VE SS Getting Hot

[HOLDAN]

I'd imagine a Holden supplied Fan would have the correct connector on it and just plug in... if not it's an easy fix

Yes I agree. Hopefully though they have wired it the wrong way and that will solve my problem

[XUV]

Have you tried a different coolant? ie non water based/waterless type coolant .

[IJ.]

Have you tried a different coolant? ie non water based/waterless type coolant .

From my research they typically run hotter....

[XUV]

From my research they typically run hotter....

Then what's the go/use of them ??

[IJ.]

Then what's the go/use of them ??

Reduced pressure in the system and they're pimped as lifetime coolant no need to ever change it...

[Micks]

I always dismiss the suggestion or use of a cooler thermostat cause @ the end of the day only cooling capacity you have is in your Rad! If your std thermostat is serviceable & the motor is hot the stat is gunna be fully open! Otherwise do away with it & will be a pig till it's warm.
Need more cooling capacity a greater capacity Rad is required larger tanks & more fins/inch etc!
In the three LS engines Ive had so far had no reason to touch/upgrade the stats or Rads they work really well & have noticed the 6L E38 controlled ones cycle fans even better than the previous ECU!!

[HOLDAN]

I always dismiss the suggestion or use of a cooler thermostat cause @ the end of the day only cooling capacity you have is in your Rad! If your std thermostat is serviceable & the motor is hot the stat is gunna be fully open! Otherwise do away with it & will be a pig till it's warm.
Need more cooling capacity a greater capacity Rad is required larger tanks & more fins/inch etc!

In the three LS engines Ive had so far had no reason to touch/upgrade the stats or Rads they work really well & have noticed the 6L E38 controlled ones cycle fans even better than the previous ECU!!

I agree. I have had absolutely no problems at all in the 7 years I've had the car. Towed my ski boat all over the country, taken it (car not boat) to the strip a few times - no dramas. Now, it runs at the right temp on the open road, and gets hot when the fans are in play. So I'm guessing there is still a fan issue.

[HOLDAN]

I returned home this arvo. Tested the thermo fans and all is good with them. However, I noticed some coolant leaking from under the radiator cap.

Now I had the radiator relplaced by Holden a couple of weeks ago. After I got it back, I was checking the coolant level. I noticed the radiator cap was extremely hard to get off. and I'm no weakling. It was never that hard before. Thought it was because it was all new and tight. I also thought maybe it was cross threaded. Anyways, I have had the cap on and off a few times and it is still very tight. So I haven't been tightening it all the way down (thinking of the cross threading issue). However, with a shite load of grunting, I screwed it down so there was no leakage, Took it for a spin - seemed ok. Could a loose cap be causing my overheating issue? SHould the cap be that friggin hard to screw down?

[Evman]

Absolutely shouldn't be that hard. There will definitely be some resistance but anyone should be able to get the cap off with relative ease, even a kid. If the spring pressure on the relief (under the cap) is shot then you'll boil the water sooner and wont have the same heat transfer capabilities which could lead to overheating. The steam would go into the overflow tank so unless there's a fair amount you might not even notice it.

[Micks]

I returned home this arvo. Tested the thermo fans and all is good with them. However, I noticed some coolant leaking from under the radiator cap.

Now I had the radiator relplaced by Holden a couple of weeks ago. After I got it back, I was checking the coolant level. I noticed the radiator cap was extremely hard to get off. and I'm no weakling. It was never that hard before. Thought it was because it was all new and tight. I also thought maybe it was cross threaded. Anyways, I have had the cap on and off a few times and it is still very tight. So I haven't been tightening it all the way down (thinking of the cross threading issue). However, with a shite load of grunting, I screwed it down so there was no leakage, Took it for a spin - seemed ok. Could a loose cap be causing my overheating issue? SHould the cap be that friggin hard to screw down?

No a loose cap will lower the system pressure & lower the temp slightly! Depends how bad it's leaking.

[HOLDAN]

Mmmmm - no I'm confused............

[Peter B - CV8]

No a loose cap will lower the system pressure & lower the temp slightly! Depends how bad it's leaking.

Are you sure mate ??? I would have thought a lower system pressure would = a lower boiling point & therefore make the engine prone to overheating.

[Micks]

That's right Pete, until the coolant boils off & depletes the system of capacity. The OP is talking about a slight leak at the Rad cap!
What I'll do both my 6L's have Rad caps will leave the cap half a turn proud & run it up till hot & record the temp.

[HOLDAN]

Ran the car in the middle of the day today and in stop start traffic - temp ranged between 92 and 96. All good it seems.

[Micks]

That's right Pete, until the coolant boils off & depletes the system of capacity. The OP is talking about a slight leak at the Rad cap!
What I'll do both my 6L's have Rad caps will leave the cap half a turn proud & run it up till hot & record the temp.

Ok ran my Z till warm & recorded 96.4 @ ambient of 25.5, cracked the cap @ idle took it for a 15min stop/start run & recorded 99.7 with a little coolant streaming out of the cap. So about 3 degrees increase with press relieved.