VY SS Wagon - Suspension Advice

Howdy all, it may be time (260,000km) to do some suspension checks/changes to my wags, as she's feeling a little sloppy.

I've done a couple of shocker changes and sway bar upgrades over the years but still running the OEM Fe2 springs and it may be time to look at a complete refresh.

Can I get some thoughts on the types of packages that folks use (not looking to lower it or track it, as it's still my daily; But, I do like have the odd spirited drive around the hills where I live.)

I live in Belgrave Vic, so also looking for some advice on a trusted shop that I can get advice on this topic.

As always, thanks once again for the advice guys and gals.

Cheers,

Franga

I would be very cautious about buying a strut brace because of clearance issues with the supercharger.

I have a Harrop HTV2300 on mine and I had to remove my Whiteline brace because I did not want it hitting.
I know your HTV1900 sits a bit lower but I think it is something to be aware of. :cheers:


I replaced all the bushes on mine with SuperPro a little while ago & just run heavy duty struts & shocks with stock springs
& I have an Eaton Truetrack in the rear to keep it a little bit straighter.

It's certainly no roundy roundy track car but it is a huge improvement on old worn out stuff. :yup:

Something else I found to tighten up the ride on these.......

Often the plastic on the door strikers wears out & breaks away causing the doors to rattle on the catches.

Attachment 9227

Last time I looked they were about $18 each on ebay new or you can do what I did & get them for about $2 each from the self serve wreckers.

Gee it made a massive improvement to mine as the plastic stuff was gone on all of them.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whitels1ss

Something else I found to tighten up the ride on these.......

Often the plastic on the door strikers wears out & breaks away causing the doors to rattle on the catches.

Attachment 9227

Last time I looked they were about $18 each on ebay new or you can do what I did & get them for about $2 each from the self serve wreckers.

Gee it made a massive improvement to mine as the plastic stuff was gone on all of them.

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Just had a poke around for some new and second hand jobbies ........... I think a wreckers trip is needed .......... just saw a pair of brand new OEM strikes for $1,200 .... just what is going on with bloody holden parts and indeed cars ....... are we that stupid these days that wqe will let our selves get ripped off to such a degree . Oh my lord!


HOLDEN COMMODORE VR VS VT VU VX VY V2 VZ DOOR STRIKER SET (2)
Item information
Condition:
Brand NewBrand New
Quantity:
Last one / 3 sold
Price:
AU $1,200.00
or 4 payments of AU $300.00 with Afterpay

Just get stuffed! Is it time to look at selling my Wags I wonder ............ just flabbergasted

Is the part number 92178627?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by motomk

Is the part number 92178627?

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Yes that is the one I was talking about.

I can't see any bargains online at the moment but a couple of listings on ebay
are selling some pre owned ones with no plastic insulation at all left on them with condition listed as "good used." :doh:

For Sale 2 x 92178627 $1199 each or $2700 for the pair, absolute bargain ;) 🙃
Call knife-industries c/o motomk spares department.

I should go & get some at my local wreckers & advertise them for $200 each.... plus postage. :idea: :lol:

Sounds like there is a niche refurbing these with some sort of plasti dip or whatever the original process was

Bit better priced.... not me.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/224885380453

I do have 2 others if you want them.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by motomk

Bit better priced.... not me.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/224885380453

I do have 2 others if you want them.

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Awesome mate!

I might be a bit late, but I've done the following in varying forms.

New rubber bushings throughout is pretty good start. Whiteline/SuperPro/Nolathane is the next level of tightness, it can feel a bit firmer and NVH will increase. I don't mind the extra NVH, but I don't daily it anymore and I've got all the poly bushing I can fit.

As for shocks and springs, I've had the adjustable Monroe front and rear which you can fit a stock style spring to. These were fine for general duties and cruising with FE2 and Super Lows. They were a bit lacking control wise on bumpy roads and or twisty work. Large brakes and wheels give a lot of weight hanging off them outside.

I recently moved to some HSDs for the street car, a smaller diameter coilover/machpherson strut. Front and rear adjustable height etc. On the full softest setting, I found them firm but controlled. I actually prefer them over factory setup, price is very reasonable. This is running an 18" VY R8 wheel with 235/40/18 front 245/40/18 Federal RSR-RR on about 28psi cold.

Another option is to run a basic shock/strut combo but go to an adjustable sway bar front and rear, this can help move the grip around the car and help with the side to side loads. It is another option that I think people dont consider. Its also not that dear, Whiteline have them on eBay atm for $550ish delivered.

Also, tailshaft donuts and new CVs/Shafts for the diff, awesome change and will tighten a tired car right up!

Cheers Duke, had not considered new drive shafts/CV's, they are probably a little tired by now (as would be the tailshaft donuts) ..... I'm getting a bit of a list together again now (the minister ain't gunna be happy)... Oh well, she didn't want to finance a new VF, so just gunna have to suck it up I guess.

Just as well I've got a bit of a bouns coming and it will be tax time soon enough ............. that's gota help the situation (I hope ......)

Keep the comments coming lads, they are all very helpful.

As always, thanks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FrangaFry

Cheers Duke, had not considered new drive shafts/CV's, they are probably a little tired by now (as would be the tailshaft donuts) ..... I'm getting a bit of a list together again now (the minister ain't gunna be happy)... Oh well, she didn't want to finance a new VF, so just gunna have to suck it up I guess.

Just as well I've got a bit of a bouns coming and it will be tax time soon enough ............. that's gota help the situation (I hope ......)

Keep the comments coming lads, they are all very helpful.

As always, thanks.

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Whilst the tailshaft is out check centre bearing as well. I also replaced the diff mount and rear cradle mounts and put the Superpro diff insert in. Lots of labour in there, but worth it I reckon, tightened up the rear end of my ute quite a bit.

Ok lads, work bonus has just come thru.......... so, it's time to pull the trigger.

Anyone have any recommendations on a suspension specialist in the outer eastern suburbs of Melb ...... not so keen on Pedders as I have had mixed experiences with them in the past (enough said)

I've already been down the shocks, springs, swaybar route and want to step it up this time, so as well as inspecting and (if needed) replacing some of the issue we discussed above (i'm sure a lot of what I have already done is shagged out by now), I want to look at some coilovers. I think I have enough $$$ to cover what I want to do so would love to hear folks thoughts on a decent brand/setup (longevity in mind so prepared to pay a premium).

I have poked around a fair bit recently and there seems to be a myriad of coilover suppliers/brands but all don't seem to be created equally.... Yeah, I do like the Fe2 height and a big part of coiloverrs is the ability to lower but I am more interested in getting a better experience on the twisties (although being a wagon, I do still load the sucker up every now and then so the ability to stiffen and raise the rear end appeals as well) ......... I have had a few different brand shocks in my wags over the years and although they have made a difference, I always end up thinking it could be better. Yes, it's a daily (but not so much city driving these days and more hills based spirited driving) so I can deal with a harsher ride (and the kids are bigger now, so not stressed about banging them around so much any more LOL and the wife doesn't drive it or get in it often WINK).

Who's running what, and who can share their thoughts on where I am heading and what I should be considering.

So, once again, putting it out there to those who know much more than I ever will.'

As always, thanks lads. You are always my 'go to' when I need advice.

You've got the cheaper end of the spectrum, HSD, BC Racing, Pedders, Ceika, Tein(at the lower levels if you can get them anymore, they often come up second hand), that make kits. Then you can get Koni and Bilstein cartridges built into a factory lower. There is MCA at varying levels. Then you've got SPAX at Suspension Concepts.

A lot of the cheaper ones are made in a very similar location.

Ive had Pedders, they were Ok but under sprung and under dampened in my opinion. I've had QA2's and once I got the spring rate right in the rear, using a semi comp tyre could put 500rwkw down on the street in 2nd gear... I've currently got HSDs in the same car and I really like them for the $1500 I spent. Firm, but well controlled. Good enough to win my class at the last hillclimb.

I've not sampled the rest, BC was a close second vs the HSDs for a cheaper coilover for me. I was prepared to spend MCA Red type money, but didn't get great vibes from their technical support so elected not to go with them. SPAX looks really promising including the fact there Improved Production Cars that are winners with his suspension setup. Again though, $2-4K like the MCA Reds.

Thanks Duke, what sort of warranty do some of these come with - is it dependent on where you get them fitted?

I really don't want to have to do it twice as this may be the last big upgrade for the old Girl and I want to make sure I do it right and get the best I can afford. I have the budget to get it done properly this time. Was looking at the MCA's but not sure I needed to go top of the line with the reds. I'll check SPAX out as I had not come across them as yet.

Cheers for the pointers.

If you think of anything else that may be helpful, I'm up for it, as I'm a nuffy ...........

What about getting them fitted? Any experience on where to get it done as clearly it's waaaaaaaay beyond my pay grade ..... WINK

I'm about to pull the trigger on Shockworks coilovers. I've been waiting a while but they are apparently on the boat over here. Certainly worth a look. Im in Sydney but I think these guys are in Monbulk, Victoria. I looked at MCA as they are true coilovers front and rear but can't be sure of the legalities for their rear kit design. I also really like the philosophy behind Shockworks.

I've had Tein Coilovers before in my Monaro but the Shockworks coilovers are replacing Bilstein and Eibach traditional strut and spring combo. I want more adjustability and customisation. Will see how they go.

Warranty is typically 12 months if you or a pro installs them. It is mostly a very easy job that any mechanic can handle(its 4 bolts for the front), just make sure you use a good wheel alignment place afterwards. I prefer places that can provide replacement parts especially when you race them, they do die.

Shockworks are also good, I dunno how I forgot them!

The HSD rear adjust the height of the spring seat, so looks and feels like a factory setup. The rear strut towers are NOT rated to take the load of the car and the rear shouldnt be used like that!

Howdy all, I'm pretty keen on the MCA Pro Sport or the Shockworks so have reached out to both suppliers for some details (leaning towards Shockworks at the moment as they are just around the corner LOl).

So while I wait for some feedback, I'm looking around for some CV's/drive shaft and some tail shaft coupling donuts.

Once again, all things are not created equal here ........... so wanting some more guidance again please. Given I'll most likely need to replace both donuts (front and rear), can I get some thoughts on these (as they seem considerably cheaper ........ but GERMAN!)

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12138634...3ABFBM1uPAo4Jg

These seem too good to be true .....
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/38375610...UAAOSwkzVffrHB

Or should I just be going OEM ....
https://www.ebay.com.au/p/544140185

In regards to CV/Drive shafts ....... again OEM or aftermarket? I know the old adage "they are the fuse of the drive line", so I'll not be looking at super heavy duty ..... but good lord, it seems every bugger makes a set of these and some get some really bad reviews? Any comments to point me int he right direction. I don't really want to get any good seconds from the wreckers (but it is an option ...........)

Once I get my head around this, I think I'll then start picking your brains on what other suspension bits and bobs I should be looking at getting (Nolathane/SuperPro etc and where) ..... maybe I should get down to the local garage and get it up on a hoist first to see the condition of the existing stuff (as most of this gear was replaced but quite a while ago now).

For now I'll just concentrate on the donuts and CV's/drive shafts....

Starting to get a good little list going now ............. $$$$$$ ... Ouch

Cheers Lads (and lad'ets)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FrangaFry

Howdy all, I'm pretty keen on the MCA Pro Sport or the Shockworks so have reached out to both suppliers for some details (leaning towards Shockworks at the moment as they are just around the corner LOl).

So while I wait for some feedback, I'm looking around for some CV's/drive shaft and some tail shaft coupling donuts.

Once again, all things are not created equal here ........... so wanting some more guidance again please. Given I'll most likely need to replace both donuts (front and rear), can I get some thoughts on these (as they seem considerably cheaper ........ but GERMAN!)

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12138634...3ABFBM1uPAo4Jg

These seem too good to be true .....
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/38375610...UAAOSwkzVffrHB

Or should I just be going OEM ....
https://www.ebay.com.au/p/544140185

In regards to CV/Drive shafts ....... again OEM or aftermarket? I know the old adage "they are the fuse of the drive line", so I'll not be looking at super heavy duty ..... but good lord, it seems every bugger makes a set of these and some get some really bad reviews? Any comments to point me int he right direction. I don't really want to get any good seconds from the wreckers (but it is an option ...........)

Once I get my head around this, I think I'll then start picking your brains on what other suspension bits and bobs I should be looking at getting (Nolathane/SuperPro etc and where) ..... maybe I should get down to the local garage and get it up on a hoist first to see the condition of the existing stuff (as most of this gear was replaced but quite a while ago now).

For now I'll just concentrate on the donuts and CV's/drive shafts....

Starting to get a good little list going now ............. $$$$$$ ... Ouch

Cheers Lads (and lad'ets)

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https://www.hardyspicer.com.au/wp-co...-CV-Joints.pdf

RCA-1061 I believe are the ones you are after, VX V8 Auto front and rear.

Thanks man,

are the bolts on the existing units re uasble, or are they one use jobbies and need to be replaced?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BLACK 346

Whilst the tailshaft is out check centre bearing as well. I also replaced the diff mount and rear cradle mounts and put the Superpro diff insert in. Lots of labour in there, but worth it I reckon, tightened up the rear end of my ute quite a bit.

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This the one Black?

https://www.holmart.com.au/holden-ta...ii-vu-v2-vx-vy

Next time I'll walk over to the Eastern Suburbs with those parts - Just looked on Auspost and they've gone backwards! :(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by motomk

Next time I'll walk over to the Eastern Suburbs with those parts - Just looked on Auspost and they've gone backwards! :(

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LOL ........... it's all good Nick.

I'm still in 'collecting' mode at the moment (I've got stuff flying, driving, trucking from all over the joint at the moment), so a few more days ain't gunna hurt buddy.

Thanks for the help with this though brother.

The next issue I will have is that the postie will sneak in and place a 'you weren't home' card in the mail box and I'll have to go to the local GPO to pick up my stuff (even though we have not left the house and been home for the LAST TWO BLARDY YEARS ..... LOL)

Shockworks are good, I don't know anyone that I've talked to who has them who has complained!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FrangaFry

The next issue I will have is that the postie will sneak in and place a 'you weren't home' card in the mail box and I'll have to go to the local GPO to pick up my stuff (even though we have not left the house and been home for the LAST TWO BLARDY YEARS ..... LOL)

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Get a post office box & they email you when anything is there to collect. (I get emails on phone)

It is more secure & you have your mail earlier in the morning than with home delivery.

It's great in many other ways including when you go away.

So, spoke with Chris @ Shockworks and I'm up for it ........... VY Ute/Wagon is still in final 'fine tuning' stage, so need to wait a month or two for stock, but god damn it, I'm gunna get me some of these (and being like 5 minutes up the road and a local product is SUCH a bonus......... have not found a single bad word about the product or the lads at Shockworks either .......... and god damn I have looked recently LOL). Warranty is good, price is VERY competitive compared to other premium brands and the fact that they can be rebuilt for a very reasonable price per corner (plus they will do the install and setup for a realistic costs) seals it for me.

So, I'm on the short list as as soon as they have stock, I'm booked in for a pre suspension check to determine what other bits and bobs I'll need first so that everything can be pre ordered and installed at the same time the coilovers go in. I've also decided I am gunna SuperPro the sh1t out of the underneath of my wagon (as much as is suggested/recommended by Chris anyway).

Parts collection is slow at the moment (door/window seals/trim is coming along slowly - damn why is 'anything' to do with the RHR door so hard to get for a VY wagon............), but I have the drive shaft couplings, tail shaft center bearing, 2 new door door strikes (thanks again Nick) with 2 more stuck in the Aussie post black hole 'somewhere'; But, I am struggling with the CV's/Drive shaft .... so I need a little nudge ...

It seems like a real struggle to get new 'reputable' drive shafts (good lord there are some horror reviews out there and most are for the majority of the main aftermarket players such as GSP, Machter, Cozza etc).... so not filled with a heap of faith unless you go GForce and I am not sure I am ready to throw 2k at the axles ...........

What I do have though is a set of OEM's on my wagon and another set of OEM's I got from the wreckers ............... so I am thinking of getting the spare set checked and rebuilt to OEM spec. Thoughts?

Have called around a bit and there are a few mobs around town that will do a full inspection and rebuild for about $100 - to $130 per side.

What are folks thoughts on a rebuild and do you know of anyone that is 'reputable' that does a good job.

As always,

Thanks to the usual helpful crowd and anyone else who wants to chip in their 2 cents worth.

Cheers,

Franga

Nice work getting those door strikers, like rocking horse poo. If you can believe this, my perfect strikers were actually swapped out when my car was at a shop! I couldn't prove anything, so had to let it go and just never go back there. Been keeping an eye out for two ever since but keep missing the new ones.

Bugger man ......... I'd be just a little bit upset about that. Try and contact this mob, they had a few but would only let me have 2 of them (not sure if they still have the others.. but they cancelled the other 2 I had on order and refunded me ........ luckily motomk came to the rescue for me)

https://www.ebay.com.au/usr/willsautoparts

Just on the strikes can the existing screws be re used or do I need to source some new screws as well?

Cheers,

Franga

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FrangaFry

Just on the strikes can the existing screws be re used or do I need to source some new screws as well?

Cheers,

Franga

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I have used the original screws on mine without any problems. :cheers:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FrangaFry

Bugger man ......... I'd be just a little bit upset about that. Try and contact this mob, they had a few but would only let me have 2 of them (not sure if they still have the others.. but they cancelled the other 2 I had on order and refunded me ........ luckily motomk came to the rescue for me)

https://www.ebay.com.au/usr/willsautoparts

Just on the strikes can the existing screws be re used or do I need to source some new screws as well?

Cheers,

Franga

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Yes, I was not pleased but I had some real issues with stuff happening to my car for a while. This was not even close to the worst that happened to my poor car. Oh well, what can you do. Not much in a legal sense, let me tell you!

Thanks for the tip, I will look into it :)

Howdy folks, got me a question on cats.

It's been about 6 years since I replace my cats with MagnaFlow 200 cell jobbies. Was just about to pull the trigger on some Ballistics 100's (metal core) but the installer I was chatting to has offered me some Red Back 100 cell jobbies (Metal core) - $350 per side installed.

Anyone with any experience of these? Exhaust joint I am talking to swears by them.

Thoughts?

Thanks as always

Red Back is a decent Australian brand for exhausts but I have never tried their cats, I would give them a go.

May I ask why you are changing them? I have had a set of American Racing cats on mine for about 13 years & they are still fine.

I have also had Magnaflows on my V8 Ford for about 7 years still fine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whitels1ss

Red Back is a decent Australian brand for exhausts but I have never tried their cats, I would give them a go.

May I ask why you are changing them? I have had a set of American Racing cats on mine for about 13 years & they are still fine.

I have also had Magnaflows on my V8 Ford for about 7 years still fine.

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Thanks for the reply Whitels1ss. Just checked my records, the Magnaflows were installed waaaaay back in 2013 (Oh my lord that was a long time ago... where has THAT gone). I have noticed a few issues that have mad me wonder recently .......... getting a lot of 'fume' smells, rattles underneath, the engine feels a little clogged low down; When I start the car first time she fires right up first crank, but after a while driving, if I stop and re start the engine, she takes quite a few cranks to fire up again. Fuel economy also seems way down as well. Given 9 years of daily use and all these little symptoms, I can't help but think they are causing some restriction?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FrangaFry

Thanks for the reply Whitels1ss. Just checked my records, the Magnaflows were installed waaaaay back in 2013 (Oh my lord that was a long time ago... where has THAT gone). I have noticed a few issues that have mad me wonder recently .......... getting a lot of 'fume' smells, rattles underneath, the engine feels a little clogged low down; When I start the car first time she fires right up first crank, but after a while driving, if I stop and re start the engine, she takes quite a few cranks to fire up again. Fuel economy also seems way down as well. Given 9 years of daily use and all these little symptoms, I can't help but think they are causing some restriction?

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How old are you O2 Sensors?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BLACK 346

How old are you O2 Sensors?

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Good point!

Are any error codes coming up with a scan? :cheers:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whitels1ss

Good point!

Are any error codes coming up with a scan? :cheers:

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Hmmmm, O2 sensors were replaced when I installed the scan gauges @ Chev's waaaaay back in 2012 I think. I had a tune and some work done @ APS in 2020 but since then not had a scan tool run over the old girl (not even sure it would have been checked then either though).

Worth doing at the same time you think? Or are we thinking cats could be fine and just O2 sensors replaced. Either way both cats and sensor have done some miles and time ............. so should I just bite the bullet. The entire idea at the moment, is to give the old girl a bit of TLC to try to get me through the next 10 years.

I have a decent budget (around 8k'ish) to address some minor cosmetic stuff, the door/window seals, the coil overs and some re bushing and possibly drive shafts to bring her back into line and make me smile again (not that she's in a bad way, just want to give some back for all the service she has given).

270k on the clock (70 since motor rebuild and maybe 50 since tranny rebuild) but everything else was pretty much done around the 100k mark and 10+ years ago.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FrangaFry

Hmmmm, O2 sensors were replaced when I installed the scan gauges @ Chev's waaaaay back in 2012 I think. I had a tune and some work done @ APS in 2020 but since then not had a scan tool run over the old girl (not even sure it would have been checked then either though).

Worth doing at the same time you think? Or are we thinking cats could be fine and just O2 sensors replaced. Either way both cats and sensor have done some miles and time ............. so should I just bite the bullet. The entire idea at the moment, is to give the old girl a bit of TLC to try to get me through the next 10 years.

I have a decent budget (around 8k'ish) to address some minor cosmetic stuff, the door/window seals, the coil overs and some re bushing and possibly drive shafts to bring her back into line and make me smile again (not that she's in a bad way, just want to give some back for all the service she has given).

270k on the clock (70 since motor rebuild and maybe 50 since tranny rebuild) but everything else was pretty much done around the 100k mark and 10+ years ago.

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Very simple and cheap to just thrown some new O2 at it and see what happens mate ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BLACK 346

Very simple and cheap to just thrown some new O2 at it and see what happens mate ;)

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Sigh ..... Yeah..... I was overthinking that huh ......... that's some sage advice right there Black!

Ok, next nuffy question, given I have Aeroforce Guages installed do I need any special Wide band O2 sensor kit/harness/adaptor thingy or just the bog standard GM 4 wire 02 sensors? :confused:

Thanks as always,