So for the rear should I go with the adjustable 18 or the non-adjustable 20? What other bushes should I replace? I have done the link rods and radius rods previously, what else?
Go to whiteline website. From memory the front is about 300 for the adjustable one which i recommend . The rear about $250
The rear 20mm is not adjustable the 18mm is. As for labour there is a couple of hours in removing K Frame etc so id say on the $200 side.
Also i would not be happy without doing a realignment as you disconnect the link bars etc. depending on which rubbers you chose to replace. For
the cost of em i would do em all.
Also i stick with rubber for your lower if you want more K's the eurathane ones tend to chew out a bit quicker cause they don't have as much give.
Last edited by pugz; 08-05-2012 at 10:41 AM. Reason: Forgot something
So for the rear should I go with the adjustable 18 or the non-adjustable 20? What other bushes should I replace? I have done the link rods and radius rods previously, what else?
I did the castors and the strut top mounts as well up front. the only problem with the strut tops is you have to rip the spring apart which is not a
problem for me as i have airbags. If you are doing the sway your self while you have the sway disconnected try moving the strut, if there is significant movement at the top
you can pretty much say the strut top bearings are chewed out. Ajustable castors are good for setting up alignment depending how you are going to use the car too.
The rear i did the cradle mounts and diff insert at the same(sometimes would tramp abit). I would go the 18mm adjustable if ya just streetin it. I put a
20mm in ute but it is carrying loads and towing cars to events, work etc.
I put a 30mm swaybar in mine while the engine was out as well. I can't really compare because the last time I drove it with the stock swaybar was 10 months ago. It does feel tight on the twists but I dont push it to the limits to find it's true capabilities.
When I did mine I got recommended the larger heavy duty yellow bushes and brackets to suit as shown in the pic. Also beware that the new bar will probably hit the k frame on fast turns as it will sit very close to the edge compared to the factory bar.
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For those that have the front bar installed, any way to stop it hitting the k-frame? How common is this? I'm about to install one and i don't like the thought of it hitting the damn k-frame when i'm giving it hell!
Ive got mine installed in my VX SS, which sees a lot of track time and has a lot of modifications and as far as im aware its never touched the K-Frame. I dare say if its touching the K-frame then something is out of alignment (at least thats what ive found in a VX).
Mine doesn't hit at all and i give the thing absolute hell at the track as well. John i'd agree with fiestl maybe the K frame was not installed in correct
position or maybe bar not aligned. (not saying you have installed wrong) but i have installed a few of these with no clearance issues. I have had a small ficher in a K frame
causing alignment problems under load(which you can tell by rust on K frame bolts).
Not sure, I aligned the k-frame by marking it before I loosened the bolts and put it back in the same spot. My sway bar was second hand and I noticed rub marks in the exact spots where it gets close to the frame. The Vz bar is a different part number so not sure If its shaped different to earlier models. Doesn't phase me to much anyway, it's only done it twice in 1000 kays and the car drives straight.
Arent the bolts for the subframe self aligning ie. they have a taper under the head which guides the subframe as u tighten them? therefore where is the adjustment?
The VZ bar is a different part number because it has to also fit around the Alloytec V6 but for the V8 you could most possibly still fit the older part number.
I have the adjustable 30mm front in centre hole with fixed 18mm rear and balance is mostly neutral at low and high speeds which is very relaxing on long drives.
With front bar set on hardest setting (inner hole) the car over steered a little too much at higher speeds making cornering a little more intense than iy is now.
Hey Guys, The rear sway bar went in pretty easily without any hiccups but I have run into a problem installing the front sway bar. I cant get it to align properly. When I get it close to centralised the sway bar hits up against the Z bar on one side and it is extremely close to hitting on the other. Anyone have any ideas? It is a Monaro (VZ) so will it be different to standard? Please help me![]()
If it is hitting the radius rod while the suspension is hanging that is pretty normal once the suspension lifts up under weight it shouldn't be touching.
I found this out when I once went to change the position of the link in the bar with the car on stands and the wheels hanging everything was jammed up.
Drove the car up on ramps and changing link position was a piece of cake, one undone everything had plenty of movement.
Thanks for everyones views and help on this. I lowered the car back down and no clearance problems. Now just can't wait to finish building my stroker and get the car moving again
Just fitted the new hollow core fulcrum front and rear swaybars yesterday and it's transformed the ride quality 10 folds.30% lighter than other named models and a chrome moly structure,cost me $500 for the bars and $245 for fitting and wheel alignment.overall so far pretty impressed.
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