Bump.... Anyone?![]()
Hi guys, I hope to pull the trigger on a cam upgrade very soon (early in the new year); Current mods:
- LS1 with HTV1900 + PAC valve springs + fuel system upgrade
- A4 (built) with soon to be installed stally (will happen at the same time as the cam upgrade)
- Usual bolts on
- brakes and suspension upgrades
In the interest of "doing it once and doing it right" and also with the intention at some point of forging the bottom end (this will be a long term goal - some time in the next 12 - 18 months), I would love to hear folks thoughts on what supporting mods should take place.
I have already spoken to Chev and Shaun about the cam upgrade in the past, and both think that I will get away with just doing cam, push rods and stally. The ultimate intention would be to re use the cam and rods when the bottom end is forged, so with this in mind, what 'Should' I be doing to the top end?
Would love to hear peoples thoughts, as I do want to do this once and do it right (could even consider doing the heads, which would give me the option of doing lifters etc...)
Also, ball park some costs if possible......
Thanks in advance,
Franga
Bump.... Anyone?![]()
Oil pump is the only other thing I'd recommend, maybe double row timing chain while you are in there. I wish I'd done the oil pump when I did my cam/chain etc.
Sweet as, thanks for the reply, was thinking along those lines also. Was also very curious about the lifters/entire valve train etc, as I have read a few threads with horror stories about failed bits causing serious damage...... will ultimately take Chevs advice but was hoping to get an idea of what else to do for the top end and ball park some costs (maybe I should just pick up the phone, but I hate playing 'what if' with him, as I always feel like a dick...... *sheepish grin*)
Cheers,
If you want to play safe with lifters then Morel tie-bar lifters seem to be the way to go, though I'd be surprised if Chev/Shaun haven't mentioned those to you already. Nothing is 100% guaranteed of course but they give much more safety.
You might also if you haven't already get yourself a full exhaust system,some 4 into 1 1 & 7/8th headers,100 cell hi flow cats and a twiin 3 inch exhaust.
G'day Wonky, yep, had a chat to Shaun about these last visit, but I am trying to get an idea of what is involved to do them, as the heads need to come off to do these, so was also trying to determine if I went down this path, what else I should be considering at the same time (.... need to justify the do it once and do it right thing to myself....) - if they are off for this type of work and the cost would be considerable to do so, then may as well consider doing 'all' the bits that I would end up doing anyway for future proof.... (head work/replace heads with LQ9 heads to drop compression?, retainers etc etc) - I know this will be big bucks but trying to get a ball park/scope as a result so that I can discuss with Chev (without feeling like a nuff nuff - I know I am, and he probably does too, but I gota try.... *wink*)
cheers mate,
Yeah, heads have to come off for lifters so get ARP head bolts and Cometic head gaskets - bit more up front cost but means heads can come off again without needing more head bolts or gaskets. The guy Chev uses for head work is very well known and regarded in the industry so will point you in the right direction.
You've already done your valve springs, so no need to do anything else to the engine. I'd only do the pushrods and lifters if you are taking the heads off.
Tryhard makes a good point about the exhaust though, those Try Y's will be way too small for the blower and cam. Best to go the 1 7/8 4-1s now; I gained about 60 RWHP just by upgrading from the pacies to DF 1-7/8 4-1's.
What are the specs on the cam? And are the valve springs suitable for that cam?
Yep, this was AFTER I fitted a blower, I should have been more specific. Got the dyno sheets and timeslips to prove it too.
The point I was trying to make was that the 1-5/8" pacey try-y's are way too small for a blown application.
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