Mick has sent you an email ;)
Printable View
Mick has sent you an email ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Camos
Great work mate! :goodjob:
congrats (message to short)
Got the gearbox issue sorted. After chasing the wiring for the whole day I looked at the VSS and noticed that the machines hole in the housing seemed a little small because the VSS oring was showing. So I pulled the oring out and the sensor sits closer to the reluctor.
Man the Hilux is quick lmfao.
Still lots to tidy up but she's on the road :yahoo:
Man I'm glad you got it all sorted & mobile, particularly quick too. If IJ was still around, would be proud of your achievement. :goodjob:
That was quick work!Quote:
Originally Posted by Camos
Fantastic stuff mate! :goodjob:
Any more pics?
Wiring taken care of... For now. Have rolled it all up and pulled the inside out of the upper glove box. The PCM is in the lower glovebox all outta sight. Need to remove a ton of unused wires then pull the dash out and tuck it up and away in there somehow. Might be quite a few pondering beers that weekend
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psmpvg5jg9.jpg
Engine bay is still a bit of a mess. Lots of tidying up to do there. Rerunning 4wd vac lines etc
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...pspgha5zkv.jpg
The air box is in serious need of attention. My efforts at plastic welding to the existing box, although totally awesome lol, don't give her the air to breathe when stomping on the skinny pedal. It starves and dies in the ass. Nearly turns the air box inside out in the process.
I am thinking of fabbing up a SS or ally box with big OTR style intake and a butterfly to switch to snorkel when needed.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...ps6kyzv6ls.jpg
Still to successfully get the stock temp gauge working so flying blind a bit at the moment and making me a little nervous driving.
It overheats sometimes and I thought it might have been an airlock. Lots of bleeding and filling I think I have it but still taking it easy and staying close to home.
The radiator I had to drop about 100mm so the intake could fit on. Not sure if having the radiator so low could be causing some issues there also.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psok1odco1.jpg
Clearance is pretty tight so don't have much room to move things around down there.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...pscuzijqez.jpg
Still only a 2wd ATM, the front prop shaft hits the sump of the 4l60 so will do a diff drop to give some clearance
All in all it is coming together and is sooo fun to drive now. I took it for a squirt down our street with the Mrs. And there was a woman at the bus stop on the side of the road when I planted it she put her hands over her ears :lmao:
That is a big tick in the success box
Overheating issues I believe are now sorted. Drove to Blacktown with the new temp gauge normal and no overheating.
On way back I pulled over to double check and went to put back in D... Nothing. WTF!
Turns out you need to put the torque converter in the bell housing when mating it up to the engine and not the other way round.
Result...
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psffzevnfu.jpg
Now back in the garage and attempting to pull the box out from underneath to swap out the oil pump.
Note to new conversionists, put the torque converter on the bell housing first.
Thanks for the liking my ute on the back of a towy guys lol.
Well gearbox is out and it's only 245am, easy done.
Would have been so much easier to do with engine, box and Tx case on the floor.
Those torque converter bolts were a bitch. The plastic cover around starter wouldn't come off and wasn't able to get the starter bolts off. Had to drop the sump and access it through the crack with 4 extensions and a socket.
There were 2 bolts on the Tx case that weren't accessible so the whole lot had to come out in one piece. Had the floor crane through the shifter hole and a jack under the sump. A shit load of wiggling lifting pulling grunting cursing and beers we got her out.
Not looking forward to the install.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...pse8251zlb.jpg
The bell housing torx bolts are my favourite.
Got them all out bar 2
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psug3vihot.jpg
Here is Camos rooted oil pump. He is now noting the 2 broken tabs and see where they locate into the notches in the TC
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psz7clwh0l.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...pst9mskd6d.jpg
Been speaking with a transmission guy in Girraween who has been such a help with getting the girl back on the road. Vey knowledgable and wish I had the same conversations prior to doing the work. Live and learn though.
Good to see it won't be a hard fix mate.
You would get some puzzled looks driving that around with the V8 sound theme going on.:lol:
Your not the only member here to xp that swapping in & out of A4's :lol:
Your Giraween must be different to ours. Ours would knock it off not just talk about it...
Picked up the parts today and raced home to continue operating on the girl. Pulled an all nighter finishing at 5am when the alarm went off to get up for work. All done and dusted, ready to take to work.
Only problem is didn't have enough O pos to fill her up :cussing:
Going to steal the Mrs car, going to be pissed about walking the kids to school after coming off night shift
After topping it up with oil she's as angry as ever and back on the road, very happy bowt that.
I'm now planning to lift the radiator and make an air box so did some googling for inspiration and came across an ls1 Hilux.
The throttle body was bolted to a 90deg elbow so it came out to the side rather than facing forward and using the bent intake pipe.
This put the bend at the intake manifold rather than 20-30mm after the throttle body giving significant clearance at the front. Every mil counts :lmao:
The donor car worked for marks and was an R&D project for future kits etc so I called and said it wasn't something they went on to manufacture but had one on the shelf. Was after $325 ish for it and I politely declined. Anyone know what this part is called and where I might be able to source at a more reasonable price?
I have googled my little ass off but came up empty handed, probably because I am not using the right term.
Cheers
Good stuff mate! :goodjob:
Care to share the link? Would be good to know exactly what you are referring to...Quote:
Originally Posted by Camos
Cheers
EDIT - http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...e-elbows.shtml
Alternatively, if you've got a pic i reckon it would be pretty easy to weld something up. Buy a 3.5" mandrel bend, cut some plates out (using the TB as a template) and weld onto the end. If you were in Melbourne id give you a hand...
EDIT 2 - Im thinking something like this but much less crude...
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CPXNGsQ5cX...0/IMG_3149.jpg
I'm certain you could get one fabbed up, but whether it would be keener than $325 is another thing?
That's the sort of thing I'm after.
I was looking at the Edelbrock elbows. They are for a carby intake to mount an Ls TB onto but was going to try to modify it. The TB is a 3 bolt and looks like it has a few bolt hole patterns on the TB side. The manifold side is a 4 bolt and might be able to be modified to work.
Here is the link anyway: http://www.4wdaction.com.au/forum/vi...?f=22&t=152142
And the pics in question
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psfg1orync.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psaffjqyho.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psged4mhmf.jpg
This is my current setup with the existing air box
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psok1odco1.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...pscuzijqez.jpg
I am in Sydney but have fam down in Melb and would consider heading on down to make it up if your keen. Call me weird but I would rather make it up than buy it off the shelf, even if it costs the same or more to do. Love the learning experience.
Yep... Weirdo lol
What's your idea for the Rad fix?
It drove fine into Sydney this morn and over heated while parking with the expansion tank bubbling away like nannas kettle. Seems to be fine while driving along at speed with more airflow. The throttle position could have something to do with it. Will refrain and take it real easy for a bit, just so hard to fight the urge to hear that growl.
If I can move the throttle body I can lift the rad back up and the fan will cover better and be more effective.
Will then sort out a shroud and may even put a second fan on.
I have the fan on a relay that comes on with ignition and stays on the whole time. Just until I get it sorted and are confident the PCM will trigger the relay when needed.
My boggle at the moment is that the old temp sender I put in a sender housing like a radiator hose joiner and wired it directly up to the gauge.
When the thermostat opens and warm water starts to circulate the needle moves up to where it should. But it does t move higher than that. When it over heats you would expect the needle to point high but doesn't.
What sort of angle do you want? (Exactly 90 degrees?) and what sort of bend radius?
If it was me doing it i would buy a 3" or 3.5" Stainless Steel Exchange Mandral bend from here...
http://www.performanceexhaust.com.au/~5165
http://www.performanceexhaust.com.au...STEEL-EX/15384
http://www.performanceexhaust.com.au...TEEL-EXH/15386
3" $30, 3.5" $65 or 4" $70.
Then get some ~10mm stainless steel plate, cut a template out and weld the pipe in place.
If you genuinely want help i will actually be doing a similar modification/project in a couple of weeks. Can probably knock something up then...
Thanks a million Feistl, it will work out and looking forward to seeing your artwork as it's being created.
Still having overheating issues, if I drive it ever so gently and keep moving at 40-50km/h + it seems to go aright but as soon as you go up a hill at low speed it labours a bit and expansion tank starts boiling.
I had an epiphany yesterday that it might be the rad cap. The cap was replaced because the seal was split and is rated at 88kpa where the old one was 108kpa.
I noticed that the commodore caps are around the 125kpa which will significantly increase boiling point of the coolant.
So my questions are these: If I replace the cap with a 125ish rated cap
1 - do you think that an increased cap will prevent the coolant boiling and operate at a normal temp instead of working against the thermostat by reducing flow to increase temp and cause boiling?
2 - any thoughts on the additional pressure on the radiator, will it blow a seal or something?
For those following along at home, i spent a bit of time on Saturday trying to make up an intake pipe but unfortunately it appears the quality of the 3" mandral bends from the Vermont exhaust shop are really low quality. Spent hours trying to weld something up, but just kept blowing holes and wasnt happy with the quality of the welds.
I am going to go back to Richard at Rowville Exhaust Shop and try ordering some more 3" mandral bends, as he provided me the 2.5" bends for the FJ40 exhaust. They were much higher quality and a lot easier to work with.
The other thing I was going to suggest is maybe have a look at Penrite Racing Coolant...
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/product...id_products=98
No idea if it works, i am going to try some in my VX shortly. From my research it seems to have a positive effect...
Also, (not sure if i missed it) but did you post some pics of the thermofan setup?
As for the radiator cap question, not entirely sure. I would assume a higher psi cap should be ok.
Other question is do you have an overflow tank (eg plumbed in on the pressure side) or how are you filling it up? You'll need a reservoir above the engine height so you can bleed the system properly. It might be that you have too much air in the system which would cause the boiling and performance issues...
Cheers
This was an issue that took some thinking and effort to solve. Yours is an earlier model than what my friend shoe horned his LS into, but it looks rather similar as far as the problems you are having.
Try having a read through this..
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Cooling/
Tend to agree with Errol, if you have an oem rad with rad cap type filler similar to our VZ 5.7-6L models. It then needs to be plumbed the same as VZ LS1 would. Otherwise you need an active/pressurized type tank as fitted to the VT-VY models. Either method should work ok.
I love this site, everyone is so keen to jump in and help out just because they want to, thanks so much everyone for the input.
Went in search for a higher rad cap and highest I could find for my style rad was 16psi so I put it on and it all seems fine, hasn't had an issue since and I have been stuck in some pretty heavy peak hour traffic.
The system is using an expansion tank from the old engine and plumbed up the same as the LS engine with the exception of the line that comes from the TB. It used to go to a port on the pressure side of the rad but now tees into the return line of the heater hose. I bought a temporary digital water temp gauge and put it in just to monitor things while ironing out the bugs, reduce my stress levels while driving around more than anything. A bit on edge ATM, a bus goes past making a hiss and I'm ready to pull over and check things out.
Still wanting to lift the rad though and then will sort out a shroud which will help immensely.
Next project is to remove front diff and rebuild or put in a truetrac and do a diff drop at the time so I can connect the front prop shaft. Still only 2wd because the shaft hits the gearbox sump but should clear when dropping the diff an inch.
New sump turned up today - yay.
Cost me $50 - double yay everywhere else your looking at $500
The old one that I welded up was weeping like a kings cross hooker amd made me nervous like it could spontaneously implode.
Going to be a pain to swap out, need to lift the engine or drop the diff to get enough clearance to get the rear out.
Going into the engineer on Sat so don't want him to see the chicken shit and leaking oil on the sump.
Can anyone tell me if the power button particularly on a VY, does it illuminate when in power mode or out of power mode? Or does it display on the instrument cluster when in power mode?
Cheers
For anyone doing a conversion and wanting to get the reverse lights working with a 4l60... I have worked it out.
Searching google won't shed any light so I though to put it here to help the next guy out.
The white plug in the passenger foot well has 2 wires, a green with silver dots and a brown with blue trace. For a VY/z anyway. Other models may have different colours but still be on same connector.
Snip them and connect one to 12v ignition and the other to your lights. The park neutral switch will close the circuit when reverse is selected.
Obviously do a resistance test with a multi to make sure before snipping and soldering.
Temp gauge is still giving me the shits. Stock one reads normal all the time after the thermostat opens and doesn't move up even if engine gets hot.
The digital gauge is cactus, works occasionally when feels like it.
Started making up an adaptor to relocate the TB.
Used a spacer as a template and used plasticine and formed over the spacer.
Then poured cornice cement over and pulled out the plasticine. Then used resin and fibreglass mat to create the flanges. Sorry didn't get pics of this process.
I used a length of pbc and filled it with expanding foam and then the old pie cut trick to get the bends how I wanted.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psvy9u7v6h.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...pslbmcimjy.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...pscoq1fjji.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psezi8pho0.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psjhzp30ei.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...pssaqasvh8.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psfpps41ed.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psvrbmfcyt.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...ps3mrq8wwm.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psa17wepre.jpg
Started wrapping in carbon fibre. Not as easy as first thought, but then again it's a fairly complex shape for a first attempt... that's how I roll
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...pshrbyxcul.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psj184xk5p.jpg
Geez....:shock:
You are not shy to have a go at making things yourself mate! :goodjob:
Final epoxy coat on the adapter. Came up really well and happy with the result.
The air box in the background had a little bit to go and will be ready for the weekend
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psliaeivvj.jpg
Final coat on air box, finally. Need to weld up the end cap and polish. Looks a bit ordinary in the pics when wet with light reflecting off it but really looks the goods.
The inlet pipe is offset to line up with new position of the TB.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...pspt70rtme.jpg
It fits and the bonet even closes :yahoo:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psbnhhefe0.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...pskgxsiczi.jpg
It certainly doesn't look outta place! :thumbsup:
The air box bracket to use existing bolt holes
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psg2rmnmhc.jpg
Ran a bead of silicon on the first layer, then put 2 more layers over top. This gave a ridge down the length and added a shit load of strength.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psgicz45yb.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...pslzw6nc51.jpg
Next is the air box for the pod filter. Polishing up end plate tonight and will mount the MAF on the pod and join to TB with sexy silicone hose.
That is unless any other suggestions come forth.
I was going to make up a carbon tube but though might be too much.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...ps3hszxgxm.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psttpupzmc.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...pswixhumup.jpg
Still needs a bit of tidying up but this is the general idea.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psshr7rwt8.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psjeaa0khx.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...psrtkix2xe.jpg
Looks brilliant Cam! Probably a lot safer than it was too. :thumbsup: