Monster stage 2, been a great clutch. Had it in about 2 years, only a little bit stiffer than stock and no shudder etc... Been giving it a good hammering at the drags this year with no slip.
What are people using these days for a cammed LS1?
I have used the search button but there doesnt seem to be alot of recent threads plus I havent been on the forum for about two years.
Current clutch is an X Grip that is rooted. Ive been looking at the NPC Copper Mix, Exedy Sports Tuff Cushioned Button, Mcleod RST etc
Monster stage 2, been a great clutch. Had it in about 2 years, only a little bit stiffer than stock and no shudder etc... Been giving it a good hammering at the drags this year with no slip.
OEM, on a cammed car its fine. I think the LS7 clutch is the standard for the LS1 now anyway, if not then I would upgrade to that as a Maximum. A cammed LS1 isn't putting enough torque through the drive train to bother the factory option.
I'm not a hoon, I'm just competitive
Standard now is not standard 10 years ago when LS1s were being installed. A "standard" clutch is now an LS7 clutch (all clutches supersede to them - just like all lifters now supersede to LS7 lifters). This clutch is being used in current SS's as well and they handle tuned/bolt-on 6L's fine (which coincidentally put out about as much power as a mid-cammed LS1).
Ok i must baby my clutch then. As i made mentioned above the replacment is a ls7 clutch.
oh by the way my ls1 clutch has lasted over 100000km of which it spent its life at the drags, giving it a hard time side stepping the clutch driftjng the car, oh and riding the fcuk out of it pulling my 20ft fibreglass cabin cruiser out of the ocean. Oem did ok for me
I'm not a hoon, I'm just competitive
I've run an NPC copper mix for 3.5 years on a Turbo LS1.
Very smooth.
Only street driven, not at the drags.
By the time you get the clutch, flywheel, alignment tool and delivery you'll be at $1450 at least.
Rebuilding might be good if dollars are tight.
I installed a Mcleod RST twin disc clutch, and Mcleod flywheel behind my L76 6.0l VZ about 8 months ago. Clutch pedal is as light or lighter than stock, and really smooth. Works perfect with the factory slave. Compared to my
stock clutch which was slipping really bad at 80000km, so far hasn't missed a beat, even after installing a Tru Trac shortly after.
I bought them new from the US, straight off ebay America, shipping was really cheap only like $60 each, new clutch (6912-07) was $720 US, and I found a brand new Mcleod flywheel (460530) for $150 US, normally $300 + US
and shipping was again only $60. They took over 3 weeks to turn up, I bought the clutch and the flywheel from two different places, and they both turn up on my door step, on the same day.
All the other twin dics clutches I was looking at in Aus where $2000 +, not going happen...
The RST clutch is rated to 800hp, and the RXT is rated to 1000hp, only difference being the different discs, the rest of the clutch is exactly the same.
Here's a good overview of the RST and RXT direct from McLeod.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWX6zKIGLaI
3 Aus dealers listed on Mcleod web site, see below.
ROCKET INDUSTRIES
40 HUNTINGTON DRIVE
NSW
HUNTINGWODD, 2148 AU
Telephone: 02 88251900
DELLOW CONVERSIONS
37 DAISY STREET
NSW
REVESBY, 2212 AU
Telephone: 02 97743873
LES HEINTZ ET RACING CLUTCHES
38 HOSKEN ST
SOUTH VICTORIA
SPRINGVALE, 3172 AU
Telephone: 0424309408
You can get them faster than 3 weeks, just have to pay more on shipping. I went the cheapest shipping option at the time.
While the gearbox was out, I replaced the engine rear main seal, pilot bearing, the gearbox extension housing seal, installed new OEM flywheel bolts, new OEM slave and aftermarket braided clutch line and remote bleeder line. Also installed a rip shifter, and replaced the trans tunnel OEM rubber boot which was torn. Do it all at once....
BTW the T56 is a heavy sucker, I weighed mine once it was on my work bench, 66 kg with no oil...
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