Ok, as an A/C tech of over 8 years, considering the make of your vehicle $150 to diagnose a fault in it is pretty reasonable as they can be a bloody prick of a system to diagnose & can be very time consuming.
First issue I look for is if the compressor is engaging & running when you activate the a/c button.
If it is & you arent getting any cold air inside on these systems its necessary to recover all the gas out of the system & then regas & retest.
The delphi compressors in VT onwards have whats called a control valve in the compressor that regulates refrigerant flow & regardless of gas charge appear on the gauges that they are functioning correctly - i.e show normal pressure.
The only way to ascertain if its low gas or dud control valve is to remove all gas from the system & put the correct weight of gas in the system - if it still doesnt work then the control valve is the issue, if it does work then the original issue was caused by low refrigerant - at this point before recovering gas I usually do a visual check to see if there are any oil marks around hoses alluding to low refrigerant, these cars are very common to leak around the compressor o'rings.
So if its the latter & its low gas, on to further testing we go - by this stage we have already wasted at least half an hour to 45 mins.
If we have identified its a low refrigerant charge then we have to go looking for where the bloody hell its all gone.
Usually we do whats called a nitrogen test, which requires us to yet again recover the refrigerant out of the system & inject it with nitrogen & then go over every single hose & o'ring join with a soapy solution that bubbles to show up leak points.
Depending on how quickly you can find a leak, this can take a considerable amount of time if you have to start pulling off covers etc to get to hoses & components.
This can take anywhere from 15 mins to 30 mins.
If the nitrogen test didnt show up anything - which 9 times out of 10 it does - we then regas the system and put in a UV dye and let it run for an hour or so & then go over it all again with a UV light to identify the leak - you can waste another 15 - 30 mins here again.
So as you can see, especially with this sort of vehicle, it can be extremely time consuming in finding the fault & a lot of people dont realise the amount of work we have to do to find it.
And thats not your fault for not understanding the process, if you had any querys the dealer should have been able to run you through the process they took to test your vehicle.
But having said that, we have different stages of testing that we always contact the customer before progressing so it then falls back on them & not us and then they understand whats going on.
From what you have shown in the quote, I would say if the compressor needs to be replaced then its either the compressor body seal that has failed(cant replace them) or the compressor shaft has been snapped.
In either case its necessary to replace the TX valve & receiver drier & flush the system otherwise it will void the compressor warranty.
If you are thinking about going the second hand route, id strongly advise against it as we have had MANY customers that have fit up second hand compressors and bought them in to have them re-gassed only to have them fail shortly after - to the point that we no longer re-gas anything that a customer has fitted themselves as we cannot guarantee the work.
Save your money & do it right the first time as you will only have to pay labor twice & I would be extremely surprised if Holden gave you warranty for second hand parts.
On another note - Legally, anyone licenced to use R134a refrigerant CAN NOT re-gas any vehicle that has a leak in the system, nor can they re-gas a system that has been opened & has not had the receiver drier replaced.
Due to the carbon tax, the price of R134a has skyrocketed & your average re-gas is around $170 - $200 alone now days - we figured out the other day that one charge of gas now has $80 in tax alone applied to it - thats even before the supplier charges us!!
If anyone is taking their later model car in for a "Re-gas" & consequently paying under $200 & not having any faults fixed or drier changed, I would be very strongly be questioning them what refrigerant they are putting in your system.
There are all sorts of nasty "blends" of refrigerant out there, most that dont need licenses & you can buy them over the counter at bursons.
Sounds good in theory, but brands such as Hychill are an LPG based refrigerant & are not designed for R134a systems & dont handle the heat well so usually fall over on a hot day.
But the bigger issue with them is that they tend to dry out the refrigerant oil & we have seen a few of them lead to catastrophic compressor failure on later model cars.
Stay clear of anyone offering a "re-gas".
Sorry for the long reply, but hopefully it answers your questions.