Beg or borrow a dehumidifier would be an other option
Stu
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Beg or borrow a dehumidifier would be an other option
Stu
lmao, 4 days, ill take that challenge once again. see u tomorrow mateQuote:
Originally Posted by klink
haha yeah well the missus goes into hospital wed for an op so was heading down there to look after the kids for her as its school holidaysQuote:
Originally Posted by sikss
Daniel the fact ur opening your workshop on a public holiday to look at my car and help me out shows the lengths you go to when it comes to customer service. thx
Well, the coolant leak persists, heater tap was not the culprit. After more searching, probing and prodding (and a nasty header burn :mad:), I have traced it to somewhere in the vicinity of the side of the motor in between the 2 rear spark plugs and just below where the extractors bolt on to the heads. So in other words an absolute bitch of a place to actually see where it is coming from. You cannot see it from below and you cannot see it from above, you can just see the coolant pooling there. I have washed it off and gone for a quick drive and sure enough it is back, but if I shine a torch and watch it, nothing happens lol.
I am tossing up the idea of just throwing a radiator stop leak in and seeing what happens. What are poeples thoughts on this? Is it a bad idea? I hate putting stuff like that in my cars, but just a bit over this car at the moment, it gets treated so well, has had a lot spent on it and rarely gets driven, yet it is starting to get annoying problems. I guess it is just getting old.
Ok, 99 percent sure the leak is a weeping head gasket. I have access to a full workshop with pit on sunday so hopefully will be able to confirm for sure from below. If it is, would it be worth me trying a retorque of the heads to see if it stops the leak? I believe 22fl/lbs is the correct setting? Can I cause any harm by doing this?
head bolt torque as outlined in max elery
step 1: all bolts M11 and M8 30nm
step 2: M11 bolts tighten a further 90 degrees
step 3: bolts 1-8 tighten further 90 degrees
step 4: m11 bolts 9 & 10 50 degrees tighter
I had had a leak with small amount of coolant ending up on the right hand chassis rail and dripping off that. I nopticed the other night when I had the heater on full blast when I got home that night, in the morning there was a much much bigger pool of coolant. feeling around the heater hoses running from the water pump to the heater tap (I take it the heater tap is the thing with the vacuum solenoid off the side and with two hoses in, two hoses out) I found a damp area so in taking the hose off the heater tap connection self destructed (or perhaps had already broken up and was the culprit), so out that came, what an absolute pain in the arse job, mine still had all the crappy pinch together clamps, I take it when you guys are talking about better clamps you are talking about getting the screw drive style?
ANy idea on the cost of a heater tap? Can you get them from Repco/AutoPro?
Cheers, Matthew
Heater tap is about $35 from Holden, will cost you more at Repco.
Yes, use the screw type clamps