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Can anyone point me in the direction of a 5 inch or approx 125-130mm holesaw that would last long enough to cut 2 holes for my cooler pipes in my inner guards? I was going to plasma cut but i want a neater finish, my old holesaws are so knackered they can barley scratch the paint, what brands have you actually used on metal and had last more than 30 seconds? Ive tried a few brands over the years and most die too quick.
ive got 1 you can borrow if u need, im in pakenham, it does stainless fine so will not have a drama
Mate Im happy to buy one as id hate to chew yours out not that i think it will, Im in paky a bit though so it could work....this turbo is killing me 4 inch cold side, 5 inch inlet and 5 inch dump pipe my poor cars going to be like swiss cheese.
Sutton. Use these heaps at work. As long as you use a cutting fluid/lube as required, should last a long time. Seen more hole saws get damaged from being dropped or crushed than wearing out.
What do you normally use to lube, i tried a few cutting/cooling sprays over the years but i find most burn more, so in the last couple of years i just use a spray bottle of water.
Rocol RTD fluid works for me
Wheres it normally stocked? Tool shops? Nut and bolt? I gotta paint the engine bay monday but want to cut the holes first so i dont burn the paint.
Blackwoods, Coventry's etc over here. Will still heat up if your cutting thick stuff but when it starts to whiff a little smoke load up some more. Ive cut 3-4mm plate using it and not had a drama
Trefolex is also good but smoke is toxic apparently, good for tapping etc
Ill give it a crack, i usually plasma thicker stuff but i dont want to mess this up visually too much, thanks for the info.Quote:
Originally Posted by DREADVE
The amount of vapours ive inhaled over the years hasnt killed me i doubt trefolex will, i might head out tomorrow and have a shop around.Quote:
Originally Posted by DREADVE
+1 for Sutton. Use them at work and they are pretty durable.
http://www.sutton.com.au/Products/holesawssawblades/
We use this cutting compound...
http://www.hispeedtooling.com.au/wp-.../05/rocolb.jpg
+1 on the Rocol, i use the spray when drill mechanical tees into schedule 40 pipe and it works a treat.Handy tip for those not used to holesaws,drill your pilot hole without the holesaw on the arbor.Ive lost count how many guys ive seen mess up a surface when that holesaw bites when they try to pilot/cut all in one action,especially on the bigger saws.
I'll head down to total tools on Monday and see what I can find thanks for the info guys.
HTC One XL 2
no offence but it sounds like you don't know what you are doing. Try cutting at a slower speed with steel, faster is not always better! oh and as above use a cutting oil!
Hate to break it to you but I'm not exactly new to drilling, cutting or working with sheet metal I was looking for advice as to what brand hole saw would be capable to cut 2 holes in the inner guards after that it will most likely never be used again, I ask this question to avoid throwing money away on tools I will never have a need for again as I no longer in the trade I can't justify nor afford to spend more than I need to get the required result , but thanks for the personal attack and useless contribution to a thread that was thoroughly answered by people who do have a clue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Plenty
HTC One XL 2
Also when cutting and drilling most lubricants are not oils as such, oil based compounds tend to increase the heat and reduce the efficiency of the cut, what's the bet this thread turns to shit as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Plenty
HTC One XL 2
Haha love the old 'no offence' b4 having a go at someone like it makes it all good
Had he read the question properly and had half a clue he would have realised when I said "30 seconds" I wasn't being literal.... These days it seems less people are keen to help or share what they have found to work or little tricks of the trade but would rather take personal stabs and belittle people no doubt to make their own existences seem more worthwhile.
Personally unless I'm fairly sure I know what I'm talking about or at least belive I'm on the right track I keep my mouth shut, of course not everyone understands how to behave like an adult.
HTC One XL 2
no offence to you either! BUT what plenty said about SPEED is the KILLER of ALL TOOLS.
a slow cutting speed on a 125 mm dia hole saw would be as slow as you can make your drill go, think of it as if your sitting on a merry go round. in the centre it spins slowly and don't have a problem sitting, but move out to the outer edge and hang on for your life. it's still travelling at the same RPM but the surface speed is greater the bigger dia.
so if you can get your drill to spin @ 10 RPM your cheap hole saw will last all day. it's the cutting speed thats killing your hole saw.
only ever used Trefolex.
Garry
Got to admit that first thing I thought of was speed of cutting bit as well.
GT-I9100 2
Exactly!Quote:
Originally Posted by RARASV8
At the end of the day mate i wasn't trying to belittle you, just stating the obvious that you were cutting too quickly. The other advice to use an "oil" was also stated so what more did you want.... For your application a petroleum based "oil" would be just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by kayman
Sorry if it upset you.
Used trefolex and a brand new rather pricey saw, not at 10 rpm but at 120 and it cut like butter and the saw is fine, no one's upset especially not me I've just got a low tolerance towards posts which are clearly assumptions, my motto is if you can't be helpful keep your mouth shut....but as we keep seeing on ls1 these days it's far more important to belittle without any actual facts on hand.
As for the thread thanks to the guys who read it and helped and well the other couple of you can now move on and do whatever it is you do on here.
no need to be so precious! in the end you used a cutting compound and also cut at low rpm, glad it got sorted for you!Quote:
Originally Posted by Nutter