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Thread: VE SS-V GEN4 Engine OIL- Which is best?!

  1. #76
    boyley's Avatar
    boyley is offline Considerable Contributor to the Forum Last Online: 20-07-2017 @ 01:33 PM
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    Re: VE SS-V GEN4 Engine OIL- Which is best?!

    Quote Originally Posted by Wonky View Post
    Where from? I'm sure the last lot I got was around $70! Big difference when you need two!
    Youre right Wonks (again) lol I paid $69.95 for 5 litres it was the nulon I used to pay $40 for.

  2. #77
    vecommo is offline Forum Contributor Last Online: 01-05-2011 @ 10:20 PM
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    Re: VE SS-V GEN4 Engine OIL- Which is best?!

    When I bought my WK it ran as quiet as a mouse. The previous owner always had it dealership serviced so it was filled with whatever oil they use.
    When it came time to change the oil I used Mobil 1 5w50 (as they didn't have any 10w30 left) and all of a sudden, to my disgust, it started to sound like a diesel, so much so that I was stressing that I may have bought a dud.
    I changed the oil just last week after 5000km but this time I used Castrol Edge 5w30, and suprise suprise, it's back to normal, quiet as a mouse and running like a swiss watch.
    From what I understand a thicker oil is supposed to make your engine quieter, not noisier.... so I'm assuming it's a Mobil 1 thing?
    This has kind of turned me off using Mobil 1 again. I'll see how I go with the Castrol... I was going to use Penrite but found that they didn't have much of a synthetic range and they had all sorts of various viscosities except the one specified for an Ls1 (I prefer to go by the book).

  3. #78
    Wonky's Avatar
    Wonky is offline One of the Top Contributors to the Forum Last Online: 18-01-2024 @ 01:35 PM
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    Re: VE SS-V GEN4 Engine OIL- Which is best?!

    Did it mainly sound noisy when cold? The 5w50 is thinner when cold than 10w30.

  4. #79
    vecommo is offline Forum Contributor Last Online: 01-05-2011 @ 10:20 PM
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    Re: VE SS-V GEN4 Engine OIL- Which is best?!

    Quote Originally Posted by Wonky View Post
    Did it mainly sound noisy when cold? The 5w50 is thinner when cold than 10w30.
    It was significantly noisier with the Mobil 1 even when hot after a long trip, thats what had me really worried that my engine was a dud.
    With the Castrol I'm using now I still get some noise on startup but once it reaches operating temp it virtually disappears.

  5. #80
    Wonky's Avatar
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    Re: VE SS-V GEN4 Engine OIL- Which is best?!

    At least the engine is OK after all.

  6. #81
    saaz is offline Occasional Contributor to the Forums Last Online: 05-07-2015 @ 06:21 PM
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    Re: VE SS-V GEN4 Engine OIL- Which is best?!

    I have been using the Mobil 1 5W-50 in a stock WL 5.7 with no issues at all. Early on from 13K to 40K or so the Mobil 1 10W-30 was used, but since then only the 5W-50 (before then it was a Holden car that went between a few dealers, so who knows what went in it). At near 100k runs better than ever, in fact oil usage by the drop on the dipstick in 10K oil change intervals is now less than ever. Maybe it is just run in?

  7. #82
    spinr33 is offline Occasional Contributor to the Forums Last Online: 30-01-2012 @ 08:32 PM
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    Re: VE SS-V GEN4 Engine OIL- Which is best?!

    I see all u guys are recommending 10w/60, coming from a small engine background for over 7 years and now at autobarn having various cars etc their really isnt any substiutute for a full synthetic oil, however as the other guy said it may be a better idea to run a 10w/60 etc better film strength etc but in real world terms how many more real world km's are u going to get out of the engine?? another what 50 000kms??
    Ive had alot of different tests and going from a 15w/40 to a 0w30 gained literally a 10hp gain on the dyno not actually noticeable but their all the same.
    I just wonder if maybe u guys are thinking that using thin oil is actual going to make the engine fail prematurely which i dont think is the case at all, ive used most of the what u call premium engine oils redline,penrite full syn,motul,lucas full syn. Having seen alot of motorbikes pulled apart u tend to recognise that its more the amount of oil changes rather then even the quality of oil used that determines failures of components.
    This is just what ive found in real world conditions so in contrast to that any high quality full synthetic oil changed reguarly wont have an impact on the life of any performance engine this is more visible in high reving high wear things like motorbikes which literally wear out year to year so u can see the effects and carnt really argue with the facts u see.
    Neways in wraping up i give motul 5w/40 the thumbs up or if u want to save abit lucas 5w/40 full synthetic is good and reasonably priced my 2 cents thanks rory.

  8. #83
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    Re: VE SS-V GEN4 Engine OIL- Which is best?!

    Quote Originally Posted by boyley View Post
    around $40



    Interesting can you advise which brand please TC
    It's from Fuch's (spelling?) they use it for the CAT dozers etc at the local landfill and i only change oil/filter every 10K km's and the car sees plenty of 7000+ rpm loving. Probably drop it down a bit once the blower is on though.

    In my ute i have ran magnatec to penrite sin 5/60 etc and found no difference in performance or general engine maintenance.
    Last edited by Tre-Cool; 15-05-2009 at 11:50 PM.
    It's happened before, It will all happen again.

  9. #84
    Blown 454 AWD's Avatar
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    Re: VE SS-V GEN4 Engine OIL- Which is best?!

    This an't rocket science guys, it's nuts and bolts shit!

    If you modify your power, you must modify your protection, end of conversation !!!

    We modify the engine, it goes faster.

    Next we root the tranny, so we get a built Tranny, or in my case after rooting 1 standard Tranny, 3 built Trannys in the first 10,000 klms, enter 4L80e, game over.

    We snap axles, so we put big fat fukers in, fixes it.

    Back to the motor, the piston, crank etc is built to take a certain loading per squire inch and the oils film strength is designed should cope with that. (with very normal driving)

    Whoops, we just doubled the power, now those components weren't designed for that, so we build a race motor (if we're good), the only thing you haven't changed is the film strength of the oil. (even worse if you don't build a race motor)

    You just have to see a Filtergram of a 1000 hp engine, even my 10w60 can't stop all the metal from being made, drop it back to a 20w50 (same race oil just lighter viscosity) and 1000 hp immeadiatley doubles the metal being made.

    10w60 is only 22 - 25 cSt @100C (around SAE 6) your 10w40 is 14 cSt @ 100C (about SAE 4) so our 10w60 is not much thicker at running temps however, make all the difference to the wear (with any modification)

    Over the years so many say, "I ran XXXX and had a great run" which I don't doubt (don't know what you thought you should see without testing) , but this is fine in a normal situation, but if you modify or give her constant stick, the better viscosity will make it last longer.

    On the Mainlube web site in the Performance area there are 2 Filtergrams from a Cross8 then ran 2 different manufactures oils of the same viscosity in the same job back to back and there was a difference.

    I must put some more up I have Filtergrams from Peter Brock's 05 427 (from the actual 24 hr race) running light viscosities, they are serious shit, also Tuna's R8 TT on my 10w60 so more to come there.

    Film strength reduces wear, if you modify your power, you must modify the protection.


    ----------------------------------------


    Now to take the Fluid Friction thing (I posted back in this thread) to the next stage.

    I have seen inside engines that have run extreme quality big viscosity oils for 30 to 50,000 klm, the wear faces instead of being a smooth satin finish (like normal) they have an extremely smooth chrome like finish. This is the "water over the stones in the creek" princable (they get bloody slippery don't they).

    If you can stop most of the "touch" in a machine by using these greater protection products, the machine just seems to run smoother and more lively. As we smooth out the metal surfaces (with fluid) it lessens the fluid friction which only happens because of drag of the fluid across the metal surface.

    So over the past 30 years I've had many people say to me, "it just keeps going better and better" and this happens by smoothing out the inside of the drive faces which can be seen when the machine is apart. (which is another nuts and bolts thing) the smoother it is the less friction there is.

    We've been doing this to our inlet and exhaust ports to get the air slide in and out faster for years.

    This just take quite a while to happen (it won't happen over night, but it will happen)

    We have found that in the long run, the fluid friction disappears and you get the best of both worlds.

    And if a heavier viscosity makes your engine nosier, then your motors dirty and possibly restricting flow when cold, I've never seen a 10w60 make a newish motor under 20,000 klms noisy.

    Cheers

    Steve





    A manufactures job is to supply you with a component and guide you how to
    service it so lasts long enough for you to be happy with the money you spent.

    Mainlube's job is to try and make that component last twice as long or in most cases, longer.


    Mainlube Superior Maintenance Lubricants Pty Ltd
    Mainlube 175 Synthetic Race Oil SAE 10w60 (engine)
    Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w90 (gearbox)
    Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w140 (diff)

    www.Mainlube.com.au
    Last edited by Blown 454 AWD; 16-05-2009 at 08:59 AM.

  10. #85
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    Re: VE SS-V GEN4 Engine OIL- Which is best?!

    I've run magnatec in all my past ls1's and now in both L98's, change oil and filter every 5000km's.

    My VY clubsport from a few years ago had Mobil 1(like baby oil to me to thin) and piston slap noise was horrible when cold, heaps better on magnatec.

    My VE SS ute just had a cam installled at 3800km's and first thing i really noticed was valve train noise(apart from extra power), as wonky posted earlyier later VE's have 5w 30w on oil cap, after a oil and filter change to magnatec 10w 40 (piece of mind after cam install) valve train noise a lot better same as my sedan. Normally get this for around $30 for 5L(last batch was $28 so bought 4)

    How long are people running there castrol edge 10w 60 for 5000/10000km's?????? I noticed that my ute factory oil was very black for only 3800km's

    Cheers Paul

  11. #86
    Alex(AUS)'s Avatar
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    Re: VE SS-V GEN4 Engine OIL- Which is best?!

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEVE View Post
    I've run magnatec in all my past ls1's and now in both L98's, change oil and filter every 5000km's.

    My VY clubsport from a few years ago had Mobil 1(like baby oil to me to thin) and piston slap noise was horrible when cold, heaps better on magnatec.

    My VE SS ute just had a cam installled at 3800km's and first thing i really noticed was valve train noise(apart from extra power), as wonky posted earlyier later VE's have 5w 30w on oil cap, after a oil and filter change to magnatec 10w 40 (piece of mind after cam install) valve train noise a lot better same as my sedan. Normally get this for around $30 for 5L(last batch was $28 so bought 4)

    How long are people running there castrol edge 10w 60 for 5000/10000km's?????? I noticed that my ute factory oil was very black for only 3800km's

    Cheers Paul
    Many people report that Magnatec is good ... so I am sure it is. I have used it myself (in my wife's car) and it seems to be ok. Though, I would assume that Castrol put everything in magnatec and more in the Edge ...

    Alex

  12. #87
    SirNemesis's Avatar
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    Re: VE SS-V GEN4 Engine OIL- Which is best?!

    So is Edge 10w60 still the choice for a brand new engine, or should a mineral oil be used to aid break-in? I've been using 10w60 on my LS1 without dramas, but now that I have a brand new L76 I would like to know whats best to break it in with.

  13. #88
    Blown 454 AWD's Avatar
    Blown 454 AWD is offline Fair Contributor to the Forums Last Online: 18-01-2019 @ 01:40 PM
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    Re: VE SS-V GEN4 Engine OIL- Which is best?!

    Quote Originally Posted by SirNemesis View Post
    So is Edge 10w60 still the choice for a brand new engine, or should a mineral oil be used to aid break-in? I've been using 10w60 on my LS1 without dramas, but now that I have a brand new L76 I would like to know whats best to break it in with.
    Mineral for the first 0 to 3000 klm, first change at 1000 klms.

    You could change to synthetic 10w60 at 1000 klms (I would) if the oil level hasn't budged on the dipstick indicating bedding in has happened, the rest is just loosening up which can take up to 10,000 klms.

    I note Edge 10w60 says on their spec sheet they don't advise Synthetic 10w60 before 3000 klms and mineral should be used before this so they are playing it safe.

    If you use your head and use above as a guide I can't see you having any worries.

    Cheers

    Steve





    If you modify your power, you should modify your protection and run a 10w60.


    A manufactures job is to supply you with a component and guide you how to
    service it so lasts long enough for you to be happy with the money you spent.

    Mainlube's job is to try and make that component last twice as long or in most cases, longer.


    Mainlube Superior Maintenance Lubricants Pty Ltd
    Mainlube 175 Synthetic Race Oil SAE 10w60 (engine)
    Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w90 (gearbox)
    Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w140 (diff)

    www.Mainlube.com.au

  14. #89
    fastestls7's Avatar
    fastestls7 is offline Forum Contributor Last Online: 07-12-2014 @ 11:22 AM
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    Re: VE SS-V GEN4 Engine OIL- Which is best?!

    what your thoughts on vavoline 25w 60

  15. #90
    popeye3dr is offline Occasional Contributor to the Forums Last Online: 27-06-2014 @ 07:10 AM
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    Re: VE SS-V GEN4 Engine OIL- Which is best?!

    Quote Originally Posted by fastestls2 View Post
    what your thoughts on vavoline 25w 60
    25w60 is to think, but the valoline 10w50 was my next choice
    Well i had my service done on the ute yesterday and got them to put the castrol 10w60 in, and i agree it defo make the engine less noisy and mine wasn't even noisy to being with being a late 05 VZ.
    On a side note, i usually take my car to Sam's for it service and what not's, but there's a local garage to me that i take the magna to for any work that needs doing and have been very happy with the work they do and price they charge, so if any guys on the northern beaches are just looking for a simple service on there car i recommend Goodspanner in Brookvale on the northern beaches

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