Traction Control Stopped Working

[VYSS381]

Every time i have seen this happen the same way you have described it in a VT/WH it has been a wheel speed sensor but best idea is check it for codes mate.

[RARASV8]

Thanks for the posts guys, and thank you Vassis for taking the pic for me - I tired plugging/unplugging that lead a few times and no difference, I also don't have the stock air box so the lead was easy to get to.

I actually have a USB scan tool myself, but with the free software I have I'm not able to get any more information than I can get from diagnostic mode and reading the three panel instrument cluster. I don't suppose anyone can recommend a source for free software that may be of help to me?

I've just tried looking for a tract ctrl fuse but couldn't find one, either in the cabin or under the bonnett. Anyone know if there is one I could check? Also, if anyone could steer me towards the traction control module so I can try fiddling with the plugs one that I'd really appreciate it.

I'll email the chap that did the performance tune on my car (enhanced automotive), I think they're a forum sponsor actually, and I'll find out how much he'll charge me to scan it. If I'm lucky he might be able to increase the cold-idle base speed for me too, the beast is getting a bit hard to start on cold mornings and often takes two turns of the key.

Thanks heaps!

maybe the battery is on it's way out. this has coursed similar things before.

[Dillzio]

maybe the battery is on it's way out. this has coursed similar things before.

Nah had the alternator and battery changed not long ago.

I was having the problem whenever I did a cold engine start, not just when the weather was cold, and my mechanic found a blocked fuel filter. 2 months later the problem returned, and the mechanic found the membrane of the fuel filter he put in (brand was silverline or something like that) had gone kind of gooey and was restricting fuel flow, I've since replaced it with a Ryco filter and it seems much better now, still has the issue of conking out on cold mornings though, requiring a second turn of the key.

Thanks for the tips guys, looks like I'll have to get the thing scanned after all - no quick and easy fixes here. Probably a speed sensor like people have suggested

[itsme4g63]

you post this, like its such a bad thing.

Wish mine stopped working so I didn't have to remember to turn it off everytime I start the damned car.

[Dillzio]

you post this, like its such a bad thing.

Wish mine stopped working so I didn't have to remember to turn it off everytime I start the damned car.

Haha, you legend! Yeah I never thought of things that way I guess I'm going soft in my old age (I'm 31 now), I'm not the rev head I once was - plus the traction control makes my tyres last longer

I took the car to Brad from Enhanced Automotive today to have the codes read, and have the difficult cold starts investigated. Unfortunately it wasn't good news.

The computer threw several fault codes, several of which could be causing the traction control light to come on. It came up with errors for the throttle position sensor, throttle releaser PWM, the vehicle speed sensor is giving unstable readings, and there was a communication problem between the instrument cluster computer and the ABS/ETC computer. Doesn't look like this problem is going to go away unless I start throwing large amounts of money at it. Brad's cleared the codes, and he suggests I come back in a couple of weeks to see which codes come back and to get the TPS replaced (he cleared that code and it came back straight away).

Regarding the difficult cold starts, he checked out the (I'm trying to remember here) throttle body and idle air controller but they all seemed to be working pretty well. He says it's probably being caused by one of the other faults, or it could be the fuel pump not starting up properly - apparently I can test if it's the fuel pump by jabbing the accelerator next time it's about to stall and seeing if the engine responds or not.

Such a pain, the car's 13 years old now and everything's starting to go wrong, it's become a money pit. I've recently done the air con compressor, alternator, water pump, god knows what else is just around the corner. I'm just wondering if I should continue to fix things as they go wrong, or get something newer - always a difficult choice when you've modified/customized a car and gotten attached to it... and if I get a new commy i'll probably want to get a chip and performance exhaust on that too, that's more money.

Any pearls of wisdom out there regarding fixing an older car as things go wrong vs buying (and probably modifying) a newer one?

[IJ.]

LMAO! 31 being old, I'm wearing a pair of boots right now older than you

[jc_sv8]

Mine's 10 years and the same kind of things are starting to happen. TPS, leaking water, steering pump replaced, O2's the list is getting longer...
Nothing major to date, but it's only a matter of time, shame really it's only got 113Ks on it.
Unfortunately as much as I love it, it will be traded this year on a VF.

[markone2]

Hi gang,

Whenever I start my car now the light comes on to say traction control is off.

Pushing the traction control button doesn't seem to do anything.

Has anyone experienced this before, or know what the solution is?

The car is a 1999 WH Statesman with Gen3

thanks heaps!

Personally .....with the anti friendly TC on the old Statesman WH ,I’d be offering my heartfelt prayers of thanks to whatever devil got into your electronics ...shocking old system imho


.

[vassis]

I had stalling issues with my vx
Some movement in the IAC motor caused it to home incorrectly and find a new spot every key turn
The IAC goes to its full boundries to find its spot every key on and off and with the movement it had from the body of the motor to the flange plate that bolts onto the TB it was hitting different spots every time
Changed that 225 bucks later ive now made my car start up on freezing mornings and idle at 800RPM all the way to full operating temperature,rolling idle about 900-950 and it never stalls. Im using a stock L98 engine with a 232 234 112 comp cam and PSI springs.

Theres 2 things i would do for the difficult starts in the mornings,

1 id turn the key on (dont start) unscrew the cap on the fuel rail and see if its pressurized (with a hand towel it comes out fast if its workign properly) or put a fuel pressure guage on it and make sure its at 58psi to rule out fuel pump

2 get someone else to turn the key on and off and hold ur hand on the IAC motor and feel and listen to hear if it was working

But having fuel issues in the past id look at cleaning ur fuel system aswell... You can do it yourself. I unbolted my fuel tank lowered it down undid the special fuel line removal tool required clips ($17 set from superdear) that hold ur fuel lines on pulled the pump assembly out, hosed out the tank to the point it was overflowing with water, let it dry for hours i think i put some sort of alchahol in there to dissolve any left over water, threw a walbro pump in there while it was out, changed fuel filter, manually cleaned out my injectors because they dont have the bucket filters like yours, used compressed air to blow out fuel rail aswell as the fuel lines through the car.

As for the question your asking about buying a new one or fixing the old one,a new fuel pump assembly from holden was $400+ but a new walbro was 235 fit it to my old assembly which still works = UPGRADE
Why clean injectors for 250 dollars when you can use the money saved from buying the stock fuel pump to buy bigger injectors or even good second hand ones off forums (everyones always upgrading for FI etc) for the same price.
I was at the same point when a few things started to break on my car but i just started to upgrade the parts that went and now its a great reliable car that goes well full of aftermarket parts. Now my car has 400 odd Flywheel KW that weighs 200-300kg less than a VE. Tuning required after injector change but id do the fuel system first see if it improves then go from there you might not even have to touch injectors. 1 injector cost me a motor though it got stuck open nek minute E~C <--- piston cracked in half and bent the conrod

Edit; Another quick test / maintanance you can do, Unbolt the injector fuel rail with the injectors still connected. Make sure the clips are holding all the injectors on pressurize it while its sitting above the manifold then key on ( do not start it ), While your there check to see if any injectors are actually leaking and also clean up the manifold holes and regrease the injector orings. try not let shit get in if its really dirty try clean the top of the orings up with something first before you lift it. As a precaution depressurize it first by pulling fuel relay out starting the engine till it dies then manualy releasing the last bit of pressure before commencing.

[Dillzio]

I had stalling issues with my vx
Some movement in the IAC motor caused it to home incorrectly and find a new spot every key turn
The IAC goes to its full boundries to find its spot every key on and off and with the movement it had from the body of the motor to the flange plate that bolts onto the TB it was hitting different spots every time
Changed that 225 bucks later ive now made my car start up on freezing mornings and idle at 800RPM all the way to full operating temperature,rolling idle about 900-950 and it never stalls. Im using a stock L98 engine with a 232 234 112 comp cam and PSI springs.

Theres 2 things i would do for the difficult starts in the mornings,

1 id turn the key on (dont start) unscrew the cap on the fuel rail and see if its pressurized (with a hand towel it comes out fast if its workign properly) or put a fuel pressure guage on it and make sure its at 58psi to rule out fuel pump

2 get someone else to turn the key on and off and hold ur hand on the IAC motor and feel and listen to hear if it was working

But having fuel issues in the past id look at cleaning ur fuel system aswell... You can do it yourself. I unbolted my fuel tank lowered it down undid the special fuel line removal tool required clips ($17 set from superdear) that hold ur fuel lines on pulled the pump assembly out, hosed out the tank to the point it was overflowing with water, let it dry for hours i think i put some sort of alchahol in there to dissolve any left over water, threw a walbro pump in there while it was out, changed fuel filter, manually cleaned out my injectors because they dont have the bucket filters like yours, used compressed air to blow out fuel rail aswell as the fuel lines through the car.

As for the question your asking about buying a new one or fixing the old one,a new fuel pump assembly from holden was $400+ but a new walbro was 235 fit it to my old assembly which still works = UPGRADE
Why clean injectors for 250 dollars when you can use the money saved from buying the stock fuel pump to buy bigger injectors or even good second hand ones off forums (everyones always upgrading for FI etc) for the same price.
I was at the same point when a few things started to break on my car but i just started to upgrade the parts that went and now its a great reliable car that goes well full of aftermarket parts. Now my car has 400 odd Flywheel KW that weighs 200-300kg less than a VE. Tuning required after injector change but id do the fuel system first see if it improves then go from there you might not even have to touch injectors. 1 injector cost me a motor though it got stuck open nek minute E~C <--- piston cracked in half and bent the conrod

Edit; Another quick test / maintanance you can do, Unbolt the injector fuel rail with the injectors still connected. Make sure the clips are holding all the injectors on pressurize it while its sitting above the manifold then key on ( do not start it ), While your there check to see if any injectors are actually leaking and also clean up the manifold holes and regrease the injector orings. try not let shit get in if its really dirty try clean the top of the orings up with something first before you lift it. As a precaution depressurize it first by pulling fuel relay out starting the engine till it dies then manualy releasing the last bit of pressure before commencing.

Thanks for the tips mate, the upgraded fuel pump sounds like a fantastic idea, why replace the buggered one with overpriced stock parts when I can do an upgrade and save a bit of cash? Where did you get the pump from, and what type/model did you use?

cheers!

[Dillzio]

Oh, and to update regarding the cold start problem, every time i do a cold start and it's about to conk out, I pump the accelerator and get no response at all, yet second turn of the key and it fires up beautifully. It seems the fuel pump doesn't work the first time it's told to do so, but it fires up thereafter.

[tufss]

See if code comes up for TC Sensor at diff.

[vassis]

I used a walbro intank pump from autobarn
Also can be your key isn't touching the ring around your key hole might be imobiliser kicking in... Make sure you push the key in hard and see if its that... Some fire and stall right after if the correct resistance is not felt by the bcm