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Quick question regarding engine light in VE. I have had the engine light come up (both little orange icon and big picture in centre of screen on dash). They have
stayed illuminated for 3 days and now have mysteriously disappeared. Will there still be a fault code logged when I take it in to be checked? Planning on taking
it in straight after Easter, but just want to make sure it can still be diagnosed now that it has gone out?
Yeah - should be a stored error code. More than likely your oil pressure switch...
Thanks Peter, that is what I was hoping. The car starts idling funny prior to the engine light coming on. Today ran like a swiss watch for about 2 hours of driving through AdelaideQuote:
Originally Posted by Peter B - CV8
hills and then whilst parking in Meadows all of a sudden starts idling rough and nearly stalls. When we came back an hour or so later, start her up and engine lights are back
on again.
Yeah Rod the E38 pcm will log literally hundreds of mils & store them till manually cleared.
That extra info will rule out the oil pressure switch then.Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACK 346
Any update Rod? :cheers:
Hey Ed. He has had to email EFI Live to try and get some info on what is triggering the engine light. The code was something to do with a brake pressure valve thatQuote:
Originally Posted by whitels1ss
is associated with AFM. The confusing thing is that AFM on my car has been switched off for an eternity, so he is unsure why it is even an issue. I dropped it
off this morning so that he can try a few solutions that they provided him with. Stay tuned :)
Yes, can sometimes be a PITA working it out.
How's the car going apart from that?
Apart from a slight occasional miss and the stalling that I assume is associated with the fault mentioned above it is going fine. Getting the gilmer belt tightened whilstQuote:
Originally Posted by whitels1ss
it is in the shop now that it has done a few k's and hopefully it will be 100 percent after that :)
Latest update. Spoke with Brad yesterday via phone and long story short, apparently the stock converter is causing all my issues. He has spent hours going over the tune and after
speaking with EFI Live they have come to the conclusion that the car is just making too much torque for the stock converter to handle. I will get a better explanation when I pick
it up on Monday, but the way it was explained is that the car is pushing against the converter and trying to take off, causing the throttle body to crack open when I am trying to
brake. Apparently a small stall converter will fix this. I always wanted to put a stall in it, but was advised by Brad that it will put a lot more stress on the trans. Looks like I have
no choice now.
Just make sure you have a good cooler to go with. Higher converter stalls generally cause more heat in the fluid and heat (along with excessive power/torque I suppose) is generally what kills auto boxes. Put a big external cooler on it and you should be fine.
Be interested to see what Stall GM use in the A6 with FI perhaps?Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACK 346
Good point IMO. I know loads of guys running very big cams and a lot of power in LSA's with the standard converter and they pull very quick 60 footersQuote:
Originally Posted by Micks
Given the 6L90 is not a direct bolt in for the 6L80 is it likely the converter will fit? (I know nothing about A6 converters.) :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Micks
You could well be on the money there Gaz ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Wonky