Supercharger for VFSS

[whitels1ss]

Looks like the lowest boost available pulley on the Harrop FIFD 2300 will make around 9.33 psi as an average.

See graph lower right hand side.....


https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/syste...H_GUIDE%20.pdf

[whitels1ss]

Definitely do valve springs and probably pushrods too, plus I had my crank pinned while it was getting a cam (LS9 cam - complete waste of time and money). Heat is the biggest killer with superchargers so while you are at it definitely add at least thermal blankets - cheap mod while charger being fitted. See https://fiinterchillers.com/thermal-reduction-blanket/ (I have one fitted) and even https://fiinterchillers.com/blower-spacer-plates/ if you can afford it while the charger is being fitted.

My HTV1900 on LS3 makes 390rwkw @ 10 lb boost on APS' very tough dyno. Was 385rwkw before cam but actually lost torque........ I know of at least one other dyno it would run close to 440rwkw on.

Mine runs at about 20C above ambient at cruise which isn't too bad.

Gary, I reckon the new FIFD models are supposed to run pretty cool IAT's

They advertise that they have done heaps of R&D getting them pretty right.

[Micks]

Id be looking at the refrigerated interchillers Kirk does https://www.facebook.com/ForcedInductionInterchillers/

[whitels1ss]

Id be looking at the refrigerated interchillers Kirk does https://www.facebook.com/ForcedInductionInterchillers/

I honestly don't think you need to worry about it with the new Harrop Mick.

[Wonky]

I honestly don't think you need to worry about it with the new Harrop Mick.

It will obviously help but very expensive. IIRC around $3k and 5 or 6 hours to fit.

[whitels1ss]

Here is a picture of inside the Harrop FDFI charger,

you can see why they run cool IAT's with the large double pass intercoolers on top of each intake bank of ports.


FIFD Harrop Inside.jpg

[white lie]

Double pass?

The issue with the design is more that the gap between the intercooler and lid is quite small, creating a lot of unnecessary heat. While upwards discharge are the best (they isolate a lot of engine heat), there are gains to be had by spacing the lid out further if you can fit it under the bonnet.

One of the big downfalls of the Harrop kits was also their heat exchanger at the front. They don't work nearly as well as the PWR or Magnuson equivalent at getting the heat out.

An interchiller will see well below ambient air temps where a good W2A will generally be 20 degrees above as a minimum.

[whitels1ss]

They actually call it a "2 pass" & it does work well, plenty of dyno results from them all over the net to prove it.
(I actually have not seen any of the results with anyone using an interchiller but I am sure there might be some.)

I looked into the Magnusson when I was supercharging my LS1, I looked at other brands as well
but the main reason I went Harrop HTV2300 instead was that when I spoke to a few highly respected tuners
they all told me that the intake system & the intercooler on the latest HTV black series was way more efficient than the Magnusson.

When the car was tuned the dyno results were excellent & I was very happy with their advice.

Anyway, let's not continue talking off topic about older model superchargers, for older model cars, these new FDFI's work great.


Sure, an interchiller would get the IAT's even cooler
but
I think there would be a miniscule percentage of guys fitting interchillers these days with the new FDFI Harrops
& I personally don't think the OP will need to spend so much money fitting one to get an excellent result with his car.

[white lie]

Most generally see around 40rwhp (give or take) from fitting a chiller and tuning to suit but the biggest advantage is being able to consistently make the power over and over again with no heat soak or making the same power as a cold night on a 40 degree day.

I'm not affiliated with FII in any way, shape or form but they do work.

[whitels1ss]

Most generally see around 40rwhp (give or take) from fitting a chiller and tuning to suit but the biggest advantage is being able to consistently make the power over and over again with no heat soak or making the same power as a cold night on a 40 degree day.

I'm not affiliated with FII in any way, shape or form but they do work.

Yeah, fair enough,
I have not really looked into them
but
if what wonky says is correct that they cost around $3k (plus fitting & tuning)
& what you say is correct that they only really give 40rwhp & with no heat soak making the same power on a 40 degree day as a cold night,
I hardly think that it would be worth the money.

We have a few 40 degree plus days coming up,
I will keep an eye out on my IAT's if I get the chance to take it for a run
but the last time I checked was on a 41 degree day & IIRC they were sitting at around 53 degrees.

[white lie]

They're 3.5k if you get the works. They start at $2300 plus fitting.

But even fitting spacer plates, a thermal blanket and increasing the capacity of the cooling system will yield very good results.

[whitels1ss]

They're 3.5k if you get the works. They start at $2300 plus fitting.

But even fitting spacer plates, a thermal blanket and increasing the capacity of the cooling system will yield very good results.

Yeah white lie, (sorry I don't know your actual name?)
I know the spacer plates & thermal blankets work well also to keep the intake temps down.

Someone should start another separate thread about IAT's with forced induction
to keep it all together & easy to find. I think it would be quite interesting & worthwhile.


I know some people do have massive problems with superchargers with very high IAT's one of my very good mates has a Whipple 2900
on a blown stroker & he suffered very high numbers even on a cool day until he fitted a water meth kit & spacers.


You got an interchiller on your Magnusson?

[white lie]

Yes, a seperate thread could definitely have some good info in there. Water meth (or even straight water) can also be effective. They all have pros and cons.

No, I don't have a chiller. It's kind of on the list of "to do's" but I don't drive the car much at all anymore. I think it would have been lucky to have done 500kms last year. At the same time, I'm pretty close to putting it back to stock as they're getting hard to find. I'd probably get an LSA based HSV and play with that.

[whitels1ss]

Yes, a seperate thread could definitely have some good info in there. Water meth (or even straight water) can also be effective. They all have pros and cons.

My mate is very happy with his 50/50 mix water meth kit which is set up progressively & only starts to trigger at around 7psi & flows more as the boost increases.

He goes for ages on a tank of water meth & it's got plenty of safeguards built in but I know problems are possible with anything.

[whitels1ss]

At the same time,
I'm pretty close to putting it back to stock as they're getting hard to find.
I'd probably get an LSA based HSV and play with that.

On the other side they are only going to get harder to find & hopefully (for you) it will be worth more money
so you may as well hang on to it & enjoy.