From my understanding
OEM prefer the lighter oils as it better for meeting emission tests and is better for fuel economy. So to me the 5w40 fits this.
For people who have modified their cars to extract more power and tent to use WOT and the full rev range you are better off with a heavier oil for those high stress times, hence the 10w60.
I think your on the money too kev, my logic says this is the way to go and holden recommends 10w30. I put 10w60 in mine from the advice on this forum but I don't race mine or give it too much of a hard time and it's stock so I think the edge 5w40 will be fine in mine.
Thanks for the link chukka. Read that post a while ago but couldn't find it when posting this thread.
Guys, run what you want, I don't give a flying!!
HOWEVER, my advice still stands, if you run 300kw at the flywheel then you should be running a 10w60 group IV.
As an experiment we changed Maritimo back from 10w60 to 20w50 and doubled the wear in the engines, that was a no brainer!!!
The thicker the film of oil the less the wear (I draw the line at 10w60 my self, no thicker)
As for noisy lifters, there is no logical rule here, thin can make them quite and thick can make them quite,
and for the record that doesn't make sense, as it's leaking oil from the small hydraulic ram (lifter) that makes it clack,
and I haven't seen a reasonable answer that allows lifters to bleed down, new and old, you can replace them and they can do the same!
You either have metal in your oil or you don't, only Filtergram can tell correctly how your motors running.
We have a Nissan GTR35 in Canada stays outside -25C with Mainlube right through, 10w60 starts and runs fine, if there was a problem this is where we would see it!
This has been covered 100 times
Cheers
Steve
Last edited by Blown 454 AWD; 03-03-2014 at 06:54 AM.
All in all. How many company's would offer an alternative to their oil if they thought people might find theirs a bit pricey? What Steve has suggested is what he believes is the next best product to his.
Thanks for your comment Steve, didn't mean to fire you up. The thing I'm just trying to get my head around is with such fine tolerances in the machining process of motors these days is the thicker oil doing more harm than good in a stock ls1. You don't have to answer as I guess you've already covered it.
No drama guys, just get this on all forums after a while, people need reminding.
Maritimo run their engines on sea water for cooling (yes in alloy V12 Lanbo's as well) and run quite cold (which I don't agree with)
So the oil would NEVER get anywhere near 100C so game over there as well
Just things we have already tried and decided what we had was best.
Dynoing my Mainlube 175 10w60 against the 175 0w40 their was no difference with power in back to back pulls.
So fluid friction doesn't come into it with our oil.
Cheers
Steve
Ok one more question. Why does edge 10w60 have such a high visco at 40 degrees (159) compared to say Elf excellium 10w50 at 40 degrees (115). If there both 10w why such a big difference.
You have a 10w50 and a 10w60, the 10w60 must be a greater viscosity to achieve the 60.
The V.I. (Viscosity Index) is the oils ability to hold viscosity and not thin as much under high temperatures,
when you drop a bucket of V.I. in the oil, the V.I additive is about SAE 1200 so it will thicken the oil a little at
40C, because it's a 60 it will have a slightly bigger base oil as well.
The 2 you've shown are SAE 30 and SAE 40 @ 40C (in SAE terms) you have quoted cSt@40C
Even though the lower Viscosity is 10w on both, one would assume they are are same when cold, not quite,
that's the SAE spec, in reality the 60 will be a little thicker than the 50 at lower temps.
The thing to look at here is 100C, that's where the 50 and 60 will differ, and when you say too thick,
Both have a freeze point of minus -36C (Group IV Base Oil) however, at 0C 20w50 is 2950 cSt and 10w60 is 3450 cSt so you can see the subtle difference.
Does get confusing around here if your not up to your armpits init.
SAE 10 is 32cSt@40C, 10w60@100C is around 25cSt, about SAE 8-9 much more protection and if it doesn't suck any power being thicker,
That's the problem? SAE can be quite misleading, best to work off cSt@40C or 100C
Cheers
Steve
Last edited by Blown 454 AWD; 05-03-2014 at 07:20 AM.
Great explanation Steve!![]()
Thanks for the reply Steve, oils ain't oils.
I sent away various samples of Castrol Edge 10w60 to oil testing companies, and they kept stuffing up or contaminating them so I gave up. Really would like to get an analysis done.
FWIW the local mechanic put Edge 25w50 on my car's first service when it was bolt on only, the ticking was very audible until the engine warmed up, of course when it was filled with 10w60 it went away.
Unfortunately without people getting Filtergrams or UOAs, it's all opinion and conjecture (apart from professional opinion like Steve's.) I've mentioned this on at least one other forum where there was an oil discussion.
I agree if there was a lower cost Mainlube 10w60 I'd buy it, as Edge is $80-90 when not on special, and most of the local parts stores no longer stock it in favour of Penrite.
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