Printable View
Hi guys,
My VY Monaro is starting to lose oil from the rear main seal so i've decided I might as well do the clutch at the same time as the seal.
Anyone got any recommendations about where to buy both a clutch kit and rear seal? I would prefer to stick with genuine equipment and I'm based in Sydney.
Thanks in Advance.
Hi All, I called Peninsula Holden today to get a price on both a clutch kit & Rear seal.
They quoted $740 for the clutch kit which includes fly wheel & slave cylinder. Nothing too surprising here but when it came to the seal i was very surprised. Apparently they don't sell just the seal and i need to buy the entire housing at a cost of $202. Does this sound right? Was there a problem with the original housing which is why Holden now sell it as a complete kit?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
New design reverse Lip Seal from GM part number is 89018129.
I replaced mine on my L76 6.0L. Holden part number for above is 89060436, $49.65 in Sep 2013.
GM motorsport sell rear main seal for $38.50 below
http://www.gmmotorsport.com.au/produ...S-Engines.html
Have read in here,
http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthre...ghlight=mcleod
Thanks a lot for that, i'd much rather replace the just the seal for 40 bucks rather than the entire housing!Quote:
Originally Posted by SASLS1
I found this online today. What are your thoughts? keep in mind my car is stock with the exception of an exhaust and tune.Quote:
Originally Posted by SASLS1
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131453587...865%26_rdc%3D1
I have heard from a few mechanics that the housing that holds the seal is subjected to a lot of heat and tends to distort over time causing the seal to leak
Im replacing the clutch in my car and will be changing the whole housing don't want any problems as its not an easy fix
hmm, ok something for me to think about then. Thanks for the advice!Quote:
Originally Posted by R8HSVHRT
Any body else out there with a distorted rear end???Quote:
Originally Posted by R8HSVHRT
I don't think your rear plate will be distorted. Just make sure you put some assembly lube on the new lip of the seal and where it touches the crank and also make sure the crankshaft is ok where the seal runs. Moly grease will do the job. Linish the crank by hand if you have to. The bolts on your flywheel might also go through the crank and into the sump so they might need to be sealed as mine do. Have a good look at that just to make sure. I use hydraulic thread sealant (red on mine). That way they don't come undone as well.
Also, while the rear plate is bolted to the engine, it is not going to be warped. You can change the seal without removing the rear plate. That way you don't have to buy a new seal for the plate.
I can't imagine it warping whilst it's on there either.Quote:
Originally Posted by ls2 cruiser
The seals come prelubed, If you remove the Plate to change out the seal you then need an alignment tool to reinstall the plate, better to leave the plate bolted in place as Cruiser says.
Attachment 4198
Attachment 4199
That's a very nifty tool. I don't have it and all I do is measure the sideways (horizontal) distance from the crank on each side and make them the same. The vertical distance is located by the position of the sump. My block is line honed because of a main stud kit and so my crank is higher by .003" or more. The seal has a fair bit of movement and it does not worry it to be out just slightly. Put some extra lube on the crank where the seal runs as it wont hurt.
Seal must be installed Dry, as the inner lip of the seal has a PTFE coating, and the crankshaft seal surface must also be dry for correct break in of the seal, per the service manual.
You can lightly lube the OD of the seal only to aid install.