cam installed..stalling issues.

I got a cam installed recently,comp 228 230 112.Told the tuner I wanted an angry idle,"easy" he said,"Ill just throw a bit more fuel into it at idle".Since having the car back, I am experiencing stalling, or very near stalling issues when down changing (Its a manual) when pulling up at lights etc. Also in between gear changes it seems to hang on to revs for a while before dropping.It made 237 rwkw with previous tune and bolt ons,now makes 275 rwkw with cam.But power drops off at exactly the same spot(at about 5500-5600 rpm) as my standard cam and I thought it would just be starting to get going by then.He said he tried putting more timing into it but it wouldnt take anymore.It is run on 98 fuel.Would too much fuel cause any of these issues?Also I used to be able to start slipping the clutch to get moving before but now it needs quite a few revs or it will stall.Is there an easy solution?I will go back and have a chat to him but was wondering if you guys could give some advise....Cheers.

Before we get 1,000,000 replies here that say "it shouldnt do that", "its this..." "its that..."
Pickup the phone monday morning and ring your tuner. Or even better, pop in and have a chat about your issues and ask how he/she will fix them for you. If you are still unhappy with the results after you two have tried everything, take it somewhere else.

If you bought a TV and the volume didnt work correctly and it didnt turn on every time you pressed the power button, would you post it up here first or would to ring the supplier and ask for it to be replaced or fixed?

Fair call mate,will def. go and speak to him again,was just after some opinions on what may be causing issues....But ill take your advise...Cheers.

hey mate did you get this sorted out? Sounds exactly like our vy sv8 manual. Its n/a and made 447.5rwhp but it stalls all the time while downchanging and for no apparent reason at idle as in stop at traffic lights and it will stall as you come up to them or you will be idling at lights waiting for them to change and the revs will drop out of it and it will stall. Its been to two different tuners and they all say they can fix it but they cant!!!

447rwhp must be a rather large cam. Thats why its stalling

Mine is a bit like this except mine never stalls. Some times revs in mine will drop incredibly low (less than 200rpm) but every time it bounces back. This is under the same situations as well (coming to a stop at lights etc). This is a 237/242 cam as well with a pretty darn angry idle.

Funnily enough my housemate's VY SS (stock cam) suffers the same problems and will stall on occasion. It seems like the idle just gets really unstable with revs jumping around until it just drops too low and game over.

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Originally Posted by DC347

447rwhp must be a rather large cam. Thats why its stalling

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yes its a large cam BUT its not the only one with that size cam....... all the clearances are fine. It shouldnt mean its a given that it will stall specially when it can run beautifully and have excellent drivability and then all of a sudden its a pig, wont start, stalls all the time, hunts up and down etc etc.

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Originally Posted by Stewge

Mine is a bit like this except mine never stalls. Some times revs in mine will drop incredibly low (less than 200rpm) but every time it bounces back. This is under the same situations as well (coming to a stop at lights etc). This is a 237/242 cam as well with a pretty darn angry idle.

Funnily enough my housemate's VY SS (stock cam) suffers the same problems and will stall on occasion. It seems like the idle just gets really unstable with revs jumping around until it just drops too low and game over.

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some times it recovers itself other times it stalls, sometimes it restarts perfectly other times it starts and will be running but only at about 200-300 rpm.....

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Originally Posted by sjheath

some times it recovers itself other times it stalls, sometimes it restarts perfectly other times it starts and will be running but only at about 200-300 rpm.....

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Whens the last time you have cleaned your TB? the Idle valve may be jamming. No amount of tuning will fix that issue

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Originally Posted by Toddler78

Whens the last time you have cleaned your TB? the Idle valve may be jamming. No amount of tuning will fix that issue

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its been a little while but nothing too extended lol its always been there even after everythings been cleaned and freshened up. its becoming a nightmare!!

Seems like there are still a lot of tuners out there who struggle tuning drivability. :sad:

Certainly sounds like a sensor/wiring issue if your saying the drivability is perfect but then it just loses the plot. IAT sensor wiring ok? If that shorts out or open circuits it will play all havok

Not directed at the OP, but it amazes me how many people want big power, but want the car to behave like a standard one.

In regards to the OP's car, I'd take it back to the tuner and get them to drive it with you in the car. Maybe it's an issue they cannot replicate for whatever reason?

I had this issue on my car

2002 ss commodore using a L98 engine with 232 234 112 cam and PSI springs

It ended up being a bad IAC valve

It wasnt homing properly.. when you turn the key on it would either open or close first i cant remeber then vica versa to its limits to find its spot. It was hitting a different spot every time due to the iac valve not seating correctly in my fast TB because the body of the IAC motor was slightly loose on the flange where it bolts onto the TB.

Then a combination of that and settings in the computer (might vary ) mine was set so when it was colder it was able to learn more meaning it would bandaid the problem until it hit like 60 or 70 degrees just before op temps then it would start stalling because it would hit the cap on learn settings. If turning the key off and on a few times changes where your car idles it is more than likely the IAC motor as its how i learn to deal with it until i bought myself a EFILIVE scan and tune and ended up fixing the tune side of things once i fixed the mechanical part

I had the hanging part 200 rpm then picks up (which is when the PCM undershoots the desired airflow (idle airflow table) until a timer (some other table) is met being under idle speed then corrected by a maximum of settings in another table) hence why it hangs for the few seconds then picks up and thats just short term settings

I noticed with the faulty airflow valve it would vary so much where with a new one it still does slightly vary but its only 100 rpm if that, not 1200 rpm difference which it was with the faulty one

I also noticed i used a different brand but a known gm standard product brand which was slightly different and it did need different settings in the PCM to idle

Ive also turned long term idle learn off and it never stalls thats how close you SHOULD be able to get it if not slightly over adjust so it short term learns down and not up as its smoother well for manual anyways

If you read this and have this problem, start with changing your IAC valve even if you borrow one if idle becomes more consistant then it should just need a touch up in the tune

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Originally Posted by Leppy

Not directed at the OP, but it amazes me how many people want big power, but want the car to behave like a standard one.

In regards to the OP's car, I'd take it back to the tuner and get them to drive it with you in the car. Maybe it's an issue they cannot replicate for whatever reason?

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I have a 243/250 in an ls1 and it behaves beautifully. I don't know why many others have so many issues...