VZ Crewman 6L Mounts

[Micks]

Hey guys thought I'd share, was a little bored today & after having my new engine & gearbox mounts sitting in a box now for quite a few weeks thought today being about 28 deg & fuk all else to do would set out & change them out. I did have a look at the VZ shop manual & they recommended both headers/exhaust manifolds out to do the job but can be done without that. I did move my AC comp forward on the OS to give more space to R&R it though. The gearbox mount was sweet but have a look at the two engine mounts absolutely rooted! WP_20151219_003.jpg
The one on the left with the 10mm drill I put in the cracked section was from the NS the other with the 6mm bit was from the OS. Have been noticing lately when the Crewie was under load especially on a hill start would give some undue mechanical noise & vibration. Hope this helps someone else chasing noise in there ride.
Never know it could be worth a coupla more RWKW

[black_friday]

Holy crap are they originals?

[Micks]

Holy crap are they originals?

Pretty sure they were only, had this Crewie for 30K now.

[Ned_Flanders666]

Just confirming if I was to do the driver side mount I can get away with moving the ac compressor forward I wont have to take the exhaust manifold off? Did you have to remove the alloy bracket that attaches to the engine block to remove the mount? I did the passenger side, but I removed the alloy bracket and manifold to get the mount out. My tools of choice were jack stands, a block of timber and trolley jack to support the engine and a socket set with a swivel extension.

[Micks]

Yes it can be done without removing manifold though the oem shop manual says you do. The ally mount bracket needs to come off as you can't jack the engine high enough to clear the mount studs. Block of wood under the sump is a good idea also.

[SASLS1]

When I replaced my broken mounts, it can be done with only removing the Aluminium block mounts, didn't have to remove the headers or the A/C compressor.

I only pulled the battery out for easier access on the drivers side.

I did it with the car on jack stands, and a block of wood under the sump, lifting the engine up as high as it would go without bending anything.

I used a breaker bar with a pivoting end and socket to undo the driver side aluminium block mount bolts from under the car. Only way I could access the bolts, and torque them up again.

[Micks]

When I replaced my broken mounts, it can be done with only removing the Aluminium block mounts, didn't have to remove the headers or the A/C compressor.

I only pulled the battery out for easier access on the drivers side.

I did it with the car on jack stands, and a block of wood under the sump, lifting the engine up as high as it would go without bending anything.

I used a breaker bar with a pivoting end and socket to undo the driver side aluminium block mount bolts from under the car. Only way I could access the bolts, and torque them up again.

Yeah the man. said nothing about needing to move the comp. but just made it a little easier to get in there.

[SASLS1]

Here's 4 pics of my passenger side mount, it had completely torn in half, only the internally safety retention device was holding it together.

It had a full 10mm of freeplay up and down. Nice Not...

The drivers mount had split all around, but hadn't fully torn in half.

I replaced them with TTT mounts, no more broke mounts...

[SASLS1]

I found the source on my L/H engine bay rusty water squirter too, when I pulled the L/H mount.

It use to squirt rusty water stains all around my passengers side header, which use to drive me friggen nuts...

Now it stays nice and clean...

[Ned_Flanders666]

Thanks for the replies. I will give it a go.

[Micks]

It had a full 10mm of freeplay up and down. Nice Not...

The drivers mount had split all around, but hadn't fully torn in half.

I replaced them with TTT mounts, no more broke mounts...

Yeah my NS mount is in post #1 on the left with the 10mm drill bit I wedge in it to illustrate how rooted it was. Crewie has approx. 90k & on oem mounts too. I fitted up some a/m oem style ones & noticed the engine sits approx. 20mm higher in the bay. 3 1/2 years ago had some work done to the engine & the torque increased another odd 100nm but that would have nothing to do with the rooted mounts

[SASLS1]

These were my OEM original mounts, replaced them around the 80K to 90K kms too, but I think they were stuffed alot early, as I had the rusty water squirter crap long before I replaced them.

With the TTT mounts, there is very minimal engine movement now, which is great.

My trans mount wasn't broken when I did the engine mounts, so it still lives fighting on, holding in there hahaha...

[Micks]

Yeah they are oil/fluid filled & smell much like mineral diff oil to me. I replaced all three thinking there all been there 90K & the T56 ain't no light box!

[SASLS1]

My mount oil all leaked out and was replaced with rusty water, what a great water collecting & squirting design, what a mess that made hahaha...

Weighed my T56 when I replaced my clutch as a matter of interest, 70kg with bell housing and 4.5 litres full of oil...