Radiator & Coolant for VY LS1

Hi Guys, my existing radiator is cracked and I’m in the process of selecting a new radiator, new hoses and coolant and just needed to confirm a few things:

1. Is an ADRAD a good choice for a radiator?

2. A lot of people talk about Nulon products so I wanted to try their coolant. Which coolant am I best off getting out of these two?

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OR

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3. I haven’t been to the shops yet to read the instruction labels on these coolants, however can I mix with out of the tap water or must I use demineralised water?

4. With a new radiator and everything flushed, how much coolant/water mix do I need? 12L, 14.5L??? And is it generally 50% water, 50% coolant?

Thanks guys

14.3 litres according to Nulon website. Yes the concentrated coolant is 50/50 and I would highly recommend demineralised water. Any reputable radiator shop should be able to supply a decent radiator. Maybe even try Holden to see how much an OEM one is?
Edit: Holmart have radiator for VY V8 for $155.

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Originally Posted by BLACK 346

14.3 litres according to Nulon website. Yes the concentrated coolant is 50/50 and I would highly recommend demineralised water. Any reputable radiator shop should be able to supply a decent radiator. Maybe even try Holden to see how much an OEM one is?

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Thanks for the reply buddy. So does that means I’ll need 7-8L of coolant instead of 6L? Or could I just use 6L of the Nulon coolant and 8.3L of demineralised water? Would that be ok?

I would buy another litre bottle of coolant. Also good chance to change all those horrible hose clamps to the worm gear style if it hasnt already been done :)

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Originally Posted by BLACK 346

I would buy another litre bottle of coolant. Also good chance to change all those horrible hose clamps to the worm gear style if it hasnt already been done :)

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Yeah that’s probably a good idea as I just actually found my owners handbook and it did indeed confirm 14.3L for coolant capacity. Thanks buddy

Recommend the red GM oem coolant, not the aftermarket premixed stuff.

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Originally Posted by Micks

Recommend the red GM oem coolant, not the aftermarket premixed stuff.

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I agree with the above, I have had my VX SS for 18 years and always used the original Holden Dexcool coolant, changed ever 5 years. My mechanic carries the genuine Holden coolant, he checks the glycol level of the coolant each service.

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Originally Posted by Drewie

I agree with the above, I have had my VX SS for 18 years and always used the original Holden Dexcool coolant, changed ever 5 years. My mechanic carries the genuine Holden coolant, he checks the glycol level of the coolant each service.

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I reckon it actually works out cheaper buying this & mixing yourself.

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Originally Posted by Micks

I reckon it actually works out cheaper buying this & mixing yourself.

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Thanks Mick. With the red coolant from Holden, do I just need 5L (of coolant) and fill the rest with water or do I need at least 7L of coolant (with the rest water) to completely fill the new radiator and overflow?

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Originally Posted by mechatron

Thanks Mick. With the red coolant from Holden, do I just need 5L (of coolant) and fill the rest with water or do I need at least 7L of coolant (with the rest water) to completely fill the new radiator and overflow?

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No different to the Nulon concentrate, it is 50/50. I run the GM stuff in my Calais and Nulon in the other 3 cars plus my old mans. Not sure if you csn get the GM coolant in 1 litre, I bought 10 and had a lot left over.

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Originally Posted by mechatron

Thanks Mick. With the red coolant from Holden, do I just need 5L (of coolant) and fill the rest with water or do I need at least 7L of coolant (with the rest water) to completely fill the new radiator and overflow?

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Pretty sure it's 4/5L bottle.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-...-/261909136419
5 Litres and is about the same price over the counter from Holden if my memory serves me correctly.

Hope it isn't the same stuff that they use in the US? Can't seem to find a date on the article even to see how old it is?

https://www.consumeraffairs.com/news...m_dexcool.html

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Originally Posted by BLACK 346

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-...-/261909136419
5 Litres and is about the same price over the counter from Holden if my memory serves me correctly.

Hope it isn't the same stuff that they use in the US? Can't seem to find a date on the article even to see how old it is?

https://www.consumeraffairs.com/news...m_dexcool.html

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Yes I rang Holden yesterday and they quoted me $65, so very similar.

If I’m replacing the radiator and hoses (& clamps) should I also replace the thermostat as it is 14.5 years old?

Just fixed up the little typo on the thread title for you.

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Originally Posted by whitels1ss

Just fixed up the little typo on the thread title for you.

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Thanks Buddy :)

Genuine GM radiator ordered and I decided to get the Nulon long life red concentrated coolant (not pre-mixed) so I could buy the 6L and 2.5L bottles. Just need to get new hoses, clamps and a thermostat

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Originally Posted by mechatron

Genuine GM radiator ordered and I decided to get the Nulon long life red concentrated coolant (not pre-mixed) so I could buy the 6L and 2.5L bottles. Just need to get new hoses, clamps and a thermostat

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Sounds good. How old is the water pump? My VT2 SS gave up at about the 100k mark from memory, radiator went at about 105k (split side tank).

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Originally Posted by BLACK 346

Sounds good. How old is the water pump? My VT2 SS gave up at about the 100k mark from memory, radiator went at about 105k (split side tank).

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Hmmm, I did think about the water pump and it hasn’t been changed as yet. My car has only 81,000kms on the clock but it is over 14 years old too. Maybe I get this changed too at the same time?

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Originally Posted by mechatron

Hmmm, I did think about the water pump and it hasn’t been changed as yet. My car has only 81,000kms on the clock but it is over 14 years old too. Maybe I get this changed too at the same time?

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Should you replace the pump, careful who you buy off, got one off evilBay for my 6L a few yrs back & would not seal off at the heads!! Ended up with one from supercheap & it was a beauty!!

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Originally Posted by mechatron

Hmmm, I did think about the water pump and it hasn’t been changed as yet. My car has only 81,000kms on the clock but it is over 14 years old too. Maybe I get this changed too at the same time?

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I would give it a visual check whilst you have everything out, I know this is not going to be conclusive but you will at least be able to spot any leaks. If you want to spend the money then I guess you could just replace it. Is it a daily driver? How many k's are you doing each year? If the car is a weekender I would just take a punt and leave the current pump in if it aint leaking :)

https://alanmancestore.com.au/genuin..._content=store

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Originally Posted by Micks

Should you replace the pump, careful who you buy off, got one off evilBay for my 6L a few yrs back & would not seal off at the heads!! Ended up with one from supercheap & it was a beauty!!

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Good advice, thanks bud

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Originally Posted by BLACK 346

I would give it a visual check whilst you have everything out, I know this is not going to be conclusive but you will at least be able to spot any leaks. If you want to spend the money then I guess you could just replace it. Is it a daily driver? How many k's are you doing each year? If the car is a weekender I would just take a punt and leave the current pump in if it aint leaking :)

https://alanmancestore.com.au/genuin..._content=store

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Yes we’ll have a good look when everything is out. My car is only a weekender and hardly gets driven fortnightly. Kilometre wise I’d probably do maybe 2000km per year. And thank you for the link for the pump, they’re really not expensive are they

Actually just another question. Am I meant to use any coolant pellets/tablets when I fill my new radiator with the red long life coolant?

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Originally Posted by mechatron

Actually just another question. Am I meant to use any coolant pellets/tablets when I fill my new radiator with the red long life coolant?

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No not really necessary, you can get an electrolysis check if you want. As you found most times these rads fail due to flexing/cracking at the pvc tanks.

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Originally Posted by Micks

No not really necessary, you can get an electrolysis check if you want. As you found most times these rads fail due to flexing/cracking at the pvc tanks.

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Thanks for the very quick reply Mick :)
And yep that’s exactly what happened (cracking on the passenger side PVC tank)

Yes both my last VY & VZ's all rads that failed were at point of attachment of tanks or tank cracks never a core blockage or failure.

Btw don't overlook the Chinese rads, bought a VZ 6L Man one from Regents Park in Syd off a fella brand new 2yr warranty $105 delivered to the door.

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Originally Posted by Micks

Yes both my last VY & VZ's all rads that failed were at point of attachment of tanks or tank cracks never a core blockage or failure.

Btw don't overlook the Chinese rads, bought a VZ 6L Man one from Regents Park in Syd off a fella brand new 2yr warranty $105 delivered to the door.

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I wonder why GM decided to use PVC tanks on their radiators? Was it to reduce weight or costs?

And great suggestion Mick, however I’ve just recently purchased a genuine GM radiator. Also white lie suggested that I replace the heater tap while changing out the radiator. Do you think I should stick with a genuine heater tap or are there some perfectly good aftermarket ones available (like Dayco & Gates)?

Replaced my tap on the VZ about a yr ago with the dayco one, no problems. If you do suggest changing out all four hoses at the same time. When you fit them do it all outside the vehicle so you only have to do the final connections to the firewall & the block, otherwise it can be very fiddly doing up hose clamps around the heater tap insitu. Don't forget to put the vac line back on the heater tap actuator too.

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Originally Posted by Micks

Replaced my tap on the VZ about a yr ago with the dayco one, no problems. If you do suggest changing out all four hoses at the same time. When you fit them do it all outside the vehicle so you only have to do the final connections to the firewall & the block, otherwise it can be very fiddly doing up hose clamps around the heater tap insitu. Don't forget to put the vac line back on the heater tap actuator too.

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Wow that’s really great advice mate, thanks heaps for all of your help :)