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I know a lot of us use edge 10w60' myself included. But if you read the description for its application and then read the same for 5w40 and then see what viscosity Holden recommends isn't the 5w40 a better match for what we use our cars for 95 percent of the time. I know what Steve from mainlube recommends but I just thought I'd throw this out there for debate.
I've been told to use a good mineral oil with a 20w50 weight for my 382 stroker I'm building, and to change the oil ever 5000ks.
Do you know why they recommended that oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by Black VU SS ute
My take we have 7.5-10k ally engines for the small additional cost for synthetic oils why wouldn't you use it? Engines are @ least 3-4 times the cost they were back in the 70's.
Therefore use the best oil you can afford!!
Castrol EDGE 25W-50 ttls1 for last 4 years
Is that just for the first few thousand kms or for good?Quote:
Originally Posted by Black VU SS ute
I agree, but I'm asking is 5w40 edge better for an ls1 than 10w60. If you read the jargon on each to me the 5w40 is a more suitable viscosity than 10 w60 for every day use. They are the same quality product with different viscosity.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micks
I searched and found something for you to have a read of.
http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?33447-So-you-would-like-to-know-how-to-choose-the-correct-oil
For the record I ran a 10w40 (Nulon Semi Synthetic) oil and now run a 10w60 (HPR 10) and noticed maybe a small change in engine noise which was that it ran a little quieter with the 10w60 oil. I have also ran the 10w60 oil during a winter and I can't pick a difference in noise. Now I log EOP (engine oil pressure) with EFI live I will be able to see differences in summer and winter (when it gets here) start up oil pressures if there is any. Just checked my last log and from 0 I was at 47.4 psi in under 1 second with a coolant temp of 30 DegC with the cold idle over 50 psi. Will be interesting to see what winter shows.
Way to thin. 5-40 that is
5-40 is generally recommended in stock L76's, L77's & LS3's. I prefer the Penrite Full Synth 10-70.
While we're on the topic of oil mine is coming up for its due service, currently has Liqui Moly 5w30 in it and I don't mind it except after the recent heatwave ive noticed that there seems to be a louder engine ticking on cold starts(goes away after bout 5-10 sec). Ive used Edge 5w30 & 10w60 in the past for my previous car(cammed ssv) and I liked both but tried the edge 5w30 on the clubby @ the 3k service and the ls3 did not like it all, for what ive read 10w60 seems the way to go but I don't know whether to stick with Edge or try Royal Purple? anyone have any suggestions?
If your gunna push the km's between changes like to 10k etc Royal Purple may be ok.
If prefer changing every 5k more prudent to use Castrol or Penrite ;)
guess it comes down to money as spending 70-90 bucks a gallon on oil is a little insane on a daily,
I got 10w60 edge at 50 bucks a gallon , which at around 100 bucks for a full synthetic oil change, it ain't too bad.
Pity mainlube don't do a budget version of their 10w60 as it'd sell.
Mentioned the same in the M6 lube thread, I don't like leaving any oil in anywhere too long!!Quote:
Originally Posted by XUV
Mineral versus synthetic debate comes down to a couple things. I have found certain ring types do not like synthetic oil and it will glaze the bore
There is nothing wrong with a good quality mineral oil however wouldnt leave it in there for 10k and is more like the other guy said change every 5k. As far as grade this is governed by clearances tighter clearances thinner the oil looser then thicker. Factory you have around 1.5 thou bearing clearance. My personal recommendation would be 5w30 such as dexos. I wouldn't run 10w60 as it is way too thick. Thick oil also makes your lifters noisey food for thought