best spark plugs and leads

[brawlr]

bump. anyone got a part number for the vy s2 leads(red ones)? also what price am i looking at for a set?

[vyls1wa]

Was reading this thread a little earlier, and upon some searching i found some sites that people may find of interest.

Plus Colour Chart:
http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingg...colorchart.htm


Another colour Chart:
http://www.theultralightplace.com/sparkplugs.htm

and a part number guide taken from: but i C/P it below
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=431689

LS1 Stock and AFR
Thread – 14mm
Reach - .708”
Socket – 5/8 hex
Seat - Taper
Stock Heat Range: 5
Gap: .060
Plug: NGK TR55 (stock number 3951); NGK TR55IX (stock number 7164); Autolite 764; Denso IT-16 (stock number 5325)

Nitrous (one step colder)
Heat Range: 6
Gap: .035 - .038
Plug: NGK TR6 (stock number 4177); NGK TR6IX (stock number 3689); Autolite 103; Denso IT-20 (stock number 5326)

Nitrous (two steps colder)
Heat Range: 7
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK BR7EF (stock number 3346); NGK TR7IX (stock number 3690); Autolite AR94; Denso IT22 (stock number 5327)

Nitrous (two and a half steps colder)
Heat Range: 8
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK R5724-8 (stock number 7317); NGK TR8IX (part number 3691); Denso IT-24 (stock number 5328)

Nitrous (three steps colder)
Heat Range: 9
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK R5724-9 (stock number 7891); Autolite AR93; Denso IT-27

Nitrous (four steps colder)
Heat Range: 10
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK R5724-10 (stock number 7993); Autolite AR92


LS1 w/ Edelbrock and Dart Heads
Thread – 14mm
Reach – 3/4”
Socket – 5/8 hex
Seat – Gasket

Stock – MFG Recommendations: approx under 9:1 compression
Heat Range: 4
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK FR4 (stock number 5155); NGK BKR5EIX (stock number 6341); Autolite 3926; Champion RC12YC (stock number 71); Denso IK16 (stock number 5303)

MFG Recommendations: approx 10.5:1 compression
Heat Range: 5
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK FR5 (stock number 7373); Autolite AR3924 (Racing Plug); Autolite 3924; Champion RC9YC (stock number 2075); Denso K20PR-U (stock number 3145); Denso IK20 (stock number 5304)

MFG Recommendations: approx 11:1 compression
Heat Range: 8
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK R5672A-8 (stock number 7173); Autolite AR3911; Champion C63YC (stock number 796); Denso IQ24 (stock number 5314)

MFG Recommendations: approx 12:1 compression
Heat Range: 9
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK R5672A-9 (stock number 7405); Autolite AR3910; Champion C61YC (stock number 785); Denso IQ27 (stock number 5315)

MFG Recommendations: approx 13:1 compression
Heat Range: 9 - 10
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK R5671A-9 (stock number 5238); Autolite AR3933; Champion C59CX (stock number 296); Denso IK27 (stock number 5312)

MFG Recommendations: approx 14:1 compression
Heat Range: 10
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK R5671A-10 (stock number 5820); Autolite AR3932; Champion C57CX (stock number 295); Denso IK-31 (stock number 5321)

**NOTE: Use chart for static compression and adjust heat range for nitrous use accordingly.

[WAY88T]

does anyone no the part number for msd leads for a vz ss 6ltr .. there is a set on ebay (well a few) and they say msd LS1 ignition leads ( they say they will suite 6ltr ) but i would just like to make sure they will ..

also there are a set of tr55ix spark plugs on there as well i was looking at getting .. as i have read before they try and sell them as tr55ix but are really not ?

any help would be great


cheers

[gavlotic]

Hi all,

Thought I'd contribute to an older thread about spark plugs and leads rather than start a new thread. I know some guys and included myself have had problems getting leads off in the past so I thought I'd add my 2 cents.

My ute is just under 100,000km and lately had been feeling a bit flat through the rev range with a few flat spots as well - didn't feel normal - so i figured I'd start with plugs and leads. I already had some oem plugs I got from a mate so went to Holden spare parts over the w/e and picked up a new set of the red ls1 leads just under $150. Asked about the ls2/ls3 leads and was quoted almost $300 so stuff that idea I stuck to the ls1 leads couldn't tell the difference anyway by eye though i think the ls2/ls3 are slightly thicker???

Anyway my mechanic recommended that I change leads while the car was warm the connectors expand and don't hold the plugs as tight apparently - I always wondered how mechanics got these off so fast - so I gave it a go. Admitedly I let the car sit for about an 1 1/2 hours or so before starting and even then they were still pretty warm. I used a flat head screw driver to help break the leads seal on the ignition coil so those came off pretty easy. Next I put on some gloves since I wasn't so sure how warm the headers were still and I didn't want to find out the hard way either - well with a slight rotate and wiggle I couldn't believe how easy they came off - I had them all off within a few minutes. Now I admit I tried doing this job while the car was cold one time and after half an hour I could not get the buggers off the plugs. A bit of background I used to own a VS that I serviced myself for bout 8 years before getting rid of it and I don't have weak arms either however I was scared to break the ls1 leads. Putting the leads on and changing the plugs were dead easy though having a uni joint for your ratchet/socket set is priceless here.

So in summary change leads while they're still warm and do the plugs while it's cold. Car's driving a lot smoother and more responsive after changing these. Hopefully this post helps someone else having trouble with leads.

Cheers,

Gav

[Huthy77]

Just to reliven an old thread...

The now recommened NGK plug for VY Gen III V8's is a IZTR5B11....

And you guessed it, that's a 1.1mm gap... Not sure why they would drop the gap from the recommened 1.5, but they are the experts!

Anybody used this part number for the iridiums?

[feistl]

Hey guys,

Just want it cleared up, are the NKG IRIDIUM TR5IX a good choice for a stroked LS1 N/A?

Been reading through, but wasnt 100% sure.

Cheers, Errol.

[PESSV]

Started another thread for plugs for the VE but it got closed down and I got pointed in this thread’s direction. There are people on here talking about the VE and would it be fair to say are using the same plugs and gap as the GENIII guys?

So I looked up a 6.0l VE on the NGK site it gives me an IZTR5B11 NGK’s coding tells me that the last number is the gap. So these are - Iridium, etc,etc,etc heat range 5 gap 1.1mm not 1.5mm. NGK also list the same plug (and gap) for a GENIII. The picture of the emission control info for the GENIII clearly states a 1.5mm gap but for a copper plug, not an Iridium plug. Can’t even find an emissions plate on the VE? Bosch sites don't even give you a VE plug but Bosch agrees with 1.5mm gap (copper) for a GENIII. Champion (US no Aussie site) forget it, they have gone to sh*t with spark plugs. AC Delco forget it. Denso do not list one for the VE but agrees with 1.5mm for a GENIII. A lot of US sites give a gap of 0.40” or 1.016 for the 6.0l L76. Brisk do list a plug for the 6.0l VE, a GOR17LGS or Premium which is not Iridium. Gap 1.1mm. They list the same plug for the GENIII but gap is 1.5mm. They also say 1.1mm gap for their Super (copper) and Silver in a VE.

So what is the gap for an L98 (VE)? Is it 1.1mm Iridium, Platinum or Copper? Can anyone point to where I can find the correct gap because I’ve looked and can’t find bugger all other than what’s on the NGK and Brisk sites.

[hyper24]

Same here, went to buy plugs for VE SS and they were about 20 each. Was going to cost 160 just for plugs because they are the special iridiums or whatever they are.

Does anyone know the standard copper ones that can replace these? Id rather change them every 60k, and pay $40 for plugs then pay $160 and change every 100,000ks

[Blown V2]

Research BRISK LGS if you want to try something different. GOR-15LGS

Hey mate how do you find the Brisks?

I've run them in a few cars, including some supercharged 6's that are known to break down spark and they run fantastic, even though they have a 3.0mm gap.

We also tried some Brisk GR17YPY in a VZ Senator and found 7.9kw.

Cheers,
Adam

[OPTIMUS]

just ordered some of the AC DELCO iridiums from states with other stuff for $70AU lets see how they go

[sikclubby]

make sure you use the factory insulator caps on any aftermarket leads if they fit. I had a set of Msd leads, absoulte crap. Learning the hard way i never reused the factory insulaters, eventually the heat from the extractors made the plastic go brittle on one of the leads and it starting shorting out to headers therefore losing one cylinder. Had me puzzled for a while until i popped the bonnet one night and seen the bright blue spark arking across. anyway got recommnded to use thunder volt leads. suppose to be the ducks nuts and havent had any problems since. made from very high heat resistant

[LS1TOY]

were the leads touchin the headers? the shouldnt! runnin msd leads for 2.5 years about 50,000 kays not a problem in the world. checked resistance the other day, same as when i bought them, still in top nick. can be had for about 160-170 bucks. also very well made and alot easier to remove than factory leads
Jake,

[LS1FRK]

Hi all,

Thought I'd contribute to an older thread about spark plugs and leads rather than start a new thread. I know some guys and included myself have had problems getting leads off in the past so I thought I'd add my 2 cents.

My ute is just under 100,000km and lately had been feeling a bit flat through the rev range with a few flat spots as well - didn't feel normal - so i figured I'd start with plugs and leads. I already had some oem plugs I got from a mate so went to Holden spare parts over the w/e and picked up a new set of the red ls1 leads just under $150. Asked about the ls2/ls3 leads and was quoted almost $300 so stuff that idea I stuck to the ls1 leads couldn't tell the difference anyway by eye though i think the ls2/ls3 are slightly thicker???

Anyway my mechanic recommended that I change leads while the car was warm the connectors expand and don't hold the plugs as tight apparently - I always wondered how mechanics got these off so fast - so I gave it a go. Admitedly I let the car sit for about an 1 1/2 hours or so before starting and even then they were still pretty warm. I used a flat head screw driver to help break the leads seal on the ignition coil so those came off pretty easy. Next I put on some gloves since I wasn't so sure how warm the headers were still and I didn't want to find out the hard way either - well with a slight rotate and wiggle I couldn't believe how easy they came off - I had them all off within a few minutes. Now I admit I tried doing this job while the car was cold one time and after half an hour I could not get the buggers off the plugs. A bit of background I used to own a VS that I serviced myself for bout 8 years before getting rid of it and I don't have weak arms either however I was scared to break the ls1 leads. Putting the leads on and changing the plugs were dead easy though having a uni joint for your ratchet/socket set is priceless here.

So in summary change leads while they're still warm and do the plugs while it's cold. Car's driving a lot smoother and more responsive after changing these. Hopefully this post helps someone else having trouble with leads.

Cheers,

Gav

I used to have a VS also, and have the skinned knuckles to prove I've changed the plugs and leads before. I'll definitely try removing the leads whilst warm next time!

[gavlotic]

I used to have a VS also, and have the skinned knuckles to prove I've changed the plugs and leads before. I'll definitely try removing the leads whilst warm next time!

good stuff mate. They come off quick w/o fail this way. No bruised/skinned knuckles either - real easy.

cheers,

Gav

[wally01]

Same here, went to buy plugs for VE SS and they were about 20 each. Was going to cost 160 just for plugs because they are the special iridiums or whatever they are.

Does anyone know the standard copper ones that can replace these? Id rather change them every 60k, and pay $40 for plugs then pay $160 and change every 100,000ks

Holden just quoted me $32.00 each for plugs ,don't want to sound like a scrooge but i aint paying $256.00 for plugs ...