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Ok, more old car issues. Just went to vacuum the passenger footwell and came out with a Dyson full of water. We have had some pretty heavy rain here and some of it has found it's way into the cabin unfortunately. Can anyone advise of the obvious places to check? Have done a search on google and the forum but only seem to come up with VE firewall leaks. I know the aircon drain can be an issue when blocked, my old man had that on his VG ute back in the day.
Yeah, I remember finding out the hard way back in the day with headers on the VT2 SS Mick. Great that these guys put all this in the package and save you chasing stuff up (provided you know/remember to do it prior to frying the steering boots).Quote:
Originally Posted by Micks
I keep reading about issues with the rear main seal if not put in properly? Is there some sort of aligning tool or way to ensure this is done properly? I see that you can buy the seal separately or the entire rear main kit, is buying the entire plate kit a better way to go, or just need to make sure the mechanic knows what they are doing? Not keen to spend 2k and end up with the same leaky motor.
https://www.maceengineering.com.au/G...57L-60L-62L-V8
Might be worth asking them if they have done any before
from what I have heard some people have had problems.
My lad has done quite a few,
I just asked him & he reckons that you don't have much problems
if they replace the entire plate as you pictured but they are more likely to have problems
if they just try & replace the seal. :cheers:
Thanks Ed, I think I will grab the one linked. It has been delayed until the 19th now as they are so busy, so have time to order it.Quote:
Originally Posted by whitels1ss
Windscreen seal perhaps?Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACK 346
Rod this post here http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthre...rear+main+leak is your friend ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACK 346
Thanks Mick. Is this what I need to replace the plastic barbell? Only one I can find in Australia.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micks
https://www.early-holdens.com/AF64-2125
Yes I bought similar, the extra plugs with the kit you won't use but I reckon the barbell is essential, especially if yours is original oem.Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACK 346
Ordered it this morning, thanks for the advice Mick, would not even have occurred to me to order one of these. Also got OEM Sump gasket and Oil pickup o-ring from Holden yesterday, $70 for both. Gave the rear main a miss from Holden though, they wanted nearly $370, got the same OEM item from Mace Engineering for $135 delivered. Can't wait to get it all done, bloody hate cars that leak oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micks
Also ordered some plates for her, GM V8, they take 4 weeks to make here in SA, which is probably super fast for Adelaide lol. The Calais has V8 GMH and I wanted GMH V8 but someone beat me to it unfortunately.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACK 346
You can order the rear main seal by itself without the whole plate assembly from Holden, I've done so a couple of times in the past around $40.
Replacing the rear plate is an unnecessary expense, when you can easliy reuse the original one.
There are 3 small cut aways in the rear plate, which enable you to pry the rear seal out carefully without removing the rear plate assembly, which you can see in my pic below.
I did this the first time I replaced the seal. Worked perfectly no leaks.
You'll have zero alignment issues this way, as the rear plate position is not disturbed.
https://i.imgur.com/ACA8h8k.jpg
The new OEM seal is shallower in depth (about 6 mm, new GM design) than the original GM Seal (about 12mm from memory).
When I replaced the seal the first time, I drove the new seal all the way home into the seat.
But in doing so, I couldn't use the 3 cut a ways next time to pry the seal out, as the new seal drove deeper into the seat and the 3 cutaways don't go deeper enough for the new shallower seal.
I shouldn't of drove the new seal all the way in, to still be able to use the 3 cut a ways.
So the 2nd time I replaced the seal (100,000 kms later for another clutch), I had no choice, and had to remove the rear plate to remove the seal safely without scratching the crank seal land.
Once the plate was removed, I could easily tap the old seal out my original plate in seconds, and reuse the rear plate after giving it a clean.
The Bolt holes in the rear plate are over sized to the bolts, which allows the rear plate to float around heaps in all directions when all the bolts are started and loose.
The hole in the plate for the crank, has to be perfectly centered to the crankshaft, so the seal will be centered and not loaded up to one side which will cause it to leak.
I installed the new seal in the original plate first, RTV'd the lower corners of the sump gasket and lower edge of rear plate aswell (for my extra OCD measure) then installed the plate with a new rear plate gasket, started all the bolts loosely and could see the seal was squished at the bottom by the lower sump gasket (not correct).
After much eyeballing and having to loosely tighten the 2 long sump bolts to draw the seal to center ( vertically ), and align the plate horizontal, (by pushing the plate side to side) I could see the seal was then correctly centered and not loaded up anyway.
I then torqued up all the 12 aft bolts, then torqued the 2 long sump bolts last.
I had a little residual oil leak on first start, but it cleared up dry in a few minutes once the new seal bedded in which GM says to install dry.
It's been 100% no leaks from the new seal since.
Plate removed and plate surfaces cleaned.
https://i.imgur.com/DK3fc34.jpg
New Seal installed with original plate.
https://i.imgur.com/hEv9zH0.jpg
That's my 2 cents, and the way I tackled it.
Great post, thanks mate. Now I understand where the alignment issue comes into it. I thought buying the plate and seal together would negate this, but apparently not.Quote:
Originally Posted by SASLS1
My system is the same as the loud system, But instead of just the straight through rear tailpipes. Mine have Hotdogs welded into them. Its a nice sounding system, bar the droning on the highway. But a small price to pay I guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by SASLS1
Doing it that way with seal already fitted to plate is hit & miss. Also contrary to how GM recommends it be done. Alignment tool is the best way & avoids any misalignment issues.. I'm not a fan of doing this job more than once.Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACK 346
One more stupid question, do you still use an alignment tool if replacing the plate and seal as one, or is it only used when doing just the seal?