Performance Increase Recommendation

[CAPRICE005]

Hey Everyone,

New member here, I have used these forums for alot of research/information to help with my recent purchase of a 2011 Ruby Red Holden Caprice V Series 2 (V8 AFM, Auto) only has 60'024kms.
I have also had some basic modifications made to the caprice to help it breath a little bit better.

Mods:
2-1/2" Xforce Full Exhaust System Including Hi Flow Cats & Extractors
VCM OTR
Tune

The above has improved it from 200ish rwkw to 266rwkw and 520NM torque by Elite Automotive in Brisbane.

Now I know that being a AFM engine the cam in it more fuel efficiency rather then performance
And standard auto is slow getting all that weight moving from a stop start.
Diff - I have no idea of ratio's or how they work to improve acceleration? (All I know is mine is non-lsd)

My Question,

Can someone please give me some bits of advice on ways to improve the acceleration of this vehicle?
Once the car gets moving it really moves from 80kph onwards.... it pulls quite hard, but down low it really struggles. I have seen a few auto Ve SS that pull quite hard from a stop even struggling with traction from both wheels (Lsd) without being heavily modded (similar mods to myself)

I love the look of the caprice being the LWB and like the thought that people don't look twice at it when it's at lights until it gets moving when it really has a nice deep note.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I would like to try doing some of the work myself rather then booking into a shop (Take a bit of pride in my ride)

Cheers

Pete

[Wonky]

Your diff will be a 2.92 ratio. Going numerically higher will give better acceleration. Most people with VE autos go for either 3.27 (HSV A6 ratio) or 3.45 (Holden VE M6 ratio). I put a 3.45 in my A6 ute and love it - pulls away from roundabouts etc much more readily. Someone on here tried their A6 at the drags with different ratios over time and found HSV seem to have got it right i.e. produced the best times. Not an apples for apples comparison but I had an SSV sedan with stock 2.92 diff and basic bolt ons it managed a best of 13.17 down the quarter. My slightly heavier SSV ute with very similar mods and virtually identical power did a best of 12.83 at the same track.

Some people with the A6 even go to 3.7 (HSV M6 ratio) but many people think that's gone too far the other way as it makes 1st too short. Obviously your cruising RPM will change. Mine went from about 1500rpm at 100kmh with 2.92 to a bit over 1800 with the 3.45. Minimal if any effect on consumption, even at highway speeds. You may even find a 3.27 or 3.45 improves consumption around town because the motor isn't having to work so hard to get the big heavy car moving.

Have they tuned your A6?

[Micks]

Great advice Gaz, yes the 3.27 unit in an A6 is a good compromise.

[CAPRICE005]

Hey Gaz, Thankyou for the in-depth explanation on the diff ratio's. It really helps explain which is the best ratio to aim for and start searching the net for a lsd diff.
I can pretty much guarantee that the auto wasn't touched with tunning as it's flaring a lot and really struggles to pick the best gears when accelerating from cruising speed, Seems to hesitate in dropping down a gear unless to get the speed just right. It's very much still setup to compliment the stock afm setup!

I wouldn't take the car back to the same guys again as they seemed to struggle with the basic tune, after 2 attempts they still couldn't fix the car struggling to turn over on cold start.
And I'm not sure what they did with the tune but at lights now, If I don't firmly push the brake pedal in the car wants to always lurch forward and is idling higher (fuel says 3l / 100kph)when idling???

But I would like to find someone in Brisbane who can tune the auto and possibly try and sort the fine tunning out.

I'm trying to chase up the following:

Basic Brake Upgrade (VE SSV Redline Brakes & Slotted Rotors?) Is this a good value upgrade?
Basic Suspension Upgrade (Bilsteins & King Springs? or other package to firm the ride up abit while not feeling like bumpstops only) plus gives it a nice look
Cam package to finally delete the AFM setup and put in a decent set of lifters (Mine make abit of noise)
I would love to turbo or supercharge but have been told to budget $15'000 so that's out for the moment (We are building a house at the moment so can't spend that type of money yet)

Is there anything through your experiences that would be good upgrades for the value???

Again thank you so much for the advice and guidance (This is my first V8 - I was a GTR owner and this is all new territory)

Cheers Pete

[BigAnt]

G'day Pete, I have never personally used them, but Hi-Torque Performance have a great reputation on here and would be my first port of call.
Alot of people put the 4 pot brake calipers from the Cadillac CTS-V on their sedans, should fit the caprice but I'm not 100% on that. Wheel offset might be an issue?
http://www.empireperformance.com.au/92-brake-kits

[Wonky]

A decent A6 tune is a must!

I put a set of new Brembo Redline brakes on the ute a few months ago and they really came to the fore yesterday in particular when a group of us from another forum had a cruise which involved mile after mile of winding and hilly road - they were awesome! Greatly improved my braking confidence.

[BigAnt]

Did you have a larger oil pan in your auto too Wonky? Thought I remembered reading about it somewhere?

[graphicgoose]

This thread is good timing. I've just got myself an auto VF SSV Redline and have considered changing my diff gears to 3.27 unit. How much does it cost to get changed out? And is it still ideal if bolting on a blower in the future?

[Wonky]

Did you have a larger oil pan in your auto too Wonky? Thought I remembered reading about it somewhere?

Yep, have a baffled Cadillac A6 pan BigAnt. Will be the first mod to go on if I end up with another A6.

[BLACK 346]

Yep, have a baffled Cadillac A6 pan BigAnt. Will be the first mod to go on if I end up with another A6.

A little off topic, buy what sort of $ are we looking at for the bigger pan purchased and installed Wonky?

[Wonky]

This thread is good timing. I've just got myself an auto VF SSV Redline and have considered changing my diff gears to 3.27 unit. How much does it cost to get changed out? And is it still ideal if bolting on a blower in the future?

Holmart.com.au have brand new shot peened 3.45 centres for around $1700. 3.27 centres are rarer and harder to come by. I was lucky enough when my ute was near new to pick up a very low km 3.45 complete for just over $500 delivered from Adelaide from someone on here who was changing it in his M6 for a 3.7. Then sold my very low km 2.92 centre for about half that to someone else on here who just wanted an LSD in his WM, so the changeover cost me SFA. That's the best way if you're lucky.

Changing gears is around $1200 typically.

[Wonky]

A little off topic, buy what sort of $ are we looking at for the bigger pan purchased and installed Wonky?

In the Filling A6 thread started by Holdan there is a link to the wide mouth filter kit including deep pan and gasket on the lasr pag or two. I'll get mine from Pace Performance if I need one as have dealt with them before and they were great. Probably around just over $A200 delivered at current exchange rates. Labour I'm not really sure of but not that long and about 10 litres of Dexron 6.

[BigAnt]

graphicgoose, if you are definitely getting a blower, I would see how that goes first. Might be enough torque to not worry about diff gears.

[CAPRICE005]

Hey Guys,

Wonky thanks for the info again..... I'm definitely looking at the brake upgrade as a must "was told most ve brake kits should fit the wm as it's basically a ve stretched and they used a lot of ve v8 items on the wm (wheels I have at the moment are stock but will be either fitting a set of 19" vf Calais /Caprice wheels or some 20" Gmax wheels
I'm trying to keep a subtle look while making all the hidden work like a track car.
I'll have to start sniffing around for someone who can tune the a6 and then get stuck into the diff at the same time, as I definitely want the lsd aswell.
Also the pan upgrade and extra items for the auto is great as it can only help with keeping the auto running at it's best.

Also any recommendations on what to do next after the diff and auto upgrade/tune?
From what I 've read it seems to be roughly cam or cam & heads or forced induction but I'm unsure of cost for heads and whether it's worth it for my basic end goal of 400kw at the wheels on 98 pump gas.

I'm at 266rwkw, figure cam would push to 290-310rwkw for a cam and dod afm delete kit them to hit high 300's would need to push some boost through as I would like to keep some drivability (I don't mind having to deal with a decent size cam but deffinately not looking for a high 3000+ rpm stall if you get what I mean. It's a family car after all

Would my numbers be roughly correct? any suggestions on pushing those numbers any further with other good value for money upgrades?

I've been told expect the $ figures below

Auto Tune $500 - $1000
Diff $895 - $1400 (depends on condition & whether install myself or by shop)
ASE Turbo 1000 Kit or Magnusson Heartbeat Supercharger Kit - $10'000
Redline SSV Brakes Kits - $800/$1200 for fronts and $600/800 for rears
Bilstein Suspension Kit - $1400 or Formula/Monroe Gt & King Spring Kit - $800

Again all the numbers above depend on availability and whether I do the work myself or a shop does it...

[Bling Bling]

OMG those wheels but each to there own..