Radiator & Coolant for VY LS1

[mechatron]

Genuine GM radiator ordered and I decided to get the Nulon long life red concentrated coolant (not pre-mixed) so I could buy the 6L and 2.5L bottles. Just need to get new hoses, clamps and a thermostat

[BLACK 346]

Genuine GM radiator ordered and I decided to get the Nulon long life red concentrated coolant (not pre-mixed) so I could buy the 6L and 2.5L bottles. Just need to get new hoses, clamps and a thermostat

Sounds good. How old is the water pump? My VT2 SS gave up at about the 100k mark from memory, radiator went at about 105k (split side tank).

[mechatron]

Sounds good. How old is the water pump? My VT2 SS gave up at about the 100k mark from memory, radiator went at about 105k (split side tank).

Hmmm, I did think about the water pump and it hasn’t been changed as yet. My car has only 81,000kms on the clock but it is over 14 years old too. Maybe I get this changed too at the same time?

[Micks]

Hmmm, I did think about the water pump and it hasn’t been changed as yet. My car has only 81,000kms on the clock but it is over 14 years old too. Maybe I get this changed too at the same time?

Should you replace the pump, careful who you buy off, got one off evilBay for my 6L a few yrs back & would not seal off at the heads!! Ended up with one from supercheap & it was a beauty!!

[BLACK 346]

Hmmm, I did think about the water pump and it hasn’t been changed as yet. My car has only 81,000kms on the clock but it is over 14 years old too. Maybe I get this changed too at the same time?

I would give it a visual check whilst you have everything out, I know this is not going to be conclusive but you will at least be able to spot any leaks. If you want to spend the money then I guess you could just replace it. Is it a daily driver? How many k's are you doing each year? If the car is a weekender I would just take a punt and leave the current pump in if it aint leaking

https://alanmancestore.com.au/genuin..._content=store

[mechatron]

Should you replace the pump, careful who you buy off, got one off evilBay for my 6L a few yrs back & would not seal off at the heads!! Ended up with one from supercheap & it was a beauty!!

Good advice, thanks bud

[mechatron]

I would give it a visual check whilst you have everything out, I know this is not going to be conclusive but you will at least be able to spot any leaks. If you want to spend the money then I guess you could just replace it. Is it a daily driver? How many k's are you doing each year? If the car is a weekender I would just take a punt and leave the current pump in if it aint leaking

https://alanmancestore.com.au/genuin..._content=store

Yes we’ll have a good look when everything is out. My car is only a weekender and hardly gets driven fortnightly. Kilometre wise I’d probably do maybe 2000km per year. And thank you for the link for the pump, they’re really not expensive are they

[mechatron]

Actually just another question. Am I meant to use any coolant pellets/tablets when I fill my new radiator with the red long life coolant?

[Micks]

Actually just another question. Am I meant to use any coolant pellets/tablets when I fill my new radiator with the red long life coolant?

No not really necessary, you can get an electrolysis check if you want. As you found most times these rads fail due to flexing/cracking at the pvc tanks.

[mechatron]

No not really necessary, you can get an electrolysis check if you want. As you found most times these rads fail due to flexing/cracking at the pvc tanks.

Thanks for the very quick reply Mick
And yep that’s exactly what happened (cracking on the passenger side PVC tank)

[Micks]

Yes both my last VY & VZ's all rads that failed were at point of attachment of tanks or tank cracks never a core blockage or failure.

Btw don't overlook the Chinese rads, bought a VZ 6L Man one from Regents Park in Syd off a fella brand new 2yr warranty $105 delivered to the door.

[mechatron]

Yes both my last VY & VZ's all rads that failed were at point of attachment of tanks or tank cracks never a core blockage or failure.

Btw don't overlook the Chinese rads, bought a VZ 6L Man one from Regents Park in Syd off a fella brand new 2yr warranty $105 delivered to the door.

I wonder why GM decided to use PVC tanks on their radiators? Was it to reduce weight or costs?

And great suggestion Mick, however I’ve just recently purchased a genuine GM radiator. Also white lie suggested that I replace the heater tap while changing out the radiator. Do you think I should stick with a genuine heater tap or are there some perfectly good aftermarket ones available (like Dayco & Gates)?

[Micks]

Replaced my tap on the VZ about a yr ago with the dayco one, no problems. If you do suggest changing out all four hoses at the same time. When you fit them do it all outside the vehicle so you only have to do the final connections to the firewall & the block, otherwise it can be very fiddly doing up hose clamps around the heater tap insitu. Don't forget to put the vac line back on the heater tap actuator too.

[mechatron]

Replaced my tap on the VZ about a yr ago with the dayco one, no problems. If you do suggest changing out all four hoses at the same time. When you fit them do it all outside the vehicle so you only have to do the final connections to the firewall & the block, otherwise it can be very fiddly doing up hose clamps around the heater tap insitu. Don't forget to put the vac line back on the heater tap actuator too.

Wow that’s really great advice mate, thanks heaps for all of your help