Hi all, as above.
Car has always had a little trans oil "moisture" around the chassis rail where the breather slots into but after having a basic rebuild due to the guy wanting $3600.00 to do a full rebuild on a never raced 65Km trans its now leaking clean trans oil onto the ground when parking up.
Does anyone know why this may be happening?
I've already investigated this and the overall reply was the factory trans cooler was likely blocked so after spending hundreds on a cooler, hosing, fittings, bypass valve and countless hours designing and making brackets I am still having bloody leaks at the breather!!!!!
HELP.
No, not overfilled.
New cooler is lower than the factory cooler, don't see how that would matter though?
Lower than the breather, not the factory cooler. If it's higher it may be draining back out but mine has always been mounted fairly high and never had an issue.
How hot is it actually getting?
Did you remove the factory cooler when you fitted the aftermarket one? Sounds like a blockage somewhere. May even be the radiator that's blocked.
Not being rude but why would one fit an aftermarket cooler and leave the factory one inline?
Especially since the factory one was the suspect issue that I first mentioned?
I removed the breather hose that tee's off to the chassis rail - there is another hose that tee's off here and goes up the firewall behind the V of the engine and has a "cap" of some sort on it.
I attached a two meter hose to where the chassis rail hose was and blew into it.
It pressurized the trans!
Something isn't right here as the other hose up the firewall "should" let the pressure out!
I am unable to access the "cap" thing on the upper hose to see if it has a valve in it so I run the 2 meter hose into the engine bay and connected it to a plastic bottle next to the radiator.
This is higher then the original chassis rail hose but lower than the firewall hose.
Time will tell, at least I wont have ATF leaking out the chassis rail all over my garage floor.
Some people use both & argue that it gives better cooling going through both & it also warms the trans fluid up from cold.
I personally don't like the idea & only use a separate large aftermarket trans cooler,
bypassing the radiator cooler because I have seen cross contamination of coolant & trans fluid
quite a few times on Fords & I know first hand how costly it can be to repair.![]()
Last edited by whitels1ss; 22-10-2018 at 06:49 PM.
Agree unless your in a very cold climate a thermostat cooler bypass valve is pointless!
I had never heard of this before either but here's a thought, maybe you just learned something?
I was given this advice by an Australian mechanic on a forum, actually, no, I bloody well paid for the dam info since I had asked several so called specialist that had no idea and said the box had to come out and be stripped to check it!
You need the bypass valve in the circuit because the new cooler is external and gets cool air all the time, the valve helps the ATF to warm up quickly which is imperative for longevity and correct operation of the trans, with the factory cooler running in hot coolant not long after the engine starts a bypass valve is obviously not required.
Anyway, I have found the issue.
I just drove to the Pukekohe Supercar round from Wellington and after removing the transmission factory "lower" breather hose, connecting another hose from the "tee" piece along the right hand chassis rail and into a plastic drink bottle in the engine bay so I can keep an eye on it I am pleased to advise all that this has solved the issue.
The bottle is almost at the same height as where the factory hose was too.
When I first connected the long hose up I blew into it with my mouth and surprisingly it pressurised and blew straight back out.
The trans breather has two hoses, why still evades me, the one that goes up the firewall behind the V of the engine has a cap on it - it must be blocked.
How its blocked I have no idea, I don't believe its a one way valve but as it is near impossible to get to with the engine in the way I decided to do my temporary fix.
The hose I took off has a steel pipe attached to it which is factory crimped almost flat on the end where it slides into a gap in the chassis rail, it must be too much of a crimp and along with the cap on the other hose caused the pressure build and then the oil to follow.
So, if anyone has an ATF damp or wet Right Hand chassis rail check this out first.
Cheers.
Last edited by whitels1ss; 06-11-2018 at 11:34 AM.
Glad you finally got it sorted![]()
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)