This might have been covered before but do all rims from vy onwards fit over Ve rear brakes. Also can the standard Ve wheel nuts be used or do you have to get different ones. once again sorry if this has been covered again. Cheers
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This might have been covered before but do all rims from vy onwards fit over Ve rear brakes. Also can the standard Ve wheel nuts be used or do you have to get different ones. once again sorry if this has been covered again. Cheers
Do you want to fit them on a VE, or over VE rear brakes attached to something else?
Pre-VE rims won't fit on a VE - different sized centre IIRC. You can machine VE wheels to fit pre-VE but a bit harder to add material to a pre-VE wheel to make it fit on a VE :)
Dependent on rim perhaps hub rings could be used.
Cheers
MC
Want to fit on Ve. As the centre bore is different will have to use hub rings. Just need to know if any 17x8 from vy onwards will work?
Give dioxide a PM he bought my VY SS 18 x 8 to fit on his VE..he'll know exactly what you need
http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/member.php?3430-DioXidE
I have a set of 19" HSV VZ R8 rims and they do not fit a VE, the stud size in the wheel is too small on them along with the center bore needing a CBL ring to center the hub.
Some other wheels will fit but be aware of the stud hole size as well they will need to be approx 14.5mm dia to fit a VE.
why would you need hub rings the center doesnt take the load its the nuts and there surface do, even when you use ve on vx to vz you should use the right nuts not the stanard vx to vz ones. So if you put vx to vz rims on a ve you would have to get the nuts to match the radius otherwise they dont seat right and you will have problemsQuote:
Originally Posted by etrocket
Oh dear. I think you'll find its the hubs job to support the weight, not the studs...Quote:
Originally Posted by tacka007
"wrong" the hubs do take the weight of the wheels and if your car has wheels with oversize bore holes and you are not running hubrings and you have an accident from loosing a wheel your insurance could be voided.Quote:
Originally Posted by tacka007
The studs and nuts take the rotational forces .
Oh yeh and your done this have you the nuts are just there for looks there is no load on the centre what so everQuote:
Originally Posted by surfwagon
Are you a bit lost? The hub supports the weight/shock of the car, the studs/nuts support the rotational forces.Quote:
Originally Posted by tacka007
If you look at any four link that has been built most won't even have a locating ring on them it's only there to help centre the rim when putting in on does not carry any load what so farking ever:stick:Quote:
Originally Posted by SirNemesis
:popcorn:
Are we gunna see R2:box:
Soemone wants to run some et streets by the looks
Back to the question, I have found vy ss 17x8 wheels. Will they fit as I don't want to buy them and be left with rims I can't use. They are 5 spoke from memory.
May as well not even use wheel nuts - surely the wheels should stay on due to the weight placed on the studs. :doh:
And to reduce more weight I might bore the wheel centre out as far as the holes for the studs. Can't understand why all wheels are not made this way if what 007 says is true.
Yes they will fit as I am pretty sure they ahve the same offset as belowQuote:
Originally Posted by etrocket
I can fit 17x8 VYIISv8 rims straight onto our VE
As long as you get the profile of the nuts you will be ok, but vx to vz nuts will not fit onto ve as ve run bigger studs therefor wont fit, when you fit ve rims to a vz you will see that the surface of the nuts dont fit right into the wheel surface and run the risk of collasp not saying they will but has greater chance thats why you can buy nuts now with vx vz stud size and the ritght pitch for them wheels. As for the hub ring problem that we seem to be having an issue with next time your out check out some trailers the ones, you tow THEM behind your CAR that you put lots ov WIEGHT in because losts of them wont have a locating ring HUB RING at allQuote:
Originally Posted by Jamolad
Quote:
Originally Posted by tacka007
Explain how some people with VE's using pre VE wheels (where the wheel hub is too big for the VE hub by approx 2mm) are often snapping studs, and those using hub rings to make a proper hub fit do not have these issues??? Guess it must be voodoo hey.....
So my ve genuine 275wheel on my vu should have fallen off my ute with 1000 rwhp. No that's because I done it properly and replaced all my wheel studs with ve ones and used ve nuts. If you want to think the a plastic ring will help that's fine believe in what you want it's not rocket science
So you didn't go look at some trailers did youQuote:
Originally Posted by Roonstain
That is the opposite way to what is being spoken about here - you would have had to take off 2mm from the centre of the wheel to fit over the VU hub - what you do with the studs is your own business - I think you need to read the initial post more carefully, as well as other repliesQuote:
Originally Posted by tacka007
Been looking at trailers all weekend at summernats..........Quote:
Originally Posted by tacka007
Oh, and as someone who has a few sets of pre VE wheels that I use on my VE, the hub rings are a god send - there is no way in hell that any of them would go on the car without them.......
wrong again, i have to use 18mm spacer that bolts to my original hub and my 275 bolts to that they sit in fresh air, the only thing that holds them on is studs and nuts so what you are saying is they should have fallen offQuote:
Originally Posted by Roonstain
I'm saying you must be very lucky at the moment - or crazy - or both!
I'm telling you MY experience with putting SEVERAL pre VE wheels onto my VE
Here is another LS1 members knowledge based on a fair bit of research:
Quote:
The spiggot on the hub needs to be a snug fit inside the center bore of the wheel. This is designed to take all the load on the wheel. The wheel studs are there just to keep the wheel snugged up against the hub and transmit the power and braking loads. I've seen plenty of incorrectly fitted alloy wheels where the car is snapping wheel studs because the center bore on the hub dosent match.
Wheel studs and bolts etc are strong in tension not in shear loads. The grooves for the threads provide handy stress risers for a break to start in. This is one of the reasons wheel nuts are usually countersunk head. The countersunk head transfers part of a shear load into a tension load. The slope of the nuts shoulder trying to push it out when a shear load is applied accross it (if that makes sense).
I did a heap of reasearch into this when I set up my pin drive wheels on the Cobra.
Cheers
WTF? The hub rings that I got with my rims are plastic - there's no way that they're meant to withstand any load from the wheels. You put any load on them and they'll snap like a twig. In fact, one was broken from shipping when I got them. Tacka has it right - they're just meant to help center the rim on the hub. I have drove around without any on with no problems while I was waiting for replacements. In fact, everyone I've talked to about them has said that they're really not necessary, and I've stopped using the ones I had
They help centre it, which will reduce the vibrations that inevitably WILL snap the studs
The holes for the studs are bigger than the stud, so if the wheel isn't 100% centred by the hub, there will be movement/vibrations, which will snap the stud eventually
yes you are right thats all they do is help centre the wheel but if you take your time putting the wheel on or use the right wheel nuts for that wheel there is no need for them.the whee:teach:l stud itself should never rest againt the holes only the nuts should toutch the rimQuote:
Originally Posted by Roonstain
A little off topic but interesting non the less.
I dont know whether hub rings are necessary or not but I have a few observations.
Every factory car rim I have ever seen is a firm fit over the hub centre, they must do this for a reason.
I had a car with aftermarket rims (supplied and fitted by a tyre shop) that didn't fit the centre hub exactly, had the wheels on the car for 6 years, many long trips, big burnouts, nitrous and 12.5@111mph, never broke a stud or had any wheel related issues, did brake a 4340 axle though.
Trucks with spider hubs have nothing locating the outer rim other than the studs and cleats, and they never have issues.
As for the studs not being put under sheer loads... what happens when you brake hard, the brake assembly is trying to pull the hub to a stop, the road is trying to keep the wheel spining at speed, this force would be effectivly trying to rotate the wheel on the hub, the hub center is of no help here since the force is rotating around the hub centre, the only thing preventing this from happeing is the wheel studs and the friction created between the wheel and hub with properly tensioned wheel nuts, so either the studs are being put under sheer load or the friction between the wheel and hub is great enough to resist this force.
Cars with centre nuts (eg. V8 supercars) still have drive lugs where the wheel studs would have been suggesting that they are required for some other reason than holding the wheel on, without some sort of nut on these drive lugs the only force that can possibly be put on these lugs is sheer force.
Lastly regardless of whether a firm fit over the hub centre is 100% necessary or not, I think it's definately better to have a firm fit than not have one.
bobcat trailer pic for all the trippers-
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...V8/hubring.jpg