have a VE SS '06, and have owned it since new. One year ago I decided to use Mobile 1. I have always used the oil the dealership use (???? - some form of castrol). After using the Mobil I didn't know what all the fuss was about. So, next oil change I was recommended to use a semi-synthetic or go full synthetic but a slightly cheaper version. I had Castrol Edge Sport 5w 30 go in. Let me tell you guys..... DON'T USE IT !!!

My car sounded like someone had dropped a bag of marbles in engine upon cold start-up.

I initially thought that a pulley bearing had collapsed but it was too coincidental to happen when it did. Cold morning starts sounded like a diesel engine. So I decided to search the net for a solution. Thanks to this forum and based on 'Steve's' advice, my car went in for an oil change - Castrol Edge Sport 10w 60.
Guess what....... yep, NO MORE CLUNKING NOISE ON COLD STARTS.

Thanks to all, especially Steve. Next oil change might well be Mainlube.

Now for a question....
Should I also use an addative like Nulon as a security measure incase damage has been done???
The car goes great to be honest with no faults whatsoever since new......."touch wood".

Cheers boys
Tony

i'd check your oil pressure must be on the low side 5 /30 isn't much thinner than stock oil 10/30. Thin oil will drop your pressure further if low

[Blown 454 AWD]

Hi guys,
I have a VE SS '06, and have owned it since new. One year ago I decided to use Mobile 1. I have always used the oil the dealership use (???? - some form of Castrol). After using the Mobil I didn't know what all the fuss was about. So, next oil change I was recommended to use a semi-synthetic or go full synthetic but a slightly cheaper version. I had Castrol Edge Sport 5w 30 go in. Let me tell you guys..... DON'T USE IT !!!

My car sounded like someone had dropped a bag of marbles in engine upon cold start-up.

I initially thought that a pulley bearing had collapsed but it was too coincidental to happen when it did. Cold morning starts sounded like a diesel engine. So I decided to search the net for a solution. Thanks to this forum and based on 'Steve's' advice, my car went in for an oil change - Castrol Edge Sport 10w 60.
Guess what....... yep, NO MORE CLUNKING NOISE ON COLD STARTS.

Thanks to all, especially Steve. Next oil change might well be Mainlube.

Now for a question....
Should I also use an additive like Nulon as a security measure in case damage has been done???
The car goes great to be honest with no faults whatsoever since new......."touch wood".

Cheers boys
Tony


Tony

Good to see you're using the correct protection for a big engine.

If you'd damaged you engine significantly enough to worry I believe you would see symptoms so all is good.

One should be cautious when adding extra additives to a 10w60, if the additive is worth having it should have a bucket of V.I. in it.

An additive with high V.I., when added to a 10w60 would usually end up as a 20w70, not something I would run unless I was racing a big purpose built engine with huge race clearances.

So you're doing fine now.

Cheers

Steve

[TTR308]

Thanks vt2vx and Steve.
Take care.
Tony

[amckiwi]

Repco Catologue currently has Castrol Edge 10W 60 at $49.99 for 5L

Will be getting some ASAP

Stu

[giv_me_V8]

ok after reading who knows how many oil threads, can anyone tell me what the best oil to use in my VE SSV A6, what weight aswell. Im interested in diff and transmission aswell. I would like to use Mainlube or Royal Purple because from what i gather from the threads its the best two.

[Blown 454 AWD]

I vote for Mainlube

Yaaaaaaah

[giv_me_V8]

I vote for Mainlube

Yaaaaaaah

LOL, ok then what spec oils should i run in my car. Its standard other than a cam, OTR and exhaust

[JONE5Y]

I'm guessing someone might say this: 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60. Or something :)

[Blown 454 AWD]

I'm guessing someone might say this: 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60, 10W60. Or something :)


Gee's, you guys must be mind readers :goodjob:

What he said.

Cheers

Steve

[atacus]

well after reading everthing here, and some other reading I changed the Oil on my VZ clubby (LS2) (27K Km) to Castrol Edge 10W60.

Definitely quieter idle, but my oil pressure takes FOREVER to come up to "3" on the guage. I couldn't say 100% for sure but I'm pretty sure that before I changed it, the pressure would be pretty much instant from start.

Now, esp on a cold start (Ipswich Qld winter = 0 - 1 degree) it can take around 5 seconds to come up.

Advise ? anyone ?

[HEXEM]

well after reading everthing here, and some other reading I changed the Oil on my VZ clubby (LS2) (27K Km) to Castrol Edge 10W60.

Definitely quieter idle, but my oil pressure takes FOREVER to come up to "3" on the guage. I couldn't say 100% for sure but I'm pretty sure that before I changed it, the pressure would be pretty much instant from start.

Now, esp on a cold start (Ipswich Qld winter = 0 - 1 degree) it can take around 5 seconds to come up.

Advise ? anyone ?

With temps that low over night it is highly likely that the 10w60 weight oil your using will be thicker on a cold morning. I am no mechanical expert but its probably a little to thick for winter temps (pumping harder to get the oil through).

I personally would stick with the 10w30 or 10w40 weight oils. But it is all dependant on what mods etc you might have and how the car is driven as to what oil to use. If you continue to use the Castrol 10w60 maybe let it warm up a bit longer during the winter months to ensure you have proper oil pressure...

Cheers
Phil

[Blown 454 AWD]

well after reading everything here, and some other reading I changed the Oil on my VZ clubby (LS2) (27K Km) to Castrol Edge 10W60.

Definitely quieter idle, but my oil pressure takes FOREVER to come up to "3" on the gauge. I couldn't say 100% for sure but I'm pretty sure that before I changed it, the pressure would be pretty much instant from start.

Now, esp on a cold start (Ipswich Qld winter = 0 - 1 degree) it can take around 5 seconds to come up.

Advise ? anyone ?


Not sure if you've heard a cold engine start and run for 5 seconds lacking in oil pressure??

It's farkin noisy ....

So if your engine isn't making abnormal noises (big ends knocking and mains rattling) then you have enough oil pressure for the cold start.

Mainlube 10w60 and Edge 10w60 are group 4's and have a pour point of -36C.

We have the Mainlube 10w60 in Canada coping with -25C starts with no issues, of course the oil pressure will bounce up quicker in a warm engine however, with cold starts (especially round 0C) should always be performed carefully and patiently. If you are careful you won't sustain any damage (with any viscosity mentioned on this forum)

If you red line an engine that's not up to temperature then you are likely to sustain some damage, repetitive abuse in this area would be terminal (would take a while though)

So in cold weather with big expensive engines it pays to be patient and warm your engine, you will be repaid for you time with less wear.

Cheers

Steve

[atacus]

thanks for the advise !

It certainly doesn't make any horrible noises on startup, or I'd have changed it back quick smart ! I was just concerned.

And I NEVER touch the throttle until the pressure comes up to normal anyway. Even then I like to let it idle for a couple of minutes, then drive very easy for at least 10 minutes of so.

thanks again.

[RB30-POWER]

has any one ever got a used oil analysis carried out on this mainlube 10w-60stuff in an ls engine?

i'd be curious to see how good it actually is.

[vessloveit]

I have had Steve test the used Mainlube from my L98, did not find any problems other then some moisture, to be expected as vehicle does some short trips.

[Blown 454 AWD]

has any one ever got a used oil analysis carried out on this mainlube 10w-60stuff in an ls engine?

I'd be curious to see how good it actually is.

To follow is a thread by Tuna in the Mainlube Forum area showing the sample being taken and the vehicle it was taken from.

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=68469

Next link goes to the actual Filtergram test results (which speaks for its self)

http://files.mainlube.com/files/Filtergram/LS1/7001%20Street%20Tuna%20-%20VX%20HSV%20TT.pdf

Contamination is our biggest challenge, the oils life is governed by how fast you contaminate it, Mainlube oils can easily supply the needed protection to a modified engine and last the distance (20,000 klms +) however, contamination levels with city driving would be so high, 10,000 would be more likely. Oil testing is the only way to be sure, ppm

If metal levels showed to be elevated in any way, then we would use Filtergram to SEE where the elevation is being generated.

Filtergram can easily see any contamination level however, ppm is the only way in measuring any depletion in additive levels.

Cheers

Steve

[RB30-POWER]

i don't fully understand the filtergram exactly?

do you get a list of all the metal wear, like copper, tin, iron etc and silicon for dirt content and fuel dillution etc, tbn for additive level remaining?

i had an oil analysis carried out last on my oil and with only 8k on it, showed fuel dillution over 3% which classifies it as needing attention more or less asap.

car does not have any leaking injectors, fuel trims are good, sure it does some start stop driving each day 2x 20min trip on average, but not sure if that alone will make for high fuel content, the car is tuned and doesn't even run rich.

i'm not sure if a lower viscosity engine oil allows more blowby pass the rings on higher km engine, but the engine wear was not really that high in the scheme of things so the low viscosity shouldn't be affecting it too much.

[holdenhsv]

hi i am using the amsoil 5w30 and find its the best oil ever used . check performancelub.com

[4digit]

I think allot of people are still anxious from the Gen3 days! The Gen3’s needed 10-60 oil or they would sound like a diesel and engine life would be very short.

With the GEN 4 engine the tolerances are made so they can happily run with very low friction oils.

1- So they meet all emission requirements
2- For best fuel economy

I have had 3 VE SS V's and always use Castrol Edge 0-40. One of the VE's we have had since new "07" and it done 80,000km and the engine is as quiet (mechanically) as it was when it was new!

The only reason I would use 10-60 in theses engines (stock tolerances) is if I was towing heavy loads or Supercharged / Turbo applications.

[loudvtss]

SuperCheap Auto are having 20% off storewide this Saturday. Might be a good time to stock up on the Castrol 10w60. Not sure if the sale is only in Victoria.

[HEXEM]

Is there any other reason to run a light weight (5w30, 10w30) engine oil in the VE L98, L76, LS2/3 engine?. I can see it provides better fuel economy while maintaining horsepower but is there anything else? Like a specific mechanical issue with bearing issue etc etc?

Cheers
Phil

[ProVK]

Steve, How does the CST at 100c compare for the 10w60 compared to 25w50 ?

[Blown 454 AWD]

Steve, How does the CST at 100c compare for the 10w60 compared to 25w50 ?



. 0w30 is 12 cSt@100C
10w40 is 14 cSt@100C
20w50 is 18 cSt@100C
10w60 is 23 cSt@100C


The difference above at 100C is fark all from start to end however, a big difference in protection.

At 1000 hp, going from a 10w60 to a 20w50 doubled the wear metals in the oil.

Cheers

Steve

[ProVK]

So steve in my Turbocharged Holden 355ci Engine thats making around 900hp i currently run 25w50 Castrol Edge oil, you think i would see good results with a 10w60 ?

[dawkinsdisciple]

So steve in my Turbocharged Holden 355ci Engine thats making around 900hp i currently run 25w50 Castrol Edge oil, you think i would see good results with a 10w60 ?

took steves advice on the 10w60 and mine keeps it quiet and has gone a much longer interval staying clear then the previous oil

judging by your metal content in the sump line, keep it at 10w60 for when its turbo be a good idea then steve?

[Blown 454 AWD]

My red line always was 300 kw, anything over 300 flywheel kw should use, and will benefit from 10w60 IMO.

Cheers

Steve

[Gen111Staty]

Straight from the Mobil site!!

"The Drive Around Australia hero car is a HSV Z Series Maloo R8 Ute auto in Sting Red. Fitted with the HSV spec 6.0 Ltr LS2 V8 the performance reserve is enormous. All HSVs are factory filled with Mobil 1 that also has an enormous performance reserve. Mobil 1 5W-30 is the oil specified for GM LS1, LS2, LS3 and LS7 engines and is also recommended for many other cars."

Nuff Said!!

Moz!:)

[Blown 454 AWD]

Straight from the Mobil site!!

"The Drive Around Australia hero car is a HSV Z Series Maloo R8 Ute auto in Sting Red. Fitted with the HSV spec 6.0 Ltr LS2 V8 the performance reserve is enormous. All HSVs are factory filled with Mobil 1 that also has an enormous performance reserve. Mobil 1 5W-30 is the oil specified for GM LS1, LS2, LS3 and LS7 engines and is also recommended for many other cars."

Nuff Said!!

Moz!:)

No its not nuf said!!!

I don't know anyone running 5w30 Mobil 1 in there HSV, not after the first oil change anyway.

I don't know anyone racing running 5w30 oil either.

HSV had nothing to do with choosing this oil.

We just received results from Sonny on Gus Barbara's race car engine after being raced on Mainlube 175 SAE 10w60 for a year in the Combined Touring Car Series (which Gus won last year running completely on Mainlube)

www.gbracing.com.au

The report from the engine rebuilder after stripping said, No measurable wear on the rotation assemblies so a hone, rings and bearings and back out for another year.

Experience has shown us that 5w30 does not provide the necessary protection.

Cheers

Steve

[gavlotic]

Straight from the Mobil site!!

"The Drive Around Australia hero car is a HSV Z Series Maloo R8 Ute auto in Sting Red. Fitted with the HSV spec 6.0 Ltr LS2 V8 the performance reserve is enormous. All HSVs are factory filled with Mobil 1 that also has an enormous performance reserve. Mobil 1 5W-30 is the oil specified for GM LS1, LS2, LS3 and LS7 engines and is also recommended for many other cars."

Nuff Said!!

Moz!:)

I think a lot of v8 super car race teams were running 15w50 at one stage. I think 1 said racing team was running a certain mobil 1 15w50 formula that was specifically for super bikes.
Current v8 ute racing is using Nulon 15w50 street and track as control oil.
Castrol 10w60 is factory fill for a lot of BMW M series.
I see a trend here.... and completely agree with Steve

cheers,

Gav

[Micks]

There are plenty of oil threads to assist you - do a search and all will be revealed. Also, check Mainlube's sponsor section for some very good tech info.

Many have different brand loyalties, etc, so read up and make a decision for yourself.

For my donk, Castrol Edge 10w60 with new filter every 5000ks.

Cheers,

Macca

10-60 no good for a L76, L77 or L98 or higher.

Cheers
VYT

[Wonky]

Castrol 10w60 is factory fill for a lot of BMW M series.

Didn't know that! :goodjob:

[Wonky]

10-60 no good for a L76, L77 or L98 or higher.

Says who? Your dealer? :confused: I and many others have been using it in our VEs for ages.

[VY5.7LTR]

10-60 no good for a L76, L77 or L98 or higher.

Cheers
VYT

Proof please:rofl:

[drbob]

Put me on record for Fuchs, or Nulon, and even a quart of comp cams break in oil each change.

[SLugg]

l8est street commodores has full oils test a good read

royal purple and penrite seem the best

[VZ_V8]

10-60 no good for a L76, L77 or L98 or higher.

Cheers
VYT

any evidence to back that statement up?

[gavlotic]

Didn't know that! :goodjob:
Hey Wonky,

Not sure bout BMW Australia but here's what they use over in the US. Scroll down for the m series recommendations.

http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Content/Owner/SyntheticEngineOils.aspx

cheers,

Gav

[Bombaman]

With the special on Castrol Edge Sport at Repco took the plunge and dropped some in. All be it doing a rookie mistake and putting a dent in the new filter with the filter strap :(

Runs really well, idles a bit quieter and the exhaust doesn't seem to drone as much at lower RPM's either.

Would be nice if you could get 1L topup bottles but might end up putting another filter (undented) on so will have to pickup another 5L pack to top up

[Micks]

Proof please:rofl:

I use what's recomended by the Manufacturer not the Dealer.
In my case 5w 30 in the VE & 10W 60 in the LS1
@ the end of the day guys you can use whatever satisfies & I know the 10w will probably suffice?
I tend to go with the lighter stuff on my VE with AFM tight tolerance engine.
Just my take.

Cheers
VYT

[vessloveit]

With the special on Castrol Edge Sport at Repco took the plunge and dropped some in. All be it doing a rookie mistake and putting a dent in the new filter with the filter strap :(

Runs really well, idles a bit quieter and the exhaust doesn't seem to drone as much at lower RPM's either.

Would be nice if you could get 1L topup bottles but might end up putting another filter (undented) on so will have to pickup another 5L pack to top up
Bombaman you do not use the filter strap when fitting new filter should only tighten by hand, I am glad I am not removing the filter at next change it is going to as tight as the proverbial to undo.

[Micks]

Bombaman you do not use the filter strap when fitting new filter should only tighten by hand, I am glad I am not removing the filter at next change it is going to as tight as the proverbial to undo.

Your not wrong done ours the other week first oil change from new & it was a tight bastard to remove.
The original filter mentions 3/4 turn only.

Cheers
VYT

[Bombaman]

Bombaman you do not use the filter strap when fitting new filter should only tighten by hand, I am glad I am not removing the filter at next change it is going to as tight as the proverbial to undo.

I only do it up hand tight but use a oil filter strap, its just the angle I had the bar at that put a dent in it. Its force of habbit from the 4WD (KZN130) with a filter you cant get your hand too with all the accessories. One I will quickly get rid of at this rate

[VYSHSV8]

I use what's recomended by the Manufacturer not the Dealer.
In my case 5w 30 in the VE & 10W 60 in the LS1
@ the end of the day guys you can use whatever satisfies & I know the 10w will probably suffice?
I tend to go with the lighter stuff on my VE with AFM tight tolerance engine.
Just my take.

Cheers
VYT

I just hope you don't tow a heavy trailer in really hot conditions:):) using such lightweight oil unless you live in minus temps for extendable periods no need for such a lightweight oil in Aus

[Blown 454 AWD]

10-60 no good for a L76, L77 or L98 or higher.

Cheers
VYT

Gees, don't tell the thousands I have running on it getting great results.

If you tell them it's no good it mighten work as well :)

Cheers

Steve

[drbob]

Nulon full synth 15/50 5L + 1L free on special at Autobarn $49.99

[aratic]

Steve, does a lower vis oil like 10-60 take longer than say a 10-30 or 10-40 to get up to temp?

[REDHOTLS3]

I,ve found those boxes of multicoloured disposable rubber gloves great for oil and filter changes. One for taking out the sump plug and old filter ,saves burnt fingers,then peel it off ,throw it away and put on a fresh glove for fitting the new oil filer.The grip is heaps with those latex gloves for tightening the new filter by hand. Also those circle of bycycle chain with socket fitting [ $10 repco or where ever] I think is the best oil filter loosener, dents the old one taking it off ,but that doesn't matter.

[Micks]

I,ve found those boxes of multicoloured disposable rubber gloves great for oil and filter changes. One for taking out the sump plug and old filter ,saves burnt fingers,then peel it off ,throw it away and put on a fresh glove for fitting the new oil filer.The grip is heaps with those latex gloves for tightening the new filter by hand. Also those circle of bycycle chain with socket fitting [ $10 repco or where ever] I think is the best oil filter loosener, dents the old one taking it off ,but that doesn't matter.

Great advice, I have an eccentric remover that I use for my LS1 but fowls the sump on the L76, maybe due to slighter larger diam. filter on VE?

Cheers
VYT

[aratic]

I bought one of these filter removal tools. Perfect for LS motors as the filter faces downwards a normal strap removal tool can be tricky to use

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z398/aratic/BcgdkqwmkKGrHqYOKjQEq5KyW1jBK0yw52TQ_12.jpg

[Roonstain]

I have a similar one - think mine is a 1/2" drive though
Works fine for me on my VE with an L76 in it!

[Micks]

Mine is similar to one pictured though has only two jaws & must be slightly thicker as will not properly work on the L76?

Cheers
VYT

[drbob]

Supercheap sell a set of offset filter pliers.
They are fantastic, get in anywhere.

[VZ_V8]

Those that use the filter removal tools, are you doing so because of the heat factor or because the filter is so tight?

I have not once required a filter removal tool when doing an oil change on my ute. It has been done every 5000kms for the last 30,000km and I undo it by hand and do it up by hand. Never had even a drop of oil come out from around the filter.

[aratic]

I always spin my oil filter on by hand but when it comes to remove it at the next change its almost impossible to remove by hand

[vessloveit]

Who needs all these flash tools the old bush mechanics just punched a decent sized screwdriver through the filter and presto filter off in time.

[Irish]

I always spin my oil filter on by hand but when it comes to remove it at the next change its almost impossible to remove by hand

Time to build up those forearms! I have never had a filter that I couldn't undo by hand, as I only put them on by hand.

[Micks]

Time to build up those forearms! I have never had a filter that I couldn't undo by hand, as I only put them on by hand.

OK Dear how small are ya fingers though??? Cause on the LS1 there's a shit load of room! & never have a problem removing them by hand. The L76 & above have a larger bore filter & less clearance around the filter aperture in the sump.
You could drive a screwy through them but makes for a more messy job than required.

Cheers
VYT

[Blown 454 AWD]

Steve, does a lower vis oil like 10-60 take longer than say a 10-30 or 10-40 to get up to temp?

No.

Maybe get up to temp a little quicker.

Cheers

Steve

[Tre-Cool]

Those that use the filter removal tools, are you doing so because of the heat factor or because the filter is so tight?

I have not once required a filter removal tool when doing an oil change on my ute. It has been done every 5000kms for the last 30,000km and I undo it by hand and do it up by hand. Never had even a drop of oil come out from around the filter.
i warm the engine/oil up first. generally driving it from the front of the house to shed in the back yard is enough. then i use a oil filter remover to loosen the filter as i tighten a small amount.

I do my oil & filter every 10K fill the filter up with oil then spin it on, but also make sure there a splash of oil on the rubber on top.

then when it comes time to removal as mentioned above, once it's cracked loose it spins off.

[ClubbyLs1]

Who needs all these flash tools the old bush mechanics just punched a decent sized screwdriver through the filter and presto filter off in time.

If I can work in a nice clean environment without making a huge mess on the floor like we did 20 years ago then thats for me.. right tool, right job. easy. :)

I have found from experience as a tech in our busy workshop, for some reason we seem to get more oil seal's leaking than other dealerships that dont use magnatec profesional. This is unvalidated so no jumping about here.
In my old ls1 i used magnatec and never had any trouble. pulled good numbers on willall's dyno with a twin 2 1/2, pacemaker headers, crane cam package, heads and mafless tune by Martin.
Now in my new SS-V i drove it easy for first 1000km varying load and revs but nothing too high. @ 3000km i did my first oil change to Mobil 1, 0w30 with a new filter of course. I plan on continuing to use mobil 1 in it from now on.

[vessloveit]

Hi Clubby, my post was tongue in cheek stuff agree with you 100% use the right tools and the right oils etc and the job is much easier and ends up better as well.

[ClubbyLs1]

The funny thing is VESSLOVEIT,
I can remember my first car and doing just that in a gravel driveway at mum n dads house... lol
I can remember another time, I was doing a first oil change in an EH that I had just rebuilt the old 179 using tripple su's a wade cam and some head work etc... I went out n bought some top shelf oil to protect it as you do... Was pouring the new oil in and realised i forgot to put the sump plug back in... boy i was pissed at myself..
Great job mate..

[chocco]

Hi All,

Currently have a VE SSV Manual wagon its only going to do about 8-10k a year, but I only started investigating oils and filters as I am on the look out for a VZ MY06 Cross8 6ltr for towing and wanted to make sure I was putting the right oil in, but after reading this thread and others from O/S, going to give the current Mobil 1 the flick and give a 10W 60 a go. In my travels thru the WWW I have decided to go with the Mobil 1 EP Filter which I can get for $26.00, but the oil I am still undecided on, not the 10W 60, just the brand, so I have taken some snapshots and pasted them below, please feel free to make any comments, they are all welcome both for and against.

Cheers

PS - I don't have enough posts so I cannot put the links in.

Mobil 1 EP 10W 60


Viscosity, cSt (ASTM D445)
@ 40º C 152.7
@ 100º C 22.7
Viscosity Index 178
Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874) 1.4
Phosphorous, wt% (ASTM D4951) 0.13
Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92) 234
Density @15.6 ºC g/ml (ASTM D4052) 0.86
Total Base Number (ASTM D2896) 11.8
MRV at -30 ºC, cP (ASTM D4684) 25,762
HTHS Viscosity, mPa•s @ 150 ºC (ASTM D4683) 5.7




Redline 10W 60


TYPICAL PROPERTIES

API Service Class SM/SL/SG/CF
SAE Viscosity Grade (Motor Oil) 10W60
Vis @ 100°C, cSt 25.5
Vis @ 40°C, cSt 173
Viscosity Index 182
CCS Viscosity, Poise, @*C 65@-25
Pour Point, °C -45
Pour Point, °F -49
Flash Point, °C 257
Flash Point, °F 495
NOACK Evaporation Loss,1hr @ 482°F (250°C), % 6
HTHS Vis, cP @150°C, ASTM D4741 6.7



Castrol Edge 10W 60


SAE
Viscosity
Grade
KV @ 100 0C (cSt) 24.0
KV @ 40C (cSt) 168.0
CCS @ -25 0C (cP) 6000
High Temp.High Shear Viscosity 5.3
Pour Point (0C) -36
Base Number, mgK)H/g 10.9

Flash Point, °C 257
Flash Point, °F 495
NOACK Evaporation Loss,1hr @ 482°F (250°C), % 6
HTHS Vis, cP @150°C, ASTM D4741 6.7



Nulon 10W 60



Typical Characteristics
SAE Viscosity Grade 10W-60
KV @ 100°C (cSt) 24.50
KV @ 40°C (cSt) 170.0
Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 175
Density @ 15°C kg/L 0.8535
Total Base #, mg KOH/g, ASTM D 2896 7.2
Apparent Viscosity @ -25C, ASTM D5293 5200
Pour Point, °C, ASTM D 97 -27
Phosphorus Maximum % 0.098

[HEXEM]

Mate,

After spending hundreds of dollar on expensive fully synthetic oils and 2 engines later. I am just now using the holden supplied semi syn (ACdelco 10w30 premium semi-syn). The ACdelco oil is supplied my Fuchs.

I ran the full mineral oil for the last 7,000k on the new motor and it was changed over today to the semi syn 10w30. Research I have done (calling engine builders, performance and the like - Nationally) All pretty much say use a semi-syn for push-rod engines with hydraulic lifters. Run a 10w30 or 10w40. None recommended any thing heavier for normal driving.

Unless you plan to do some heavy driving (track days, drags etc) keep with the basic, save your money and change the oil regulary (I had mine done every 7,000klm).

But its completely up to you. If there is no issues with the motor you can pretty much run any oil.

[gavlotic]

not a fan of that AC delco fill.
my wife's VXSS has had nothing but the Gm labeled 10w30 that was the 'Fuch' rebadged stuff - tried a fill of that Acdelco stuff when it first came out and first time we actually heard it do some ls1 lifter rattle. For some it would sound like hardly anything. But for those that know this car it's one of the quietest examples I've come accross. If you are going a factory spec thin oil go something other than the Ac delco imho.

cheers,

Gav

[SLugg]

ive always run ULX 10-40 car has done 70k no issues

[One tonner]

I asked my dealer this question today on our VE 2 SSV, as I intend to change the oil every 7K

Responce was:

The oils that we use is Castrol.

You have three choices of oils that is

Magnatec 10W30

Castrol Edge 0W40, This is the preferred oil, ( I dont know why sorry guys)

Castrol Edge Sport 5W30

[DuaneDibbley]

All this oil change/weight talk has me a bit dubious of my VE2 SSV oil...

From what I can tell from the manual it's not actually due for a change until the 12mo/12,000km service!? That just seems a little strange to me... If it's in the manual then surely it's 'good enough' but can I be doing it better? Car does shortish trips (10km round usually) and has nearly 9,000km on it.

Should I look at doing a change myself now or waiting till the next service? It's fully stock.

[chocco]

The reason I started lnvestigating was the upcoming Cross 8 and as it is going to be towing a 2 ton caravan and in Summer as well I wanted to make sure that the oil was going to be the right one for the job.

I have always used Mobil 1 and always changed my oil every 5000km, but as DuaneDibbley said "can I be doing better".

So my 10,000km is coimg up in about 200kmin the SSV I have the Mobil 1 EP Oil filter but there are alot of 10W 60 oils out there including Mobil 1 and I am quite sure that the Castrol Edge 10W 60 is a great oil as other members have testified to, but can I do better.

The only thing that worries me about putting a 10W 60 in the SSV is that 70% of its km are short trips, the Cross 8 will definetly get the 10W 60 just don't know which one, if there is something out there in between Mainlube and Castrol Edge please let me know.

Cheers

[DSRUPT]

i use penrite full synthetic 15w40 i think it was

[cashie]

I just dropped some castrol edge 10w-60 into mine yesterday, engine is quieter and pressure is higher..

[Blakrok]

Just had my SSV serviced by Holden, they used Castrol 5w30 @ ~$80.

[pah]

Hi Guys,

I make sure that the synthetic oil I buy is Group 4. I understand that some oil companies run mineral oil through an extra process or two and then label it as Group 3 sythetic. Castrol makes a Group 4 synthetic and so does Mobil - Mobil 1.

Some car makers recommend a specific oil to enable extended drain intervals of around 20,000 kms or more. I think that they're probably always recommending Group 4 synthetic oil. My reasoning - if a Group 4 oil is OK for 20,000 kms, it should give great protection for 10,000 to 15,000kms.



PAH

[matthewfnorbert]

if there is something out there in between Mainlube and Castrol Edge please let me know.

Cheers

whats the difference between mainlube 10w 60 and edge 10w 60?

are they not 99% the same?

[Blown 454 AWD]

whats the difference between mainlube 10w 60 and edge 10w 60?

are they not 99% the same?

No they are not the same, very different additive package and base oil (even though both are group IV)

You can built a standard engine or a LXS race engine, huge difference in price and quality.

A Skoda or a Merc

Cheers

[Gts.300]

Any one tried Lucas oil stabilized? Does it just increase viscousity ?

[vitob2006]

Just ripped my LS2 engine apart. Only ever used castrol edge 0W40. Never had valvetrain noise, start up issues or oil consumption issues.
Clean as a whistle after 150 000km.
Bores are as smooth as a baby's bottom and valve train perfect....no deposits anywhere in the engine

Along with all the forums in the US 0W40 seems the way to go and thats my experience.

LS1s might like 10W60 but not the LS2.

0W40,0W40,0W40,0W40,0W40,0W40,0W40,0W40.

Don't get sucked into to higher oil pressure being a good thing, it just means the the oils tooooo thick and it requires more pressure to move it around.

Full synthetic gives u optimum film strength at the right thickness at operating temperature, hence the 40 in 0W40 and the 0 in the 0W40 means that the oil doesn't thick up when it cools which means better protection at cold start up.

After all the hours and days and weeks of trying to work it out. I am glad I got it right. And I have the proof. AND by no means has the car been babyed but after street use and abuse the bottom end is pristine.

CASTROL EDGE 0W40 FULL SYNTHETIC....PERIOD

[Blown 454 AWD]

Just ripped my LS2 engine apart. Only ever used castrol edge 0W40. Never had valvetrain noise, start up issues or oil consumption issues.
Clean as a whistle after 150 000km.
Bores are as smooth as a baby's bottom and valve train perfect....no deposits anywhere in the engine

Along with all the forums in the US 0W40 seems the way to go and that's my experience.

LS1s might like 10W60 but not the LS2.

0W40,0W40,0W40,0W40,0W40,0W40,0W40,0W40.

Don't get sucked into to higher oil pressure being a good thing, it just means the the oils too thick and it requires more pressure to move it around.

Full synthetic gives u optimum film strength at the right thickness at operating temperature, hence the 40 in 0W40 and the 0 in the 0W40 means that the oil doesn't thick up when it cools which means better protection at cold start up.

After all the hours and days and weeks of trying to work it out. I am glad I got it right. And I have the proof. AND by no means has the car been babied but after street use and abuse the bottom end is pristine.

CASTROL EDGE 0W40 FULL SYNTHETIC....PERIOD



Great feedback and its good to see the range of Edge performing well in this application.

Two questions must be asked ....

How do you know LS2's don't like 10w60, I have many happy one's with no dramas.

How do you know that 10w60 wouldn't protect your engine even more, providing even less wear than you received with the 0W40

Just thoughts that popped out when reading your post.

Cheers

Steve

[Roonstain]

The thing that got my attention from that was comparing US data and experience to Australia. What weather conditions are common in the areas the 0w40 data came from?
Need to compare apples with apples - if you live somewhere where frost is non existent etc, the thickening when really cold is a non issue

[Blown 454 AWD]

The thing that got my attention from that was comparing US data and experience to Australia. What weather conditions are common in the areas the 0w40 data came from?
Need to compare apples with apples - if you live somewhere where frost is non existent etc, the thickening when really cold is a non issue

+1 Good point Roonstain

Cheers

[chocco]

Thanks for all the great input.

So this is what I am going to go with.

1) 10,000 km Oil Change Mobil 1 5W 30, with a Mobil 1 EP Oil Filter and FilterMag.

2) 15,000 km Oil Change Edge 10W 60, with a Mobil 1 EP Oil Filter and FilterMag.

3) I will cut open the oil filter at both 15,000 and then 20,000km and take happy snaps of what the FilterMag has trapped. Considering the car does only 10,000km a year, I won't know the results for 12 months, so stay tuned !!

[vitob2006]

Great feedback and its good to see the range of Edge performing well in this application.

Two questions must be asked ....

How do you know LS2's don't like 10w60, I have many happy one's with no dramas.

How do you know that 10w60 wouldn't protect your engine even more, providing even less wear than you received with the 0W40

Just thoughts that popped out when reading your post.

Cheers

Steve

Hi steve,

On both your questions, I dont.
However after seeing the way mine has responded to that oil spec which is consistent with massive amount of info on the forums from the LS2 C6 to the GTOs, there is a general consensus.
As you can appreciate the only evidence that an oil has performed well is when an engine is dissembled and inspected. After 150 000km of meticulous maintenance the engine was pristine. Bores showed no sign of wear, nor did the camshaft, lifters, and valve train. Sump was perfectly clean.
This gives not only information of the oil's performance at operating temperature but also at cold start when 70-80% of engine wear occurs...of course we are talking about a daily driven car not one which is exposed to the extremes of racing applications.
During my engine rebuild I had the assistance of my mechanic who has over 10 years experience in engine building and a mechanical engineer (my neighbor) with 40 years experience in engine design and fault finding, and both have said that quote, 'this engine looks as though it had just been built.'

Is this a surprise....NO WAY....0W40 gave me the best protection based on correct viscosity, thickness and film strength at both cold and operating temperatures.
After all this, my point being, my findings are consistent with all the information and oil debates for the LS2 engines especially from engine builders in the USA..0W40 full synthetic is the best oil for the LS2.

On a side note my routine was:
Oil change every 8000-10000km
engine flush 20 mins
oil filter K & N with magnet
Castrol Edge 0W40

Hope this qualifies my previous post.

[One tonner]

I asked my dealer this question today on our VE 2 SSV, as I intend to change the oil every 7K

Responce was:

The oils that we use is Castrol.

You have three choices of oils that is

Magnatec 10W30

Castrol Edge 0W40, This is the preferred oil, ( I dont know why sorry guys)

Castrol Edge Sport 5W30


Just to drag this thread back up.

I had another chat to the dealer today and asked why Castrol Edge 0W40 there prefered oil. The responce was that the L77 AFM 6lt motor fitted in the series two VE has higher tolerances in the engine even compaired to the series one 6lt.

I asked him about 10W60 Castrol Edge Sport, he thought it would be a bit thick for the L77 AFM motor. :rolleyes:

After re-reading this whole thread, I would like Steve to give his take on the L77 AFM business, from what I have read here 10W60 Castrol would still be suitable for the L77 motor.

[Roonstain]

Mate, your dealer is bullsh!tting you or is on the crack pipe.......

The tolerances in your motor are no different to an L98, L76, LS2, LS3 etc etc. He was just saying that to justify his dealership oil choice.

If you don't intend on giving your car a hard time, then you will be like most holden buyers and the 0w30, 5w30, 0w40 etc will be ok - if you intend on some mods and giving it a little bit more of a hard time (going to the track, running a bigger cam etc etc) then I personally think you would be stupid not to get some 10w60.

[HYMEY]

I used to use 10w60 a lot, I live in warmer climate and have switched to valvoline xld! No shit! It is the best stuff I have used in them, quieter on cold start/hot start, fuel economy is great, is very cheap and change it every 5000kms or less.

[BLACKVE]

I used to use 10w60 a lot, I live in warmer climate and have switched to valvoline xld! No shit! It is the best stuff I have used in them, quieter on cold start/hot start, fuel economy is great, is very cheap and change it every 5000kms or less.

Joel what rating is that??? I love the edge 10w60 in my VE an used it in my VY (55000km's)but the vy rattles abit more(valve train noise) much better on magnatec 10w40:confused: DAD always used castrol and i'm staying the same.

Adelaide is interesting weather wise can be zero degress in winter mornings and mid 40's in summer

[chevypower]

I use Royal Purple, and don't think I will switch to any other brand now.

[tomholzy]

yeah I just put royal purple 10w40 in

[One tonner]

Mate, your dealer is bullsh!tting you or is on the crack pipe.......

The tolerances in your motor are no different to an L98, L76, LS2, LS3 etc etc. He was just saying that to justify his dealership oil choice.

If you don't intend on giving your car a hard time, then you will be like most holden buyers and the 0w30, 5w30, 0w40 etc will be ok - if you intend on some mods and giving it a little bit more of a hard time (going to the track, running a bigger cam etc etc) then I personally think you would be stupid not to get some 10w60.

Lol Roonstain, I would agree.

Well put some 10W60 Castrol edge in the wagon today. God knows what that "donkeys blood" is from the factory but its like bloody water and black "as" only after 5000Ks, so glad I changed it.

Donk was never noisy but I am sure she is happier with the Castrol in her, thanks for the advice guys. :goodjob:

[EfiJy]

I used to use 10w60 a lot, I live in warmer climate and have switched to valvoline xld! No shit! It is the best stuff I have used in them, quieter on cold start/hot start, fuel economy is great, is very cheap and change it every 5000kms or less.

Isn't the Valvaline XLD a slightly thicker oil on startup?

I've used Penrite and Castrol edge 10W oils and so far i get the valvetrain piston slap noise on startup.

I'd like to know what the original owner used because I distinctly remember firing the car up for the first time in the morning and it didn't make any noise. This was before the deal was done.

[swifty2happy]

Isn't the Valvaline XLD a slightly thicker oil on startup?

I've used Penrite and Castrol edge 10W oils and so far i get the valvetrain piston slap noise on startup.

I'd like to know what the original owner used because I distinctly remember firing the car up for the first time in the morning and it didn't make any noise. This was before the deal was done.

like wise iv got a VE SS ute running castrol 10w60 (just recently added) and on start up i get valvetrain piston slap noise on startup.

going to try castrol 0w40 or penrite 5w40

[swifty2happy]

running castrol 0w40 now alot smoother in the mornings on startup, live in canberra temps are getting very cold in the mornings and at night when i leave work. will move to 10w60 in the summer.

just my 2 cents

[theco]

In the high temperature extremes of motor racing even most manufacturers recommend going to a thicker 10-60. For street use however 5W-30 is fine, especially during winter. If you desire better protection during the summer months use a 5W-40.

[caj39]

Yep, Royal Purple 10w40....expensive but you will notice the difference.

I agree, I use Royal Purple 10w40 and would not use anything else now!

[turbocliff]

done my first oil change on my s2 ss on the weeekend

only done 7000km

used penrite 0w-40 motor seems to like it so see how it go's


ps. has anyone had any problems with doing 15000k on holdens first oil change service

my oil was black at 7000km in 6months hate to see what it looked like in another 6months :eyes:

[6LSSV]

Just changed my oil and filter. I followed mainlube's recommendations, drained old oil out, put 5L of regular oil plus oil flush additive, ran for half an hour. Drained that, then put in the right amount of castrol edge sport 10w60 in plus new performance filter with inbuilt magnet and now it's running so much smoother than before! Idles quieter and revs up quicker too. Only a small bit different but u do notice the good oil! It's pricey tho, cost bit over $220 to do that.

[MICKVESSV]

done my first oil change on my s2 ss on the weeekend

only done 7000km

used penrite 0w-40 motor seems to like it so see how it go's


ps. has anyone had any problems with doing 15000k on holdens first oil change service

my oil was black at 7000km in 6months hate to see what it looked like in another 6months :eyes:

No!! Not at all i just had my first 15,000km service and asked the Holden mechanic to show me the oil it was fine. But every 15,000km does seem
abit far apart i gues every 7500km would be considered better but i think
mine also had one at 3000km as well.

[Wonky]

...............but i think mine also had one at 3000km as well.

Dealers only do an oil change at 3,000km if you specifically request it and even then I've heard of people being told it's not required. It means your free 3,000km inspection will then cost you.

[vessloveit]

Just changed my oil and filter. I followed mainlube's recommendations, drained old oil out, put 5L of regular oil plus oil flush additive, ran for half an hour. Drained that, then put in the right amount of castrol edge sport 10w60 in plus new performance filter with inbuilt magnet and now it's running so much smoother than before! Idles quieter and revs up quicker too. Only a small bit different but u do notice the good oil! It's pricey tho, cost bit over $220 to do that.

What brand of filter did you use and where did you purchase it from?

[Wonky]

Anyone selling Edge 10w60 cheap at the moment? My car is due for its 7,500km oil change. :)

[amckiwi]

plus 1 for the oil

Stu

[6LSSV]

Dunno what it's usually at, but at autobahn in frankston it was $72 per 5L bottle.


And the oil filter I got was "drift". I asked for a k&n one but none were in stock. The guy suggested a drift one, and I was like nah cos I thought it was some shitty brand one, but he told me about their oil filter and supposedly it's the same quality as a k&n if not better. Also has a magnet inside it. And a nut on the end to put it on.

Anyone know about these filters! If yet are actually any good?

[Wonky]

Just found out Repco are having 20% off for RACV, RACQ, NRMA etc members all July (see www.repco.com.au). There are exclusions like GPS etc but doesn't seem as if oil is excluded. The 20% is off RRP. Anyone know what RRP is on Edge 10w60? :confused:

[6LSSV]

Just found out Repco are having 20% off for RACV, RACQ, NRMA etc members all July (see www.repco.com.au). There are exclusions like GPS etc but doesn't seem as if oil is excluded. The 20% is off RRP. Anyone know what RRP is on Edge 10w60? :confused:


Well autobahn was $72 so pretty much the same as that yeh?

[VXSS346]

Has anyone else besides me noticed lifter noise (I think) after starting the engine warm with castrol edge 10W-60? After driving off though all is good again.

Starts fine when cold, and drives quiet all the time, but this is ONLY when restarted warm, until driven off. Then all good.

Help appreciated.

I have another Edge in the garage but I don't know whether to give it a second try. :hmmm:

Thanks

[Wonky]

Well autobahn was $72 so pretty much the same as that yeh?

Don't think so as Autobarn usually sell at discount. Some fool on eBay wants basically $80 each for 5L Edge 10w60 plus $8+ delivery. You'd have to live in the middle of nowhere to make that attractive! :weirdo:

[6LSSV]

That's at Discount? Haha and I thought it was heaps! I was trying to find the esteem all the oils were 35$ etc, when I saw $72 I almost fainted haha.

[HEXEM]

Supercheap Auto's normal price for Castrol Edge 10w60 is $71.48. So with 20% off that would be $57.18.

Repco's prices seem to be about $5 more for oils than Supercheap.

[Wonky]

Oops! My memory failed me (old age :lol:) - ignore please. :doh:

[nvous1]

Just found out Repco are having 20% off for RACV, RACQ, NRMA etc members all July (see www.repco.com.au). There are exclusions like GPS etc but doesn't seem as if oil is excluded. The 20% is off RRP. Anyone know what RRP is on Edge 10w60? :confused:

Supercheap had 20% off on Saturday just gone, was $71.00 so picked it up for $56 something x2

[Wonky]

Supercheap had 20% off on Saturday just gone, was $71.00 so picked it up for $56 something x2

Yeah, but Repco's site said savings off RRP and I'm sure Supercheap sell the 10w60 for less than RRP, so Repco won't be quite as cheap. Still better than a :nutkick: though! :D

[BlownVR]

Has anyone else besides me noticed lifter noise (I think) after starting the engine warm with castrol edge 10W-60?

I tried the Edge 10W60 a few years ago in my VU SS. I noticed more lifter noise but I don't remember if it was hot, cold or both. Went back to Magnatec 10W40 and it was quieter again, so I concluded that the 10W60 was probably too thick. I'm about to try some Edge 0W40 in my LS3.

[Tre-Cool]

If your looking for oil take a look at the kendell brand of oil. you can buy it locally from the distributor in cartons. 12 x .95lt bottles per carton.

Works out to be cheaper than buying 2 x 5litre bottles of oil.

i get all my dexron 6 oil from them
http://www.oilandenergy.com.au/shop/
http://www.oilandenergy.com.au/Automotive_Engine_Oils_Perth.html

[VXSS346]

I tried the Edge 10W60 a few years ago in my VU SS. I noticed more lifter noise but I don't remember if it was hot, cold or both. Went back to Magnatec 10W40 and it was quieter again, so I concluded that the 10W60 was probably too thick. I'm about to try some Edge 0W40 in my LS3.

Yeah, maybe its too thick for my engine, I was using 10W30 all these years, so maybe the sudden change to 10W60 has freaked it out. :lol:

This may sound stupid but, does it possibly need a few oil changes to adapt? :flame:

[Wonky]

I do recall reading in a thread on here somewhere that due to the different additives used by different oils it can take around 1,000km before the motor "settles down/gets used to" the new oil. So not a few oil changes but definitely a settling in period.

[Wonky]

FWIW I just rang Repco for price on 5L Edge 10w60. $73 normal price so $58.40 with the current 20% discount for RACV members.

[73LJWhiteSL]

Well i've got the 130,000 service due so i think i will give the Castrol 10W60 stuff a go. It has 10W40 (Magnatec) in it at the moment, so will see if there is much different.

Thanks for the heads up about Repco, Gotta use that RACV card a bit more.:goodjob:

Steve

[BLACKVE]

Hey guys what are you running in AFM cars, the ute loves 10w60 edge but the Sv8 is a bit rattley(going back to magnatec10w 40) thinking this or edge 10w40 for the cold winter 0c this morning for the girls AFM SS

[WORK8]

Well after reading all that my head hurts! One thing that I do find surprising though. We spend copious amounts of money on fuel, in my case between $150 to $250 per week, but every one seems to be worried about spending that little bit extra for good oil, something that lasts 5000 to 15000kms

[Wonky]

Hey guys what are you running in AFM cars

I've run Edge 10w/60 since about 7,500km (car had AFM removed at about 22,000km in July last year).

[BLACKVE]

The misses car has just done 22500km's so 6500 since the 15000km service(done at 16000km's) now when we bought the car at 9500 i gave it a change to edge 10w60 and holden gave it 5w30 magnatec i was going to see what it was like(re rattles/fuel economy no difference to me), changed again today to 10w60 for summer, interesting that the oil was black as, this car has an avg speed of 80km/h and hardly over 2000rpm doing 800km a week mostly on 4cyl.

Edge 10w60 always from now on.

[my99wrx7]

I have been running Mobil 1 10-30. I have not tried the 10-60. What difference is it going to make? Will it make the engine quieter?

[Phillshz]

I have been running Mobil 1 10-30. I have not tried the 10-60. What difference is it going to make? Will it make the engine quieter?

Well it depends,if it is noisy (lifters) when hot or has worn rings (i doubt it). The thicker oil will help reduce both of these.
With the thicker oil your pumping losses increase (internal drag of the engine)
so your fuel consumption should increase slightly with a thicker oil.

I personally think such a thick and expensive oil is a waste of money unless it is a highly stressed race motor.
The V8 utes use nulon 15w-40 for example,so a 60 weight is overkill :teach:
Manufacturers run thin oils to reduce fuel consumption slightly but they wont use something that will harm the engine as they don`t want the warranty issues.

I changed from whatever holden put it my VZ L76 to Magnatec 10w-40 and the well known intermittant lifter rattle on start up that these engines have, vanished. For $28 a bottle it`s great value and the perfect weight for a modern street engine with tighter tolerances. :teach:

Spent the money you saved on oil and get the mrs some flowers on the way back from supercheap :love:

Cheers Phill

[aaron1828]

I like to use Mobil 1 5w/30, good oil but can be little $$ compared to other brands

[Steele304VS]

fuk it too much too read and too difficult to find answers.
I'm just going to go royal purple!

[BLACKVE]

I have been running Mobil 1 10-30. I have not tried the 10-60. What difference is it going to make? Will it make the engine quieter?

Main reason for me is the hot summer temps never noticed engine noise difference etc in the VE's i've owned(apart from valve train due to cam upgrade, just not to keen on the black water that ran out of the misses SS just seems to thin to me.

[daztheclipper]

I have recently changed to Castrol 10w60, best thing I ever did for the car, engine is quieter, smoother and after reading this thread and talking to the guys who go to BC regularly it was definitely something I should have done a lot earlier.;)

[NezVim]

Hi Gents,

I just picked up my SS-Z last Saturday. Its got the L77.

The dealer told me that the oil from the factory is just running in oil.

I was thinking of changing the oil and filter at 500km to get the initial metal flakes out with another dyno running in oil and at 3000km initial inspection change it to a synthetic. I think penrite do a run in oil.

Does this sound right?

Should I just leave the oil in and change at 3000km? or just go to the 15000km service?

In regards to breaking in the engine am doing all the right things I think. Varying the rpm, loading it up, letting the engine de-accelerate (manual box), few wot runs here and there when engine is at full operating temp only. If am in traffic or at set of light I rev it now and then so it doesn't idle.

thanks in advance

[Micks]

Hi Gents,

I just picked up my SS-Z last Saturday. Its got the L77.

The dealer told me that the oil from the factory is just running in oil.

I was thinking of changing the oil and filter at 500km to get the initial metal flakes out with another dyno running in oil and at 3000km initial inspection change it to a synthetic. I think penrite do a run in oil.

Does this sound right?

Should I just leave the oil in and change at 3000km? or just go to the 15000km service?

In regards to breaking in the engine am doing all the right things I think. Varying the rpm, loading it up, letting the engine de-accelerate (manual box), few wot runs here and there when engine is at full operating temp only. If am in traffic or at set of light I rev it now and then so it doesn't idle.

thanks in advance

Don't know about that! First oil change in book is 15K don't think it would be "running in Oil". Personally, on a new engine would drop it @ 1500km & every 5K after that.

[Stevie_B]

Im using Caltrol Edge titanium 5w40 changing every 5,000kms. Very smooth and quite and engine seems to run cleanly when your giving it some stick. Super cheap mormally sell it for $68-$72 per 5ltr bottle.

[NezVim]

Don't know about that! First oil change in book is 15K don't think it would be "running in Oil". Personally, on a new engine would drop it @ 1500km & every 5K after that.

The guy at the dealership seemed quite convinced that its running in oil.

Its probably not proper running in oil just a dyno oil.

Anyway I will drop it at 500km and then at 3000km.

[Wonky]

Hi Gents,

I just picked up my SS-Z last Saturday. Its got the L77.

The dealer told me that the oil from the factory is just running in oil.

I was thinking of changing the oil and filter at 500km to get the initial metal flakes out with another dyno running in oil and at 3000km initial inspection change it to a synthetic. I think penrite do a run in oil.

Does this sound right?

Should I just leave the oil in and change at 3000km? or just go to the 15000km service?

In regards to breaking in the engine am doing all the right things I think. Varying the rpm, loading it up, letting the engine de-accelerate (manual box), few wot runs here and there when engine is at full operating temp only. If am in traffic or at set of light I rev it now and then so it doesn't idle.

thanks in advance

Most guys here, the fastidious ones at least, change their oil at the 3,000km inspection (which is not a service). As far as running in goes, I've read on here that modern engines do not need the running in process like older engines do. In fact some of the guys now reckon their engine is better for a good thrashing from new - just let the oil get up to temp first of course!!