VE battery replacement

[XUV]

I don't think so.

I mean, would you buy the Varta E39 based on it's spec? If not, why not??

no I'd buy a Red Top optima , so when i open my bonnet people go " oooer a Red Topped Optima" , but you can't do that in a VE

I really don't understand what you're after,

if you want the same OEM specs, buy the 150 buck battery, if you're after more punch , buy the 250 buck battery.

Thanks for the reply.

The only nagging issue I have is regards to people mentioning the "VE has a variable voltage alternator" which I hear can 'over voltage' and damage a regular battery. I wish I knew more about that point....

this has the bit you're concerned about.
http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthre...charging/page2

[duke5700]

Why would they ever put a battery that requires maintenance in a prick of a spot like that.. no one is ever going to look at it.

That looks like it has boiled up a bit in a few of the cells.. Personally, considering what is coming out of those batteries having in a place like that wouldn't be on my list of OK things. Why the battery shop thought it was OK I don't know, probably repeat business when it dies.

I've always used Optima Redtops.. I don't do stereo etc and the last for ever and cover my needs a starting battery and I never have to look at them.

Looking on the Varta Website the E44 you have listed there as long as it is a sealed unit would be acceptable to use.

As for CCA, really unless it is a 15:1 Methanol swilling Big block.. massive CCA isn't going to do a lot. As long as it meets or slightly exceeds the factory it will be fine. Yes I know it relates to internal resistances of the battery etc etc, for 99% of users it aint going to matter. Maybe if you have moved the battery further away and increase the total resistance path sure, get a battery with a larger CCA.

[Drizt]

I really don't understand what you're after,

Basically want the best battery I can get that will charge correctly (to 100%), is fully sealed, last a very long time and most importantly will NOT go flat if you use the electronics while the car is not running. I've been stranded a few times now because the car can't support electronics being used while the car is switched off. The latest such incident occurred on a 44 degree day... was not impressed.

[Drizt]

no I'd buy a Red Top optima

Which one? There seems to be a few different models.

Edit: Oh, any reason why you wouldn't go the R34 Yellow top? Being a mixed deep cycle and starting battery would seem to be the ideal combo.

[duke5700]

Redtops supposedly don't like being drained.. I've used mine like that with no problems. They call is a starting battery.. high CCA and pretty rugged. I've left mine over 12 months in the car without starting and it will start the car kind of deal..

Yellow is designed as a pretty general duty style battery, great for what you want and good as a starting battery also handles being cycled pretty well.

The Bluetop is basically a deep cycle style battery used in motor homes, boats etc.

I noticed they also have cross over part numbers that fit inbetween the Red/Yellow/Blue designation. So a bluetop that starts pretty well, a redtop that handles drain etc you might need to contact Optima to find the ideal one.. but a run of the mill YellowTop would be more than adequate.

[XUV]

Which one? There seems to be a few different models.

Edit: Oh, any reason why you wouldn't go the R34 Yellow top? Being a mixed deep cycle and starting battery would seem to be the ideal combo.

Yes, go the yellow top, it will meet your needs, but get the d35

[XUV]

went to to satisfy a query and found an answer i'd been pondering..... How many cranking amps does an LS motor require ?

[XUV]

you might need to contact Optima to find the ideal one..

What did optima do to deserve that

[Micks]

Why would they ever put a battery that requires maintenance in a prick of a spot like that.. no one is ever going to look at it.

That looks like it has boiled up a bit in a few of the cells.. Personally, considering what is coming out of those batteries having in a place like that wouldn't be on my list of OK things. Why the battery shop thought it was OK I don't know, probably repeat business when it dies.

I've always used Optima Redtops.. I don't do stereo etc and the last for ever and cover my needs a starting battery and I never have to look at them.

Looking on the Varta Website the E44 you have listed there as long as it is a sealed unit would be acceptable to use.

As for CCA, really unless it is a 15:1 Methanol swilling Big block.. massive CCA isn't going to do a lot. As long as it meets or slightly exceeds the factory it will be fine. Yes I know it relates to internal resistances of the battery etc etc, for 99% of users it aint going to matter. Maybe if you have moved the battery further away and increase the total resistance path sure, get a battery with a larger CCA.

Have a feeling that Drizt has the incorrect Batt fitted to the VE! The proper ones are fully sealed, non serviceable & explosion proof!! Thus why the type is fitted in the cabin!

[Drizt]

Have a feeling that Drizt has the incorrect Batt fitted to the VE! The proper ones are fully sealed, non serviceable & explosion proof!! Thus why the type is fitted in the cabin!

Others (on mea - car forum and here) seem to have the same battery as I do. I 'think' it is the stock unit that came with the car.

[IJ.]

Redtops supposedly don't like being drained.. I've used mine like that with no problems. They call is a starting battery.. high CCA and pretty rugged. I've left mine over 12 months in the car without starting and it will start the car kind of deal..

Yellow is designed as a pretty general duty style battery, great for what you want and good as a starting battery also handles being cycled pretty well.

The Bluetop is basically a deep cycle style battery used in motor homes, boats etc.

I noticed they also have cross over part numbers that fit inbetween the Red/Yellow/Blue designation. So a bluetop that starts pretty well, a redtop that handles drain etc you might need to contact Optima to find the ideal one.. but a run of the mill YellowTop would be more than adequate.

I have a Yellow D34 that's been in a couple of cars over the last 9>10 years, only recently retired it to the Tractor and it's never failed to start it, I replaced it with a Blue top in the Tonner as it can sit for long periods and it's a bit of a Harsh environment for it and can see pretty high inrush if everything "starts" at once (5 fans 3 Fuel Pumps, 1 electric waterpump + the normal VZ Loads) , likewise never failed to start it!

[Drizt]

Can you guys post some pic's of how you have installed your Optima yellow D34's ?

[duke5700]

Someone could try one of these..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAXWELL-ULTR...item338652432d

[Drizt]

Optima D34 fits.

Surprisingly hardly anyone posts any pics of their installs .....

Stone on MEA posted these

OptimaYellowD34.jpg
OptimaYellowD34_2.jpg

As the D34 fits, I'd rather get that than the D35.

I don't think the D34 has any vent holes? Is that correct? Is that ok?

Any last suggestions cautions????? I'll be buying something tomorrow morning.. might just end up being a coin toss.

The Varta e44 would fit straight in. Could go that over the Optima D34 ???

[Drizt]

Also.. the black box just above the negative terminal.... I assume you just unplug that and pull it out so you can get the battery in and out? Do you unhook the battery first before unplugging everything? Or unplug everything first? Sorry, might be dumb questions, but better off being sure.

Edit: Is the wood a good idea? Anyone have a better alternative / suggestion as a chock ?