Try unclipping and reclipping the ABS Connector a few times Allan.
This morning my one tonner started playing up, it started fine and drove into town and when starting it again the starter motor was clicking and sounded like it was not engaging properly but started and then the fuel and temp gauge stopped working and also the ac, the power shift and gear indicator. I have checked all fuses and relays the battery is reading 12.9 volts. and no faults or codes showing up on the scan tool. The car is a VZ V8 one tonner 2005 auto. The car has never had a problem in its 10 year history. It has the usual mods exhaust, intake and tune.
Has anyone else came across these problems, it just started doing this this morning out of the blue.
cheers Allan
Try unclipping and reclipping the ABS Connector a few times Allan.
Thanks IJ I will try that, I have also disconnected the battery terminal and left it for 1/2hr and about to reconnect and try it.
No probs Al, seen all those errors a couple of times I've forgot to plug mine back in...![]()
I have tried the battery disconnect and ABS connector and still have the same issues. The fuel and temp gauges both rise to the bottom line when turned on but go no further when started. I don't think it a battery problem as I have 12.9 volts with the engine not running and 14.5 with it running, Its got me stumped. It looks like I'm of to holden for the fix and will let you know the out come for future reference.
cheers Allan
Had a VY tonner & now a VZ Crewie going by the symptons battery is either on it's way out that or the ABS unit is cactus.
Had the car at Holden today and nothing coming up on the Tech2 scanner all it picked up was the Maf missing (mafless tune). Installed a new battery still the same issues. They suggested replacing the starter motor, because of the way its starting and checking the starter loom and the earth points under the bonnet. They have not come across this problem before as well and I did not want to leave it there as they seem to have no clue just like me and I would assume it could have been quite expensive by the time they finished. So I have parked the ute until the weekend and start with what has been suggested. I also disconnected the ABS and stated the car and still the same issues.
Today, I have replace the battery with fully charged optima red top battery and replaced the starter motor and still have the same problems nothing has changed with my problem. The only thing I can add as when my mechanic used their scan tool it can up with a do not start for the engine, some times it takes 4/6 tries before it starts and when it does the car seems normal to drive just no fuel , temp gauge (engineering mode says temp is -40? and all the zeros in faults but for the 17th one which holden states is not used and not even picked up with Tech2) no air con, shift mode or gear indicator (auto). I have checked the earth connections and could not find any fault they were tight and clean.
When it tries to start the starter motor seems to be jerky and no engaging properly and the dash lights flicker.
What should I try next as nothing is showing up with scan tools or even less with Holden's Tech2.
Dash lights flickering sounds like a voltage drop of some sort to me.
Have you checked what voltage is there when you're trying to crank it?
Did you happen to see what the cabling was like? It can get brittle and deteriorate from the heat over time which will increase its resistance making it harder to start. You can try running a jumper cable from the starter back to the battery and see if it starts.
Does the security lights go off when the key is in? May be a poor connection at the key or ignition barrel. Try turning the key 180 degrees if you put it in the same way every time or try a spare. Its also common for the connection at the back of the ignition ring to fail so may be worth checking there also.
But all that said, I'm pretty sure it should still crank if there's a security issue. Just easy things worth checking.
Reckon you may be right White. Quite possible one of the main leads are internally crystallized, that or a dicky "fusible link" or termination. seen this many times before.
I have viewed the starting in engineering mode and it drops to 10.9 volts while cranking, the cabling looks to be fine, there doesn't seem to be any security issues with the key but I will check it tomorrow and the ignition ring. Thanks for the reply.
Very difficult to assess your cabling by viewing it. Sure the insulation/terminations may look ok, but what about the conductors themselves?
10.9 is about right, you'd think the starter would be throwing out with that.
I'd check the cabling. Like I say, running a jumper lead from the positive terminal back to the battery (and the earth doesn't hurt either) is an easy way to test it. Or if you can't get it to reach, just put it up on stands and have another battery on the ground where it can reach.
Just re-read your other reply, if the gauges in the car and AC etc aren't working when it does get running, it may be a poor connection on the BCM or something else like that.
faulty TPS????
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