Just curious,
Who out there is using the Mobil1 5w50 in there L98 SS or LS2/3 HSV?
I know a couple of people using it. Like to get some feedback if I could.. Some of the other threads only talk about it in a GEN3 engine.
Cheers People,,,..
I found Penrite HPR5 to give better high temp pressure.
Just curious,
Who out there is using the Mobil1 5w50 in there L98 SS or LS2/3 HSV?
I know a couple of people using it. Like to get some feedback if I could.. Some of the other threads only talk about it in a GEN3 engine.
Cheers People,,,..
I noticed nobody posted this up yet
Engine Oil Tests * - Motorswaps
a very good comparo of oils and quite supprizing,
Regards
Trev
Can't believe people are still linking that article...
Look here, the editor got shut down on their testing machine and methods.
http://forums.noria.com/eve/forums/a...5/m/8381065241
The machine used for the test is meant to test grease, not oil.
Why dont ppl go here then to ask about oils hehe,
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
I dont believe there is a better forum in which to discuss oils
Trev
P.s the reply in which u linked to was answered by a redline rep , read into that what you will
SC did admit in a later issue they testing method was critically flawed so I wouldn't be too concerned with the results. Interesting testing method though.
Just thought you might be interested to know. I once spoke with an engine builder at one of the Holden V8 supercar teams. They use this oil and their cams come out with less ware then the team using mobil 1.
Does anyone have any things to say about:
Caltex Havoline oil
Valvoline Syn oil
BIT OFF TOPIC... GOING TO DO AN OIL change in the SSV, saw the bash plate, scared off, how hard is it?
easy step guide anyone?
Hey i just bought some valvoline 5w40 from supercheap 20 bucks cheaper than normal seemed like a good deal. Any of you guys use it? any associated problems with it? Thanks guys.
When running a 20w50 in a race engines in race conditions (1000 hp Lambo's) our own R & D in house testing Filtergram has shown a 10w60 has a dramatic reduction in metal production. (less touch)
This means less metal circulating with the oil flow, hence less damage to the engine via erosion.
Cheers
Steve
So go get a refund on the syn power and get 10w60 edge, i've just been using 10w40 magnatec every 7,500 but think its time to use full synthetic.
Hi guys,
I have a VE SS '06, and have owned it since new. One year ago I decided to use Mobile 1. I have always used the oil the dealership use (???? - some form of castrol). After using the Mobil I didn't know what all the fuss was about. So, next oil change I was recommended to use a semi-synthetic or go full synthetic but a slightly cheaper version. I had Castrol Edge Sport 5w 30 go in. Let me tell you guys..... DON'T USE IT !!!
My car sounded like someone had dropped a bag of marbles in engine upon cold start-up.
I initially thought that a pulley bearing had collapsed but it was too coincidental to happen when it did. Cold morning starts sounded like a diesel engine. So I decided to search the net for a solution. Thanks to this forum and based on 'Steve's' advice, my car went in for an oil change - Castrol Edge Sport 10w 60.
Guess what....... yep, NO MORE CLUNKING NOISE ON COLD STARTS.
Thanks to all, especially Steve. Next oil change might well be Mainlube.
Now for a question....
Should I also use an addative like Nulon as a security measure incase damage has been done???
The car goes great to be honest with no faults whatsoever since new......."touch wood".
Cheers boys
Tony
Tony
Good to see you're using the correct protection for a big engine.
If you'd damaged you engine significantly enough to worry I believe you would see symptoms so all is good.
One should be cautious when adding extra additives to a 10w60, if the additive is worth having it should have a bucket of V.I. in it.
An additive with high V.I., when added to a 10w60 would usually end up as a 20w70, not something I would run unless I was racing a big purpose built engine with huge race clearances.
So you're doing fine now.
Cheers
Steve
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