Coolant in transmission

Thanks for the advice - unfortunately I'm not a DIY with this type of issue.

There have been some developments although causation is not clear at this stage.

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Originally Posted by ATOMIC MALOO R8

cooler will have lots of pressure engine running

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Originally Posted by IJ.

Depending on how restrictive the stock cooler is probably around the 35psi mark Woody

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Would not have thought it would be that high. Not familiar with flow path of return oil but sounds a bit restrictive?

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Originally Posted by Micks

Going by most you did extremely well outta the factory Rad!!

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Got out of car smelled coolant looked and thought will need a new one of those. Next trip (down town the next day 5-10 one way) and it blew as driving in the drive way.

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Originally Posted by Woodchukka

No telling when it might have occurred exactly however likely from the old radiator. The coolant will change the properties of the oil and can cause all sorts of dramas. It might be worth trying to put new oil in, take it for a drive (1/2 hour?), drain hot then new oil and filter and see how it goes.

Going to ask that all coolant changes were only using say the red coolant and not switched between red and green? They do not play well together.

As a side note bought a radiator for the wife's V6 VZ for $90 delivered from eBay and looked exactly like factory one. Been in a bit over 6 months (12 month warranty) and no issues as yet however don't expect it to last forever but factory blew seal in end tank at 165000 or so.

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My Clubby (M6) has had Green Coolant in it since I've owned it (7 years now and only travelled 30,000Km). It has been changed a few years back (had to replace radiator end tanks due to split). I recently bought 2 containers of red coolant to change it, but haven't done it yet. Is there any advice going from green to red.

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Originally Posted by redvxr8clubby

My Clubby (M6) has had Green Coolant in it since I've owned it (7 years now and only travelled 30,000Km). It has been changed a few years back (had to replace radiator end tanks due to split). I recently bought 2 containers of red coolant to change it, but haven't done it yet. Is there any advice going from green to red.

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Flush it like you should anyway

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Originally Posted by redvxr8clubby

My Clubby (M6) has had Green Coolant in it since I've owned it (7 years now and only travelled 30,000Km). It has been changed a few years back (had to replace radiator end tanks due to split). I recently bought 2 containers of red coolant to change it, but haven't done it yet. Is there any advice going from green to red.

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Mine had the green coolant in it when I bought it. When I changed to the red I flushed the cooling system then ran just water in it and after a few runs to work drained it and refilled with water. Did that 3 times. Could not see green tint to water after the 2nd flush but went a third time to make sure. Over kill... maybe but time wise it doesn't take long and I have had no issues.

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Originally Posted by The_Senator

$7k... Jesus!!!!

Holmart have 6 Speed Auto's for $2600... Where's the rest going to? Removal and Install?

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Yeh $7k is BS.

Talk to Kewish about it, I hear they are the people to deal with for A6's.

My suspicions were right, the non genuine radiator supplied by the dealer was the culprit. It's a pity it destroyed two transmissions in the process (brand new transmission from Holden started to fail within 2 days of getting car back).
The car now has a new genuine GM radiator & fittings and a brand new transmission and appears that all is good now. The radiator supplier is now getting an $8.5K bill from the dealer.

Good to see it resolved. Pity it caused you so much trouble.

Yes it just proves the non-oem radiators are not worth the risk.
Only non Oem parts in mine are accumulator pistons in the trans, sonnax make better self guided ones (duel seal, billeted aluminium vs OEM pin guided plastic).