VF2 Rear Brembo upgrade

[Micks]

About to throw on some new rear Brembos for my VF2 the dust shields need cutting or removing for this upgrade, can anyone advise if the hub/shafts have to be removed to trim these or replace them? I know the Vf's have the electric park brake.

[Maccas]

Dont VF 2 Redlines come with rear brembos?

[jaykay]

Dont VF 2 Redlines come with rear brembos?

His is a VF2 SSV not Redline edition...

[motomk]

About to throw on some new rear Brembos for my VF2 the dust shields need cutting or removing for this upgrade, can anyone advise if the hub/shafts have to be removed to trim these or replace them? I know the Vf's have the electric park brake.

My car has these on it, I will try and take a picture with a wheel off.

[Smashfist]

About to throw on some new rear Brembos for my VF2 the dust shields need cutting or removing for this upgrade, can anyone advise if the hub/shafts have to be removed to trim these or replace them? I know the Vf's have the electric park brake.

To remove the backing plate the hub has to be removed from the vehicle and the bearing pressed apart to separate the whole shebang, which means you need to replace the bearing if removing the backing plate.

I chose option B) which was to trim the plates on-car. I just cut sections off around the circumference using a set of tin snips. Spent a bit of time making it look tidy-ish. You really only need to remove the lip and enlarge the cutout to fit the caliper on.

If you've bought the brakes from an american source, also check the setup for the crossover pipes. Most american models have the caliper mounted forward of the hub rather than rearward, meaning that if you mount them to keep the bleed nipples upwards you'll end up with the larger piston on the leading edge (the Brembos are supposed to run the smaller piston on the leading edge and the larger on the trailing so that you get an even bite across the pad and even pad wear). If this is the case you'll need to do what I did and remove the crossover/bleed nipples and swap the configuration around so you can still mount the calipers to the car with the large piston trailing and the bleed nipples upwards.

No need to worry about or interact with the handbrake, just make sure you brake-clean the inner drum part of the rear discs before putting the caliper on to remove the oil coating.

[Micks]

To remove the backing plate the hub has to be removed from the vehicle and the bearing pressed apart to separate the whole shebang, which means you need to replace the bearing if removing the backing plate.

I chose option B) which was to trim the plates on-car. I just cut sections off around the circumference using a set of tin snips. Spent a bit of time making it look tidy-ish. You really only need to remove the lip and enlarge the cutout to fit the caliper on.

If you've bought the brakes from an american source, also check the setup for the crossover pipes. Most american models have the caliper mounted forward of the hub rather than rearward, meaning that if you mount them to keep the bleed nipples upwards you'll end up with the larger piston on the leading edge (the Brembos are supposed to run the smaller piston on the leading edge and the larger on the trailing so that you get an even bite across the pad and even pad wear). If this is the case you'll need to do what I did and remove the crossover/bleed nipples and swap the configuration around so you can still mount the calipers to the car with the large piston trailing and the bleed nipples upwards.

No need to worry about or interact with the handbrake, just make sure you brake-clean the inner drum part of the rear discs before putting the caliper on to remove the oil coating.

Great info, thanks for the heads up with the calipers. Might just do it all insitu then. The fronts are easy as I just pulled the caliper & rotor off & unbolted shields & threw them away.

[Micks]

My car has these on it, I will try and take a picture with a wheel off.

That would be brilliant