Re: Errols FJ40 Build Thread
Power Steering Cooler:
Now in the original green FJ I mounted a power steering cooler on the side guard to leave space free for an aircon heat exchanger in front of the radiator. As this FJ wont have A/C, instead I decided to mount a P/S cooler in its place (in front of the radiator).
I had an oil cooler left over from another project….
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psiqje2rfs.jpg
So just needed to make up a bracket to bolt it into place. Started with the lower piece first…
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psxpdkfqyd.jpg
Drilled some holes for the bolts
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psuc3eljth.jpg
Now rather than having to stuff around during assembly with a nut/bolt, I welded the bolts to the bracket. This was they work as studs, so putting the nuts on should be simple (even after the radiator is installed).
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pslwjihruv.jpg
As you can see the studs come through nicely with a flat surface for the cooler to mount against.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8diuluz6.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psjktxujn8.jpg
Did the same trick with the upper mount, although this time had clearance to some right angle stuff for extra strength. Although during welding got a bit hot so bent slightly, but won’t be visible so I’m not worried.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pswtdpxj3w.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psjdseqdg1.jpg
Could now trial fit the cooler and brackets to the front of the radiator frame.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psb3aeeflf.jpg
Was now ready to weld the brackets to the frame
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psvdy30huy.jpg
Now that the radiator frame was pretty much complete (just waiting for paint), I moved onto the steering column.
Re: Errols FJ40 Build Thread
Steering Column:
Next step was to modify the steering column to suit the 2” body lift. Now most people just cut the firewall, but this causes a few issues (Steering column angle etc).
Instead we decided to modify the factory steering column and remove the rubber insulator pad. One of the issues with the standard FJ40 steering column is it has a bearing at the top (near the steering wheel) but no lower bearing. Instead it uses the steering box/rubber pad as the lower bearing/pivot point. This creates slop in the steering system and reduces “feel” on the road.
Instead I wanted to use a double unijoint setup for direct and precise feel.
Started by welding a suitable spline to a Unijoint.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psbkqct44p.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psi8isozjr.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psuabp5lhd.jpg
Then cut the steering column shaft to length and welded the unijoint on the end.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4gx3my4w.jpg
Then created a special plate and sourced an appropriate sized bearing to bolt to the inside of the steering column mounting bracket.
(Sorry I didn’t grab any pictures during this stage).
Once this was complete, I installed the shaft for a trial fit.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psr0hg50yy.jpg
As you can see the shaft is now held with bearings at both ends and no longer relies on the steering box.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psbrpnazjq.jpg
I then installed the steering column into the car and installed the second unijoint setup (Which was from a 60 series setup).
Now I could have just welded the 2 unijoints together on a solid shaft, but this spline setup allows the tub to move independently of the chassis without stressing the steering setup (This is normally the job of the rubber isolator).
So with double unijoints the steering is very precise with virtually no slack between the steering wheel and steering box.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psejvto6jv.jpg
Re: Errols FJ40 Build Thread
Radiator:
Once everything was dry it was time to permanently mount the radiator in the frame.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psetzi81uf.jpg
Started by sliding the radiator in
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psocd0q99l.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7tblnbfc.jpg
Now I needed to drill down through the frame and top layer of radiator so I could use pop rivets. In prevent myself from drilling too deep and hitting a coolant row I used a cork to limit the drill bit depth.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psz6mot8fm.jpg
Drilled through and put a couple of pop rivets in on the top side.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pspbyzemzh.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psmqvok8ce.jpg
Flipped it over and did the same to the bottom
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pse4m72mxt.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psixoxnpfa.jpg
Then added a few more on the top side and gave all the rivets a coat of paint
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psuolbebcc.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9h6uvknv.jpg
Now was ready to install the power steering cooler…
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pszhpzzfbs.jpg
Put some lock nuts on to prevent it coming lose
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pslsprxm5l.jpg
Now was ready to install the thermofans.
To get a tight air seal I added some foam around the edges where the thermofan would meet the radiator.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psyitqas3m.jpg
Mounted the fans on (you can see the wiring has been fixed up and its using the new BA style electric motors.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psrewlnuzv.jpg
However before I could install the radiator I needed to mount the water pump.
Re: Errols FJ40 Build Thread
Re: Errols FJ40 Build Thread
Re: Errols FJ40 Build Thread
Exhaust Hangers
Next up was the exhaust hangers. I had previously purchased a couple of lengths of 12mm solid stainless and mild steel rods.
Cut the rod at 45 degrees, then welded the 2 pieces together to create a 90 degree “bend”. Also welded a small “catch/tab” on the end of the shaft to prevent the hanger sliding off.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psjacw5zmz.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psujkndvm8.jpg
Now the next stage was to measure how much “stretch” the hangers have. Essentially weighed the exhaust section, work out how many hangers each section would have (so I know how much weight each hanger would be holding) then used a spring scale and Vernier callipers to work out how far apart the exhaust hangers should be.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2wykp49b.jpg
Now welding a round rod to a round exhaust is a little tricky, so I used the end of the belt sander to “grove” the rod to the profile of the exhaust pipe, which made welding it on much easier.
Starting with the mid/front hanger on the driver’s side (for the hanger next to the catalytic converter) as it’s the easiest…
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0mdjdvcs.jpg
On the passenger side I tried the same approach, but accidently ended up welding the right angle piece on a little high on the exhaust, so just needed to bend the top rod slightly. Still works perfectly…
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pslhocbzsc.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pslzkhyrl5.jpg
Now the mid/rear hanger on the passenger side was pretty straight forward, although as the exhaust was sitting above the chassis rail I had to run a long hanger from the exhaust to drop below the chassis…
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pszrebvo3u.jpg
On the drivers side it was a bit harder due to exhaust routing/lack of clearance
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psydu1jhar.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psxhsk8vl7.jpg
Now that the easy “mid section” hangers were done I moved to the front…
The front hangers were a little more complex as I couldn’t weld a rod directly to the chassis otherwise it would have been in the way if I decided to remove the exhaust.
The driver’s side wasn’t so bad as there was 2 spare nuts in the chassis, so I cut out a plate to bolt to the chassis and welded the rod to the plate.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psanfabppx.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psau8knq7p.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psje53b4pg.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psclfacsae.jpg
The passenger side was a little harder as there was no spare nuts, so I ended up welding 2 bolts/studs to the chassis instead. I figure it also might be handy down the track if I need to bolt something else on as I can reuse these studs.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psxbyaji5m.jpg
Now the front hangers are pretty important as you don’t want the weight of the exhaust pulling on the header, as it can cause the header to crack (especially if it gets really hot). So for this one I increased the distance between the hanger rods so there was substantial lift.
This was confirmed when I removed the bolts holding the exhaust onto the headers, the exhaust stayed pressed against the header rather than falling down.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psfwbhg1tx.jpg
Now that the front/mid sections were complete, I just needed to do the rear section. Now I was a little concerned with the amount of sideways movement in the exhaust (eg moving from left to right) so I decided to do the rear hanger on a 90 degree angle from the chassis. I was hoping this would prevent the sideways movement…
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7vrtvxfq.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pslhuoaqny.jpg
Unfortunately there was still too much “swing” for my liking. So I changed the design to a “twin hanger” setup, where each hanger is pulling against the opposite one.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pslmy3qv2j.jpg
This was a little more work, but really holds the exhaust nice and steady.
http://vid1224.photobucket.com/album...ps7bkgg3ia.mp4
Re: Errols FJ40 Build Thread
Re: Errols FJ40 Build Thread
Misc:
Few other minor things that were completed at various points over the last few weeks…
Installed the clutch slave cylinder
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pspoicgagu.jpg
Temporarily connected a heater hose between the engine and radiator. Added a T-piece with a block off so I can easily drain the coolant after the first run
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psupyivgyz.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psuku27ktv.jpg
Changed the bearing on the idler pulley
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pspnk2jqxr.jpg
Changed the harmonic balancer over for a new unit. The old one was pretty good, but had a little wear on the input shaft. As I need to remove the radiator to change it, figured it was better to do it now rather than down the track.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psljwrknlf.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psil8358jy.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psyjekptpo.jpg
Also filled the gearbox/transfer case with oil.
Re: Errols FJ40 Build Thread
Engine Preparation:
We were now ready to do the final preparation on the engine and getting ready for first start/camshaft break in.
Started by taking the plastic off the engine and removed the intake manifold
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pswzsi2mis.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psn2xnaeld.jpg
Filled the oil filter and screwed it on (We are using Valvoline Premium Mono 30 as it’s a special break in oil).
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pshhcqcaet.jpg
Filled up the engine and installed an old distributor (that we had removed the cam gear from) so we could pre oil the engine and a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Then using a drill spun the oil pump over and oil pressure increased to a steady ~70psi. Turned the motor over by hand to ensure all bearings etc were well lubricated.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pst47hfnfl.jpg
Next stage was to install the new lifters. We coated the cam lobs with break in oil, and soaked the lifters in the same oil before installing into the block.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psweufpt3p.jpg
Now we were ready to install the pushrods and rockers. Now there is a special method to setting these up properly…
We put the engine to TDC of cylinder 1s compression/combustion stage (So both lifters are fully down).
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psjahuq6np.jpg
We then installed both pushrods
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psrtrauoss.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psqbxhxzdj.jpg
Starting with the exhaust port new installed the rocker and tighten the nut until the slack disappears from the pushrod. As the purshrod is pressing against a hydraulic lifter it will slowly bleed down and some slack will reappear. It’s important to only tighten until the slack initially disappears and not to overtighten.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psa81sxk93.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0u9mfrsm.jpg
Now the important part: Tighten the nut one full rotation (360 degrees). This will apply the correct preload (by having some compression on the hydraulic lifter, as the oil pressure rises this preload will ensure there is no slack between the lifter/pushrod/rocker/valve).
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psv4j88iwe.jpg
As you can see, the hydraulic lifter is partially depressed.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pshhsyymxm.jpg
Now repeat the process for the intake pushrod/rocker. I apply another red dot so I know which ones are complete.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pstvqlyklu.jpg
Now that the first cylinder is done, we can move onto the next one. The trick is to rotate the engine 90 degrees (or 42 teeth of the flywheel if you have access to it) as this will move the next cylinder to TDC on the compression cycle (In this case the next cylinder is cylinder 8). 720 degrees of crankshaft rotation equals 360 degrees of camshaft rotation. Hence, 8 cylinders divided by 720 degrees = 90 degrees per cylinder. As there are 168 teeth on the flywheel, a quarter turn is 42 teeth (168/4).
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psslq71jym.jpg
Follow this process in the engines firing order for the remaining cylinders.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psszbbjjhm.jpg
Once this was complete, we set the engine timing to 12 degrees BTDC.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psqc1pywyz.jpg
We took out the old distributor we used for priming.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psfpvizm3p.jpg
Re: Errols FJ40 Build Thread
We are now ready to install the intake manifold.
First step was to install the thermostat and thermostat housing. I drilled a small hole in the thermostat to allow air to be bleed out and allow coolant to circulate. (This helps the thermostat open according to the real block temperature, otherwise you have to wait for convention to heat the coolant near the thermostat to cause it to open. Normally there is a bypass near the thermostat that does this, but we blocked it off earlier as the electric pump doesn’t have a provision for it).
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psbfqrr7sr.jpg
Installed the thermostat and housing onto the intake manifold
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pskahonkyv.jpg
Started preparing the block by adding the sealant and end rubber gaskets
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psdtti4wor.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psrqwnngsg.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4hce1j8y.jpg
We grabbed the intake gaskets and gave them a coat (both sides) of copper gasket sealant.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psqp7ghhzj.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psafvxmdfc.jpg
Placed the gaskets on the heads
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psbibzhhgk.jpg
Prepped the intake manifold
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psiibzdayd.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psc2crrh7v.jpg
And dropped it into place, Bolted it down and torqued up the bolts
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psfpu3grga.jpg
Installed both rocker covers, and prepared the manifold for the carby.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psocdsmr5e.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psdruvkucw.jpg
Now installed the carby, installed the heater coolant lines and the top radiator hose.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psaxjgvydx.jpg
Installed the distributor (which is why we needed the engine set at 12 degrees BTDC)
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pskdeusm92.jpg
Installed the spark plugs
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pspcsxmnzj.jpg
And put on the spark plugs leads (We will fix the routing later, for the moment just wanted them on so we could run the engine).
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psdc1zrcpl.jpg
Made sure all the vacuum lines were blocked
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psfkfnruce.jpg
Attached the oil pressure gauge and cable tied it onto the gearbox
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psq9uidgq4.jpg
Wired in a tacho
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5zo8cbnb.jpg
We also put the rest of the wiring on the engine, filled the radiator with coolant and fixed up a few other small things.
Re: Errols FJ40 Build Thread
First Start:
We were now ready for a first start…
http://vid1224.photobucket.com/album...pss3koyhue.mp4
Now as you can see at the end the exhaust headers are glowing red hot (Screen capture from the first start video)…
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psphfzgcpu.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pswfqwnfbg.jpg
We stopped the engine after about 5 minutes run time to investigate. Turns out the timing was significantly retarded which was causing the combustion to be pushed out the exhaust before it was finished burning, hence the massively high temperatures.
At 3000rpm with the vacuum advance disconnected we should be aiming for 34-36 degrees of timing. Once we chucked on a timing light and restarted the engine we found at 3000rpm we were running just 8 degrees timing… Not good.
So we advanced the timing and the change was massive… Basically I was reducing the throttle position yet the RPM was increasing as the timing was increased. Also the improvement in sound was pretty substantial.
We ran the engine in for another 15-20 minutes, varying the engine speed between 2500-3500rpm. Once it was run in we roughly set the idle speed. We still need to adjust a few things (including timing etc) but here is the engine idling after being run in.
http://vid1224.photobucket.com/album...psovx41kgc.mp4
Sounds pretty bloody good in real life. I was worried the exhaust would be too loud, but its pretty reasonable (less than 96db anyway) but has a very deep note to it. Plus as its stainless steel the note should get a little deeper after a few thousand kms and it carbons up.
Now I know in hindsight we should have had a timing light on from the start, but due to a few issues throughout the day it was around 8pm when we finally got it started (after starting the day at 9am). Had things gone smoother during the day we wouldn’t have been so rushed, so probably would have had the light ready to go. Lesson learned.
As predicted the polished stainless steel headers changed to a nice purple colour. I actually don’t mind the effect and will leave it as is.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pslpsndsjq.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pssk4fizrl.jpg
Once we were happy with the exhaust (no extra mufflers required) we were ready to fit the LPG tank.
Re: Errols FJ40 Build Thread
Re: Errols FJ40 Build Thread
Looking good!
Grab some ACL heat shield material for the ends of the tank Errol..
Also is the radiator rubber mounted?
Re: Errols FJ40 Build Thread
Hey mate,
Yeah, will add some shielding and contemplating either wrapping the exhaust or HPC coating...
And yes, radiator is rubber mounted and isolated. Will also check for stray current...
Update Time:
Chassis:
Spent a little bit of time cleaning up and rearranging a few things, starting with the Ignition Leads and some of the parts around the carby.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psoitndnpk.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2jw1h9mv.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psd1tfgfg4.jpg
I changed the shocks over to a set of OME Nitro charger that were originally on the Green FJ40 (pretty much new shocks).
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pscwqtmpun.jpg
Also fitted up a new handbrake cable and plumbed up the brake lines on the front/rear axles.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psogzcmw0i.jpg
Then fitted a breather for the rear axle
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psrm29ciho.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psypdz3v0y.jpg
The transfer case…
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psracmzytw.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psqfofbp2l.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pstxqtp09e.jpg
And the front axle.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psjyirff4z.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psl6yvgpxe.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psb53axo5n.jpg
Next step was to fit up the rear bumper (which was originally only the Green FJ40). I am planning on doing a custom rear tyre carrier for the Green FJ, so decided to reuse the bumper as it looks pretty good.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...pscobsrstt.jpg
Now that the chassis was pretty much complete, we moved it around the back so we could focus on the body.
Luckily it just fits under our rear veranda.
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...psfvvt7uqx.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8wx2hqqf.jpg
