I did my E2 with DBA rotors but different pads. Can't remember which now. Rotors were good.
Ive done 37,000kms and the discs have a nice lip on them and its time to do pads and rotors.
If I go genuine HSV its going to be very $$$
I got this quote from Brakes Direct:
Our pick on parts to suit is the DBA 4000 Series HD Curved Slotted rotors (exactly the same slots as factory) and QFM HPX pads. HPX are a Bendix Ultimate equivalent pad performance wise, but very low dust and rotor wear.
• Front Rotors $291.20 each
• Rear Rotors $235.20 each
• Front Pads $109 for the set
• Rear Pads $79 for the set
• Super Dot 4 Brake Fluid $9.97 per 500mL
I can get them fitted myself no probs, my question is are they cheap nastys?
Brakes are just the factory E3 senator ones, not upgraded 6 pots.
Cheers Jimmy
Get Thrashed!
I did my E2 with DBA rotors but different pads. Can't remember which now. Rotors were good.
Those QFM pads are not in the same league as the Bendix ultimate.
I would avoid them like the plague. Why not get some ferodo DS of your liking?
JJW
May be an idea to get a price off Matt at racebrakes too: sales@racebrakessydney.com.au
I used the QFM pads on my VZ Clubsport at a sprint day at Phillip Island and I was very impressed with them.
OK well maybe I just had bad luck?
I installed the QFM HPX pads after seeing them recommended on this site as good for spirited performance driving with the odd track day.
I had them installed F+R, and drove about 2000kms on the road. The performance was underwhelming at best, but I thought maybe they would come good at high temperature at the track.
No. They still felt like shit.
They also seemed to be constructed out of ice cream as they simply melted onto the rotors. They lasted less than two 15 minute sessions and I was down to bare metal F+R.
On this day I drove into town and got some Bendix Ultimates for the rear from Repco (no Brembo pads in stock). They are still in place and have now done several track days.
I relayed my experience to QFM who were kind enough to send me some A1RM (front only!!) and blamed metallurgy of the stock rotors etc for my above mentioned problem.
Anyhow, I then installed some DBA 5000 rotors and Hawk HP Plus due to their high temperature rating and high friction coefficient.
These pads are VERY sharp, exvcellent pedal feel. They actually overwhelm the stock ABS, it is not calibrated for how much friction they have. You can skid your wheels with these pads, which I did not mind as I find ABS intrusive at times.
The down side is that these pads will ruin your rotors in short time. If you brake at night, you see sparks flying up the side of the car as they are so abrasive they are just stripping metal off the rotors.
After 40,000km, my rotors were WAY past the normal wear limit, the pads were only about 1/3 worn!
I am now running Ferodo Sport and whilst they do not have an aggressive feel at the pedal, they are lasting well and not trashing my DBA5000 rotors, even with more spirited use than the average punter.
Next time round I would go slightly more aggressive, maybe DS2500?
Fact is, the stock pads, and anything else I have tried, are far superior to HPX pads.
The commodore platform is a big heavy pile of shit; brakes will always be an issue and consumable.
Whilst I am braking I yawn and wait a little while......but you can't wipe the smile off my face when I am drifting this thing.
It is not a fast car - it is a FUN CHEAP car! Appreciate it for what it is, but DO NOT put HPX on!
This has good brakes......but not much drifting! Horses for courses!
JJW
Last edited by JJW501; 18-05-2016 at 10:12 PM.
SMITTY
Member PIARC HSCCV Old Fart Racing
GEN-F R8 340 Clubsport Tourer VK race car Kwaka ZX12R
I'm running RDA rotors and EBC Red Stuff on my MY09 Senator. Pretty good all round though I haven't done any track work with them. Seem to hang together ok for fast street use but have struggled a bit after repeated higher speed stops....on private roads, of course. I have a feeling it has something to do with the slot design as there are more dots than slots, unlike the factory or DBA rotors.
Was around $1000 for the whole car from eBay - Brakes Online, I think. Price included freight.
Mick
Last edited by QIKMIK; 21-05-2016 at 12:35 PM.
The Taxi - MY09 Senator Signature
The Workhorse - VZ One Tonner
The Daily - Kawasaki ZX-10R
It is not just a matter of pads and rotors.
You can boil the fluid quite easily on the stock system.
Only brakes I have not experienced this with is the lotus (launch edition), which is much lighter and has larger brakes than my redline equipped ute. And is mid engined so the braking bias is much more 50/50. Or any productions superbike -amazing performance for price!
I have not run EBC pads on the ute, but maybe I will try a set soon for the sake of it. 183,000kms now, it has gets enthusiastic use over a range of surfaces. I drove 50 odd kms on dirt today with NT05 tyres and a dirt bike on the back. Ate it up!
But there is no magic braking ticket - the holden based cars are too heavy and the braking system is a taxi pack in terms of lines/booster. Big calipers and rotors help but there is more to the story with cooling etc on a performance car.
R35 GTR is an example of a heavy car with a good brake setup, but in a whole different price bracket.
The LSA GTS series seem to have some massive brakes but I have not driven one. Not too sure how they hold up to track abuse?
The problem is, your road car is never going to be a race car. The lotus pisses all over the ute for lap times, but then you drive a track-only lotus and the road lotus feels like a boat in comparison.
But fun does not a lot of need money. Some of the cheapest/best fun I have had is behind the wheel of a second hand $1500 CRG kart.
Drop the clutch, do a skid, have fun!
JJW
The DS2500 compounds is an all round good pad and will cover all your street duties and light track work no worries. Depends on the track but for a fairly stock car, you will get quite a few fliers in before having a slow down lap to let it all cool. On a street car, you probably want to be doing it anyway to keep your engine oil at a reasonable temp.
The DS3000 is the next step up but takes some time to come up to temp.. really track only.
You can get the DBAs very cheap from International Tyre Trader (Forum Sposnor), might be worth a look. Grab some semis while you are at it and some AP600 fluid![]()
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