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Does anyone mix motor oil. Using edge 10/60 at the moment but want to add half 0/40 with it to thin it down a bit. I find the 10/60 puts too much drag on the motor. Castrol tech said it would be fine to do but all I really need to use 0/40. I'm thinking this would be the best of both worlds, there both pao and castrols two best oils.
Has anyone tried this before?
Im starting to think the same mate. Im using 10w60 but i might change back to a 50 especially in the cold weather in Canberra and I have a front mounted oil cooler so the oil would stay cold for longer. I havnt tried 0w in a V8 used to run it in my turbo 4s before ok.
Drag? how so ? Increased fuel usage?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratsmow
Anyway oil cap says 5/30 , it'l be fine , more then enuff for Albury's cold mornings , 5/40 would be fine too,
even 10/60 is rated down to -20 deg C , but probably better for the hotter days.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/2...temp-range.jpg
Viscosity and friction are not necessarily related. Have a look at the link below and compare the 0W-40 to the 10W-60. It was in another post that I can't find at the moment. What leads you to believe that the oil causes more drag? Maybe at colder temps? I can't say I have ever seen any noticeable difference in economy with different weight (or brand) oils.
http://www.lessfriction.com.au/results/0W40/
You might find some interesting reading in the thread I have linked below.
http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthre...89#post2109389
Xuv my engines only makes 240 rwk exhaust and tune only, so it's not as powerful as some. I had 10/50 elf in prior and I noticed straight away after oil change the motor didn't spin up as quick and it uses 1-1.5 litres per hundred, so I can only assume it's from the oil. My engine has only got 28000 ks on it. By the way I only use it on decent country runs, no traffic, 100ks an hour most of the time so my fuel usage is accurate. Make of it what you will but these are the facts. I can only assume in a less powerful engine the spin up speed and fuel consumption becomes a factor.
Woodchukka what about hths, surlely that has to be a factor in a less powerful engine. It may not be noticeable if you have 300 rwk but 240 is not 300 so I believe it's noticeable with less power. What do you think.
I'd say it's a crock of shit. Parasitic losses within the same brand of oil... or any oil would be minimal at best as long as it's good quality.
Differences in 'seat of the pants' will be far more likely to be outside temperature, weight load and tyre depth / warmth.
This oil sounds too good to be true.......Quote:
Originally Posted by Djbarnstar
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4762R...zVlUpftnQcpiq6
Sorry post number 6 is 1-1.5 litres per hundred more in fuel .
We've done it with kart engines and I know the junior dragsters use a super light weight oil to gain every last hp.
Drain the oil and go back to what you were using. See if the fuel consumption comes back.
Generally, my last consideration is fuel consumption, my first is protection.
I'd go back to elf but I can't get it in albury, pita. I'm not concerned about the fuel usage either really, just want my free spinning motor back. I don't want to change oil brand as I've always used castrol with good results. Had 3 cars with over 300000 ks on each with no oil related problems. That's good enough for me. Wish they made a 10/50 which is what I was hoping to achieve by mixing the two oils.
Just pull it down and knife-edge the crank.:driving:
http://images.penriteoil.com.au/imag...s/HPR10005.pngQuote:
Originally Posted by Ratsmow
The guys that blend and distribute this oil are in our club. From everything I have seen, their claims are true. Club members that are using it swear by it, would never use anything else. They even offer an 'oil analysis' service. Once you have done your oil change, you send in a sample and it will get independently tested. Report shows if there are any trace elements of metals that could indicate a problem with the engine, or petrol in the oil. That kinda thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by whitels1ss
Much longer intervals between oil changes are recommended too. I think (but dont quote me) it is 30,000k's for a road car and 50,000k's for a diesel truck.
So all in all if seems like pretty good stuff.
As I said I can't say I have ever noticed a difference personally. I have no reason to doubt you noticing a difference. There would be some loss if the oil pressure increased as it would take more to push a higher pressure however the question is how much? Oils can lose some viscosity if they are pushed hard enough. I have experienced higher oil consumption and minor leaks when changing between brands however that returns to normal after the new oil has had a period to run in. Maybe see how if feels with a few more KM's on the oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratsmow
Well for those that are interested I drained 2.5 litres of edge 10w60 from my sump and added 2.5 litres of edge 0w40 today. Was very apprehensive about doing it but used like for like oils and I'm glad I did.
Went for a 150k drive mainly 100k winding roads, average fuel went from 12.4 to 11.8 l/100. Just a slight decrease in oil pressure at idle(just a tad below 3bar). Engine temp dropped a tad as well. I think the engine was livelier than before so I'm glad I did the exercise. Also there was no noticeable increase in engine noise, I think my engine is relatively quiet so happy days.
Why not just use the correct viscosity oil to begin with? Never understand people mixing oils...
For that to mean anything you would have to confirm it by going back to Mobile 1Quote:
Originally Posted by edelbrock1
What do you reckon the correct viscosity is? Dont tell me whats written in the owners manual. I wanted to use castrol cause it's always worked for me. I wanted to run a group 4 synthetic in a 10/50 cause it's about in the middle of what most people on here use and recommend. Castrol don't make a 10/50 so this is what I came up with. This was the only way of achieving what I wanted. I previously ran elf 10w50 which I can't get where I live anymore. 10w60 was just a bit to much for my type of use so this is a happy medium.Quote:
Originally Posted by RUN41T
Interesting concept but wouldn't it be easier to use the 10/50 Penrite I posted earlier?
It would definitely be easier but I've heard so many fors and against with penrite, sludging etc., was really tempted but edge 10/60 gets the gong on here so I just wanted a thinner version. Hence the mixing. I also didn't want to swap brands cause so many guys have complained of noisy engines after swapping brands. It's worked for me so I will run with it for now.
Is it not written in the owners manual? Do GM not pay engineers to determine the specific oil for the engine? I understand there are some variables in extreme weather conditions, However in 99% of cases the oil viscosity quoted by the manufacturer is correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratsmow
If you are in the 1% why not get an off the shelf oil to suit instead of playing chemist with part a and part b?