Ah I see...thanks for getting back to meQuote:
Originally Posted by IJ.
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Ah I see...thanks for getting back to meQuote:
Originally Posted by IJ.
I'd think there would have to be a bolt in for your car Seldo!Quote:
Originally Posted by seldo
Very welcome!Quote:
Originally Posted by mechatron
Because I run mine back under the tray on the Tonner and already had eye terminals on my cables I figured stud mounts were easier than clamps or I'd have gone Yellow again!
Suitable from what point of view? As for fitment I know of a few guys who've used them in VE sedans to drive big amps etc and apparently no great drama. From memory I think it was Dean (EXCESSV) who was running dual D34s for his sound set up. :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by seldo
Mate's Grange's battery is on its last legs and he would just want a straight bolt-in with no rooting around.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wonky
The 35 (red top) and D35 (yellow top) are a drop in fit VT to VZ , not sure on the VE.Quote:
Originally Posted by seldo
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...ps704bdc14.jpg
I've read that the positive and negative terminals on the D34 YellowTop battery are on opposite sides compared to the factory fitted battery on a VT-VZ. Is it as simple as rotating the battery around 180 degrees so the power cables line up correctly?
Does the mounting plate or anything else need to be modified in any way or does the D34 slot straight in when rotated the 180 degrees?
The photo of the yellowtop on the previous page of this thread shows it to be exactly the same configuration as the century that I have in mine. So no changes required.Quote:
Originally Posted by mechatron
Edit: I see what you are saying, the D35 is indeed different to the D34. A quick google search shows the poles to be opposite. I guess it would depend how much play you have in your cables as to whether they will reach with the battery rotated.
Yep - the terminals on the D34 are opposite way around to usual. However, even given the very confined working space the VE ute battery is in behind the front passenger seat my auto elec was able to make the necessary modifications and install it in 10-15 mins. In the WM boot with easy access it should only take an extra minute or two Seldo, or get a D35. Lower CCA and AH ratings but still plenty enough for a car without lots of sound gear or other accessories.
From memory the mods required to make it fit in mine were basically trimming the clamps so the positive lead couldn't short on it. The battery itself went in the normal way so the leads had to be slightly rerouted to reach.
Cool, thanks Black 346 and Wonky
Thanks Wonks - That's the answer I was looking for. The car has no extra gear to speak of but does get left to sit for a few weeks at a timeQuote:
Originally Posted by Wonky
Anyone heard of or used a DEKA ultimate series battery. There's some on eBay for $250 plus freight. They are rated at 12V 800CCA (COLD CRANKING AMP) 85AH (AMP HOUR) 115RC(RESERVE CAPACITY). And like the D34 the positive terminal is on the LHS.
the Yellow top is also good for repeated re-charging. I have a electrical gremlin in my WH that keeps on draining my battery and I have a yellow top that I have completely drained half a dozen times, hook it up to a charger overnight and works great until the car is stationary for a while again....
DEKA have the 04 GTO listed in their fitment guide (should be same as VT-VZ) LINK , But the ones listed don't have the capicty of the one you are looking at.Quote:
Originally Posted by mechatron
Thanks mate. Below is the ebay link to the Deka battery. It does have the weird side mounted terminals though
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BATTERY-D...item43b6fe6784
i run a delkor 610 cca , they have 680 cca , don't know the AH , drop in fit on VY/VZ and a lot of bang for ya buck
shit just saw this 680 cca 99 bucks delivered http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DELKOR-12...#ht_4276wt_906