If your pump is pushing through the rated 1,200 litres per hour (that's 20 litres a minute)
you should be able to see cavitation of coolant in the reservoir.
I would try jumping direct power to the pump & see if you can see flow in the reservoir & hear the pump running.
As I said my pump looks exactly the same & I can hear it pumping as soon as it's switched on
& I can see the flow in the reservoir the same as in the video someone posted previously.
If your pump is pushing through the rated 1,200 litres per hour (that's 20 litres a minute)
you should be able to see cavitation of coolant in the reservoir.
Last edited by whitels1ss; 26-01-2020 at 04:28 PM.
Could you have a kinked over hose blocking or restricting the flow?
Rod reckon you are chasing possible loose wire, bad earth or faulty relay.
The current relay has no markings, I assume this would do the job? Current one is 5 pin but only 4 in use.
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...PO3954359.html
Here is a picture of the top of mine, it has an inbuilt 10 amp fuse
20200126_190719(0).jpg
I can't comment on mine except to say that the numbnut auto elec who did the original install cost me a lot of money when I had the Varimax pump installed by wiring it to what to me and the auto elec who eventually traced it was a stupid spot! The fuse for the ECU down in the footwell!!! The local guy who installed the new pump turned it over as shown in previous video of the pump working then switched off (I think). Next time he tried to start it, absolutely nothing. He spent hours trying to trace wiring (bodgy wiring at best as he soon discovered) and fuses etc before giving up. Had to get it trucked 24km to my auto elec to sort out. He wired it up properly!
Update. I have replaced relay with brand new item, checked all hoses for Kinks (Thanks Ed). Still exactly the same. If I take both hoses off front of blower and force air through the bottom hose I get a trickle through the top out of the blower. Other than that nothing that give me any confidence that the pump is actually pumping. It make no noise whatsoever
I know the pump is up to it as Ed is running the same one. Bit over this to be honest, these modded cars are great until they start not being great any more. On top of this the passenger side speakers decided to stop working, so something else to waste my time on. Not sure why two doors on one side would stop and everything else keeps working. Below is the wiring I am dealing with, not sure where to start with that, considering I have little to no experience with electrics.
That wiring looks very dodgy to me Rod.
I would disconnect the positive power wire from the coil pack & see if the pump fires if it is (jump) connected to the positive side of the fuse box.
The problem could also be one of those joints in that clump of red wiring. (Looks like there are a few wires spliced together along there.)
Be good if you could check the continuity of that red wire (obviously make sure that the red wire is the positive!)
or even unplug it from the relay & jump another fused power supply wire to the relay where it plugs on to the relay.
If something is faulty there the relay my not be getting switching power to fire it.
Last edited by whitels1ss; 27-01-2020 at 12:05 PM.
Yes agree with Ed, whoever done that wiring should give it away! Huge chance of a high resistance joint in any of that mess!
Went for a drive in a mate's WH II Caprice this afternoon,
it has a head & cammed stroker LS1, forged bottom end with a 2,900 Whipple.
It has insulators on it & a Snow water meth kit which is progressive & starts to spray at 5psi boost.
When he gave it a couple of small squirts on a very long steep hill, you could see the IAT's drop when the water meth started spraying.
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