Drive shafts - OEM or After market

[FrangaFry]

Hi folks, looking for some feedback on replacing my drive shafts.

Have had some nasty backlash/drive line clunking over the last few months and have been looking around for some advice on what is causing the noise.

I have been to 3 different places recently looking for advice.

First, I made a visit to a well know shop in knox, car was put up on a hoist and it was pointed out to me that my drive shafts (CV's) were 'well worn' (especially the left drive shaft) and that new shafts would be required to address the lash. A quote was provided for G-Force 1320 LV1 + inner stubs (as I am to believe that stubs are also required due to the non OEM nature of the shafts). Approx cost $1200 for the shafts and $850 for the stubs (labour on top).

Second, I did what I should have done in the first place and took it to Chev's. Chev gave me the impression that the 'lash' I was having was pretty standard for a VYSSII and made some changes to the way the A4 changed gears in econ mode and it settled it down a heap; Although the clunk is still there (but not as severe with the gear changes being softened in econ mode) and is still pretty pronounced when in power mode (clunk mostly coming down the gear changes rather than moving up). I have been driving around now for a couple of weeks like this and it is much better thanks to Chev but I still have concerns about the 'clunk'.

As a result of the above (and with Chev shutting down for a couple of weeks), I spoke to Ben from Trans Diff today and took my wagon down to him for a second opinion; Ben was adamant over the phone that he would be able to diagnose the issue straight away with a quick spin and look under the hoist. Ben immediately pointed out the shafts as the issue (and the after market nolathane bushes I have installed in the diff cradle and sub frame mounts); Comment from Ben was, "noise is 80% your shafts and 20% the bushes" (amplifying the sound through the car). I then spoke with Ben on 'what' parts to use (OEM or after market) and he was adamant that OEM are the way to go and if installed would sort out all the noises I was having.

The approx cost to replace with new OEM shafts was approx $1200 inc labour (Holden spares sell these retail for about $560 per shaft) and once again he was adamant that going down the Harrop after market path was going to cost more but provide the same results.

So, what are folks thoughts on OEM and after market shafts etc. I have read a number of threads where folks indicate going new OEM was a waste of money and seconds should be sourced (from a wreckers?) - Who has done this and what were your experiences? How and where did your source some seconds (in good nick) - is it worth it?

Also, just related to this, I also spoke with Ben on rebuilding the diff (with a Trutrac) and although the diff seems fine at this point, he did make a couple of comments:

1. If I rebuilt the diff and did not replace the shafts at the same time, then he would not provide warranty.

2. If I did not replace the shafts and left it as is, I would be doing damage to my diff in the long run.

Lastly, if and when I replace the shafts, I will also be removing the nolathane bushes and going back to OEM rubber, what are the down sides in doing this (will I notice a serious handling decrease - car is standard FE2 with Konis and sway bars all round, so it does handle well at the moment for a wagon).

Thanks and apologies to keep bombarding you folks with silly questions,

Cheers,

[feistl]

Step 1. Get a pair of second hand v6 ones from a wrecker for $100, fit yourself (easiest job in the world).

If it fixes your problem run with the second hand units, if they fail again over time then look at upgrading them. Buy the gforce1320 ones direct from the USA as its half the price.

Remember, if you upgrade the driveshafts your moving the weakest link to the tailshaft, which makes a mess when it lets go.

Dont buy genuine new, massive rip off.

[feistl]

Further to my post...

Driveshafts are about $900 landed, axle stubs are $800 landed.

Changing the driveshafts is 16 hex bolts, 10 minute job. Changing the inner stubs is probably 15 minutes work, little more involved but still very simple.

I would use the money you "save" to get a harrop sports diff cover.

[FrangaFry]

Thanks Feistl, what are your thoughts on re manufactured shafts? Such as:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Holden-Co...item4d01f19fa3

Is it worth going down this path, or should I just head down to the local wreckers and see what is on offer? What is a good indication that the shafts are still in good nick.

Cheers,

[feistl]

Thanks Feistl, what are your thoughts on re manufactured shafts? Such as:


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Holden-Co...item4d01f19fa3

Is it worth going down this path, or should I just head down to the local wreckers and see what is on offer? What is a good indication that the shafts are still in good nick.

Cheers,

a
Not sure on the re-manufactured ones... Are you drag racing? Unless your drag racing with slicks then the stock units are fine (even for hard use). Ive been using stock ones on a track car that was driven hard enough to boil mainlube diff and gearbox oil (EG F*CKING HARD) and the stock ones were ok.

Just twist the ends in opposite directions, if there is any "rotation" or movement, their stuffed.

[zorro]

Just keep buying them from the wreckers, take you about 30mins a side to do if you are on your back in the driveway.

I used to get them $50 a pair in Qld

[jca]

What sort of power r u pushing

[FrangaFry]

What sort of power r u pushing

310rwkw and 690nm (A4), will soon be pulling the trigger on at least a cam/high stall upgrade (to suite HTV1900) - but also have plans for a stroker at some point (depending on funds and comments from the minister of war and finance, this may be this year or next...). Just trying to work out if all my supporting bits and pieces will hold up (tranny, diff, axles, drive shaft, brakes etc)

Currently mods so far are: (VYII SS Wagon)

LS1 + HTV1900 + PAC springs + 60lb injectors/rails + in tank Walbro
Pacemaker Tri-Y headers (Stainless) + 2.5" full zorst (Stainless)
Rebuilt Diff + 3.45 gears
Built 4l60e + Cooler
HSV/PBR 330/315 brakes + Koni Adjustables + Whiteline Swaybars + Michelin PS3's (17")

I'm flip flopping all over the place at the moment, trying to work out where my hard earned will be put to best use.......... (already ruled out another brake upgrade, other than maybe stainless lines, as I don't track it) but everything else is still an option; I really need to become a car club member or something, as I have NO mates who are into car mods (or V8's for that matter), so I struggle to get allot of feedback from those who have been there and done that (hence all the silly NOOB questions I keep posting here....)

[SirNemesis]

All depends on how you drive. I've been making significantly more power and torque than that without issue on standard shafts. I also plan to continue using them, as they will basically be my driveline 'fuse'. Much better than a broken tailshaft, diff, output shaft, input shaft, etc.

[FrangaFry]

Well, given these comments (and those from Chev previously ..............), looks like after market axles/stubs are no longer on my bucket list (I do like the 'fuse' idea................), now all I need to do is get me some seconds and see what the results are ......... any recommendations for wreckers in the SE of Melb for some decent shafts (I assume any late model commy Vx-Vy V6 will do?); Do stubs also need to be replaced at the same time, or just the shafts (see, more silly questions.....?)

Cheers,

[JezzaB]

VZ HSV are actually better, they have more splines and thicker. Plus if you wanted to buy the Gforce Porsche CV upgrade kit later on it will work with these shafts.

[aratic]

Well, given these comments (and those from Chev previously ..............), looks like after market axles/stubs are no longer on my bucket list (I do like the 'fuse' idea................), now all I need to do is get me some seconds and see what the results are ......... any recommendations for wreckers in the SE of Melb for some decent shafts (I assume any late model commy Vx-Vy V6 will do?); Do stubs also need to be replaced at the same time, or just the shafts (see, more silly questions.....?)

Cheers,

You could get your current ones rebuilt. Will be more expensive than a 2nd hand set, but they will then be 'as new'

[FrangaFry]

You could get your current ones rebuilt. Will be more expensive than a 2nd hand set, but they will then be 'as new'

G'day, would this be the same as getting hold of a reconditioned set?

Cheers

[Woodchukka]

G'day, would this be the same as getting hold of a reconditioned set?

Cheers

Depends who has reconditioned them.

[duke5700]

Don't bother, get them from the wreckers out of a 6 cyl.

You either stick with the $50 2nd handies or you buy good ones.

You don't need to do inner stubs either if you just want to upgrade the shafts.

Like Jezz has said, VZ are stronger.

Thanks Feistl, what are your thoughts on re manufactured shafts? Such as:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Holden-Co...item4d01f19fa3

Is it worth going down this path, or should I just head down to the local wreckers and see what is on offer? What is a good indication that the shafts are still in good nick.

Cheers,