Charging my LS1 soon

[Micks]

I am certain of the 1900 now after reading through this thread.

Everyone seems to have a cam with their blower, what am i missing out on?

Im already up for 12 grand or whatever for the blower another 7 grand to do a cam upgrade hardly seems worth it. Given ill need to do the internals too right?

Ya blower install price drive in drive out sounds right. But an extra 7K for a cam upgrade way too much, 3-3.5k tops especially so at the same time blower goes on as it will only need tuning/dyno time once!
You would get cam + Heads & Lifters for your 7K!!

[Crazykent]

Ok just to give you all a run down of whats going on. Because i am planning this out until the time comes to do it and want it all to be spot on.

Car:

VZ SS ute
Auto
3.7s
110,000 on the clock
previous lady owner
i dont do burnouts
Stock brakes
monroe gt gas shocks
super lows

Plan:

Diffilipo 3 inch exhaust with 1 7/8 headers
harrop 1900
7psi
tuned for 98 (i spose?)
Growler airbox

Any suggestions power-wise?

My plan is to get the blower put on, then get the brakes upgraded (i dont know what to). Then get the auto built, then some coilovers.

Also i have the option of going magnison 1900 or harrop, apparently the whine on the mag is less, wouldnt i be better going with the quieter whine so
i dont get sick of it?

[Crazykent]

Depends how aggressive the cam is. I mean if you go big, yeah the costs really add up. But if your doing a blower (which means a retune) getting a blower specific cam (something like the stock GT9 cam) wont require a big outlay. Decent set of springs (Which you should do anyway) and the cam itself. Considering your already paying for the tune, its worth looking at. Again though, im talking a small blower specific cam... Anything "big" is a different story in terms of cost.

ok, i will look into that! But just for the sake of it, what will that add to the car? better sound and? im just curiously excited, i know the more power/torque i add
the more things i have to reinforce but yeh i just like knowing whats to come.

[Crazykent]

Ya blower install price drive in drive out sounds right. But an extra 7K for a cam upgrade way too much, 3-3.5k tops especially so at the same time blower goes on as it will only need tuning/dyno time once!
You would get cam + Heads & Lifters for your 7K!!

Mmm that 7k was a price for changing all the internals that a cam upgrade could affect, i can't remember what the guy said exactly but yeh. nevermind lol

[Micks]

Purely a guess without a cam if your LS1 is in good nick @ present would estimate about 350rwkw+ but it all depends...The torque will be something else though
Yes don't overlook, Brakes, Drivetrain, Suspension & probably Fuel system as well, most important!

[white lie]

Fuel system for sure.
At least a big intank pump like the Walbro, otherwise use the stock pump to feed a surge tank, but either way you have to drop the tank to do it, so may as well just put a Walbro in there, at least you know it's new and shouldn't die anytime soon.

I put my blower on with the stock 6psi pulley, made 450rwhp thru a big stalled auto. I was back in a week to change the pulley to a 10psi one. IMO even though it made good power, it didn't feel enough for the cost of everything. The smaller pulley is only about $200 and will yield another 30-50rwhp.

If you want more noise you can put toothed gears on the back of either of them. Otherwise leave the normal drives on there and they'll be pretty quiet. Would struggle to hear mine over the exhaust

[Crazykent]

Purely a guess without a cam if your LS1 is in good nick @ present would estimate about 350rwkw+ but it all depends...The torque will be something else though
Yes don't overlook, Brakes, Drivetrain, Suspension & probably Fuel system as well, most important!

Hehe i am getting excited. In a way a man can get excited about a car, addrenaline lol.

fuel system and trans cooler is included in total blower price. im pretty sure.

[Crazykent]

Fuel system for sure.
At least a big intank pump like the Walbro, otherwise use the stock pump to feed a surge tank, but either way you have to drop the tank to do it, so may as well just put a Walbro in there, at least you know it's new and shouldn't die anytime soon.

I put my blower on with the stock 6psi pulley, made 450rwhp thru a big stalled auto. I was back in a week to change the pulley to a 10psi one. IMO even though it made good power, it didn't feel enough for the cost of everything. The smaller pulley is only about $200 and will yield another 30-50rwhp.

If you want more noise you can put toothed gears on the back of either of them. Otherwise leave the normal drives on there and they'll be pretty quiet. Would struggle to hear mine over the exhaust

Ok ill mention that to autotechnique, whos doing it. I just cant remember what was said about the fuel system when we spoke thats all.

So you reckon just put the 10psi straight on?

toothed gears on what? on the blower? Sorry im not clued in on a lot of this stuff.

Thanks for everything man. Very helpful. Same to you Micks.

[Micks]

Reckon that ain't a bad deal! Don't get excited on proposed dyno/power figures though as the balloon could be prematurely deflated!!
Rest assured any increase will give you a smile you won't forget in a while!!

[Crazykent]

Reckon that ain't a bad deal! Don't get excited on proposed dyno/power figures though as the balloon could be prematurely deflated!!
Rest assured any increase will give you a smile you won't forget in a while!!

Haha understood! Good rhyme :-)

[v8fazz]

Ok ill mention that to autotechnique, whos doing it. I just cant remember what was said about the fuel system when we spoke thats all.

So you reckon just put the 10psi straight on?

toothed gears on what? on the blower? Sorry im not clued in on a lot of this stuff.

Thanks for everything man. Very helpful. Same to you Micks.

You can get a toothed rear belt/pully set up that remove the chance of any belt slip at the back but they are definitely a lot louder than the standard rear belts. I was a bit worried at first about how loud it was but now I wouldnt have it any other way! The belts whistle quite loud even when idling, and then you put your foot down and the whistle is joined by the whine from the actual blower and its great, VERY Addictive! The toothed set up also gives you a little bit of overdrive as well for a slight increase in boost.

If you do step it up to 10 psi with the smaller pully I'd also highly recommend the front belt idler re-wrap kit that re-routes the front belt under the radiator hose and gives you a lot more belt wrap around the front pully. Ive had no signs of any belt slip front or rear with this set up at 10 psi.

[Crazykent]

You can get a toothed rear belt/pully set up that remove the chance of any belt slip at the back but they are definitely a lot louder than the standard rear belts. I was a bit worried at first about how loud it was but now I wouldnt have it any other way! The belts whistle quite loud even when idling, and then you put your foot down and the whistle is joined by the whine from the actual blower and its great, VERY Addictive! The toothed set up also gives you a little bit of overdrive as well for a slight increase in boost.

If you do step it up to 10 psi with the smaller pully I'd also highly recommend the front belt idler re-wrap kit that re-routes the front belt under the radiator hose and gives you a lot more belt wrap around the front pully. Ive had no signs of any belt slip front or rear with this set up at 10 psi.

I guess im worrying about something i know next to nothing about im sure ill learn to love the sound.

Could you elaborate on belt slip? is it bad? it seems i'd lose a bit of power? but wont wear out the belt as quick?

i will mention the re-wrap kit to the mech.

[white lie]

Its bad as it slips the pulley on the blower, which means it doesn't turn fast enough to produce the desired boost. But more so that it's erratic, it will spin and slip as it grips or doesn't grip which can be bad for the motor as the boost will be up and down like a yo-yo rather than a flat line. Usually happens in the upper revs.

The re-wrap kit allows a lot more contact area around the pulley.

[Crazykent]

ok chit hot ill get it then thanks brotha

[v8fazz]

Just as a bit of a guide for you, here are the prices I paid mid last year-

Gilmore Rear Drive Kit $522.50inc GST (1.14:1 OR 1.03:1 ratios available)
6PK Idler Re-Wrap $236.50inc GST

As you can see things can add up very quickly. Also keep in mind that if you do take it up to 10psi theres a good chance you might have to also get bigger injectors as I did. The ones that came with the blower werent enough. I have the 1.14:1 Gilmore rear drive, 80mm front pully, idler re-wrap kit, and standard diameter aftermarket balancer for 10psi.