Yes that's right I went a bit bigger than I intended. I would pick the 2nd cam from your list, but I was more referring to the coments about low LSA numbers.
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Yes that's right I went a bit bigger than I intended. I would pick the 2nd cam from your list, but I was more referring to the coments about low LSA numbers.
Ah I see now, you're saying a 113LSA's possible shortcomings at lower rpm won't necessarily be a bad thing :) This is good news for Voodoo grinds :)Quote:
Originally Posted by hRTHSV
Very happy with the Elite Engineering oil catch can!
Now I need advice on engine oil coolers, anyone make a nice setup to suit?
Little jobs getting ticked off the list feel good :)
To do list:
- sort out a proper air intake
- clean up wiring spaghetti in driver's side engine bay
- delete that stupid vacuum ball
- connect fan adjust vacuum hose to vac so it won't be stuck permanently on feet any more :p
- connect up oil catch can (mounted, not plumbed in yet)
- get a new damn clutch!
- work out where a phantom annoying hot oil smell is coming from
- get brake lines made up so i can fit the VY R8 330s
- find a couple of minor bits of mulberry interior trim
- find some sv89 seats
- fix up the rear passenger power window which is stuck at the top
- sort out a shifter surround trim piece
- replace flogged out bushes in rear trailing arms that the minispool has killed
- instal 3.9s in diff or build a truetrac with 3.9s
- shroud the FPR properly with a stone guard of some sort
- wrap fuel lines in convoluted tubing to prevent friction problems on the top of the tank etc
- fix up the exhaust so it doesn't bump on the diff housing over big bumps
- probably more i can't think of off the top of my head right now :p
So why does it have a vaccum problem casuing the vent to always be on your feet?
direction of the vents is controlled by vacuum, which is fed by one little vacuum hose up the back of the engine bay. It plugs onto the V6 throttle body from memory, with the vac' ball/canister feeding from the same line.Quote:
Originally Posted by hRTHSV
I don't have anywhere convenient at the back of the LS1 to piggy back it onto a vac hose so it's been disconnected since the swap :p
also add 1 to the list: PIPE UP THE DAMN HEATERS, almost froze to death driving around last night!!
Anyone got tips on what heater hoses to use?? :S
Sam it should go on the back of the inlet manifold there is a little tree near the brake booster hose. VT - VZ use the same vaccum set up as VN to VS for the vents. I connected mine there VS V6 to Ls2 works fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by savage1987
found a video!! what luck.
start at around 1:45... [nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHd9s--Xj_E"]YouTube - ‪TEST AND TUNE AT TOWNSVILLE DRAGWAY 2011 AND THANKS FOR WATCHING AND PLEASE SUBSCRIBE AND COMMENT THANKS‬‏[/nomedia]
watching the rest on unbearably slow connection to see if there's any more in there
Also your beautiful VN is at 28:45 :goodjob:Quote:
Originally Posted by savage1987
Dan.
well spotted :)
shame they didn't film that run. maybe i did a shit burnout :(
I got around to doing the brake upgrade today.
The list of parts going on was to be as follows:
- 330mm VY HSV slotted rotors
- VY HSV twin piston calipers
- VN-VT adapter hubs
- s/steel braided hoses
- VS V6 booster
- VY V6 master cylinder
Started by modifying the VS booster according to this guide.
I moved the calipers aside and stripped everything off the front hubs, changed the sway bar links while I had plenty of space. For the first time in what feels like a long time I was pretty inspired/excited to actually get working on this again.
Discovered it could use new ball joints and tie rod ends, rack end boots and strut boots, those are on the to-do list.
Wiped everything clean and installed new wheel bearings, seals and the adapter hubs with plenty of fresh blue grease.
Installed the new QFM pads into the calipers, and removed the VY brake lines.
Installed the 330mm rotors onto the hubs. Pretty. :)
Removed the VN V6 caliper and flexible line from the driver's side, fitted the new setup. Looked like this:
http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/e.../IMG254-01.jpg
Trial fitted a wheel:
http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/e.../IMG255-01.jpg
Started working on the passenger side caliper and the 10mm fitting was pretty damn tight.. felt like it was beginning to round off with the open ended spanner. Here arrived a brain fail of colossal magnitude. I looked at the fitting, thought "a ring spanner will get this off". Only way to get at it was to cut the line beside it. Looked at the caliper and its line, thought "this will make this line worthless but that's ok because nobody wants VN V6 calipers anyway so I'll just throw them out". Got side cutters out and cut the hard line next to the fitting. The hard line. Hard line. Something doesn't seem quite ... oh damn. Damn damn DAMN that was VERY much the wrong thing to cut. Now I can't drive the car til I replace that whole hard line from the passenger side back to the master cylinder. What the hell was I thinking, I don't know how this happened. FAIL.
Gave up at this point since there was no reason to continue and I had other things to do, and I was SUPER annoyed. Left the car on stands for the night til I can HOPEFULLY get hold of a new line tomorrow. I'll do the rubber rack boots and tie rod ends too while I'm working in that area if I can find time to buy some.
So yep. I don't have a car I can drive at the moment. The 304 is out of rego til I organise an inspection and probably fix a bunch of stuff, and this car has no brakes. Little bit depressing really :(
Sam
Discovered I still need one more part to finish this off - a VS V6 reservoir. I thought the VN one would do but they attach differently so it doesn't bolt up to the VY master cylinder. That's an easy enough part to find :) so I'm not too worried.
I did manage to get myself a replacement hard line today, got that all fitted up this afternoon - not an easy one!
Fitted the VS booster and VY master cylinder. Only tricky part there was the hole for the brake pedal pin had to be widened by about half a millimetre in diameter. The coil pack I have stacked on top of the other one will need relocated as well :( a line from the m/cyl has nowhere near enough room.
I left it there for tonight since I didn't get any of the other new parts I wanted today. I'll try to get them tomorrow and continue with finishing off the setup if I get a little time.
The VY reservoir couldn't be used because it sits at a way wrong angle so the fluid level can't be done properly.
Picked up a VS reservoir
That didn't fit as easily as expected. Drilled some stuff and got it to fit up OK.
The hard lines interfered with my stacked coil pack. While I bumped it one spot forward some of the baked wiring snapped (whoever thought that wiring in contact with the rocker cover was a good idea should be shot) so that needed rewiring.
The new booster / mcyl setup is longer than the original so the bracket onto the strut tower needed modifying as well.
Oh and while I was there I changed the rack boots, and once I had both tie rod ends off and ready for new ones I discovered auto one had supplied the wrong ones. The thread was totally different. SOOOOO the shit ones went back on. I really really fkn hated cars/salespeople/life/the world at this point..
Put everything together, bled it and leak checked - all looks good! Brakes initially felt like shit of course but quickly picked up as they bedded in.
A couple of tiny adjustments are needed before I'm completely happy with it. I need to space out the strut tower-master cylinder bracket a little, because an unforseen problem reared its head when i pulled the mcyl slightly toward the strut tower to fit the bracket..... the pedal box rotated SLIGHTLY, but JUST enough that the clutch pedal now scrapes down the side of the firewall metal bulge thingo around the steering column and it's more than a little bit annoying. I dare say a couple of spacer nuts will sort this out. Apart from that, the brakes need a little re-bleed as I don't think they are quite perfect yet. The first little bit of pedal travel still feels a tiny bit spongy. And a wheel alignment is definitely required as I didn't count the turns taking the tie rod ends off (since I needed an alignment anyway thanks to a pothole) so there is MASSIVE toe out at the moment. Like I think almost 10 degrees massive. I'll do a butcher's rough adjust on it to get me by til I get around to doing new tyres and an alignment :)
and a quick pic of the two of them together :)
http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/e.../IMG257-01.jpg
did you modify the standard vt-vz shifter or make a new one up from scratch to go straight up?Quote:
Originally Posted by savage1987