VY SS Wagon - Suspension Advice

[Red CV8 R]

Reminds me, I need to chase Shockworks as I haven't heard back from my last few messages. Hopefully, the full VT-VZ kits are off the boat. I'm dead keen to get these in my car!

[FrangaFry]

Update ..........

So injectors are done ............ but ya gota hate a sentence that starts with "I've found some other issues ..........." Doh!.

So, I've had mice ............ that's never good (she sat for a while during lock down and the little buggers have been having a little nibble here and a little nibble there ........... SIGH), the rear belts on the gilmer drive are also rooted (so that at least explains the noise I was chasing under the bonnet) and I've developed a couple of oils leaks (rear main at that and that does piss me off.....). So, back in again on Sat to get the rear belts replaced and a re alignment to stop it happening again. Not all lost though, as I got an offer I couldn't refuse so going to replace the rear of the exhaust with a 3" stainless system while I'm at it ............ yeah, that was a 'fark it' moment and not planned but meh, right place right time.

Went and had a chat with Chris @ Shockworks today as well and booked in for the 12th to sort the front suspension out; He whacked it up on the hoist and gave it a good going over .......... gunna have to wait for the rears to be done due to some logistics issues (I'm ok with that as the Minister is starting to grumble ............).

Once the fronts are done and the belts/zorst finished, the next step is to get some time with Luis to fresh'n up the tune ............ hopefully not a full tune needed and just a tickle can get it all right again (funds are getting low now ............ Shhhhhhhhhhh).

I've still got a swag of door/window seals and some other bits and bobs for the outside; But, that will have to wait for a bit now as the wife is sure to draw the line soon (I have had a good run so far though).

[whitels1ss]

Did you ever do the HTV LS Engine Re-Wrap Idler Pulley upgrade kit on the front?

https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/produ...p-idler-pulley


Gives heaps better belt wrap than the older systems.

[FrangaFry]

Did you ever do the HTV LS Engine Re-Wrap Idler Pulley upgrade kit on the front?

https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/produ...p-idler-pulley


Gives heaps better belt wrap than the older systems.

G'day mate, yep did the re wrap and also running 8pk (that was done beginning of 2021 when she had the last tune @ APS - also upgraded the intercooler pump with a higher flowing BMW pump on the blower and added an upgraded intercooler. Did a few other bits and bobs at the same time ) . Still get lots of belt squeal/slip during shift points though, especially dropping from 3rd into 4th ..........

The CATs, O2 sensors, injectors and coil packs must have been screwed when she was re tuned back then, as the car is running like an absolute dog now that they are changed/repaired; Cold start sucks as she's over fueling when cold (so remote start no longer works - and that p1sses me off big time) and idle or cruise is as jerky as crap now; AFR's do seem a little more stable now since the injectors were cleaned/sorted, although I am not giving her a hard time... that can wait until the tune.

Spoke with Frank yesterday about getting some Luis love and have to wait 5 weeks before I can get in ............. SAD FACE, as he is going on leave today (a man's gota have a holiday though, so I get it) .......... bit bummed though, as I really wanted to get it sorted sooner rather than later .... at least by the time he gets to look at it, she will sound better and handle better and hopefully be a hell of a lot more responsive to his loving touch.

[whitels1ss]

Yeah, mine has a little bit of squeal on changes, spoke to Harrop about it & they explained
that the rotors are quite heavy that carry a lot of inertia and slight slip on hard shifts dampens
the shock to everything in the blower & pulleys, they said it is designed to work like that.

The belts are consumables & have to be changed from time to time which reminds me that I have to fit a new belt on mine
next summer before I get it out again as it was slipping a bit the last time I drove it which was robbing some power up high.

[FrangaFry]

Yeah, mine has a little bit of squeal on changes, spoke to Harrop about it & they explained
that the rotors are quite heavy that carry a lot of inertia and slight slip on hard shifts dampens
the shock to everything in the blower & pulleys, they said it is designed to work like that.

The belts are consumables & have to be changed from time to time which reminds me that I have to fit a new belt on mine
next summer before I get it out again as it was slipping a bit the last time I drove it which was robbing some power up high.

I replaced belts front and back less than 5,000 km ago ........... have had to replace the pullies twice as well since going 8pk (front and back.) The bearings wear thru the aluminum really quickly it seems (I actually regret going 8pk, wasn't worth the extra HP I gained) ............ has cost me $$$.

Such is life in the big city ............ I have to keep reminding myself that if you play, you pay ........... moving on

[FrangaFry]

I replaced belts front and back less than 5,000 km ago ........... have had to replace the pullies twice as well since going 8pk (front and back.) The bearings wear thru the aluminum really quickly it seems (I actually regret going 8pk, wasn't worth the extra HP I gained) ............ has cost me $$$.

Such is life in the big city ............ I have to keep reminding myself that if you play, you pay ........... moving on

So, got my wags back after all the exhaust work done/replaced and the rear Gilmer belts changed/realigned ........... and OH MY LORD .......... I'm still getting to terms with all the extra noise it makes.

The new 3" system is just insane .......... sounds soooo much louder/deeper/growlier ........... I'm actually in shock as to how much different it is (good shock) .... with the rear belts replaced and re aligned correctly, I am also in shock as to how much louder the Gilmer is (and no more bloody noises from pullies or squeal of the belt when dropping from 3rd into 4th) ..............

So, the question I'm gunna pose is, given all these changes (fuel - injectors, spark - coils/plugs/leads, better flowing Cats and 3" stainless exhaust plus new belts and alignment etc etc) the wags is now running like a dog on startup and running quite rich. Clearly the last tune (12 months ago) was based on failing Cats, failing coils, blocked/leaking injectors and a restricted zorst. Now that all this is actually back up to spec I need to get a re tune.

I can't get into APS for another 5 weeks, so not sure I should wait (given it's my daily) or go to another tuner.

I know Luis does a great job, but I have been recommend another tuner who is local (well closer than Frankston anyway) and who could get me in in the short term (alternative tuner comes highly rated from Lindsay - who by the way has blown me out with his knowledge and skills ............ he reminds me a great deal of the legendary IJ .....) If you need a Zorst go see Unique Exhaust in Bayswater and ask Lindsay - he has shown my wags some real love and been spot on with everything he promised and delivered).

So, wait for Luis or go get it sorted now and move on?

[amckiwi]

I would wait
ASP should not charge a full tune price whereas other guy may want to start again
I am wondering if your optional guy is the same one I would recommend
He is on Carum Downs

[whitels1ss]

So, wait for Luis or go get it sorted now and move on?

Wait & you know that you will have it done right.

[FrangaFry]

Ok booked in for some Luis love on the 15th of Aug and it's killing me having to wait ............ but, I know it's the best coarse of action. God damn it sounds good with the new exhaust though .......... I'm getting used to how much louder it is now and I am enjoying it rather than freaking out and waiting to be pulled over by Mr plod ...... (it is loud... LOL)

Had a bit of a road bump with the suspension too (fronts were meant to be done last Monday) ......... have to wait there too ....... they ran out of stock (nooooooooooooo), so fronts installation is delayed for a while; Good news, I suppose .....is that Chris has offered to do fronts and rears as soon as the stock is back (good for me, maybe not so much for the minister).

On a lighter note, I had one of those Hmmmmmm moments today......

For a few years now, I have seen this VU commy sedan cooking around my area with number plates LSX7.4 and a big side badge with the same. It sounds wicked and I have always been keen to take a better look. I got the chance today and bailed the owner up for a chat. Bloke my age who was quite keen to have a chat.

What he told me made me feel quite good about myself and the path I have taken with my wags over the years.

His commy was nice and had a big F'off 454 LSX donk in it but that was about it unfortunately ......... mild steel exhaust, stock T-56, stock diff with higher ratio, stock brakes and stock suspension. These LSX jobbies are 600'odd HP out of the box but he tells me it was tuned @ 550 Flywheel HP ............ Damn, what a waste of a beautiful engine.

So I walked away feeling quite good about about the money I have spent to date and the results I have achieved.

Really nice bloke and I don't mean to rag on him but damn, that car could be sooooo much more. He was clearly happy with it though and chuffed I pulled him up for a chat about his ride.

[whitels1ss]

Those little Harrop blowers give out a great bang for the buck!

[FrangaFry]

Howdy folks, update on my beloved wags.

Finally got me some Luis love last week so I am happy the tune is good. She drives a treat and I have confidence in not doing damage if the angry foot goes down.

Problem I am having is with the start (cold or warm). She used to fire on first crank but I am now having to crank her waaaaaay too much to get the old girl rumbling (and it's pissing me off - not to mention my remote start no longer works as a result and that also pisses me off). I had Frank, Jack and Luis take a look and they could not fault fuel/pump/pressure/filter or the tune as being the culprit (injectors are also just cleaned). Given I have also just sorted any spark issues (coils, plugs, leads) I'm sort of scratching my head on where to start looking.

I've done some poking around and a few threads here and there say replace the Ignition/Starter Relays and possibly Fuel Pump relay. So my question this time is what brand/type/part number relays would I need - are they a generic 4 pin Jobbie?

On a happy note, Chris from Shockworks called the other day and I am booked in for a full coilover treatment on the 30th of Aug (tad excited about this ....) ... almost there now. Bought another Michelin PS4 255/40/18 for the rear the other day too, so that completes a set of new shoes as well for the o'l girl ......... i'll try to get these on before I go see Chris.

Any help on the relays would, as always, be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Franga

[whitels1ss]

I am not an expert but I doubt that it would be a faulty relay causing this problem because
as far as I know, relays that are faulty generally either do not work at all or the contacts inside them
stick closed & then the regulator sticks on.

This is quite common with the headlight relays on Commodores when the relay gets warm after driving with the lights on for a while
so the headlights do not switch off when the relays fail.
I had this problem with my headlight relay so the lights stuck on even after taking my keys out.
I swapped the headlight relay with the horn relay because you do not use the horn as much as the headlights & so it
doesn't seem to get hot & burn out.

I wonder if you are losing fuel pressure when the engine is switched off? Perhaps the fuel rail is dropping pressure & leaking back fuel to the tank
so you loose fuel pressure with engine off.
My SS does that slightly so when I start it for the first time I switch the ignition on
then wait for a couple of seconds & listen to hear the fuel pump, then I turn the key off & turn it back on again to hear fuel pressure again
a couple of times before I crank the starter then it starts first pop.
(My car only gets started around once every 3 or 4 weeks so it drops pressure over a long time so I do this to prime the fuel pressure.)
Perhaps you might like trying the same & seeing if it helps, if it does you might just have a leaking back of pressure
if it is running fine the rest of the time?

(When I do not do this mine is a bit of a pig to start first time after a month but after that it is absolutely fine.)

All the best with it.

[FrangaFry]

Thanks mate,

Frank and Luis connected a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel system and left it over night with no drop to fuel pressure found.

I tried leaving the ignition on for a few secs this morning when cold starting and it made no difference.

Is the horn relay interchangeable with the starter/ignition relay - I could do a quick test?

Cheers,

[whitels1ss]

Sounds like they suspected the same thing as me to have already checked sustained fuel pressure.

I think most of the relays look the same & should be interchangeable,
from memory they have part numbers or codes written on the top
so if they look the same I can't see harm in swapping one around.