Thanks, know the VE's do it through the BCM.Think it's the BCM but I'd have to check to be sure Mick..
Great stuff, thanks very much for taking the time to reply!
The overrun clutch allows the alternator to keep turning after a high speed run on the engine.
You will notice that at a low speed idle that cars without the overrun clutch the belt tensioner is "twitchy"
Here is link to a picture of the Alternator (with overrun clutch) fitted to the Pontiacs. (Notice the longer snout on the drive shaft)
http://www.americanenginesco.com/pon...i-oe-a3tg1581/
Binnacle is now fitted - A little bit of work to fit to a VZ with Climate control but work the effort. Now getting a whole new appreciation of what is happening with the Oil Pressure (on an VZ 5.7l LS1 with 250,000km on the Clock).
I will create a separate post fro the the oil story. It will cover what can you do about "ticking lifters" (without necessarily replacing them - bugger of a job) - including Oil Viscosity (Relatively easy fix) - Oil Volume / Aeration etc - Oil Temperature (Slightly harder to fix) & Oil Pressure (Getting harder to fix) & when I get around to fitting it - Does an Oil Cooler make a difference (About middle of the road in difficulty - just a little expensive) - and would changing out the stock Oil pump for something like a Melling 10296 get us back to the near new oil pressure specs (Without having to completely rebuild the engine).
The last of the VZ's before they went to the 6.0l engine had the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) driving the Alternator output.
This is now the standard on all later models (like the VE).
What oil pressure are you getting on the Ls1, eg @ idle & full noise?
Situation now is Original LS1 - 250,000 miles on the clock "Original Oil Pump" - Running Nulon 15W 50 Full Syntheetic.
Been doing Oil Changes every 5,000km (New Oil + New Filter).
Using the Binnacle Gauge I get:
Cold Idle - 39psi (270kpa) / 4000rpm 42psi (~300kpa) - Cold idle is around 800rpm at startup then it drops to around 650rpm as the coolant temp rises and engine goes into 'closed loop' operation)
Hot Idle (in Neutral) - 29psi / 4000rpm 42psi (~300kpa) - The idle in Neutral is about 650-670rpm)
Hot idle (in Drive) - The oil pressure can avalanche away to 10-12psi (~100kpa) The idle in Drive may go as low at 510-540rpm.
In my case if the Oil pressure drops below 29psi (200kpa) for more than about 5 min I get a lifter that starts to "tick"
Using a 10W-40 like Castrol Magnatec the "tick" would come on in less than a minute during a Hot idle (particularly if idling in Drive).
On a few ocassions (usually Very Hot 40+ day - after long running then coming to a stop on an incline / some reverse parking on hills) the engine will pop a Check Engine Oil. It may last a second or two.
This means I am getting Oil Pressures below 5 psi on some conditions.
This has me thinking its now time to fit an Oil Cooler / Replace the Oil Pump.
I have a Setrab 625 Oil Cooler plus an Improved Racing 185F Thermostat (with all the kit to fit the pipework) and I have also purchased a Melling 10296 Oil Pump.
Plan is to fit them (I will be fitting the Melling Oil Pump with the standard pressure 'blue' spring).
I have an Oil Temp & Oil Pressure gauge that will give me a better guide on what conditions produce what outcomes.
Want to get that work done ASAP and see what happens to the Oil Pressure.
Yes your hot pressures are on the lower side. My Brothers VY2 is suffering the same thing. I recently purchased a new Melling pump, chain kit, valve springs in preparation for the fix.
Which Melling Pump are you going to use? M295 / 10295 / 10296?
Have you decided which spring setup you are going to use (Standard Pressure / High Pressure)?
If you are putting in a double row timing chain the Oil Pump clearances can be a problem and a Melling pump may not be the right choice.
Standard single Row Chain should be easy fit - there are some great guides on fitting the pumps on youtube.
Would be very interested to see what Oil Pressures you get after the pump is changed out.
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