Will be following this one closely
Thanks to the great Aussie Dollar I'm about to start the process of building a new motor for my ute, as i want to use the car for track work the plan is to make the motor ultra reliable. Though given the amount of abuse factory motors take this one should last a while.
Parts list so far:
Block: Factory Alloy 6lt block resleeved with Darton Dry sleeves along with all the general bullshit that goes along with the machine work etc.
ARP Main & Head stud kit
Pistons: Carillo 4.130 x 1.2" CH - 15cc Dish
Crank: Callies Dragonslayer 3.8" - 24x
Rods: Callies Compstar
Clevite Rod & Main Bearings
Lifters: Morel PBM
Camshaft: Comp Cams 247/251@.050" .624/624 Lift. 114 LSA + 2
Comp Camshaft retaining plate kit
Rollmaster Double Row timing chain set
Ported Factory oil pump
LS9 Headgaskets
Mast LS3 4.125 big bore Cyclinder heads
Factory LS7 Rockers (thought about going aftermarket but the price is rediculous & or come in a 1.8 ratio which would require higher lift valve springs = more $$$)
.660" lift dual valvesprings
Improved Racing sump baffle & Mocal remote oil thermostat (for oil cooler)
Pushrods: Not ordered yet, not until engine is assembled and height is checked.
Powerbond 10% overdrive 8PK pulley
I think that is everything for the engine side.
The rest of the build consists of a Harrop HTV2300 with toothed rear belt system & 80lb injectors
The car allready had:
PWR Alloy Radiator - engine
PWR Alloy Radiator - Supercharger
15 Row Oil Cooler for Powersteering
25 row oil cooler for engine oil
NPC Twin plate Clutch
CC Pacemaker 1 7/8 - 3.5" headers
Twin 044, surgetank etc. I will eventually put in an additional 60+ litre tank for next years cannonball run. just to so save on fuel stops.
As im still waiting on a few parts to turn up, i have only taken a couple of pictures, along with pinching one out of njc's thread as his is a better quality pic and let's face it once you've seen 1 ARP box, headgaskets etc, you've seen them all.
Powerwise im hoping to make 400rwhp
It's happened before, It will all happen again.
Will be following this one closely
I was under the belief that the LS7 came with rockers in 1.8 ratio from the factory happy to be corrected but that is what I am led to believe.
Last edited by Tre-Cool; 13-05-2011 at 03:49 PM.
It's happened before, It will all happen again.
yeah, but i didnt say at which point of the rpm curve.
small tidbit on the camshaft:
Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller 247 / 251 .624/.624 114 LSA, Designed for race applications with a Roots blower. Very strong high rpm power. RPM range from 2700 to 7200. Actual lift wil be closer to 660 though from the 1.8 rockers.
It's happened before, It will all happen again.
Subscribed
That is ALOT of lift with boost aswell, what springs are you running?
Well then that being the case if the cam isn't ground already drop your lobe lift to 0.35 and with 1.8 rockers will still equal 0.624 valve lift.
I have heard of someone that they machined the heads so that the pedastel (which on an LS7 is part of the head) is flat and then you can use either the LS1 or L98 rockers can't remember which one.
With 1.8 rockers that gives you 0.670 lift
that's actually a good bloody idea. the cam hasnt been purchased yet, just what i had in mind. i will pass on to the supplier.
The mast heads flow a shitload of air the more lift you give them, but i did want to keep the overall lift under 650 due the cost of upgrading to .700 lift duals.
It's happened before, It will all happen again.
Any reason you didn't go with a Melling or otherwise oil pump? They are not very expensive and my vague knowledge would tell me oil flow insurance is optimum.. Perhaps the stock ported pump flows more and out performs the aftermarket?
Tre Cool - noice set up
Should be another quick car for you
no particular reason. except the oil pump that's being used is from the original engine which had minimal usage. i have then gone and ported the in/exit side of the oil pump and shimmed the spring for increased pressure.
I know it sounds silly to say im doing it on a budget considering some of the parts used, but i didnt feel replacing the oil pump was neccesary. Considering the abuse the motor in my ve has put up with and that's a factory motor, I dont feel the need to replace it.
I took some pics of parts when i got home, because everyone loves pictures...
What a piston looks like after a snapped valve and is repeatably stabbed to death by the remaining valve stem.
but yeah, anyway on to bigger and better things as they say.
The reason for the sleeves...(note the 2 gouges)
Only cyclinder 1 was damaged all the others were fine. The fact that this happened did not make me very happy at all.
Onto the new parts:
Bearings & Timing set
Headgaskets
Assortment of Felpro gaskets. mainly front/rear timing covers seals etc.
Cleaned sump of all the extra bits left over from the piston and factory baffle removed in preperation for the aftermarket item.
7 spare factory pistons & rods. Free to a good/bad home.
Waterpump & blower boxed away for safe keeping.
Last edited by Tre-Cool; 13-05-2011 at 08:53 PM.
It's happened before, It will all happen again.
good use for the alanis morrisette cd
Those don't look like LS9 headgaskets to me!
Last edited by Tre-Cool; 13-05-2011 at 10:37 PM.
It's happened before, It will all happen again.
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