VY Automatic transmission

[Freshmint]

Hi!

Just wanting to know if using the gears in my auto 03 VY S continuously will do any harm?

Like, I've been told by a not so close source that swears if you use the gears manually too often it will stretch the bands or something and that an auto is designed to be used in exactly that - "D".

It's something I don't do too much anyway but sometimes I would like to keep it in 3rd when going at 80km/h so that the auto doesn't change up and down all the time. I also would like to use it around town where I wouldn't even need to use 3rd and rev it out more like a manual.

cheers.

[Danv8]

I've shifted manually a fair few times in my Calais and has shown no side effects by it.
Just look at the new cars with the manual-matic transmissions only real difference is that you tap it up or down a gear by the gearstick or steering wheel paddles.

Just don't downshift if the engine is revving a redline alert. :-)

[HSVREDSLED]

I think WOT kick downs from 4 to 1 are generally thought to be detrimental to your box. Lately I have beed cruising around in 3 which I find a lotmore responsive.

[Peter B - CV8]

Down shifting at high rpm is what kills the transmission.

[Tonner]

Just don't pull back too often to slow the car, there is not a whole lot of the engine brake clutches there to do that job..

[Freshmint]

^ Actually thats what annoys me about auto's is that fact alone and having to use the breaks more.

Are you talking more from a low gear? Is it better for the trans to use the engine to slow down in third insted of second so at least there is some breaking there?

[Tonner]

^ Actually thats what annoys me about auto's is that fact alone and having to use the breaks more.

Are you talking more from a low gear? Is it better for the trans to use the engine to slow down in third insted of second so at least there is some breaking there?

Oh it will handle normal backing off of the throttle, but try to slow by ripping back too far too often and you will wear it out just like you wear your brake pads , which are easier to replace than the auto clutches.

i.e dont expect to it to lift your engine rpm too often from say under 2000 rpm
to 5000 or more, no matter what gear you are shifting down to. (imo)

I wouldn't give it big raps locked in lower gears and then just back off too often either, although I have done this to check for squeal, to test that enough pressure is applied

There the two little harrys that do that job in the top rh of the pan,, they dont look as robust as a set of good brake pads even, must be made of good sh!t just the same.
http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/2/3807284558.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4716962)

[BLAQSSHEV]

My way of thinking it would be nah it shudnt hurt it to much if done in moderation.. I do it occasionally when at low revvs probably wudnt do it when giving it a bootfull or slowing down..

I spose the one good thing about auto is when slowing down not using compression to slow you down saving petrol money and engine wear. Becides had a manual for 10 years ..over it..Thats my 2c

[Ausmartin1]

If it's the 4L60-e, then manual shifting is not a good thing!
Noticed on mine it handles manual Down shifiting NOT WELL with much bump/hang than other units - Like manual 4-3 for example.

As mentioned by other posts that bands are used in this trans for forward gears and hence some side effects.

I actually prefer to preselect the maximum gear I need or accelerate up so it's in the gear I then manually shift it down to match. The trans seems to much prefer this.


For those who are bored:
The 4L60-e is actually a great trans for a V6. It's no tiptronic and not as slick as an Asin Warner unit, but if you look after it lasts a very long time.
Things to look out for are delayed forward full engagment, softer than usual 3-4 changes. You can have fitted Pinless double seal accumulator pistons from Sonnax which work a treat for 1-2 , 3-4 & Fwd/Reverse Acumulators & Reverse Boost valve at 80,000km. These mods reduce the pressure losses at these points when the trans has done bit of work with it's accumulators in city work @ 50,000km. Benefit is then that more pressure is available to where it's needed.

PS if you do the Pinless mod get a new valve body seperator plate / gasket set and plastic clip on filter blocks as the plate is soft SS material and when worn by the check balls they can get stuck.
Extremely important points for valve body are Bolt location and above all tightening sequence and torque - use a high quality minature torque wrench
to keep a leak free, flate valve body. (Like for any other trans)

Don't forget on very high km units to also replace the electronic pressure sensor assembly as this can fill with crud below the screens effecting the sensors. Incorrect signals back to the PCM can effect shift quality.

Regards,
Ausmartin

[mcsquirt]

All the 4L60-E boxes are controlled by the computer ... If you do a manual shift from D back to First or Second above certain speeds the box will prevent that shift by not energising the shift solenoids.

If the speed is low enough the shift will be allowed...

Inappropriate messing with the tables in the PCM can also shorten the life of the box...


The thing that kills more auto boxes than anything else is not servicing them regularly or not having a decent transmission oil cooler - If you do a lot of city / high speed driving or towing. The recommended interval for a transmission service on an auto is every 20,000 km or once a year (whichever comes first)... City Driving (lots of short cycles of start & stop and sitting in "D") is also harsh on the box they run HOT - this City cycle is harsh because it drives lots of shifting up and down with low air flow over the radiator ... compared to what happens on a freeway run where the box in in TCC in lockup and cruising in top gear...

Likewise if the transmission is "popping codes" or "going into LIMP HOME MODE" it is a warning that something is not working properly... If you ignore this and keep driving it - the Simple fixes (like solenoids failing etc) turn into major rebuilds...ie the clutch packs / TCC get burned up.

[pelagonia_ss]

Whats the point of shifting. Keep it in drive.

[silvervyss]

It's something I don't do too much anyway but sometimes I would like to keep it in 3rd when going at 80km/h so that the auto doesn't change up and down all the time. I also would like to use it around town where I wouldn't even need to use 3rd and rev it out more like a manual.

cheers.

I keep my car in 3rd for speeds under 80; which in Albury is the majority of my driving. I find that the tranny doesn't "wonder" with gear changing.

[Drewie]

About the only time I downshift mine is on the highway when overtaking,
I manually shift from 4 to 3 prior to overtaking, seems a lot smoother shift than letting the box kick down and has a lot more oomph in 3rd than 4th.
Rest of the time I just leave it in D, the only other time I might is if on a long winding descent say in the mountains, I would pre-empt the long descent and shift down prior to the descent to take a bit off the brakes and have a bit of engine braking on the way down and a bit more control.