Brake Upgrade For Temora 1000m

[Wonky]

I'm not sure as couldn't go last year but I know Daz with his WM have big problems pulling up in time. To avoid a repeat of the problems he's gone for a full brake upgrade (Brembos) which I can neither afford or justify for my normal driving. In 60,000+km I've never had to do a real emergency stop. Anthony who will be driving mine is very experienced so will obviously know correct braking techniques.

[macca_779]

I run 250.7 kph down the 1/4 at wsid and stock vx brakes pull me up ok!!! how much runoff is there after finish to stop ?? just don't bury your foot!!!! apply /release technique !!!

450m runoff. Its a work out for stock brakes, personally I didn't have a problem pulling off at the 150m first exit with my brakes @~230km/h trap.. But they are hardly stock. For the guys carrying a genuine 250km/h+ you will want some good stoppers.

[ittwgn]

just asked wsid on facebook what the braking distance is before sand pit will be interesting to see what it is !!??? also as someone said earlier the snowy might have better traction but the hp you will lose in the mountains da or shit air so far above sea level is considerable!! why cant we have a go at mascot haha !! cheers

[ittwgn]

got a reply from Sydney dragway !!! its 600 metres from finish to sand pit which surprised me !!!covering ground pretty quick I suppose !!!so if temora only has 450m it would be a good workout for stockers !!!! cheers

[duke5700]

8 & 9th of November I think, longer run off, better runway. Run over 2 days etc etc, if you are a facebook person it has its own page.

Hopefully all of my BS Teething issues are now solved and I can get a Tune into it <fingers crossed>

When is the SM1000 on?

[Wonky]

Yeah GSL are great to deal with. As for slotted rotors go either DBA or RDA. RDA are generally cheaper than DBA but still highly regarded.

So far I've found a set of RDA7905S slotted rotors for rear and RDA7904D dimpled and slotted for the rear, total cost under $300 for all 4 (brand new of course) so think that's the way I'll go (that place didn't have the RDA7904S slotted rotors for the front). Would I be correct in assuming that dimpled and slotted should be better than just slotted? Any drawbacks to dimpled?

I was going to go DBA4000 T3 for $198 a pair from GSL until I realised that price was each!

GSL also recommended some Remsa pads which they've been supplying to Porsche and Ferrari owners for ages as an alternative to the HPX, but said they made a bit more dust. A little more expensive but not much ($30 per set of 4 as they've now come down in price) - has anybody used these? Also heard from a source I trust that the HPX can get noisy once they're more than 25% worn - has anybody experienced this? I'd prefer to put up with a little bit of dust (never have dust problems with my OEM setup) than noisy brakes.

[IJ.]

8 & 9th of November I think, longer run off, better runway. Run over 2 days etc etc, if you are a facebook person it has its own page.

Thanks Luke!

So far I've found a set of RDA7905S slotted rotors for rear and RDA7904D dimpled and slotted for the rear, total cost under $300 for all 4 (brand new of course) so think that's the way I'll go (that place didn't have the RDA7904S slotted rotors for the front). Would I be correct in assuming that dimpled and slotted should be better than just slotted? Any drawbacks to dimpled?

I was going to go DBA4000 T3 for $198 a pair from GSL until I realised that price was each!

GSL also recommended some Remsa pads which they've been supplying to Porsche and Ferrari owners for ages as an alternative to the HPX, but said they made a bit more dust. A little more expensive but not much ($30 per set of 4 as they've now come down in price) - has anybody used these? Also heard from a source I trust that the HPX can get noisy once they're more than 25% worn - has anybody experienced this? I'd prefer to put up with a little bit of dust (never have dust problems with my OEM setup) than noisy brakes.

Had a few close mates that have used RDA's and Bag on their quality/longevity Gary, I'm having a really good run with the EBC Yellow's in the Tonner and won't hesitate to use them again.

[Wonky]

Had a few close mates that have used RDA's and Bag on their quality/longevity Gary, I'm having a really good run with the EBC Yellow's in the Tonner and won't hesitate to use them again.

Unfortunately to play safe for the guy driving it I want to put new rotors on all round I've decided and OEM rotors are around $560 for 4 list price! Even at my ex employee price they're still significantly more than I can get the RDA slotted rears and slotted and dimpled fronts for (now under $250 for all 4 I've found) so even if their longevity is questionable as long as they work better than stock I'm happy. With my grandpa driving and pads like Remsa which are meant to be easy on rotors they should last me the life of the car (till I can hopefully get a VF in a year or two). I'll also research the EBC Yellows thanks.

[IJ.]

Unfortunately to play safe for the guy driving it I want to put new rotors on all round I've decided and OEM rotors are around $560 for 4 list price! Even at my ex employee price they're still significantly more than I can get the RDA slotted rears and slotted and dimpled fronts for (now under $250 for all 4 I've found) so even if their longevity is questionable as long as they work better than stock I'm happy. With my grandpa driving and pads like Remsa which are meant to be easy on rotors they should last me the life of the car (till I can hopefully get a VF in a year or two). I'll also research the EBC Yellows thanks.

You could look into getting the RDA's Cryo Treated, I've been doing this for about 10 years now with all of my fast cars after reading a report done by US Post on their delivery trucks and the increase in mileage they got!

[Wonky]

What's the cost of Cryo treatment and who can do it? I've also found a some front DBA T2 for under $220 pr so will probably go for them rather than the RDAs given the experience of your mates. The T2s should do as well for me for my one off use as the T3s two brake places recommended and they're significantly cheaper so I can afford them!

[IJ.]

What's the cost of Cryo treatment and who can do it? I've also found a some front DBA T2 for under $220 pr so will probably go for them rather than the RDAs given the experience of your mates. The T2s should do as well for me for my one off use as the T3s two brake places recommended and they're significantly cheaper so I can afford them!

I'll PM ya some info.

[Tre-Cool]

450m runoff. Its a work out for stock brakes, personally I didn't have a problem pulling off at the 150m first exit with my brakes @~230km/h trap.. But they are hardly stock. For the guys carrying a genuine 250km/h+ you will want some good stoppers.

indeed. pulling my black sled up from 270kph was interesting at the event we ran here in the west.

[SASLS1]

No point replacing rotors if there still within minimum thickness specifications, just take the rotors off, and take them to a brake shop and get them machined, doesn't cost much at all. At 60000kms should be fine.

I've used EBC Greenstuff pads in my VXSS and also in a GH Sigma (pads cost more than the Sigma hahaha), worked great above stock OEM pads. Did both Phillip Island and Winton in the VXSS. Just need a little warming up then they bite really well. Very low dust too!!!...

Steer clear of Bendix Ultimate pads, my brother had them fitted on one of his cars, and the amount of dust generated onto his front wheels was ridiculous...

I had a mate that put slotted rotors on his commodore, and all they did was give a slight vibration every time he put his foot on the brake, really annoying, no improvement at all. All these grooved and dimpled rotors are just sale pitch.

I've done the Mangalore Airport 1000M standing start speed runs back a few years ago with the HSV/FPV combined event, in my stock VXSS apart from a full exhaust system and MCAI. Topped out at about 210km/h - 215km/h over the 1000m. No way your'll get near 250km/h, there was a ex racecar XYGT falcon at Mangalore and he was the fastest of the day at around 240km.

Your best and cheapest option is to get your rotors machined, and install some good aftermarket pads and bed the brakes in for a few hundred km, done.

[IJ.]

indeed. pulling my black sled up from 270kph was interesting at the event we ran here in the west.

What power was the car making at that time Dave?

[andrewslr]

From experience doing the 1000metre speed runs at Mangalore Airport with the HSV owners club, standard brakes will stack up well with an appropriate fluid flush with DOT 5.1 fluid. At the time I did the run in a (then) new VX Berlina LS1 sedan. Fastest speed reached was 201kmh in the morning. As the weather got warmer, could not do better than 196 and most runs thereafter at 191kmh. Your issue will be hooking up.

I would stay away from replacing your rotors Wonky with OEM as they will likely warp over the course of the day. If they have plenty of meat, leave the rotors you have as you'll likely bin them afterwards. Upgrade your fluid and pads. Also as suggested, do not jump on the brakes over the line. Modulate the pedal, and you should be fine for 6 runs.

My 2cents worth....Andrew