HZ L98 coversion

[Micks]

Besides a visual but you general need to remove & dismantle, they can leak from the booster end & plunger/piston can score or rust in the bore.

[D_BLOCK]

Ive given it s good going over and cant see any source of leak or air contamination thats why im stumped

[D_BLOCK]

Ok getting the bits and pieces together for the Th400 trans . Am I right in thinking that I can just go with the ATP flex plate and wont need to go a spacer ?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atp-z270

[Micks]

Ive given it s good going over and cant see any source of leak or air contamination thats why im stumped

Jason you can get em reco, but probably cheap as for a newy these days.

[D_BLOCK]

Jason you can get em reco, but probably cheap as for a newy these days.

Yeah ive just priced up both and there isnt alot in it really . May as well go new and she will last another 40 years .

[D_BLOCK]

A few things accomplished trying to juggle a business and a hobby . New brake booster installed, new oil pressure sensor as the old one was pissing out , new temp sensor , got a road worthy , TH400 box with 3500 stall ordered , flex plate for conversion ordered , will have wiring harness out tomorrow and can send it off to justin to mod . And , with any luck the engine , box , diff and brakes will be off the ute by the end of the weekend .

[D_BLOCK]

Ok , so the engine and box is out . Wiring harness is all cleaned up ready to post off to justin to mod . The engine has had several coats of degreaser to make her nice and peerty and I pulled the sump to check for any fillings or bent rods....all is in excellent condition . tomorrow the diff and brakes come out.

[D_BLOCK]

Very slow progress today .
Removed the wiring harness through out the ute , let me just say its a complete pr1ck when the body is damaged and all folded over and you have to cut , drill , and prize panels apart to get to the trapped loom and connectors .
Full credit today goes to AEG recipro saw and another mate of mine , the 125mm grinder

[feistl]

Hey mate,

Can i make a recommendation?

With the engine out, id do a bit of preventative maintenance. Eg, change the oil pickup o ring, the sump gasket, rear main seal. Not sure how many kms the engine has done, but depending on budget and skillset its almost worth pulling the motor down and putting a new set of bearings in and maybe a small cam. Much easier to do it with the engine out than down the track.

You'd be surprised how little it costs in parts to "rebuild" an engine and how relatively easy it is (if the engine is in reasonable condition).

Cheers,

[D_BLOCK]

Hey mate,

Can i make a recommendation?

With the engine out, id do a bit of preventative maintenance. Eg, change the oil pickup o ring, the sump gasket, rear main seal. Not sure how many kms the engine has done, but depending on budget and skillset its almost worth pulling the motor down and putting a new set of bearings in and maybe a small cam. Much easier to do it with the engine out than down the track.

You'd be surprised how little it costs in parts to "rebuild" an engine and how relatively easy it is (if the engine is in reasonable condition).

Cheers,

Thanks mate , all recommendations taken onboard. The engine has 170xxx km and while I did pull the sump and windage tray and had a look throughout , and it all looked good , I am tempted to throw a known cam into it (current cam unknown) . I'll try and find a "how too " in regards to bearings etc.. . If there is anything else to watch out for or to replace during the conversion im definitely all ears.

thanks guys

[feistl]

Well this is just my theory, id focus on all the things that require the engine to be removed from the car...

So piston rings, main and rod bearings, oil pickup o ring, sump gasket, rear main seal, camshaft.

Things like lifters, springs, etc can all be done with the engine in place at a later date if required.

For what its worth (not sure about LS1), but i recently had a couple of VT 5L (304) engines freshed up. Basically paid for the block to be power honed, crank was linished, new set of piston rings, bearings and all gaskets for about $600. Although the engines didn't specifically need it as the parts hadnt worn out, it was easy with the engine already out. Plus putting new head gaskets on means you can pull the heads down and clean the valves etc. Again depends how much you want to do yourself, but its all pretty easy once you get started.

Theory is now that work is done the engine should be good for another 100,000km+.

[whitels1ss]

Hey mate,

Can i make a recommendation?

With the engine out, id do a bit of preventative maintenance. Eg, change the oil pickup o ring, the sump gasket, rear main seal. Not sure how many kms the engine has done, but depending on budget and skillset its almost worth pulling the motor down and putting a new set of bearings in and maybe a small cam. Much easier to do it with the engine out than down the track.

You'd be surprised how little it costs in parts to "rebuild" an engine and how relatively easy it is (if the engine is in reasonable condition).

Cheers,

Great advice!

[Micks]

My experience with the latter LS1's bottom ends were generally bullet proof, things that generally need attention depending on it's life around 150K+ is springs, oil pumps & lifters & possibly rocker trunions as well.

[D_BLOCK]

Well this is just my theory, id focus on all the things that require the engine to be removed from the car...

So piston rings, main and rod bearings, oil pickup o ring, sump gasket, rear main seal, camshaft.

Things like lifters, springs, etc can all be done with the engine in place at a later date if required.

For what its worth (not sure about LS1), but i recently had a couple of VT 5L (304) engines freshed up. Basically paid for the block to be power honed, crank was linished, new set of piston rings, bearings and all gaskets for about $600. Although the engines didn't specifically need it as the parts hadnt worn out, it was easy with the engine already out. Plus putting new head gaskets on means you can pull the heads down and clean the valves etc. Again depends how much you want to do yourself, but its all pretty easy once you get started.

Theory is now that work is done the engine should be good for another 100,000km+.

If the price for the 5ltr is comparative to the LS stuff I would be mad not to swap out the internals by the sounds of it. I can see we are slowly creeping towards stroker territory here haha

[D_BLOCK]

Can I get some suggestions on fuel systems?

Im thinking that as soon as I lean on the current setup (if it will even work in its current config?) thats its going to run out of steam .
Being a visual kinda person any diagrams would be hugely appreciated.

cheers lads.